Recent content by a1337cookie

I got it working now. Using msinfo32, I found that it was an Intel DB75EN board on Bios version 0026. Luckily, it wasn't too difficult to find Bios updates, it was available from the Wayback Machine. Flashing the latest version 0046 to the board allowed the GTX 1660 Ti to work. I've yet to try...

I read some other forum posts about UEFI and legacy BIOS support on GPUs, and I think it's likely that this is the issue. The symptoms seem the same, and it was often on this platform as well. So maybe the Mobo doesn't support UEFI, and needs the GPU to support legacy BIOS. Then the MSI Armor...

The only label I saw on the Mobo was 21 b6 e1. I couldn't find a spec page for it online, so I wasn't sure if that was the model number or not. I'll see if I can get the Bios version tonight. The PSU is the EVGA 430 W1, it's just 80+ rated. Not sure how old it is, at least 6-7 years if I had to...

So I got some used GPUs from friends who have been upgrading. I decided to try throwing them into some old office computers, so that they didn't have to use integrated graphics. However, one of the machines is really picky about which GPU it wants to work with. Specs: i3 3220 2x4GB DDR3 Some...

Yes, I removed the film before installing it the first time.

I'll probably do that. I just did a benchmark in Samsung Magician, temp 1 maxed at 74° and temp 2 reached 93°. It probably won't get that hot in normal use, but better safe than sorry I guess.

Huh, so maybe it's a low quality pad? Thanks for the info, guess I'll stop using it then.

So I'm switching out an SSD, and when I removed the heatsink that came with the motherboard, I see this. I know thermal pads leaving some residue is normal, but I can't believe it's so liquidy. It even looks like there's condensation in one spot. Should I continue to use the heatsink? Mobo...

You're right, I know the best practice is to do a fresh Windows install on a motherboard change. I've successfully transferred Windows installs several times in the past though, for my own gaming rig and for friends' rigs. So this time, I was hoping it would work again for a workstation my dad...

I'm upgrading every part of this computer except for the case and storage. I'm hoping to keep the Windows installation intact. The OS is on a 240GB SSD, and the User folders (Documents, Downloads, ect.) are on a 1TB HDD. On first boot with the new parts, the motherboard warned me about a SMART...

Well, I did come up with a solution. I set the resolution of the 1080p display to 4k using DSR, and set the DSR smoothness to 0 to remove the blur. It surprisingly looks very close to native 1080p. Now, since Windows thinks both monitors are 4k and both are using 200% scaling, the taskbar issue...

So I usually run a dual monitor setup with 1080p on the left and 4k in the center, both 27" and 16:9. Of course, I want apps to look the same size, so the 1080p monitor is using 100% scaling, while the 4k is using 200%. I recently decided to move my taskbar to the side, so I would get more...

Yeah, I think I'll drop the OC down to +100 core and +800 mem, just to be safe. I had never noticed any instability at the previous levels, but as you say, it could be becoming more unstable over time. And while the performance difference isn't big, I won't say no to more performance. Sometimes...

Ok thanks, I'll look into it.

I've actually been thinking about upgrading my GPU, case, and PSU all together. I feel that the 3070 is the bare minimum for 4k gaming; a 3080 12GB or 3080 Ti would improve performance a lot, though they are still extremely expensive right now. If I do go for it, I would definitely need a PSU...