Question PC is boot-looping ?

[Max_D]

After several years, my PC started up and wouldn't post, no screen, no keyboard lights, just kept restarting after 10 seconds.

First instinct was BIOS reset on the Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H mobo. I tried every combination you could find over 2 days (holding pwr 10 secs, holding pwr + reset 10 secs, shorting pins 1 & 6) - nothing would allow it to post.

Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: MSI GTX 980
PSU: Corsair 850W

Also tried swapping out CMOS battery, shorting CMOS reset pins and all combinations.

Tried removing all RAM, swapping out RAM, only having one stick in diff slots etc - no post.

Tried removing ALL peripherals from mobo (incl GPU, case USB and case fans all HDD's and drives) - still no post.

Tried removing the mobo from the case (leaving only basic power connections and even disconnecting CPU fan) - still no post.

Tried re-seating CPU and checking pins etc.

I checked the PSU (doing the green + black wire short, and single fan - all works fine).

I got it going - just once! - after plugging all back together, then removing one of the case fan power ports. I thought - great! That must have been it - just a faulty case fan that was shorting.

But next day, it again would not post

Given the age of the PC, is it worth buying a replacement 2nd hand equivalent mobo (Ebay) to try? I'm kind of out of ideas. I'm really not sure why it decided to post once I removed a single case fan from a single power port on the mobo (three case fan ports on mobo).

Why removing a single fan as a last resort magically worked once, but not again, and even with ALL peripherals removed, it won't post.

There's no LED status on the board, and annoyingly no PC speaker. Not sure if ordering a speaker would help the diagnosis. But I suspect it has to be either:

1. Motherboard
2. CPU
3. PSU

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

If you can, get a hold of a CH341A BIOS programmer and try to reflash teh BIOS with the latest BIOS found off your motherboard's support site;
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z97-D3H-rev-10/support#support-dl-driver
please take note of your motherboard's PCB revision number(located at the bottom left of your motherboard) before you source the BIOS from the support site.

 

[Max_D]

**Connected a passive buzzer to the speaker terminals.

It's a continuous run of 'short' beeps before it restarts.

I suspect that indicates a POWER issue?

Not sure if that means the PSU or the PSU connectors on mobo / CPU. I have removed and checked them both several times.

 

[beyondlogic]

**Connected a passive buzzer to the speaker terminals.

It's a continuous run of 'short' beeps before it restarts.

I suspect that indicates a POWER issue?

Not sure if that means the PSU or the PSU connectors on mobo / CPU. I have removed and checked them both several times.

remove gpu plug only into onboard graphics.

 

[Max_D]

remove gpu plug only into onboard graphics.

I did try removing the GPU- still no post.

Does it need a monitor signal from the VGA (on-board video) to post? I can see from the constant beeping and the mobo restarting after 10 seconds that something is not right, but I can find an old VGA connector in case it changes the bahaviour.

 

[beyondlogic]

I did try removing the GPU- still no post.

Does it need a monitor signal from the VGA (on-board video) to post? I can see from the constant beeping and the mobo restarting after 10 seconds that something is not right, but I can find an old VGA connector in case it changes the bahaviour.

It sounds like either a short or that the power supply is failing the pin test isn't very accurate your better with a PSU tester. You can try VGA it could also be bad ram you may want to try testing with 1 stick in slot 2 if it fails to post try the others in only slot 2

Look for bulging caps on the board as well incase the board has a bad cap.

 

[Max_D]

It sounds like either a short or that the power supply is failing the pin test isn't very accurate your better with a PSU tester. You can try VGA it could also be bad ram you may want to try testing with 1 stick in slot 2 if it fails to post try the others in only slot 2

Look for bulging caps on the board as well incase the board has a bad cap.

I really hope it is just the power supply. That would make an easy solution (and save an OS rebuild with a new board). Also I can still use my 32GB of DDR3 RAM (too old for newer boards).

I thought I had already tried every RAM combination. Even with no RAM in the boards it still continuously beeps.

I wouldn't mind so much buying new board and CPU / RAM, but the complete OS rebuild is a royal PIA for settings and configuration saved in the OS I can no longer access. I wonder what happens if you try to boot your existing OS with new hardware - just a boot failure I'm guessing.

 

[beyondlogic]

I really hope it is just the power supply. That would make an easy solution (and save an OS rebuild with a new board). Also I can still use my 32GB of DDR3 RAM (too old for newer boards).

I thought I had already tried every RAM combination. Even with no RAM in the boards it still continuously beeps.

I wouldn't mind so much buying new board and CPU / RAM, but the complete OS rebuild is a royal PIA for settings and configuration saved in the OS I can no longer access. I wonder what happens if you try to boot your existing OS with new hardware - just a boot failure I'm guessing.

depends if its a retail copy you can tie it to the os
if its a one key youll need a whole new os.

you need at least 1 stick of ram in the board for it to post it wont post without ram.

did you replace the battery in the board 2032 is the type it matters.

what is exact model of the corsair

every light should come on apart from -5v as thats not in modern psus.
psu tester

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zerone-24-...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

 

[beyondlogic]

I really hope it is just the power supply. That would make an easy solution (and save an OS rebuild with a new board). Also I can still use my 32GB of DDR3 RAM (too old for newer boards).

