Question 5900X very hot at idle and in-game ?

Aug 8, 2022
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I snapped up a 5900x earlier today and I noticed that it was getting quite quite hot just idling and doing nothing basically.

I've looked on the forums and seen lots of people saying quite similar things and people concluding that it is just meant to be like that.



I figured the best course of action is to toss in my HWINFO temps and ask for guidance here.

I have a Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinum and I used a 3600x before this and had no issues with temps. Maybe I simply did a poor thermal paste job? I did re-paste twice to make sure that it wasn't that issue.
 

Math Geek

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at 130w used you def should not be seeing such temps. i have a cheap air cooler on my 5900x and see at most 70 degrees in a gaming scenario. with your cooler you should not hit even that.

i would def check the paste application and try again. i idle around 35 degrees or so and with light use might hit 50 degrees. possible the pump settings or fan curve might be off as well. look close at all the settings to be sure they are doing what you think they are doing.
 
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Aug 8, 2022
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at 130w used you def should not be seeing such temps. i have a cheap air cooler on my 5900x and see at most 70 degrees in a gaming scenario. with your cooler you should not hit even that.

i would def check the paste application and try again. i idle around 35 degrees or so and with light use might hit 50 degrees. possible the pump settings or fan curve might be off as well. look close at all the settings to be sure they are doing what you think they are doing.
I repasted it as suggested and the temps are "slightly" better but still jumping all around the place and hitting the high 70's low 80's when just browsing around.
 

shady28

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I just clicked on those and I think you are probably pumping air.

This is a snippet from Corsair's site about mounting an AIO.

In general, you want to make sure that:
  • The radiator is in a higher position in the loop than the pump. This ensures that the air is captured at the top of the loop and does not go into the pump.
  • The side of the radiator where the tubes are connected should not be at the top of the loop. When air is collected at the top, having the radiator mounted with the tubes down means air is not sucked into the tubes and the pump.
 
Aug 8, 2022
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I just clicked on those and I think you are probably pumping air.

This is a snippet from Corsair's site about mounting an AIO.

In general, you want to make sure that:
  • The radiator is in a higher position in the loop than the pump. This ensures that the air is captured at the top of the loop and does not go into the pump.
  • The side of the radiator where the tubes are connected should not be at the top of the loop. When air is collected at the top, having the radiator mounted with the tubes down means air is not sucked into the tubes and the pump.
Well I am not sure about that but it could be possible. It's just that my previous CPU ran at the normal temperatures with no issues. Is the correct gameplan maybe to swap to a new cooler? And if so, what are the best ones to go for?
 
Aug 8, 2022
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@Mustelimart , that position is fine - you will start to hear running water noises before air becomes an issue.

It doesn't look like you're choking the cooler, so something has to be off with the mounting hardware or how you installed the pump head.
Yeah that's quite possible. This corsair cooler uses a silly clamp and screw mechanic and I felt it hard to tell whether or not it's fully screwed tight or if I should screw some more.
 
The way you mount the rad is not really as big of an issue as many made it out to be, yes ideally you want the lines at the bottom or mount the rad up top for best longevity, now that your cooler is from 2019, mounting it with the hoses up I seriously doubt that is a problem, its not old enough to not have enough fluid to prime the pump on start up, if thats the case, then these AIO's would be long dead before a few years with how many people mount them to front of their case.

Hell my OG h100 should be dead then, I sold the system recently, but it cooled a 1100T and was mounted to the front of the case with the hoses up probably for the last 5- 6 years its been on that CPU, still kept the CPU cool enough to run at 4.1ghz with a 3000mhz CPU-NB.

I think the pump died, not related to how it mounted, that happens, do you feel any fluid moving in the hoses, and does 1 hose feel hotter than the other, if both feel hot, its not moving fluid.

You can go into bios and force the fan header that the pump in plugged into to 100%, thew board could possible be slowing the pump down to much, I've seen this happen on a few boards set to quiet mode for the fans. I use to have a habit of plugging in the AIO into 1 of them fan Molex connectors so the pump always had full power and then adjust it with software.

The cooler does have a 5 year warranty, so it should still be able to be replaced with Corsair if the pump is dead, Corsair is vary good at helping people.


I gave up on AIO's, the last 2 I had both grew stuff in the loop, so I went with Air, my 5900x with aggressive PBO settings get around 80C tops with a NH-D15 with 1 fan,
 
Aug 8, 2022
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The way you mount the rad is not really as big of an issue as many made it out to be, yes ideally you want the lines at the bottom or mount the rad up top for best longevity, now that your cooler is from 2019, mounting it with the hoses up I seriously doubt that is a problem, its not old enough to not have enough fluid to prime the pump on start up, if thats the case, then these AIO's would be long dead before a few years with how many people mount them to front of their case.

Hell my OG h100 should be dead then, I sold the system recently, but it cooled a 1100T and was mounted to the front of the case with the hoses up probably for the last 5- 6 years its been on that CPU, still kept the CPU cool enough to run at 4.1ghz with a 3000mhz CPU-NB.

I think the pump died, not related to how it mounted, that happens, do you feel any fluid moving in the hoses, and does 1 hose feel hotter than the other, if both feel hot, its not moving fluid.

