6700k overheating after GPU change

[khardlif]

Hello,

recently I have changed my old GPU to RTX 2080. After that change my CPU started to have temperature issues. In idle it has spikes going from 35 to 55C. One time it even reached 70 after launching browser. In games it's going up to 95C very quickly. I tried to change core voltage on CPU, i've check if the cooler is working properly (it's AIO) and also my PC is clean. What I think is that my PSU can be too bad for this setup. Nvidia recommends to use 650W PSU while I have only 600W.

@Edit - I also tried to check if problem exists if dedicated GPU is unplugged. I was using only integrated intel graphics and my temperatures were ok. I've run stress test and peak of my temp was 67C.

Here is my setup:
GPU: RTX 2080
CPU: I7 6700k (it was running at 4,6GHz but I've lowered it to check if that helps - not)
PSU: CHIEFTEC 600W 14CS
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB DDR4
CPU Cooler: Enermax Lepa Aquachanger 240
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv (with 3 originally mounted 140mm fans)
Drives: 2x HDD and 1 sata SSD

That's all folks. Do you think that PSU is the case or something else is causing the problem?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Power supplies don't cause systems to overheat, not even if they are drastically underpowered. However, that being said, it's possible I guess that you are getting faulty sensor readings because you have an EXTREMELY terrible power supply. Also, if the pump is getting less than adequate power due to an inability to supply the necessary power, then I guess it's possible to have the PSU affect cooling in that way.

You do not EVER want to purchase a power supply from Chieftec. They are among the worst possible units that exist. Avoid buying ANY of these:

These units are NOT recommended for any system, no matter the purpose. Reference to higher tiered models for a better and potentially money-saving unit


A-TOP technology
Apevia
Apex (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Artic / Ace (They're the same company)
Aspire (Turbocase)
ATADC
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
CIT
Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower
Dynex
Eagletech
Enlight
Evo labs
EZ-cool
Foxconn
G7
HEC / Compucase Orion
HEDY (should be WAAAYYY lower down than these units. They're that bad)
iStar computer co.
Jeantec
JPac
Just PC
Linkworld electronics
Logisys computer
Macron
MSi (just stick to their GPUs and motherboards)
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
Okia
Powercool
Powmax
Pulsepower
Q-tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
SFC
Sharkoon
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Startech
Storm
Sumvision
Tesla

Thermaltake -
BronzeMunich 430w
Purepower NP / RU
TR2 and TR2-RX

Trust (Stick to their peripherals)
Wintech
Winpower
xTreme (Cyberpower PSUs)
Youngbear
Zebronics


I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, so if it specifically says 2017 model, then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

They CAN be used, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and bad. Bad are the W1, N1, B1, B3 and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are exemplary.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3612443/power-supply-discussion-thread.html

 

[vMax]

Not the best PSU at all and the 2080 adds a bit more power over the 1080ti... Get something like a 750w or even better 850w Seasonic Focus Plus gold...awesome power supply..Especially as you have good hardware in the 2080...

 

[khardlif]

Thanks guys. I'll order Seasonic PSU as fast as I can before I damage something!

 

[se7enX89X]

Hello,

recently I have changed my old GPU to RTX 2080. After that change my CPU started to have temperature issues. In idle it has spikes going from 35 to 55C. One time it even reached 70 after launching browser. In games it's going up to 95C very quickly. I tried to change core voltage on CPU, i've check if the cooler is working properly (it's AIO) and also my PC is clean. What I think is that my PSU can be too bad for this setup. Nvidia recommends to use 650W PSU while I have only 600W.

@Edit - I also tried to check if problem exists if dedicated GPU is unplugged. I was using only integrated intel graphics and my temperatures were ok. I've run stress test and peak of my temp was 67C.

Here is my setup:
GPU: RTX 2080
CPU: I7 6700k (it was running at 4,6GHz but I've lowered it to check if that helps - not)
PSU: CHIEFTEC 600W 14CS
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB DDR4
CPU Cooler: Enermax Lepa Aquachanger 240
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv (with 3 originally mounted 140mm fans)
Drives: 2x HDD and 1 sata SSD

That's all folks. Do you think that PSU is the case or something else is causing the problem?

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having this exact same issue.