- Jan 8, 2014
- 885
- 0
- 11,160
Regular maintenance should be part of everybody's computing routine, and that applies just as much to the hardware as the antivirus and graphics drivers. In this tutorial I'll show you how to get to all the dust that gathers in the dark places where the vacuum brush attacment can't reach, and that means getting tooled up and dirty.
If you have built your PC yourself, you will already know how to take it apart for maintenance; this guide is for those that haven't stripped and/or built a computer before.
"It's not that bad, surely?"
Yes. It. Is. (worst case scenario):
I was asked to 'fix' the non-functioning computer in that picture. All i did was exactly the same as in this tutorial, and now it's working again.
STEP ONE: Tools
Screwdrivers - phillips and flat
Wire cutters for removing cable ties
Hammer and axe (anger management emergency use only)
Paintbrush (not pictured)
Somewhere to work where big clumps of dust and crap all over isn't a problem. As you can probably tell, I went into the garden for this part.
Box, tub or pocket to keep screws safe.
STEP TWO: Disassembly
This is the computer I will be working on, an ancient e-machines pre-built PC belonging to a relative.
As you can see, it's filthy on the outside... which means the inside will be...
...accessible by undoing the thumbscrews on the back edge...
Bleurgh! Dust, cobwebs, dead spiders... You dirty old ...
Close ups.
CPU HSF and shroud:
Fluff:
Cobwebs:
Airflow?
Start disconnecting stuff:
Optical drive is an old IDE unit and has a power (4 pin molex) connector:
And a ribbon cable:
Remove the screws holding it in place, just two on this side, but your case may have more on the other side.
Usually, the drive will slide forwards and out of the case:
The wiring was fixed to the drive cage with a cable tie. Take care not to cut any wires:
Hard drive data and power cables:
The hard drive cage is removable, so I will remove it. Thumbscrew was too tight to undo by hand, but it has a phillips head:
And then the cage will slide up and out:
Unplug cables from the motherboard: Optical ribbon:
ATX 20/24 pin:
Chassis exhaust fan:
CPU 4 pin:
Power supply, usually four screws:
At this point I realised the PSU would not come out until I removed the CPU fan shroud, held on with four plastic clips:
Which i needed a flat screwdriver to prise off, too strong for my fingertip:
And then the PSU will slide toward the front of the case and lift out:
Four screws secure the fan to the CPU heatsink:
And the plug is usually next to or nearby:
Now remove the fan and get ready to retch:
For some reason, there was a PCI modem card in there, even though the motherboard has a LAN port... anyway, any exansion cards need to be unscrewed from the rear of the case, and pulled up out of the slot, keeping it straight as possible.
It can help to grip the card by the bracket/connectors on the outside and the opposite (front) edge of the PCB when lifting out.
A few more cables to disconnect, from the front panel; audio:
USB:
Power switch and other front panel connections can be seen just to the right in the picture above. It's a good idea to take a picture if the wires are different colours - makes it easier to refit than trying to remember if blue/white was power, or hdd...?
With everything unplugged, the motherboard can be extracted. There will be a number of screws securing the mobo to the chassis, how many depends on your case and board. Check the documentation for exact numbers and placement.
This board, once all the screws have been loosened and pocketed, had to slide slightly forward...
...before it could be lifted clear:
Might have been easier had I removed the exhaust fan before now...oh well. Four fan screws hold it in place against the back of the case. The I/O backplate pops out by pressing the edges from the outside.
Yours may be separate, but the top and back panel of this case are one piece. iIt is held in place with more screws, but won't come off until the front bezel is off. The top/back slid backwards enough so I could prise the front off with a flat screwdriver without chipping the paint:
More filth:
And now the other side/top is free:
The front USB/audio connections are in a removable enclosure, held in place with a screw:
STEP THREE: Deep Cleaning.
Grab an old paintbrush, or a new one that you don't mind ruining, and set about it. Get into all the corners and crevices and loosen all the dust and other detritus.
Soon enough it'll be shiny again. If it needs a wash (spillages or staining), now is the time. rinse well and let it dry thoroughly overnight in a warm place. This looks okay, so I'm going to leave the chassis at that.
Do the same for the other panels and the front bezel, and a baby wipe followed immediately by kitchen paper is good for cleaning the painted exterior surfaces.
And now for the components, starting with the power supply: Brush the vents clear of debris and check the interior - this seems not as bad as the exterior so a quick blow out and that'll do.
The motherboard still has the HSF attached to the processor, but I can clean it okay like that as the brush bristles are long enough, no point dismantling any further.
Do the same with the rest of the components, and once they're all defluffed, you're ready to throw it all back together.
STEP FOUR: Reassembly. Go back inside.
Refit the I/O backplate, making sure it's the right way up, then lower the motherboard back into the chassis, look out for flaps on the inside of the backplate that should sit on the connectors, not in them. Screw in place.
Add fans and plug into motherboard headers.
Front USB/audio: The connectors are similar, but different enough not to mix up even if they aren't marked. Each connector has a pin missing in a different place so they will only fit the right header.
Fit the PSU by lowering it into the gap and then sliding back against the chassis. if you can't see the screw holes through the holes in the chassis, it's upside down, try again. Yes, i did
Reconnect the 20/24pin ATX and 4 pin CPU plugs. The CPU fan shroud can now be clipped back on top of the fan.
Slide the hard drive cage back into place, secure with thumbscrew and connect the data and power cables. The connectors are 'L' shaped so you can't go wrong.
Slide the optical drive back in through the opening and fit the screws, Look for the orientation lug on the ribbon cable when reinserting. A 4 pin molex for the power and that's done. Unless your PC is as old and shit as this one, your optical drive will have SATA plugs like the HDD.
