[SOLVED] 2080 Super Not turning On

[geektoid]

Hi friends!

Was wondering if someone could help me troubleshoot (however I feel like the card might be dead). I have a work computer (primarily for video editing) with the following specs:
AMD Ryzen 3900X
T-Force 3200mhz ddr4 32GB RAM
AORUS X570 Mobo
MSI 2080 Super GC (with up to date NVIDIA Studio Drivers)
Raidmax Cobra RX-700AC-B 700W PSU

Anyways, I've had this build for about a year in a half now, and as I was working today, the screen just stopped responding. I shut the computer off and turned it back on again and nothing. Nothing was coming up. Turned it off and back on again a few times. Nothing. I then noticed that the fans on the card weren't spinning on boot. So I reset the card (and RAM sticks just in case) and powered on again. Nothing. I plugged into a differnt port since I read on another message board that there's a possibility the Displayport can sometimes send an error message to the card causing boot issues. Nope, still nothing. So then I figured, this can be one one of two issues, the PCI-e connectors to the PSU causing a short, OR, the Graphics Card is dead (or dying). For something I spent $800 bucks on two years ago, I'd like to think it's no the Graphics Card, however, I unplugged it and then plugged in my older Nvidia 960 in, and it booted on just fine. Took me right into Windows and was working perfectly. Shut down, unplugged, retried the GPU, this time swapping out the PCI-e connector's just in case, and still not turning on.

After all this, I am here to ask, is there anything else I can do here to make this work, or do I, indeed, have a dead GPU? Thank you!

 

[COLGeek]

I suspect your GPU may be okay and the problem is your low-quality PSU.

 

[Metal Messiah.]

Raidmax Cobra RX-700AC-B 700W PSU

This PSU brand/model seems to be the culprit here, IMO. Please get a HIGH quality PSU, and then re-test the GPU. Better yet, if you can check your GPU on some other system, maybe at your friend's place, then it will rule out the card being faulty (assuming that PC has a high quality PSU).

Btw, as a side note, a lot of peeps actually SKIMP on the PSU (not specifically pointing at you out though). And most importantly, WATTAGE number alone means nothing when it comes to any power supply. And 'Raidmax" PSUs are of a very poor quality, lowest end of the PSU tier/hierarchy (generally considered fire hazards).

The main concern is the "quality" of the power, the quality of the components used/CAPS, as well as the total AMP drawn on the +12V RAIL (output), the efficiency under load, "ripple suppression", among other factors. The total wattage number of any PSU is not always really the most important deciding factor, primary concern is the 'quality' of power it produces, and the total capacity of the 12V source etc.

Though how the rails are laid out does not affect that much, i.e. single/multiple +12V rail PSUs. Multi-rail PSU can be mildly better, especially with high wattage unit, but it won't have any impact on your performance, however, it can provide an extra layer of safety in case you get a short circuit.

A multi-rail power supply has OCP on all +12V rails, ensuring that your PC components stay alive, if a problem like a short circuit occurs. A cheap generic/standard low-end PSU is prone to failure soon, than the units made by reputed brands like SEASONIC, Corsair, BE QUIET, EVGA Supernova, PC Power & Cooling, ANTEC (except earthwatts series), XFX, Super Flower, OCZ, just to name a few. Though, even these brands have low -quality PSU units.

The OEM also matters a lot, instead of the actual PSU brand. I've seen PSUs labelled as 1K watts, but in actual real world scenarios, they can hardly pull 400 Watts from the wall, even under full load. I've always given the topmost priority to PSU when building any RIG, and I mostly go for Tier 1 and/or Tier 2 units, because we know a TITANIUM/Platinum/Gold PSU is going to be much more efficient under 50% load, than a bronze/silver or a generic 80 plus certified PSU.

But the exact Wattage requirement still varies from system to system, and if we plan to Overclock the GPU/CPU, then the PSU should have some headroom as well. Power supplies are an imperative part of your system that should not be taken lightly. Throwing in a budget PSU could result in poor power efficiency or even a wrecked system.

 

[geektoid]

This PSU brand/model seems to be the culprit here, IMO. Please get a HIGH quality PSU, and then re-test the GPU. Better yet, if you can check your GPU on some other system, maybe at your friend's place, then it will rule out the card being faulty (assuming that PC has a high quality PSU).

Btw, as a side note, a lot of peeps actually SKIMP on the PSU (not specifically pointing at you out though). And most importantly, WATTAGE number alone means nothing when it comes to any power supply. And 'Raidmax" PSUs are of a very poor quality, lowest end of the PSU tier/hierarchy (generally considered fire hazards).

The main concern is the "quality" of the power, the quality of the components used/CAPS, as well as the total AMP drawn on the +12V RAIL (output), the efficiency under load, "ripple suppression", among other factors. The total wattage number of any PSU is not always really the most important deciding factor, primary concern is the 'quality' of power it produces, and the total capacity of the 12V source etc.

