Question 1080p gaming PC build for CPU demanding games

Johnny Joaozinhe

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I've been thinking about getting a new MB, CPU and RAM to build my current GPU and SSDs around.

This will be to play titles like Mount&Blade Bannerlord and TW Warhammer 2, which are quite demanding on CPUs.

My system:
  • Antec NeoPower 550 PSU (produces 650W? - http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/antec-neopower-550-power-supply-review/10/)
  • ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard
  • AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition Heka Triple-Core 2.8 GHz Socket AM3 95W HDZ720WFK3DGI Processor - OEM (OCed to 3.4 GHz)
  • Sunbeam CR-CCTF 120 mm Core-Contact Freezer CPU Cooler
  • 12GB RAM DDR3
  • MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
  • OS drive: SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 128GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal SSD MZ-7KE128BW
  • Games drive: SAMSUNG 850 EVO SSD 500 GB

As you can see, the MB, CPU and RAM are pretty old, and the CPU is desperately bottlenecking the GPU.

I'd like to have some future proofing (NVMe capability, PCIe 4.0) maybe X570+Ryzen 5 3600?
It seems these games want higher clock speed and not so much higher core count, not sure if the Ryzen 5 3600 is ideal.
What is a good MB CPU RAM combo for this application?

My budget is flexible, but I'd like to get the most bang for my buck.
To be honest RGB kinda annoys me, so the less the better.
Would love to have buttons on the MB to turn it on/off etc. but not a must-have.

Do you think the above cooler would be good to OC a newer CPU?

Idk yet if I want to get a new case and maybe PSU (for better airflow), and keep/sell this PC, since I have a couple Radeon 5770s and HDDs I could stick in there,
Or keep everything and just change out the MB, CPU and RAM.
Any thoughts on this?

What do you guys think? Is it a good time to buy components? Should I wait it out? Not really in a rush.

Sorry for the million questions, trying to be thorough :)

Thanks in advance!
 
That psu is over 10 years old, you have to get a new one. Psu availability is down and price gouging is up due to the pandemic, you'll have to keep a keen eye on when decent units like corsair CX 450w/550w/650w come in($60-$75). Or for any seasonic focus ($90-$120)
Be wary, there are a lot of junk psu's out there.

The cooler wont work, am4 requires an adapter bracket for am3 coolers, so a new one will be in order, like say a Arctic freezer 34.

You'll want fast memory for cpu bound titles, some 2x8gb 3600 cl16 should do.

The ryzen 3600 is fine, it will game within a couple percentile of the other ryzen chips.
B550 boards just released and they are looking overbuilt and a good value despite the pricing coming near x570 boards. So pretty much any x570 or b550 board will do.

Next gen ryzen has a supposed September release, but who really knows.

IMO, since only the gpu and drives can be re-used, may as well get a new case.
 
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Just over 300$ you get a lot better PC, future proof and ready for a next gen GPU once you have more money.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3300X 3.8 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($58.49 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX500 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($57.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $355.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-19 03:31 EDT-0400
 
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Johnny Joaozinhe

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Thank you both, that is very helpful!

I decided to go with:
I was able to order the corsair CX 650W for $85 through Corsair.com ($10 difference from 550W, so why not).

Struggling to pick a case though. Looks like the ones with better airflow don't have optical drive bays. Do I even need it to install Win10? Could I do it from a flash drive?
Considering this https://www.newegg.com/black-fractal-design-meshify-c-dark-tg-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352072?Description=fractal design&cm_re=fractal_design--11-352-072--Product&quicklink=true ,
but, again, undecided if I want tinted tempered glass or no window... decisions!
Any recommendations for a case?

Thanks!
 
Windows can be installed via usb. TBH, I don't even remember the last time I used a disk for an os....windows xp maybe.

Drive bays impede airflow, so naturally any cases with them will be less ideal. Most cases, other then old designs or super budget ones don't come with drive bays either.

The meshify c is one of the best airflow cases, it works even better with some quality 140mm fans.
 
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Johnny Joaozinhe

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I decided to cancel my MSI X570-A PRO backorder after seeing some testing showing that their VRM runs really hot compared to other x570s (tested on open bench but still)

Trying to see if I can get a ASUS prime x570-P, or the Asus TUF gaming x570 plus, but sadly they are both either sold out or ridiculously overpriced.

Still not completely clear on the B550 vs X570. More research is in order I guess.

Any pointers on this would be most welcome

Thanks!
 
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D

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I can give you some advice on the PC case.

Don't go with a glass/closed front case. Go with a case that has a mesh front and dust filters.

You want good airflow in a build like that.

Fractal Design Meshify C and be quiet! Pure Base 500DX are good options. The latter comes with three preinstalled 140mm fans. You can move the top 140mm fan to the front for better airflow.
 
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Johnny Joaozinhe

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So this is what it looks like
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Q8Tg7T

I decided to go with the msi x570 tomahawk, it seems to be the best value. That and the 3300x are on backorder.

Also changed the PSU, went for a gold plus 700w Antec

You can ignore the nvme, that's for future reference, seems like a good one, no?