You can go into bios and force the fan header that the pump in plugged into to 100%, thew board could possible be slowing the pump down to much, I've seen this happen on a few boards set to quiet mode for the fans. I use to have a habit of plugging in the AIO into 1 of them fan Molex connectors so the pump always had full power and then adjust it with software.

The cooler does have a 5 year warranty, so it should still be able to be replaced with Corsair if the pump is dead, Corsair is vary good at helping people.


I gave up on AIO's, the last 2 I had both grew stuff in the loop, so I went with Air, my 5900x with aggressive PBO settings get around 80C tops with a NH-D15 with 1 fan,
Yeah I think that might be the gameplan too. Guess I'll have to choose whether I want to RMA with corsair or replace it all together with the NH-D15 (I've heard good things)
 

Phaaze88

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I gave up on AIO's, the last 2 I had both grew stuff in the loop, so I went with Air, my 5900x with aggressive PBO settings get around 80C tops with a NH-D15 with 1 fan,
I haven't given up on them yet, thanks to Alphacool. Full copper loop and uses custom loop parts: Refillable, parts can be replaced if desired, and 2 out of 3 of the common reasons for AIO/CLC pump failures(biological/chemical/mechanical) are eliminated.

Problems are availability and the mounting hardware needs an update.

The cooler is a little over 3 years old. I only ever hear gurgling whenever I turn my computer on or I change the "mode" in iCue.
In other words, it's still fine in that position.

Have you tried the physical check yet? Run Cinebench R23 and feel both of the tubes while it's running.
Good flow: I can't tell a difference, or this one is maybe a little warmer than the other.

Poor flow: Hey, there's clearly a night and day difference between them.
 
Aug 8, 2022
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I haven't given up on them yet, thanks to Alphacool. Full copper loop and uses custom loop parts: Refillable, parts can be replaced if desired, and 2 out of 3 of the common reasons for AIO/CLC pump failures(biological/chemical/mechanical) are eliminated.

Problems are availability and the mounting hardware needs an update.


In other words, it's still fine in that position.

Have you tried the physical check yet? Run Cinebench R23 and feel both of the tubes while it's running.
Good flow: I can't tell a difference, or this one is maybe a little warmer than the other.

Poor flow: Hey, there's clearly a night and day difference between them.
I did the physical check and I noticed two things.

1: The top tube vibrates a noticeable amount more and is a little hotter than the tube beneath it.
2: There is a world of difference in temperature when running a more aggressive speed on my case fans. I dropped from 90 degrees to mid 70's.

View: https://i.imgur.com/1276zsD.png
 

Phaaze88

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1: The top tube vibrates a noticeable amount more and is a little hotter than the tube beneath it.
2: There is a world of difference in temperature when running a more aggressive speed on my case fans. I dropped from 90 degrees to mid 70's.
Ok. The first one means fluid flow is fine.
The second one is HUGE. That means there IS an airflow problem; if it was a pump problem, even max fans wouldn't fix that. What is that case?
 
Aug 8, 2022
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Ok. The first one means fluid flow is fine.
The second one is HUGE. That means there IS an airflow problem; if it was a pump problem, even max fans wouldn't fix that. What is that case?
It's a Corsair Carbide 275r. Been a nuisance to build in and has been kind of a hot box ever since I got it. I would notice significant drops in temperature for my GPU, for example, when I took the side panel off.
 

Phaaze88

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I see. The front panel's choking the radiator fans after all. They have to haul butt to get any air through the radiator plus the little vents on the side and bottom.
It may do better if you move it to the top of the case instead; the fans should have an easier time breathing.
I suggest moving the rear fan to front intake. That way, you can get cool air intake to the cooler from both sides. Don't switch the fan to rear intake though, as it'll just T-bone the pull of the radiator fans. You may want to put a filter there though.
 
I haven't given up on them yet, thanks to Alphacool. Full copper loop and uses custom loop parts: Refillable, parts can be replaced if desired, and 2 out of 3 of the common reasons for AIO/CLC pump failures(biological/chemical/mechanical) are eliminated.
See thats different, I almost wouldn't even call it AIO, But Corsair is nice, the only issue I have ever had with their AIO's was my H100i GTX, it started making noise out of the blue one day, Corsair didn't even ask questions and sent a brand new one and mine was almost 2 years old, So I trust them for AIO's.

I don't trust and refuse to trust Enermax, when I bought a Threadripper 1950x rig, I bought there Liqtech TR4 360mm AIO, it lasted 4 months, they replaced it and it lasted 6 months, and the next replacement was the Liqtech TR4 II, a revised model that supposably had the fix, and yeah it didn't, got 4 months and a bone stock 1950x was overheating at idle, I tookt he cold plate off and what do ya know, white crap floating around in it, thats when I found the Gamer Nexus video about that cooler and a few others. kept the fans and thew the cooler away, wasn't worth asking for a replament again.

I had a Thermaltake Bigwater 2.0 I think it was, lasted over a year on a i7 5960x, but it started to have issues cooling my over clock on it, I decided to buy the NH-D15 and took the big water apart and it has some green stuff in it, but no where near as bad as the Enermax garbage.

At that point I gave up on it, it looks nice, and better looking than the poo brown Noctua fans, but I mean, I'm pushing 5 years on this thing and its been in multiple different systems.
 
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