The front bezel snaps back on after carefully feeding the wiring through the hole. You'll be glad you took that photo of the plugs earlier. You're welcome.
Side panels back on, and we're finished.
If you have built your PC yourself, you will already know how to take it apart for maintenance; this guide is for those that haven't stripped and/or built a computer before.
"It's not that bad, surely?"
Yes. It. Is. (worst case scenario):
I was asked to 'fix' the non-functioning computer in that picture. All i did was exactly the same as in this tutorial, and now it's working again.
STEP ONE: Tools
Screwdrivers - phillips and flat
Wire cutters for removing cable ties
Hammer and axe (anger management emergency use only)
Paintbrush (not pictured)
Somewhere to work where big clumps of dust and crap all over isn't a problem. As you can probably tell, I went into the garden for this part.
Box, tub or pocket to keep screws safe.
STEP TWO: Disassembly
This is the computer I will be working on, an ancient e-machines pre-built PC belonging to a relative.
As you can see, it's filthy on the outside... which means the inside will be...
...accessible by undoing the thumbscrews on the back edge...
Bleurgh! Dust, cobwebs, dead spiders... You dirty old ...
Close ups.
CPU HSF and shroud:
Fluff:
Cobwebs:
Airflow?
Start disconnecting stuff:
Optical drive is an old IDE unit and has a power (4 pin molex) connector:
And a ribbon cable:
Remove the screws holding it in place, just two on this side, but your case may have more on the other side.
Usually, the drive will slide forwards and out of the case:
The wiring was fixed to the drive cage with a cable tie. Take care not to cut any wires:
Hard drive data and power cables:
The hard drive cage is removable, so I will remove it. Thumbscrew was too tight to undo by hand, but it has a phillips head:
And then the cage will slide up and out:
Unplug cables from the motherboard: Optical ribbon:
ATX 20/24 pin:
Chassis exhaust fan:
CPU 4 pin:
Power supply, usually four screws:
At this point I realised the PSU would not come out until I removed the CPU fan shroud, held on with four plastic clips:
Which i needed a flat screwdriver to prise off, too strong for my fingertip:
And then the PSU will slide toward the front of the case and lift out:
Four screws secure the fan to the CPU heatsink:
And the plug is usually next to or nearby:
Now remove the fan and get ready to retch:
For some reason, there was a PCI modem card in there, even though the motherboard has a LAN port... anyway, any exansion cards need to be unscrewed from the rear of the case, and pulled up out of the slot, keeping it straight as possible.
It can help to grip the card by the bracket/connectors on the outside and the opposite (front) edge of the PCB when lifting out.
A few more cables to disconnect, from the front panel; audio:
USB:
Power switch and other front panel connections can be seen just to the right in the picture above. It's a good idea to take a picture if the wires are different colours - makes it easier to refit than trying to remember if blue/white was power, or hdd...?
With everything unplugged, the motherboard can be extracted. There will be a number of screws securing the mobo to the chassis, how many depends on your case and board. Check the documentation for exact numbers and placement.
This board, once all the screws have been loosened and pocketed, had to slide slightly forward...
...before it could be lifted clear:
Might have been easier had I removed the exhaust fan before now...oh well. Four fan screws hold it in place against the back of the case. The I/O backplate pops out by pressing the edges from the outside.
Yours may be separate, but the top and back panel of this case are one piece. iIt is held in place with more screws, but won't come off until the front bezel is off. The top/back slid backwards enough so I could prise the front off with a flat screwdriver without chipping the paint:
More filth:
And now the other side/top is free:
The front USB/audio connections are in a removable enclosure, held in place with a screw:
STEP THREE: Deep Cleaning.
Grab an old paintbrush, or a new one that you don't mind ruining, and set about it. Get into all the corners and crevices and loosen all the dust and other detritus.
Soon enough it'll be shiny again. If it needs a wash (spillages or staining), now is the time. rinse well and let it dry thoroughly overnight in a warm place. This looks okay, so I'm going to leave the chassis at that.
Do the same for the other panels and the front bezel, and a baby wipe followed immediately by kitchen paper is good for cleaning the painted exterior surfaces.
And now for the components, starting with the power supply: Brush the vents clear of debris and check the interior - this seems not as bad as the exterior so a quick blow out and that'll do.
The motherboard still has the HSF attached to the processor, but I can clean it okay like that as the brush bristles are long enough, no point dismantling any further.
Do the same with the rest of the components, and once they're all defluffed, you're ready to throw it all back together.
STEP FOUR: Reassembly. Go back inside.
Refit the I/O backplate, making sure it's the right way up, then lower the motherboard back into the chassis, look out for flaps on the inside of the backplate that should sit on the connectors, not in them. Screw in place.
Add fans and plug into motherboard headers.
Front USB/audio: The connectors are similar, but different enough not to mix up even if they aren't marked. Each connector has a pin missing in a different place so they will only fit the right header.
Fit the PSU by lowering it into the gap and then sliding back against the chassis. if you can't see the screw holes through the holes in the chassis, it's upside down, try again. Yes, i did
Reconnect the 20/24pin ATX and 4 pin CPU plugs. The CPU fan shroud can now be clipped back on top of the fan.
Slide the hard drive cage back into place, secure with thumbscrew and connect the data and power cables. The connectors are 'L' shaped so you can't go wrong.
Slide the optical drive back in through the opening and fit the screws, Look for the orientation lug on the ribbon cable when reinserting. A 4 pin molex for the power and that's done. Unless your PC is as old and shit as this one, your optical drive will have SATA plugs like the HDD.
The front bezel snaps back on after carefully feeding the wiring through the hole. You'll be glad you took that photo of the plugs earlier. You're welcome.
Side panels back on, and we're finished.
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram