7700(Not K) reaching 97C? Is it safe?

[Kobe Eveleigh]

I have i7-7700(Not K) reaching 97c while playing Fallout 4, Skyrim or CEMU. Idle temps 43 to 50c. One core is a lot hotter than the others with the hottest core being 97 at load while the others peaked at 90, it idles at 48-50 while the others are 43-45. I have stock cooler but read usually it should be fine for non-overclocking capable systems with locked CPUs. Voltage max was a 1.208, I read sometimes this kind of high temps can happen if system sets voltage really high like 1.3 for some reason.

I've got RealTemp, & Prime95 but scared to run the test in case it could cause damage to my system? I suspect bad sensors since the motherboard temp sensor is for sure bad as it always says the idle is 115-120c(with peak not really being any higher, it always ranges between 115-120c) which if true I am pretty sure the PC would not work.

 

[mdd1963]

The stress tests included within CPU-Z or Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility are much closer to the real world temps encountered after playing BF1 (instantaneous 63-64C), where as Prime95/small FFTs v26.6 runs a full 10C warmer than most actual gaming loads on my 7700K...

You might also check to see if your MB is running MCE (Enhanced Turbo on MSI?) enabled, which runs all cores at max turbo, which, if enabled, clearly your factory cooler might not suffice.

Good luck..

 

[Kobe Eveleigh]

The stress tests included within CPU-Z or Intel's Extreme Tuning Utility are much closer to the real world temps encountered after playing BF1 (instantaneous 63-64C), where as Prime95/small FFTs v26.6 runs a full 10C warmer than most actual gaming loads on my 7700K...

You might also check to see if your MB is running MCE (Enhanced Turbo on MSI?) enabled, which runs all cores at max turbo, which, if enabled, clearly your factory cooler might not suffice.

Good luck..

That's an interesting point, I didn't know anything about it. I got an Asus Z270m.

Good to know about the temps being higher in Prime95, the 10C warmer ones like that might be risky business on my PC. According to the temp guide what I'm at when gaming is already super bad.

Might try reinstalling Skyrim(Original not SSE), see if temp might be more reasonable there for now while I'd be waiting for a new cooler. Or I'll try dabbling in 3D modeling/texturing, it's doubtful that the stressful on PC stages could get reached since I'm a total beginner at those.

 

[CompuTronix]

Kobe Eveleigh,

Before you purchase a 212, there's one more rather obvious item that's been overlooked in this Thread. It's still possible that your stock cooler isn't firmly seated due to a push-pin that's pulled loose from the motherboard. All push-pin coolers are notorious for this problem.

Although your symptoms don't seem to closely match the Core temperature behavior typical of the loose push-pin scenario, a loose push-pin will usually show higher Core temperatures than yours does at idle, as well as during light loads. Even a moderate load will quickly reach Throttle temperature at 100°C.

A push-pin that's pulled loose from the motherboard will causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures even in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially at 100% workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found a loose push-pin.

The push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, rotate the latch mechanism in the direction of the arrow counterclockwise 90° then retract the pin by pulling upward. Rotate the latch clockwise 90° to reset the pin, but do NOT push on the latch yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qczGR4KMnY

If that doesn't solve the problem, then do yourself a favor and order a 212. You won't regret it, and you'll never look back.

CT

 

[mdd1963]

The Asus series of MBs definitely has MCE enabled by default, so, possibly you would be running all cores at max turbo....; HWMonitor would clearly show that, and quickly. Even disabling MCE should give you several more degrees of headroom.... (You'd lose a few FPS, but, that's preferable to running at 97C)

 

[CompuTronix]

The Asus series of MBs definitely has MCE enabled by default, so, possibly you would be running all cores at max turbo....; HWMonitor would clearly show that, and quickly. Even disabling MCE should give you several more degrees of headroom.... (You'd lose a few FPS, but, that's preferable to running at 97C)

Thanks MDD.

There's a HWiNFO screenshot several posts above which shows all Cores at 4.1.

Disabling MCE is a good suggestion, however, Kobe Eveleigh seems very performance minded. He may not want to disable MCE, but would instead prefer to just replace the stock cooler.

Hopefully he'll find a loose push-pin as suggested above.

CT

 

[Kobe Eveleigh]

Kobe Eveleigh,

Before you purchase a 212, there's one more rather obvious item that's been overlooked in this Thread. It's still possible that your stock cooler isn't firmly seated due to a push-pin that's pulled loose from the motherboard. All push-pin coolers are notorious for this problem.

