[SOLVED] 8700k issues

tytanium

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Jan 3, 2019
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was gaming one night and all was fine. was playing warzone and getting about 120fps. Next day go to play and im only getting 38 with drops down to like 7fps. all temps were fine.

trouble shot for a few days until i noticed my 4.8 overclock would drop down to 800mhz when i went into the game and then when leaving the game would only go back up to 4.3 and even a stresstest would not get it passed the 4.3. If i reboot it goes back up to the 4.7 until i try and game again.

Aida64 test had my temps at 66.

Someone please help

8700k
32gb 3600
evga 2070super
650w seasonic focus platinum
msi z370 gaming m5
 
Solution
the cpu is only going to fluctuate when having turbo boost enabled, multi-core enhancement off and the cpu is not at a 100% load and having power saving function's enabled.

Right, and this is exactly how it is RECOMMENDED to be configured. Only the uninitiated would set their CPU to run at only speeds between base clock and peak boost/OC.

However, if he has it under load and he has it at a static 4.8 and it still drops there's a problem.

Right, except that it doesn't matter what kind of configuration it is set to, static or otherwise, if the CPU is under a full load (Such as running Prime95 Small FFT which is a steady state load) then it should NOT ever drop down to anything less than what the peak boost/OC frequency...
If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

Make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.

It's possible that Windows may have changed one or more drivers during a Windows update, even if you were not aware of it. You can turn off automatic driver updating in Windows update as follows.



IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth,

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.


Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU



And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
 

piechockidocent9

Honorable
Aug 30, 2017
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In bios's overclocking options "CPU Ratio Mode" should be set to "Fixed Mode" and "CPU Core/GT Voltage" set to "Override Mode". All power saving options like "Intel C-State" in "CPU Features" section disabled.
From ur description it looks like good old clock dumping due to unstable oc or thermal throtling. If ur temps are rly ok and aida doesn't show tt issues it might be either bad oc or a faulty/dying cpu. Try backing off the oc by setting 1.2v with settings mentioned above then see how much you can squeeze out (my bet would be smthing around 4.3-4.4ghz) while stable and by stable I mean at least 30 min lasting test with no errors and good temps. Then try gaming again, if the clocks are dropping again I'd call bad cpu.
 

HaizRail007

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Yeah I would have to agree with piechockidocent9. Moreover, How long have you ran it overclocked and what was the cooling system and have you delided it. because from your description it sounds as if your cpu is failing. if it was me I'd reset the bios to default and run memtest and prime 95 and if your getting the same results I'd bet it was cpu related.
 

tytanium

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i will make sure those settings are checked off. i have been running the overclock since feb 2019. it is not delided. cooling started with a noctua nh-d15 and is currently running a 280mm Arctic Liquid Freezer 2.

I just checked the bios and its actually running the original bios still. is there any chance its the motherboard and not the cpu?
 

tytanium

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Jan 3, 2019
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In bios's overclocking options "CPU Ratio Mode" should be set to "Fixed Mode" and "CPU Core/GT Voltage" set to "Override Mode". All power saving options like "Intel C-State" in "CPU Features" section disabled.
From ur description it looks like good old clock dumping due to unstable oc or thermal throtling. If ur temps are rly ok and aida doesn't show tt issues it might be either bad oc or a faulty/dying cpu. Try backing off the oc by setting 1.2v with settings mentioned above then see how much you can squeeze out (my bet would be smthing around 4.3-4.4ghz) while stable and by stable I mean at least 30 min lasting test with no errors and good temps. Then try gaming again, if the clocks are dropping again I'd call bad cpu.
Yeah I would have to agree with piechockidocent9. Moreover, How long have you ran it overclocked and what was the cooling system and have you delided it. because from your description it sounds as if your cpu is failing. if it was me I'd reset the bios to default and run memtest and prime 95 and if your getting the same results I'd bet it was cpu related.