I plan to remove the HDD tray and put in a bottom intake fan, as well as 2 140 mm in the front, and 1 rear + 1 top exhaust fans, for positive pressure.

What do you think?
 
Also changed the PSU, went for a gold plus 700w Antec
The neo eco zen is mad by andyson. Andyson doesn't have the best reputation, being the oem for many fire hazard psu brands.
There aren't any professional reviews on the neo eco zen, there was one in korean, the crossload looked alright and ripple was under 30mV, so it looks alright, despite the brand name.

Neo eco gold(non zen) is a seasonic focus relabel.

You can ignore the nvme, that's for future reference, seems like a good one, no?
Yes, the 660p is a very good budget performer, not nearly as fast as a 970evo, but honestly, you will never be able to tell the difference. Just don't fill it up past 70% if you get it, performance tanks when full.
 

Johnny Joaozinhe

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The neo eco zen is mad by andyson. Andyson doesn't have the best reputation, being the oem for many fire hazard psu brands.
There aren't any professional reviews on the neo eco zen, there was one in korean, the crossload looked alright and ripple was under 30mV, so it looks alright, despite the brand name.

Neo eco gold(non zen) is a seasonic focus relabel.
Oh boy. I was scared of the Corsair CX, some reviews say that they die after a couple months, or even fry other components.
Are you saying that the Zen PSUs are more likely to fail than the CXs? :(

What you say about the crossload and the ripple seems encouraging, though TBH I'm no PSU guru, so I don't really know what that means 😐
 
Oh boy. I was scared of the Corsair CX, some reviews say that they die after a couple months, or even fry other components.
The CX is one of the most, if not the most, sold psu's. In general, there will always be failures, no matter the unit, and with how often the unit is sold, it "looks" like it has a higher failure rate. But that is mainly since most people don't review products if they've had a good experience, especially a power supply, as it's not an active presence in peoples minds.

Are you saying that the Zen PSUs are more likely to fail than the CXs?
Both units are llc resonant and dc to dc, the cx is made by cwt (which also has garbage units) and the zen by andyson. I have no idea which will fail first as they are based on different platforms but have similar primary and secondary sides. It's a toss up.

Just don't go putting in a 2070 s or something.
 
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Johnny Joaozinhe

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Ok so you're more confident with the CX, since there are more out there, makes sense. Should I put any thought into the bronze vs gold issue?

I'm assuming you're recommending to use neither of these with a 2070 s, since it's such a high end card. Hypothetically and out of curiosity, what PSU would you use for a 2070 s?

Thanks for your help and patience, I greatly appreciate it!
 

DSzymborski

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Moderator
Bronze vs. Gold isn't really a big deal. Efficiency doesn't automatically correlate with overall quality!

The Corsair CX is generally considered the standard decent PSU for a budget build. Reliable and cheap, if not a legendary performer -- it's not expected to be at the price point!

Ignore any customer comment rating on a PSU as they're pretty much worthless. Very few consumers have the specialized equipment to determine just how well a PSU is working outside whether the PC is completely dead or not. That's about as valuable as a cardiologist who evaluates cardiac health solely through whether the patient is dead or alive.

Once you get to the point at which you're paying $500 for a GPU, then it makes sense to invest more in your power supply. When you get to that point, you want something more along these lines:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($125.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $125.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-28 10:30 EDT-0400


Prices are $20-$50 higher than normal at the moment. The COVID-19 outbreak has caused havoc in supply lines for electronics.

Just because there are better PSUs doesn't mean there's anything wrong with a CX. A Ferrari has a lot more cost of ownership than a Toyota Camry, but that doesn't mean a Camry isn't a good car!
 
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DSzymborski

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Since I want to be able to upgrade my GPU or CPU in the future, and I plan to use this PC for many years, I thought maybe the TX-M would be a good choice?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4Z69mg

Should I be worried about the compatibility note? ( MB has an additional 4-pin ATX power connector but the PSU does not ) I'm thinking it would be okay, since it's a semi modular, no?

For most boards (including this one), those additional four-pin connectors aren't actually required. They're for very high-end overclocking to ensure more power, but realistically, they're not usually necessary in that case either.

The TX-M is in the middle of the two PSUs. It's not a bad choice, but looking to the future, I'd go RMx.
 
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Johnny Joaozinhe

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Quick question about the PSU: It seems that right side up would be fan up (sucking air from inside the case) Would it hurt at all if I mounted it fan down in order to suck cool air from underneath the case?
 

Johnny Joaozinhe

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I just tested the PSU using the paper clip method. It constantly makes a clicking sound every half second or so, regardless if the fan is on or not.
It's the Thermaltake toughpower gf1 .
Do I need to RMA it?

EDIT: Ok I might have tested it wrong... when I tested it using the 4th and 3rd pins from the right on the clip side (green to black), it only clicked once when powering on and off :). I tested it before by connecting the green wire to the red (all the wires are black so I thought I had my references right).

Have I damaged it in any way?

((I got a decent-ish price for this PSU... No end to the PSU woes... :(

Is this any good as a replacement?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8L7B2D/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SD3U9M25WHJW&psc=1

or:
https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-550-gold-ssr-550fx-550w/p/N82E16817151189))
 
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