Question 6-pin and 8-pin PCIe power connectors ?

[Joperrin]

Hey all,

i just got an MSI RTX3070 to replace my EVGA RTX2070S and the first thing I noticed is the new card has 2 x 8-pin PCIe connectors whereas the 2070 has 1 x 8-pin and 1 x 6-pin.
All I have coming out of my PSU is one 8-pin (6+2) and a 6-pin. What’s the best solution? Adapter? My PSU is 800 watt.

 

[Karadjgne]

The 3070 draws a little over 200w. AIB cards, especially OC versions that have 2x 8pin requirements will be drawing @ 250w. Very little of that actually comes from the pcie slot, the lions share comes from the psu.

A 8pin has a capacity maximum of @ 180w before you start melting the pins, each rated at 5A.
A 6pin has a @ 120w rating. The power draw of 250w will be shared equally by both connectors, they get run in parallel, so you are looking at @ 100w per line. That's far too much for a single 6pin to handle safely, given that the rating on the pins is 5A, but that's gambling on a really good and secure connection.

You are asking mass production wiring from China post covid to handle 4.5A out of 5A possible.

Let me know when the adapter starts melting...

 

[Joperrin]

The 3070 draws a little over 200w. AIB cards, especially OC versions that have 2x 8pin requirements will be drawing @ 250w. Very little of that actually comes from the pcie slot, the lions share comes from the psu.

A 8pin has a capacity maximum of @ 180w before you start melting the pins, each rated at 5A.
A 6pin has a @ 120w rating. The power draw of 250w will be shared equally by both connectors, they get run in parallel, so you are looking at @ 100w per line. That's far too much for a single 6pin to handle safely, given that the rating on the pins is 5A, but that's gambling on a really good and secure connection.

You are asking mass production wiring from China post covid to handle 4.5A out of 5A possible.

Let me know when the adapter starts melting...

Well, According to the MSI site, the 3070 I got draws 220W, not 250. I have no plans to over clock it. So, if it’s split evenly over both 8 pin slots that’s 110 watts a piece and the 6 to 8 pin adapter is rated at 120 per the packaging. Keep in mind the 2070 that was already on there was drawing only 5 watts less at 115 and it has a 6 pin slot standard.

 

[USAFRet]

And we out here still do not know the make/model of this PSU.

But recommendations to use some random adapter are flying!

Good luck.
Hope it does not explode.

 

[Joperrin]

And we out here still do not know the make/model of this PSU.

But recommendations to use some random adapter are flying!

Good luck.
Hope it does not explode.

If you read the previous replies, I’ve stated multiple times I plan on taking a closer look at the PSU when I get off work later today. I can’t very well pull apart my PC while I’m at work and not at home where my PC is.

 

[USAFRet]

If you read the previous replies, I’ve stated multiple times I plan on taking a closer look at the PSU when I get off work later today. I can’t very well pull apart my PC while I’m at work and not at home where my PC is.

Yes, I understand this.

I'm just saying that the recommendations to "go for it" are premature and misguided.

Good luck.

 

[Joperrin]

Yes, I understand this.

I'm just saying that the recommendations to "go for it" are premature and misguided.

Good luck.

I mostly agree, I plan on taking a look at the PSU, and depending on what I find I may get a new PSU as I’m almost positive it’s a “no name brand” cheap one. The problem was/is I’m a total novice and when i specked this PC out I had no idea about PSU quality, I just saw “800 watt” and thought “that’s what I need and then some!” So, I’m sort of paying for my ignorance here 2 years later. But PSU’s are cheaper than I thought, so I may just have a new one thrown in there.

 

[DSzymborski]

Well, According to the MSI site, the 3070 I got draws 220W, not 250. I have no plans to over clock it. So, if it’s split evenly over both 8 pin slots that’s 110 watts a piece and the 6 to 8 pin adapter is rated at 120 per the packaging. Keep in mind the 2070 that was already on there was drawing only 5 watts less at 115 and it has a 6 pin slot standard.

This doesn't count for the more significant transient spikes, you're looking at the issue very one-dimensionally. A stock 3070 has peaks over 250W and aftermarket ones like the ASUS TUF and MSI Gaming X Trio spike over 280W. And all this is assuming a high-quality PSU, of which no evidence has been provided, yet you're already buying parts based on the assumption that you have one.

You are being given dangerous advice by a couple of people who have no skin in the game. If something happens to your GPU or computer as a whole, neither are going to pay for your parts. You say the you're a novice. We see thousands and thousands of very specific PC problems a year here, and many of them are novices who have received poor advice from people and become more expert through the hard, very expensive lessons of having their PCs destroyed or their data lost. Discretion is the better part of valor.

 

[Joperrin]

This doesn't count for the more significant transient spikes, you're looking at the issue very one-dimensionally. A stock 3070 has peaks over 250W and aftermarket ones like the ASUS TUF and MSI Gaming X Trio spike over 280W. And all this is assuming a high-quality PSU, of which no evidence has been provided, yet you're already buying parts based on the assumption that you have one.