just flashed the most recent bios. again on startup it goes to the 4.7 no problem and is currently in an aida64 test now showing 77 degrees (not sure how its 11 degrees warmer now) i will let the test run a bit then start a game and see what happens. it always seems to be fine until i start a game
 
In bios's overclocking options "CPU Ratio Mode" should be set to "Fixed Mode" and "CPU Core/GT Voltage" set to "Override Mode". All power saving options like "Intel C-State" in "CPU Features" section disabled.
From ur description it looks like good old clock dumping due to unstable oc or thermal throtling. If ur temps are rly ok and aida doesn't show tt issues it might be either bad oc or a faulty/dying cpu. Try backing off the oc by setting 1.2v with settings mentioned above then see how much you can squeeze out (my bet would be smthing around 4.3-4.4ghz) while stable and by stable I mean at least 30 min lasting test with no errors and good temps. Then try gaming again, if the clocks are dropping again I'd call bad cpu.
How do you figure this is something that would change "overnight", with no configuration, hardware or software changes having occurred to the system?

If this was a new build, or they'd been doing some tinkering with the system between X and Y timeframes, then I'd agree, in theory, that something like this could be relevant. But that's not the case, judging by the information we were given.

That means either something ELSE, like Windows itself, made some changes between point A and point B, or something else was changed.
 

tytanium

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How do you figure this is something that would change "overnight", with no configuration, hardware or software changes having occurred to the system?

If this was a new build, or they'd been doing some tinkering with the system between X and Y timeframes, then I'd agree, in theory, that something like this could be relevant. But that's not the case, judging by the information we were given.

That means either something ELSE, like Windows itself, made some changes between point A and point B, or something else was changed.

ya it literally was over night. the ONLY change that was made was on the night it was running fine i got a new monitor. literally the next day after not being on it all day this started
 

HaizRail007

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it's warmer, so it's being supplied with more power more than likely, so something has changed in bios,was there a recent windows update that changed power settings and have you tested the power supply voltage's with and without it being under load. Moreover, most people don't consider this, but in order to get a signal from your gpu to your monitor there has to be power running through the cable, so there's a slim possibility that the monitor is pulling to much power.

In addition, in order to rate a power supply you need to add up all of your hardware and then multiply that by 30%. another thing people forget to consider is the amps on the 12 volt rail. For example you can have a power supply of 750 watts and lets say it has 15 amps on the 12 volt rail, and your gpu needs 10 of thoughts amps, so when you add that to the rest of your system then your 750 watt isn't enough because it doesn't have the amp's to run properly. and yes the motherboard could be at fault. were you doing any air cooling on the vrm's, with it overclocked after you put the aio on. Because what will happen as your mosfests and/or vrm's get hotter your cpu will throttle, just as your describing. Moreover, the longer you let them run hot, the shorter the lifespan and can cause failure of your motherboard, cpu and your dim's.
 
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tytanium

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it's warmer, so it's being supplied with more power more than likely, so something has changed in bios,was there a recent windows update that changed power settings and have you tested the power supply voltage's with and without it being under load. Moreover, most people don't consider this, but in order to get a signal from your gpu to your monitor there has to be power running through the cable, so there's a slim possibility that the monitor is pulling to much power.

In addition, in order to rate a power supply you need to add up all of your hardware and then multiply that by 30%. another thing people forget to consider is the amps on the 12 volt rail. For example you can have a power supply of 750 watts and lets say it has 15 amps on the 12 volt rail, and your gpu needs 10 of thoughts amps, so when you add that to the rest of your system then your 750 watt isn't enough because it doesn't have the amp's to run properly. and yes the motherboard could be at fault. were you doing any air cooling on the vrm's, with it overclocked after you put the aio on. Because what will happen as your mosfests and/or vrm's get hotter your cpu will throttle, just as your describing. Moreover, the longer you let them run hot, the shorter the lifespan and can cause failure of your motherboard, cpu and your dim's.
how would i go about testing the power supply?

