Recent content by Andrewbandrew05

I recently did a stupid and didn't check a modular cable before installing it (DOIII). Luckily my hard drives survived, but it seeemed at the time like I had killed my pcie to sata expansion card. I replaced it and everything worked for a bit, but as soon as I rebooted my computer the card died...

I just replaced the crankshaft-position sensor on my 2009 honda odyssey, but I'm still getting an error code telling me the circuit's faulty. Here's a summary of the behavior. Car starts as if cold (takes a few extra turns to fire up) Car runs completely fine up to 3000rpm when it starts...

Dang. That is impressive. Honestly probably way better for our use case than what I specked out. Thanks!

Yeah sorry, I honestly don't know too much more. I think we might end up going with the i5, and worst case scenario we need to get a bigger jackery.

I agree the computer's overkill, we're just in a pretty unique situation due to our inability to buy a pre-built. I also think there's some interest in running windows instead of a lighter weight operating system, necessitating the additional processing power. I think this is the main computer...

As I understand it, we're running a collection of code and a GPS/transmission protocol to communicate with the car. I don't know a ton of stuff about the exact load (I'm fairly new), but I figure good power efficiency+strong single/multithreaded performance when we need it will be nice.

Yeah, closer to this. I think it just runs a bunch of arduino stuff and whatnot. Edit: Also yes, the 1000watt PSU had the best efficiency I could find for even the sub 100 watt category.

Someone else should weigh in on this (I have vastly more experience with AMD that Intel), but I would think you could go with a non-k chip if you aren't overclocking. Also, I highly doubt Intel will let you run DDR4-4000mhz on a B-series motherboard (they're annoying that way), so I'd either get...

I think the plan was originally to use something like that, but our organization runs through a college, and if we buy a complete system they have to put all sorts of fun *cough* malware *cough* I mean "protective measures" on it. However, if we buy a bunch of "replacement parts"...

I've recently been tasked with speccing out a portable desktop for use at baja style off road races. It's run off a 1500watt jackery so it can't be crazy powerful (which is fine because I'm building it to replace a raspberry pi that wasn't quite fast enough for us), but power efficiency is a...

I actually got some frame skips/scan lines at 144 so 145 is def not gonna happen. (Think this is due to my pushing the port on my laptop to its absolute max

I know 1hz is a ridiculously tiny difference (step between 120 and 144hz is 1ms already), it's just a 1080p, edge-lit, non HDR panel dating from about 3 years ago, and I've kind of been wanting to upgrade for a while now anyway. I also figure one Hz will make very little difference as far as...

So I found out that I can drive my MIS monitor at 145hz instead of 144hz (such a difference). Unfortunately, when I try to, a message comes up saying out of range. I am willing to risk damaging my monitor by doing this, but I don't know how to override the message. Any ideas?

Nvm I fixed it

So I have this laptop. I don't know why, but it only supports 120hz at 1080p over its HDMI port. Would I be better off buying a ub-c to HDMI adapter o ush my monitor at its full 144hz refresh rate or would the signal translation the adapter would have to do add enough input lag to make it...