You are being given dangerous advice by a couple of people who have no skin in the game. If something happens to your GPU or computer as a whole, neither are going to pay for your parts. You say the you're a novice. We see thousands and thousands of very specific PC problems a year here, and many of them are novices who have received poor advice from people and become more expert through the hard, very expensive lessons of having their PCs destroyed or their data lost. Discretion is the better part of valor.

I see, very good points. As I said, I’m still leaning heavily toward a new PSU because I can almost garantee it’s a cheap no name brand, unless there’s another 8 pin connector buried in there that they didn’t need, I’ll find out for sure tonight. Was not aware of the spikes in current. Thanks for the clarification. I’ll post when I know for sure.

 

[faalin]

Not going to work as planned. A 6pin has 2x 12v wires and a sense wire on the top level and 3x grounds on the bottom. When you put that into a 6pin receptacle, the gpu sees the sense wire and knows its a 6pin. The +2 are another sense wire and a ground. When joined with the 6pin, the gpu sees the 2nd sense pin in the right position, the original sense becomes a standard 12v.

By using the 6pin to 8pin adapter, that doesn't happen and you end up trying to pull 150w through wires rated at 120w.

There's reasons why adapters of that kind are strongly advised against in use. Adapting to the same, but different, is one thing, like an 8pin to 2x 6pin is ok. But using an adapter to 'create' more is totally different. One is safe, the other is a fire hazard.

An 800w psu should have 2x 8pin/2x 6pin capability. Meaning you are simply missing the correct wiring from ibuypower. You need the right 6+2 pin connections. If that psu is not modular/semi-modular, and is hardwired, then the obvious conclusion would be its simply not designed for that kind of 12v outputs, and the 800w is purely fictional.

Might want to recheck your pin outs

6 Pin pins 1&3 are 12V pin 2 is sometimes left open, if filled will be a 12v. Pin 4&6 are grounds with pin 5 being a sense pin
6+2 Pin follow pin out for 8 pin

8 pin pins 1,2,3 are 12V with pin 4 being a second sense. Pin 5,7,8 are grounds with pin 6 being primary sense.

 

[Darkbreeze]

There's reasons to take risks every day my friend. Accepting risk is a part of life, without it we wouldn't get anywhere.
Is saving the $130 for a new PSU worth the potential fire hazard? Some would say yes, I've been there, I know what it's like.

Are you being obtuse on purpose or do you really not understand that I was specifically referring to taking risks with your power supply? And no, there is NOT a reason to take any risks with your power supply, ever, in any circumstance. If you want to take risks with yours, great, do so, but don't come here advising other people that THEY should take risks with THEIR hardware. These are real people, who paid real money for real hardware and they are looking for real answers. Not some off the cuff, smart alecky quips from somebody who clearly is unconcerned about anybody but themselves. If this is the best advice you have to offer then I'd suggest you work on improving your advice or offer it elsewhere because it's not the kind of thing we like to see people slinging to our members.

And if you think that potentially losing 1300.00 worth of hardware while trying to save 75-100 dollars on a power supply that is actually suitable for the job is a good risk, then you definitely have no business offering anybody advice in this area.

 

[Darkbreeze]

When we know what the ACTUAL model of the PSU is, then recommendations based on knowledge can proceed from there. Anything else is simply throwing crap at the wall to see what sticks.

 

[Joperrin]

Are you being obtuse on purpose or do you really not understand that I was specifically referring to taking risks with your power supply? And no, there is NOT a reason to take any risks with your power supply, ever, in any circumstance. If you want to take risks with yours, great, do so, but don't come here advising other people that THEY should take risks with THEIR hardware. These are real people, who paid real money for real hardware and they are looking for real answers. Not some off the cuff, smart alecky quips from somebody who clearly is unconcerned about anybody but themselves. If this is the best advice you have to offer then I'd suggest you work on improving your advice or offer it elsewhere because it's not the kind of thing we like to see people slinging to our members.

And if you think that potentially losing 1300.00 worth of hardware while trying to save 75-100 dollars on a power supply that is actually suitable for the job is a good risk, then you definitely have no business offering anybody advice in this area.

The more research I do the more I agree the adapter is a bad idea. I thought PSU’s were like $300 but EVGA makes a good 850W PSU (GQ series) and has excellent reviews that I can get from Best Buy for $105. I’m sure that’s better than the No name brand one they put in mine. They will even install it for an additional $40 so a novice like me won’t screw it up. I’m thinking of just doing that.

 

[DSzymborski]

The more research I do the more I agree the adapter is a bad idea. I thought PSU’s were like $300 but EVGA makes a good 850W PSU (GQ series) and has excellent reviews that I can get from Best Buy for $105. I’m sure that’s better than the No name brand one they put in mine. They will even install it for an additional $40 so a novice like me won’t screw it up. I’m thinking of just doing that.

We don't recommend the GQ for 3070s and up because of the issue with transients. While it's a good -- though not amazing -- line, there have been a lot of reports of significant crashing issues with these specific GPUs when paired with PSUs that use the active clamp reset forward topology, which is what FSP uses when manufacturing this line. It's for cost savings.