and the current aio on it has a fan built into the pump that is supposed to help cool down the vrams. the case also has 2 140mm noctua fans bringing in cool air so airflow across the board didnt ever seem like an issue to me
 

tytanium

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PROGRESS!!! and potential resolution!!! will play around with it some more. the BIOS update and new motherboard driver appears to be just from earlier this month. i updated both and booted Warzone back up. was back up to the 120fps in lobby. tried setting my lobby fps cap to 60 (which it wouldnt do during the issue) and it did indeed correct to 62fps. after i eat some dinner i will jump into a couple games and see what happens
 

HaizRail007

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there's a program called occt that you can monitor the voltages of all your hardware. plus you can use it to run a stress test as well. along with logging the information so you can view it at a later date. In addtion, you can use a digital power monitor meter to view your pc power draw such as this one from walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Power-Monitor-Meter-Usage-Saving-Energy-Watt-Amp-Volt-KWh-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Device-Equipment-System/677582484

However, you have to remember that overclocking shorten's the lifespan of a cpu and you have overclocked it for over a year 1/2 give or take, so it's still not out of the realm of possibility cpu failure do to overclocking. In addition a great way to tell if it's your vrm's and/or mosfests is to bring up a temperature monitoring software and bring up task manager or cupid and run handbrake and render some video or run prime 95 and watch the temps and the core clocks and if your vrm's rise and your cpu lowers then you have a failing motherboard. I hope this helps you.
 
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tytanium

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well damn. still noticing that after coming out of the game
there's a program called occt that you can monitor the voltages of all your hardware. plus you can use it to run a stress test as well. along with logging the information so you can view it at a later date. In addtion, you can use a digital power monitor meter to view your pc power draw such as this one from walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-...wPrHMFV5yxBM6E16YBx2m5uhHmEZLZlEaAqGcEALw_wcB

However, you have to remember that overclocking shorten's the lifespan of a cpu and you have overclocked it for over a year 1/2 give or take, so it's still not out of the realm of possibility cpu failure do to overclocking. In addition a great way to tell if it's your vrm's and/or mosfests is to bring up a temperature monitoring software and bring up task manager or cupid and run handbrake and render some video or run prime 95 and watch the temps and the core clocks and if your vrm's rise and your cpu lowers then you have a failing motherboard. I hope this helps you.
just noticed that i still have the issue of it reverting back to 4.3ghz after coming out of the game
 
it's warmer, so it's being supplied with more power more than likely, so something has changed in bios,was there a recent windows update that changed power settings and have you tested the power supply voltage's with and without it being under load. Moreover, most people don't consider this, but in order to get a signal from your gpu to your monitor there has to be power running through the cable, so there's a slim possibility that the monitor is pulling to much power.

In addition, in order to rate a power supply you need to add up all of your hardware and then multiply that by 30%. another thing people forget to consider is the amps on the 12 volt rail. For example you can have a power supply of 750 watts and lets say it has 15 amps on the 12 volt rail, and your gpu needs 10 of thoughts amps, so when you add that to the rest of your system then your 750 watt isn't enough because it doesn't have the amp's to run properly. and yes the motherboard could be at fault. were you doing any air cooling on the vrm's, with it overclocked after you put the aio on. Because what will happen as your mosfests and/or vrm's get hotter your cpu will throttle, just as your describing. Moreover, the longer you let them run hot, the shorter the lifespan and can cause failure of your motherboard, cpu and your dim's.
This whole diatribe LITERALLY is senseless. It makes ZERO sense at all. The only part of that whole post that isn't completely nonsense is the fact that running a CPU that is overheating is a bad idea, IF it is overheating, which there is absolutely NO evidence here, of that happening, at all. So you are making up solutions and assumptions, based on what? He certainly hasn't posted anything about having done thermal monitoring that determined there was an overheating condition or that there was a definite report of thermal throttling happening. Please, get facts, HARD facts, BEFORE making assumptions about what MIGHT be wrong with somebody's system.

