Recent content by martin

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Just to be really clear, you don't have a translite. You have a desperation-style replacement. A real translite will make your machine look nicer, if you can find one.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Figure 2 - 2.5A in attract mode for a modern DMD. Up to 4 - 4.5A in multiball. So in a 20A circuit: 10 machines, maybe, if you don't play them and they are lower end power draw. 7 typical machines, only one in multiball. 6 machines...

Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting,rec.games.pinball (More info?) A usually means the second version of the device. Minor improvements that should not matter in general use. But generally, you would not want to put a non-A part into an A design as it could just not work right.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Here are the numbers that you are looking for. The 13491 is the closest match. You have to measure across the pins as marked in my table. Measuring against ground will not give good results. http://iobium.com/wpc_transformers.htm If your...

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) A bad transistor can do that; so can a short around the socket. Shorts can also destroy a transistor, so check that socket carefully. A bad transistor carries the short odds on this one.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) There are two optos on the flipper opto board, one used for the upper flipper (if present) and one used for the lower flipper. Cleaning is a really good idea. Also, check that the interrupter has full travel through the opto slot.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Yes, once you get it started it is kind of hard not to staple everything in sight. Good thing the dog wasn't around.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/clt/100205727.html

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Pinball Resource had them a few weeks ago, the price is reasonable. they had Kiss lane plastics too.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Start by checking the voltages across D4 and D5. These are 56V Zeners, so you should see 56V on each, 112V across the pair (or 62/124 if you have the 62V version). Also, what transistors do you have in Q4 and Q5? And check the value of R6.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Yes. Incorrect orientation will blow fuses or simply fail to work. If you look at the capacotor, you will see wires that go to two diodes each. For the positive terminal of the capacitor - look for a plus sign on the board - connect to the...

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) On the ground cover, definitely not. next step is to get into the diagnostics and the switch test mode. When you get to the grid, most of the boxes should be empty. Start testing switches, look for the right name to come up. Flippers and...

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) Check that the optos are clean. Also, the software has an option to launch the ball off of the right flipper button. Then go into the test menu and run the switch matrix test.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) It looks yellow against a regular white LED, but it isn't a yellow light. I'll have to kit my machine up and get a picture.

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?) It means a second version of the gumball lamp board. So there would be two versions of the gumball lamp kit - LED white and warm LED white. The LED white gumball lamp kit would go with the LED white clock from PinLiz, or another retrofit...