Although your symptoms don't seem to closely match the Core temperature behavior typical of the loose push-pin scenario for which Intel stock coolers are notorious, a loose push-pin will usually show higher Core temperatures than yours does at idle, as well as during light loads. Even a moderate load will quickly reach Throttle temperature at 100°C.

A push-pin that's pulled loose from the motherboard will causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures even in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially at 100% workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found a loose push-pin.

The push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, rotate the latch mechanism in the direction of the arrow counterclockwise 90° then retract the pin by pulling upward. Rotate the latch clockwise 90° to reset the pin, but do NOT push on the latch yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qczGR4KMnY

If that doesn't solve the problem, then do yourself a favor and order a 212. You won't regret it, and you'll never look back.

CT

Sounds awesome thanks so much for your help! For trying to push in the corners where the push pins are while PC is on, is there the risk of static and would it be enough to place hand on the case to ground it?(My floor is hardwood at least, thankfully not carpet).

Seems plausible possibility because it looks like my case is awesome as even after a year there is not much dust.

The Asus series of MBs definitely has MCE enabled by default, so, possibly you would be running all cores at max turbo....; HWMonitor would clearly show that, and quickly. Even disabling MCE should give you several more degrees of headroom.... (You'd lose a few FPS, but, that's preferable to running at 97C)

Thanks MDD.

We've already done that with HWiNFO. There's a screenshot several posts above which shows all Cores at 4.1.

Disabling MCE is a good suggestion, however, Kobe Eveleigh seems very performance minded. He may not want to disable MCE, but would instead prefer to just solve the problem.

CT

I guess that's true because I did learn about some of the performance metrics for GPU/CPU but didn't learn much about cooling as I decided on no OC early on and also that I didn't need more than 4 cores. I might have considered a Kaby Lake i5 if not for the lack of hyper-threading. Might've gone Ryzen except they do worse on Fallout 4 & some others I play.

I think I'll try it(unless it's really well hidden in the BIOS menu). Performance is pretty much always satisfactory so far, it's part of what confused me about the overheating CPU since I'd have figured performance would go down the drain once throttling kicks in. It may have only happened due to having a super elaborate settlement. I did notice FPS would drop for only a split second to like 50-55, it's brief enough that I didn't really notice before but after seeing in HWiNFO Heat Throttling: Yes as I was then looking for it. Although even still that's an extremely minor drop.

Only time performance has gotten really bad for me was when having a ridiculous settlement with 100 Settlers and a bunch of Sim Settlements plots (Over 100), even then the FPS is probably still somewhere about as good as on Xbox though a little less consistent. My PC is somewhat overkill for a lot of the game I play. Didn't notice any observable difference in performance after disabling XMP other than the load screen became a little longer, in game basically no difference.

I guess it's due to coming from literal trash system. As a bonus question, how many times more powerful each are GTX 1080 & i7-7700 over laptop with GT 330m & i5-480m 2.67Ghz(AKA the kind of system we buy when having 0 knowledge of PCs)

 

[CompuTronix]

Kobe Eveleigh,

It's OK to ground yourself on the case, preferably on an unpainted screw head or rivet. Follow the loose push-pin troubleshooting steps I outlined above. Make sure your rig is under load so the Core temperatures are high. We need to know if the cooler is firmly seated. If it's not, then finding and correcting a loose push-pini will definitely reduce your Core temperatures.

As to your bonus question, there's no comparison. It's a day and night difference. According to the specs you've given, the laptop hardware is ridiculously outclassed by the PC hardware.

CT

 

[mdd1963]

The Asus series of MBs definitely has MCE enabled by default, so, possibly you would be running all cores at max turbo....; HWMonitor would clearly show that, and quickly. Even disabling MCE should give you several more degrees of headroom.... (You'd lose a few FPS, but, that's preferable to running at 97C)

Thanks MDD.

There's a HWiNFO screenshot several posts above which shows all Cores at 4.1.

Disabling MCE is a good suggestion, however, Kobe Eveleigh seems very performance minded. He may not want to disable MCE, but would instead prefer to just replace the stock cooler.

Hopefully he'll find a loose push-pin as suggested above.

CT

I'd prefer MCE on myself, it's a nice bonus, a few extra cores at 300-400 MHz higher than 'normal', etc...

Naturally, he can re-enable MCE once getting a cooler that 'copes' better.