Question 5 GHz causing shutdowns and issues

[Beyluta1]

I have had this issue for a LONG time now, but I only now decided to find a solution for this issue.

So, whenever I download games from steam using my 5 GHz connection, it almost instantly loses connection to the internet and causes a couple of issues on my PC, such as all usb ports shutting down. Reconnecting does not work and all my devices are unresponsive.
At this point a restart is the only way out.

I can however download the games using my 2.4 GHz connection without issues. Although very slow.

My brother has the exact same wifi adapter as me and he has no issues with it, our drivers are all updated to the latest as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

PC Case: LC-Power Gaming 992B - Solar Flare
Processor (CPU): AMD FX-8350, 8 Core, 8 threads
Graphics Card (GPU): Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070Ti 8GB Vram
Motherboard: Gigabyte 970A-DS3P
Monitor : Samsung Ultra Wide Monitor 4K @75hz
RAM: CRUCIAL Ballistix Sport DIMM 8GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, CL9-9-9-24 (2x = 16GB in total)
Cooling System: Seidon 120V Water Cooling
Power Supply: SHARKOON Power Supply 600W
Memory: HITACHI Deskstar 1TB + HITACHI Deskstar 700GB + 750GB External HDD
Blu-Ray/DVD: LG Electronics DVD ReWriter
Sound: Realtek, 2. High Definition Audio, 7.1-Channel
Speaker: LED Water Dance Music Fountain Speaker
Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma v2
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow X Chroma
Mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
Mousepad: Razer Firefly Chroma
Graphics Tablet: Wacom Intuos Comic
LED: USB LED Stripe by ISY
Internet Adapter: NetGear AC1200 WiFi USB Adaper 802.11ac Dual Band USB 3.0
Software OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64Bit
Direct X : DX12

 

[Lutfij]

List your specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

Are you on the latest drivers for your wireless adapter? Speaking of adapter, is it bundled with your motherboard?

 

[digitalgriffin]

Is your wireless adapter a USB type or PCIe type? It's entirely possible the radio is going bad on the 5GHz spectrum, or the USB is overloading and the poly fuse is blowing. I suspect the former though because if the radio starts sending out a bunch of garbage, the CPU ties up the bus trying to resolve packets and communication.

 

[Beyluta1]

List your specs like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

Are you on the latest drivers for your wireless adapter? Speaking of adapter, is it bundled with your motherboard?

I updated the post with all the info I have about my Build

 

[digitalgriffin]

I updated the post with all the info I have about my Build

Stupid question, but do you have your USB WiFi adapter on a USB 3.0 Port? They are typically blue.

 

[Beyluta1]

Stupid question, but do you have your USB WiFi adapter on a USB 3.0 Port? They are typically blue.

It is connected to an usb hub which is indeed connected to a 3.0 Port.

 

[AllanGH]

Get it off the hub and try it again--Direct Connect to your USB 3 port.

 

[mortemas]

The hub also has to be usb 3.0

 

[digitalgriffin]

While most USB 3 adapters label themselves as being 2.0 backwards compatible, if you draw too much current (USB 3 supplies more) you'll blow the polyfuse. Then windows will note this and disable that port from working with that device to protect the system.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...rking-after-you-remove-or-insert-a-usb-device

Direct connection to your motherboard is the way to go. Don't use a hub.

 

[AllanGH]

You have 7 - I/O expansion slots on your MB and, despite slot disabling when M.2 devices are installed, I'm betting that you have a couple slots free and usable.

If you need more USB ports, don't use a hub. Install one of these instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HDXDYLN

 

[Beyluta1]

While most USB 3 adapters label themselves as being 2.0 backwards compatible, if you draw too much current (USB 3 supplies more) you'll blow the polyfuse. Then windows will note this and disable that port from working with that device to protect the system.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...rking-after-you-remove-or-insert-a-usb-device

Direct connection to your motherboard is the way to go. Don't use a hub.

Hey, I just came back home and tried out your method, unfortunately now I seem to have another issue, none of my usb 3.0 ports are recognizing the adapter. I tried front and back. I hear the windows sound but down there it still says "no connections available" but it works on a 2.0 port and the usb hub. The 3.0 Ports do work. I use them all the time for VR and I just confirmed that again just to be certain.

I’ll see if I can post an image or some other media to show what I mean.

 

[Beyluta1]

You have 7 - I/O expansion slots on your MB and, despite slot disabling when M.2 devices are installed, I'm betting that you have a couple slots free and usable.

If you need more USB ports, don't use a hub. Install one of these instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HDXDYLN

Yes I got exactly one free slot and a few on my hub. Problem is, I need 3.0 for VR and I have very few of these on the MB. My setup is always connected for easy pick and play. I got one 3.0 free on the front but windows is not recognizing the adapter when I connect it.

 

[Beyluta1]

While most USB 3 adapters label themselves as being 2.0 backwards compatible, if you draw too much current (USB 3 supplies more) you'll blow the polyfuse. Then windows will note this and disable that port from working with that device to protect the system.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us...rking-after-you-remove-or-insert-a-usb-device

Direct connection to your motherboard is the way to go. Don't use a hub.

I managed to get around the problem of not recognizing my device when connected to a usb 3.0 port by restarting windows with the device already plugged in. However even on a solo 3.0 port, the issue of everything shutting down is still present.

 

[AllanGH]

Yes I got exactly one free slot and a few on my hub. Problem is, I need 3.0 for VR and I have very few of these on the MB.

So, the I/O expansion card that gives you seven extra USB 3.0 ports....

...that wouldn't do you any good?

 

[Beyluta1]

So, the I/O expansion card that gives you seven extra USB 3.0 ports....

...that wouldn't do you any good?

Wouldn’t solve my network issue.
I managed to connect to an usb 3.0 by restarting the pc with the device plugged in. Even on a solo 3.0 port once I switch and start to use my 5GHz it drops all the devices and I need to restart. But my 2.4GHz speed did improve on a 3.0 Port I could see by the download speed hitting 5MB. Nowhere close to what I actually have though.

 

[AllanGH]

I'm wondering if Netgear offers a firmware update for that adapter?

 

[Beyluta1]

I'm wondering if Netgear offers a firmware update for that adapter?

Sure, my Netgear genie is up-to-date but I’ll see if there are any standalone updates pending on their website.

I hope nothing breaks the adapter cuz I don’t have the CD or even a drive for it anymore. My new case has no opening for them.

 

[AllanGH]

In my personal experience, I've never had good luck with 5GHz networking with USB-connected adapters. PCIe bus adapters seem to be the way to go, if you absolutely MUST HAVE wireless in that band. Wired is the way to go for networking, though. With a couple of our machines, before I got around to pulling wires to each room, I had to go through several different USB wireless adapters to find something would work with specific machines, so keep that in mind....you may be better off trying a different adapter.