I thought I had already tried every RAM combination. Even with no RAM in the boards it still continuously beeps.

I wouldn't mind so much buying new board and CPU / RAM, but the complete OS rebuild is a royal PIA for settings and configuration saved in the OS I can no longer access. I wonder what happens if you try to boot your existing OS with new hardware - just a boot failure I'm guessing.

example windows 10 and 11 retail copy is tied to email so it becomes a digital transferable licence.

also ive booted into windows os but you may have driver issues which i would suggest once in you just to a complete factory reset. ( if you want to retain documents etc. put the hd in a usb drive and transfer them over to another drive.

also whats your budget for a newer build ?

 

[Max_D]

depends if its a retail copy you can tie it to the os
if its a one key youll need a whole new os.

you need at least 1 stick of ram in the board for it to post it wont post without ram.

did you replace the battery in the board 2032 is the type it matters.

what is exact model of the corsair

every light should come on apart from -5v as thats not in modern psus.
psu tester

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zerone-24-pin-Supply-Tester-FLOPPY/dp/B07FNBSVB6/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.70b6b787-854a-49f8-996a-ed25b08dcd4f:amzn1.sym.70b6b787-854a-49f8-996a-ed25b08dcd4f&crid=3U2PAE3ETB5LC&cv_ct_cx=psu+tester&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WpBap877PGtGQ7ZL4Cprb69OIM19ayF_iflkP_Zk_A6aatwAcA3IDx-ImUSPQzyZC5CugLisEOAdjViNac7F_A.hfVgtZtZ3nJrnUjDi6oywSMTwx14ajVK60VvB6x7-as&dib_tag=se&keywords=psu+tester&pd_rd_i=B07FNBSVB6&pd_rd_r=aee09f32-2161-44ce-8cae-ad1da19f17f6&pd_rd_w=YREot&pd_rd_wg=1BKCV&pf_rd_p=70b6b787-854a-49f8-996a-ed25b08dcd4f&pf_rd_r=APE47JBCKV1Z7N3GXSS6&qid=1715289939&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sprefix=psu+tester,aps,129&sr=1-2-ad3222ed-9545-4dc8-8dd8-6b2cb5278509-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

I'm hoping the Windows OS key is linked to my MS account (i.e. just sign in and it should authenticate...that's the hope anyway). I've bought and built a few PC's over the years so I've lost track. Sometimes I buy a PC 2nd hand and it comes with the OS installed, other times I've ordered custom built gaming PC and a few laptops with OS included so not really sure. I understand it's different in each case (OEM / Licence / Key etc).

I replaced the 2032 battery, to no avail. Also measured the existing battery and voltage was fine.

The Corsair PSU (that I'm hoping is the fault!) is Model: CMPSU-850HX. I got it in a 2nd hand PC I purchased back in 2016 (so likely ~10 yo). It's only semi-modular, so the fixed cables incl the 24pin ATX / 8pin CPU and 2 x PCI/e for the GPU. The rest are modular for Sata / Molex. So not truly FULL modular.

I've just hit the ORDER button on a replacement PSU:

MSI 750W MAG A750GL​

It's $124 and I'll pick it up in the next few hours. It is at least FULL modular.

If it doesn't resolve the problem, I'll have to investigate a cheap AMD Ryzen 5 CPU and MOBO (and RAM as my DDR3 won't work). See if I can find a combo. Then will be interested to see if my existing OS can actually boot with the new hardware (expect at least driver download req'd but hopefully I can rescue some settings and config!). At a guess I would say those alone would prob be ~$500.

My budget to 'fix' the project PC was ~ $500 so with the PSU (and a $20 replacement CPU fan as the plastic lugs on the existing Deep Cool are now all broken as a result of my fiddling trying to get the mobo to post), I've already used $150 of that budget.

At least the CPU replacement fan will buy me some sanity...it actually has SCREWS and a backplate! Repeatedly trying to get those ridiculous plastic lugs that snap through the holes was literally driving me bonkers.....

 

[beyondlogic]

I'm hoping the Windows OS key is linked to my MS account (i.e. just sign in and it should authenticate...that's the hope anyway). I've bought and built a few PC's over the years so I've lost track. Sometimes I buy a PC 2nd hand and it comes with the OS installed, other times I've ordered custom built gaming PC and a few laptops with OS included so not really sure. I understand it's different in each case (OEM / Licence / Key etc).

I replaced the 2032 battery, to no avail. Also measured the existing battery and voltage was fine.

The Corsair PSU (that I'm hoping is the fault!) is Model: CMPSU-850HX. I got it in a 2nd hand PC I purchased back in 2016 (so likely ~10 yo). It's only semi-modular, so the fixed cables incl the 24pin ATX / 8pin CPU and 2 x PCI/e for the GPU. The rest are modular for Sata / Molex. So not truly FULL modular.