If you don't know what's wrong based on data that was given, or can't make a really good guess, again, based on the data and past experience, then you should simply either ask for more information that might help to solve the issue or simply sit back and not just throw crap at the wall to see what sticks. Guessing and making (Usually, incorrect) assumptions almost always results in somebody either further damaging their hardware or spending money they didn't need to spend. Neither of which are things we like to see happen to ANY of our members or visitors.
 
started up the game again and its sitting at 4.4 instead of the 4.7 turbo i have enabled
Your CPU is NOT supposed to just "stay" at some specific frequency or "number". It is SUPPOSED to fluctuate, depending on how the power and BIOS settings are configured, and I have specific recommendations for all of those if you are interested.

The first thing you should do is download HWinfo, here: https://www.hwinfo.com/download/

and then install it. When you run it after installation, always choose the "sensors only" option and uncheck the "summary" option. It will give you accurate readings for basically every every sensor on the system that can be monitored. That will give you a good idea what the core behavior is doing, what the core voltage is doing, whether there is any throttling going on (It will LITERALLY tell you yes or no for thermal throttling) and tons of other data for graphics card, motherboard sensors, VRM, storage, etc.
 
started up the game again and its sitting at 4.4 instead of the 4.7 turbo i have enabled
4.4 GHz would be the more normal/ factory-spec applied all-core turbo..

I'd search your BIOS options for removing turbo-duration limits, and, perhaps try performance mode in power plans, although that never seemed necessary for my own 7700K, which happily runs at the XTU-specified/entered 4.7 GHz on all cores... (XTU allows quick access/override of all ordinary BIOS limits of clock speed vis-a-vis turbo max for x-amount of cores active, duration limits, etc...),
 

HaizRail007

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This whole diatribe LITERALLY is senseless. It makes ZERO sense at all. The only part of that whole post that isn't completely nonsense is the fact that running a CPU that is overheating is a bad idea, IF it is overheating, which there is absolutely NO evidence here, of that happening, at all. So you are making up solutions and assumptions, based on what? He certainly hasn't posted anything about having done thermal monitoring that determined there was an overheating condition or that there was a definite report of thermal throttling happening. Please, get facts, HARD facts, BEFORE making assumptions about what MIGHT be wrong with somebody's system.

If you don't know what's wrong based on data that was given, or can't make a really good guess, again, based on the data and past experience, then you should simply either ask for more information that might help to solve the issue or simply sit back and not just throw crap at the wall to see what sticks. Guessing and making (Usually, incorrect) assumptions almost always results in somebody either further damaging their hardware or spending money they didn't need to spend. Neither of which are things we like to see happen to ANY of our members or visitors.

Sir you need, to get your facts straight, I didn't tell him to go out and buy anything. And for your information all of what I have stated could be a contributing factor to his problem, that is why he needs to test his hardware, if his cpu is really fluctuating from 4.7 to 800 mhz under load then there is a issue, either with bios, power, heat, cpu or motherboard. and the best way to test it is hand brake and prime 95 because theses programs allow for 100% cpu load, while running task manager to view the cpu, In addition, programs such as hardware info has reported inaccurate readings in the past, this is why I'd use Overclock Checking Tool (occt), he not only can can check his voltages, but his temps and cpu watt usage among other aspects. Moreover, this is why I told him he should reset his bios to factory default and test, so he could rule out the cpu as being a problem. but from how he stated his question and his responses, it sounded as if he had a static overclock at 4.7, without using the turbo boost features etc. I'm here only trying to help the guy figure out his issue so he'll know whats up with his computer.

Gaming is great but games will allow the cpu to vary in speed, hand brake and prime 95 and memtest will not. I would run theses programs viewing task manager and occt and please, don't run prime 95 or hand brake or memtest at the same time. if you run's theses test's the problem will surface if there is one, and you will be able to narrow down the cause.
 
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Sir you need, to get your facts straight,
No. I literally DON'T need to "get my facts straight".