There are options, however, in the same price range.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P6 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G6 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

These are both Seasonic made, with full-bridge/LLC converter on the primary.

Also, if you can only buy from Best Buy.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $110.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:42 EDT-0400

 

[DSzymborski]

For further reading.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193-14.html

Topologies and regulations, what should I look for?

Introduction This time I'm doing a short bit on a couple of topologies and methods of regulation, and their up- and downsides. A short conclusion will be written below, so you don't have to read the whole thing to make your PSU choice. Topologies - Double Forward - Active Clamp Reset Forward (ACR...

linustechtips.com

 

[Joperrin]

We don't recommend the GQ for 3070s and up because of the issue with transients. While it's a good -- though not amazing -- line, there have been a lot of reports of significant crashing issues with these specific GPUs when paired with PSUs that use the active clamp reset forward topology, which is what FSP uses when manufacturing this line. It's for cost savings.

There are options, however, in the same price range.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P6 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G6 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

These are both Seasonic made, with full-bridge/LLC converter on the primary.

Also, if you can only buy from Best Buy.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $110.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:42 EDT-0400

Any recommendations on the 800-850W range? Or is 750 enough?

 

[Joperrin]

We don't recommend the GQ for 3070s and up because of the issue with transients. While it's a good -- though not amazing -- line, there have been a lot of reports of significant crashing issues with these specific GPUs when paired with PSUs that use the active clamp reset forward topology, which is what FSP uses when manufacturing this line. It's for cost savings.

There are options, however, in the same price range.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P6 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G6 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $99.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:40 EDT-0400

These are both Seasonic made, with full-bridge/LLC converter on the primary.

Also, if you can only buy from Best Buy.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $110.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 13:42 EDT-0400

Thoughts on this one? Similar to the 650W but 850.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...tx-power-supply-black/6459244.p?skuId=6459244

 

[DSzymborski]

Thoughts on this one? Similar to the 650W but 850.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...tx-power-supply-black/6459244.p?skuId=6459244

It's an excellent PSU. 850W would be just fine; I only looked at up to 750W since a 3070 doesn't need 850 (though it's prudent for a 3080 and definitely a 3090).

Since I'm making a recommendation that involves you spending money, I'm trying to not be lavish with money that isn't mine!

 

[Joperrin]

It's an excellent PSU. 850W would be just fine; I only looked at up to 750W since a 3070 doesn't need 850 (though it's prudent for a 3080 and definitely a 3090).

Since I'm making a recommendation that involves you spending money, I'm trying to not be lavish with money that isn't mine!

Greatly appreciated! I’ll take a look at all of them.

 

[Cookiezaddict]

All this conversation is rather pointless. And you're dragging it out by not providing necessary info on your PSU model.
Can you get a photo of label printed on your PSU?
(upload to imgur.com and post link)

I am a noob noob, both in PC and in PC forums, I am super confused as in why so many people shared problems without specify their systems? LOL

 

[A_Goat]

Are you being obtuse on purpose or do you really not understand that I was specifically referring to taking risks with your power supply? And no, there is NOT a reason to take any risks with your power supply, ever, in any circumstance. If you want to take risks with yours, great, do so, but don't come here advising other people that THEY should take risks with THEIR hardware. These are real people, who paid real money for real hardware and they are looking for real answers. Not some off the cuff, smart alecky quips from somebody who clearly is unconcerned about anybody but themselves. If this is the best advice you have to offer then I'd suggest you work on improving your advice or offer it elsewhere because it's not the kind of thing we like to see people slinging to our members.

And if you think that potentially losing 1300.00 worth of hardware while trying to save 75-100 dollars on a power supply that is actually suitable for the job is a good risk, then you definitely have no business offering anybody advice in this area.

Acceptable risk for somebody else is not your decision to make. We're here to advise of the risks, which we've done. Degrading to personal insults aren't necessary, and if that's what you've resorted to then so be it, I will not be returning the favor.

As you ignored in my original comment, I'd only run it IF the power supply had appropriate 12v headroom. The cables could theoretically handle it, and my opinion is that I'd run it. Yes, it's a risk, to say that specific risk is unacceptable by ANYONE is simply incorrect. That's not for you to decide.

The more research I do the more I agree the adapter is a bad idea. I thought PSU’s were like $300 but EVGA makes a good 850W PSU (GQ series) and has excellent reviews that I can get from Best Buy for $105. I’m sure that’s better than the No name brand one they put in mine. They will even install it for an additional $40 so a novice like me won’t screw it up. I’m thinking of just doing that.

Replacing it would certainly be the safest option, enjoy.

 

[USAFRet]

I'd only run it IF....

And once again, we still do not know the actual PSU included with this iBuyPower system.

Let's everyone back off a bit, until we DO know some more details.

It may be fine, it may be an insurance claim waiting to happen.

 

[Darkbreeze]

This:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G7 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ EVGA)
Total: $109.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-09-12 23:33 EDT-0400