I've just hit the ORDER button on a replacement PSU:

MSI 750W MAG A750GL​

It's $124 and I'll pick it up in the next few hours. It is at least FULL modular.

If it doesn't resolve the problem, I'll have to investigate a cheap AMD Ryzen 5 CPU and MOBO (and RAM as my DDR3 won't work). See if I can find a combo. Then will be interested to see if my existing OS can actually boot with the new hardware (expect at least driver download req'd but hopefully I can rescue some settings and config!). At a guess I would say those alone would prob be ~$500.

My budget to 'fix' the project PC was ~ $500 so with the PSU (and a $20 replacement CPU fan as the plastic lugs on the existing Deep Cool are now all broken as a result of my fiddling trying to get the mobo to post), I've already used $150 of that budget.

At least the CPU replacement fan will buy me some sanity...it actually has SCREWS and a backplate! Repeatedly trying to get those ridiculous plastic lugs that snap through the holes was literally driving me bonkers.....

are you using it for gaming or media ? etc ?

 

[Max_D]

are you using it for gaming or media ? etc ?

Mainly media and projects (like Arduino board projects). I bought a new $4K custom built gaming rig last year to satisfy my gaming requirements.

**PSU is ready for p/up now. I'll let you know in <1hr if the new PSU solves the mobo post problem. Wish me luck

 

[beyondlogic]

Mainly media and projects (like Arduino board projects). I bought a new $4K custom built gaming rig last year to satisfy my gaming requirements.

**PSU is ready for p/up now. I'll let you know in <1hr if the new PSU solves the mobo post problem. Wish me luck

good luck i can probly squeeze that budget around that psu

general idea of a pc under 500 usd with onboard graphics you can always try the gpu that you have in this rig.
no psu in this build since you bought a new one already.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dZQfBL

for general media youtube etc this should be fine if you need more gpu power a 3060 12gb would be fine i recon for most everyday.

the b550 opens up loads of options to keep it going for years.
cooler was for long life and because this board is cheap it has no vrms so you want a cooler blowing down towards the board.

 

[Max_D]

New PSU purchased - still no post

Pity I also bought a new CPU fan as I won't be needing that now either.

I'll ask the store about returns policies. Then ask them about an exchange for a relatively cheap mobo / CPU / RAM pack under $500.

I'm in AU so pricing will be different to USD. I'll check your part list though - really appreciate that

 

[beyondlogic]

New PSU purchased - still no post

Pity I also bought a new CPU fan as I won't be needing that now either.

I'll ask the store about returns policies. Then ask them about an exchange for a relatively cheap mobo / CPU / RAM pack under $500.

I'm in AU so pricing will be different to USD. I'll check your part list though - really appreciate that

https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/q3QBW4

cpu/motherboard/ram all in au

 

[Max_D]

I've gone out and bought a similar spec from the same store I picked up the PSU from earlier this morning.

Only I shot myself in the foot by jumping to the prominent suspect - the PSU. I purchased a new MSI 750w modular PSU, got it home only to find the board doing the same bootloop.... boo

And of course Umart will not allow a 'change of mind' exchange or store credit as the seal has been broken. So at least I have a spare PSU now...!

I followed close to your advice and got the Ryzen 5 5600 / MSI B550M PRO mobo / 32Gig of Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM.

Took an hour or so disassembling and removing the old kit, and installing the new. But the best bit is - IT WORKS!

Even better, I can boot into my existing OS and backup all my config data.

I splurged on a NVMe M.2 1TB drive (as why wouldn't you for $99 if the mobo supports it!). Once I'm confident I have everything I need, I'll probably load Win 11 onto the new NVMe drive and see how much faster it is than my 10yo Sata 128GB....

Cheers for your help and advice @beyondlogic 🤓

 

[beyondlogic]

I've gone out and bought a similar spec from the same store I picked up the PSU from earlier this morning.

Only I shot myself in the foot by jumping to the prominent suspect - the PSU. I purchased a new MSI 750w modular PSU, got it home only to find the board doing the same bootloop.... boo

And of course Umart will not allow a 'change of mind' exchange or store credit as the seal has been broken. So at least I have a spare PSU now...!

I followed close to your advice and got the Ryzen 5 5600 / MSI B550M PRO mobo / 32Gig of Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM.

Took an hour or so disassembling and removing the old kit, and installing the new. But the best bit is - IT WORKS!

Even better, I can boot into my existing OS and backup all my config data.

I splurged on a NVMe M.2 1TB drive (as why wouldn't you for $99 if the mobo supports it!). Once I'm confident I have everything I need, I'll probably load Win 11 onto the new NVMe drive and see how much faster it is than my 10yo Sata 128GB....

Cheers for your help and advice @beyondlogic 🤓

Glad it works nvme is way faster in terms of boot times you really see a benefit more In applications. And file transfer even though your os works I would still back up data and do a full reset of the existing os ( do not click keep existing files ) main reason you may experience hitching or instability.