You on the other hand, LITERALLY need to get your facts straight, and maybe taking the time to actually learn a little something about how computers work, might be a good idea too because currently you are lacking even a basic understanding of them.

They are, to use the phrase AGAIN, literally DESIGNED TO fluctuate from around 800mhz to whatever the peak boost range is for that CPU model. So the fact that you say that behavior is a problem is all anybody needs to know, to know you are seriously clueless in this, and probably most, areas of expertise when it comes to computer systems.

Nobody with any substantial understanding of CPU behavior would have EVER made a comment like that. Period.
 

HaizRail007

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No. I literally DON'T need to "get my facts straight".

You on the other hand, LITERALLY need to get your facts straight, and maybe taking the time to actually learn a little something about how computers work, might be a good idea too because currently you are lacking even a basic understanding of them.

They are, to use the phrase AGAIN, literally DESIGNED TO fluctuate from around 800mhz to whatever the peak boost range is for that CPU model. So the fact that you say that behavior is a problem is all anybody needs to know, to know you are seriously clueless in this, and probably most, areas of expertise when it comes to computer systems.

Nobody with any substantial understanding of CPU behavior would have EVER made a comment like that. Period.

the cpu is only going to fluctuate when having turbo boost enabled, multi-core enhancement off and the cpu is not at a 100% load and having power saving function's enabled. However, if he has it under load and he has it at a static 4.8 and it still drops there's a problem. Furthermore, I have my i.t degree and it's clear to me you want to pick a fight. There's nothing wrong with testing to make sure it's not a cpu, motherboard or psu issue. he did say he updated his bios and his cpu down clocked to 4.3 instead of 4.8 I assume this was due to turbo boost or power saving mode.

This was the whole point of the thread and if you read every post you see this. his cpu was clocked at 4.8 and down clocked to 800 mhz while under load forcing his fps to suffer.

Now if he can rule out his psu then we know he has stable power. If he can rule out vrm heat, then we can rule out the thermal throttling as long as he has thermal throttling disabled in bios. that also, rules out the motherboard. but what none of that will do is rule out his cpu. he did state that he had it overclocked to 4.8 without issue since February 2019, this is 8/23/2020 and if he was running a static overclock without any down clocking power saving features enabled, then he has more than likely has fried his cpu. but if he has turbo boost enabled and the c states and thermal throttling enabled then that would explain it. if he has enough power and amps and if his motherboard vrm's isn't heating causing a down clock of the cpu and he has all the features disabled in bios that causes down clocking of the cpu and it stil occurs under 100% load, then it's his cpu dying from overclocking. Again, I'm trying to help the guy out, but if you have a problem with that then, sir, god help you, because I'm not going to sit here and play this game with you.
 
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tytanium

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Your CPU is NOT supposed to just "stay" at some specific frequency or "number". It is SUPPOSED to fluctuate, depending on how the power and BIOS settings are configured, and I have specific recommendations for all of those if you are interested.

The first thing you should do is download HWinfo, here: https://www.hwinfo.com/download/

and then install it. When you run it after installation, always choose the "sensors only" option and uncheck the "summary" option. It will give you accurate readings for basically every every sensor on the system that can be monitored. That will give you a good idea what the core behavior is doing, what the core voltage is doing, whether there is any throttling going on (It will LITERALLY tell you yes or no for thermal throttling) and tons of other data for graphics card, motherboard sensors, VRM, storage, etc.
have hwinfo installed. that is where i have been getting my temps and speeds from that i have mentioned so far. no temps looked high at all and core temps didnt go above 50 while gaming.

the other thing im realizing is that until this issue i have never before checked what speeds it has been running under load. until the fps drop everything was running great so i assumed it was running what it should be (i know bad me) so i really dont even know how long it has been downclocking to 4.4
 

HaizRail007

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have hwinfo installed. that is where i have been getting my temps and speeds from that i have mentioned so far. no temps looked high at all and core temps didnt go above 50 while gaming.