Though how the rails are laid out does not affect that much, i.e. single/multiple +12V rail PSUs. Multi-rail PSU can be mildly better, especially with high wattage unit, but it won't have any impact on your performance, however, it can provide an extra layer of safety in case you get a short circuit.

A multi-rail power supply has OCP on all +12V rails, ensuring that your PC components stay alive, if a problem like a short circuit occurs. A cheap generic/standard low-end PSU is prone to failure soon, than the units made by reputed brands like SEASONIC, Corsair, BE QUIET, EVGA Supernova, PC Power & Cooling, ANTEC (except earthwatts series), XFX, Super Flower, OCZ, just to name a few. Though, even these brands have low -quality PSU units.

The OEM also matters a lot, instead of the actual PSU brand. I've seen PSUs labelled as 1K watts, but in actual real world scenarios, they can hardly pull 400 Watts from the wall, even under full load. I've always given the topmost priority to PSU when building any RIG, and I mostly go for Tier 1 and/or Tier 2 units, because we know a TITANIUM/Platinum/Gold PSU is going to be much more efficient under 50% load, than a bronze/silver or a generic 80 plus certified PSU.

But the exact Wattage requirement still varies from system to system, and if we plan to Overclock the GPU/CPU, then the PSU should have some headroom as well. Power supplies are an imperative part of your system that should not be taken lightly. Throwing in a budget PSU could result in poor power efficiency or even a wrecked system.

I tested the card out with a 700W EVGA 80Plus PSU. Still not posting. Then tried with a Thermaltake 750W Modular PSU. Still nope.

 

[geektoid]

I tested the card out with a 700W EVGA 80Plus PSU. Still not posting. Then tried with a Thermaltake 750W Modular PSU. Still nope.

I'm sorry I should elbaorate a bit. The PSU with the EVGA has a crappy MOBO and CPU (AMD FX chip). So could've been a compatibility issue. However, the Thermaltake PSU is running a Asus x570 with a 5900x and RTX 3070 with 64GB of RAM...Sp yeah...

 

[Metal Messiah.]

Okay, well that sucks. So maybe your GPU is indeed fried, if it is still not posting at all. That "Raidmax" PSU which you have been using might have killed the GPU in the process, though I'm just guessing at this point.

You could try clearing and resetting the CMOS/BIOS on that ThermalTake 750 Watt system, but first make sure the system is running the latest BIOS version as well. Else, I think you need to RMA the card, if all else fails (assuming it is under warranty).

 

[geektoid]

Okay, well that sucks. So maybe your GPU is indeed fried, if it is still not posting at all. That "Raidmax" PSU which you have been using might have killed the GPU in the process, though I'm just guessing at this point.

You could try clearing and resetting the CMOS/BIOS on that ThermalTake 750 Watt system, but first make sure the system is running the latest BIOS version as well. Else, I think you need to RAM the card, if all else fails (assuming it is under warranty).

The PSU is powering on the rest of the system, and has been for over a year. I was going to test the 3070 in it, but after you said the PSU may have fried the previous card, I am now hesitant to even test that theory. If the card is indeed fried, this would be a bummer as I would basically have to go through Herculean trials to get a half way decent GPU these days.

 

[COLGeek]

I'm with MM on this. The PSU likely killed the GPU. Try RMAing the GPU and replace the PSU. Good luck.

 

[Metal Messiah.]

If the card is indeed fried, this would be a bummer as I would basically have to go through Herculean trials to get a half way decent GPU these days.

Btw, I forgot to ask this before. Where are you located, in which country. Because you need to buy both the PSU and a new GPU, depending on the card's availability and pricing. These days buying a new Hardware is like playing a bet, or winning a lottery.

Even I want to buy a new GPU for my system, but the prices are too high in NewEgg, Amazon and Ebay.

 

[geektoid]

Btw, I forgot to ask this before. Where are you located, in which country. Because you need to buy both the PSU and a new GPU, depending on the card's availability and pricing. These days buying a new Hardware is like playing a bet, or winning a lottery.

Even I want to buy a new GPU for my system, but the prices are too high in NewEgg, Amazon and Ebay.

I'm in the US. Graphics Cards are scarce like everywhere else. Luckily I had a spare GTX 960 and 1050 I am able to use in the meantime. It's not particularly ideal for video editing, but it will do for now. So This predicament I found myself in is most unfortunate as it might be a while before I can get a replacement. I have to find my original box to see if I still have warranty covered, and if I do, hope it doesn't take the manufacturer long to fix and/or send me a replacement. And if I'm not covered, then I'll have to sell it for parts and get something that is equivlant that I can find on ebay or elsewhere for cheap or, cross fingers, at retail value.