the other thing im realizing is that until this issue i have never before checked what speeds it has been running under load. until the fps drop everything was running great so i assumed it was running what it should be (i know bad me) so i really dont even know how long it has been downclocking to 4.4

Alright cpu's normally fluctuate depending on the load, and what your processing. Moreover, cpu's do this not only to converse power, but to keep the cpu from burning it's self up. The only time a cpu will run maxed out is when you are stress testing, or if you've bypass the safety protocols that allow it to down clock. That is not recommenced, due to the fact of failure. By reading your post I was under the impression that you had bypassed the safety protocols and what not allowing it to down clock. but this is a different scenario entirely.

the 8700K support's turbo boost 2.0, and what turbo boost 2.0 does is allows the cpu to boost to it's max on 1 to 2 cores, for what ever program you have loaded up, and once it has loaded up will down clock it's self to conserve power. it's normal for the 8700K to change it's speed depending on the load.

I've got a 7960x and it will fluctuate from 1.2 ghz to 4.4, now mine has turbo 3.0 standard turbo and multi-core enhancement.

Now standard turbo fluctuates for me between 1.6 to 3.7 ghz now if I enable turbo boost 3.0 it will boost 2 cores up to 4.4 Ghz.

Now if multicore enhancement is enabled all cores will preform at it's max speed of 4.4ghz but it will still down clock it's self to save power.

Moreover, if you turn off thermal throttling, you will get a increase in speed prime 95 and handbreak. mine with tt on lock's to 3.59 ghz and with tt off I get a full 4.4ghz. I hope this helps and god bless
 
the cpu is only going to fluctuate when having turbo boost enabled, multi-core enhancement off and the cpu is not at a 100% load and having power saving function's enabled.

Right, and this is exactly how it is RECOMMENDED to be configured. Only the uninitiated would set their CPU to run at only speeds between base clock and peak boost/OC.

However, if he has it under load and he has it at a static 4.8 and it still drops there's a problem.

Right, except that it doesn't matter what kind of configuration it is set to, static or otherwise, if the CPU is under a full load (Such as running Prime95 Small FFT which is a steady state load) then it should NOT ever drop down to anything less than what the peak boost/OC frequency is set to unless there is instability and an error causes a worker to drop out. However, GAMING, is NOT a steady state load and NO, it will not, ever, stay consistently at peak boost/OC frequency while playing games. It WILL fluctuate based on load, and on a per core basis depending on how the game is optimized and what exactly is currently happening on screen and behind the scenes. Games do NOT present full, all core, steady state loads. They present fluctuating work loads. Period.

Furthermore, I have my i.t degree and it's clear to me you want to pick a fight.

That literally means nothing. What "IT" degree or certification do you have? Because a basic CompTIA IT certification (Or something equivalent) is not the same as having a CompTIA A+ (Or something equivalent) certification, and both are only certifications, not degrees. Huge, giant, enormous world of different between a "degree" and a "certification" and 99% of people out there today as part of the working or non-working IT workforce are merely "certified", they do not have degrees. But even a very large number of people with degrees, are so inundated with dumbassery and ineptitude it's little wonder that our companies, organizations and infrastructures are so riddled with security problems or that there are major breaches weekly and daily.

I'm sure you're not one of those people, but coming in here and trying to sling the "I'm IT" bit, really doesn't go far. It's practically meaningless when it comes to knowledge of enthusiast hardware anyhow, as it's primarily an entirely different worldview and is often procedurally very different when it comes to diagnostic methodology. Surely, there are a lot of similarities, because hardware is hardware, but there are MANY differences as well.

I couldn't care less about "picking a fight", with you, or anybody else. I'm not here for that. I'm only here to make sure things stay within the guidelines and to correct misinformation, and occasionally (Or often) extend a helping hand where it's needed. If you post misinformation, whether intentionally or by mistake, rest assured that it's going to get hit up here. Every time.
 
Solution