[SOLVED] A few things to confirm with new PC

[ostrawma]

I recently finished my first build but there's a few things I need to ask.

1. The front fan that came with my Corsair 4000D case isn't working for whatever reason. I tried plugging it into all the different fan headers on the motherboard but still nothing. Am I to assume that it's just defective? Do I have to enable it in the BIOS?

2. I have the back exhaust fan plugged into the CPU_OPT header, while the 2 fans on my radiator are connected to the two headers from the pump. However, I still need to connect the 3-pin that's right next to the SATA cable. Is there a recommended fan header that I should connect it to, such as AIO_PUMP or CPU_FAN, and should I relocate any of the other fans such as the back fan to maybe CHA_FAN1?
Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z390-A, CPU cooler: Corsair iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT

3. I moved over my 6-year old GTX 980 and while its working properly, at only 60%, it hovers around 80 C and when idle, 50 C(though I figure this temp for idle is a bit normal). Is that expected for an aged GPU? I tried my best to clean out as much dust as I could before installing it.

Sorry if it seems like I'm asking for a lot. Just want to make sure my first build is working absolutely fine.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

I still need to connect the 3-pin that's right next to the SATA cable. Is there a recommended fan header that I should connect it to

the AIO's fans should be connected to the CPU_FAN header.
the AIO_PUMP headers can sometimes be stuck at 100%.

I have the back exhaust fan plugged into the CPU_OPT header

usually the CPU_OPT header just follows the settings for CPU_FAN,
so you wouldn't be able to manually set a separate fan curve for any fan connected there.

my 6-year old GTX 980 and while its working properly, at only 60%, it hovers around 80 C and when idle, 50 C

that is very warm for both idle and max load temperatures.
you should fill the front intake fan mounting points to have 3x front fans pulling cool air in.
and if the GPU is still hitting very high temps;
set a more aggressive fan curve for the GPU fans
and maybe even add a 4th fan directly under the GPU on the PSU shroud blowing into the GPU.

 

[Paperdoc]

The design of that Corsair iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT cooling system intends that the PUMP unit has several cables to connect to specific points in your system, and then the iCUE software utility you download always runs and takes over control of cooling of the CPU. The Pump unit has a wider connector you plug into a SATA power output connector from the PSU for power. It has a small cable ending in a common female 3-pin (with holes) fan connector that must go to the mobo CPU_FAN header. This has one function: it feeds the PUMP speed signal to that header, where it is monitored continually by the mobo for pump FAILURE. In a system like this, that pump is the most critical. If it fails to circulate liquid around the loop there will be NO heat removed from the CPU and it could overheat rapidly. On the other hand, if one of the rad fans fails, that only reduces the max heat removal rate at the rad, resulting at worst in a slow heating up of the CPU that will be detected and acted upon by other protection systems. There are two output (male, with pins) connectors from the pump for plugging in the rad fans, and their speeds are controlled by the iCUE software. Lastly there is a cable to connect between a socket on the pump and a mobo USB2 header. This is how the iCUE software running on the mobo can communicate with the pulp and its other components to monitor and control them. You use iCUE to do your own observation and adjustments to this cooling system for the CPU.

Your mobo has two systems to control temperatures by heat removal via fan speed control. One is dedicated to the CPU and is guided by a temp sensor inside the CPU chip. In your situation that temp signal is used by the iCUE software as it takes over CPU temperature control. The second mobo system operates similarly, but it uses a different temp sensor built into the mobo, and it controls fans connected to the CHA_FAN headers. So ALL case ventilation fans ought to be connected to those headers.

The case came with two identical fans. The rear one works, but should be changed to a CHA_FAN header. Once you prove that it works that way, try connecting the front fan to the SAME header. If it still does not work, then it is defective.

 

[ostrawma]

Okay so apparently the front fan does work. I'm just an idiot for not noticing it actually was spinning.

that is very warm for both idle and max load temperatures.
you should fill the front intake fan mounting points to have 3x front fans pulling cool air in.
and if the GPU is still hitting very high temps;
set a more aggressive fan curve for the GPU fans
and maybe even add a 4th fan directly under the GPU on the PSU shroud blowing into the GPU.

I do plan on implementing 3 front fans but I'm debating on which brand. Initially, I was looking at Corsair for the RGB but now, I'm considering be quiet! and Noctua for their quality and noise. Is there any brand you or anyone would recommend?

Your mobo has two systems to control temperatures by heat removal via fan speed control. One is dedicated to the CPU and is guided by a temp sensor inside the CPU chip. In your situation that temp signal is used by the iCUE software as it takes over CPU temperature control. The second mobo system operates similarly, but it uses a different temp sensor built into the mobo, and it controls fans connected to the CHA_FAN headers. So ALL case ventilation fans ought to be connected to those headers.

So if the motherboard controls the fans, I don't have to worry about how efficiently they're running? I'm pretty new to this stuff so at the moment, I'm not really looking into manually changing fan rpm to suit my needs. Just as long as they're working well enough. And when I get 3 front fans, is it better/safer to use a 2-way splitter than a 3-way? In total, I'd be using 4 fans and there's only 2 CHA_FAN headers on the motherboard so...

 

[taeioum]

3. I moved over my 6-year old GTX 980 and while its working properly, at only 60%, it hovers around 80 C and when idle, 50 C(though I figure this temp for idle is a bit normal). Is that expected for an aged GPU? I tried my best to clean out as much dust as I could before installing it.

Sounds like the thermal paste needs reapplying. It's probably old and dried out. If you have any thermal paste laying around, try looking up a video on how to disassemble your graphics card. If you're lucky, 4 screws is all it takes to take off the entire cooling block.

 

[Paperdoc]

Re fans and Splitters. In most cases you will have no problem with three fans on one header.

Details to consider so you can be sure. Almost all mobo fan headers can deliver to their total load a max of 1.0 A current. So look at the specs for the fans you have already - either on their website, or maybe on their fan labels. Then look up same for the fans you plan to buy. Most current fans will draw from 0.10 to 0.25 A max each. So three on one header is quite OK.

A fan header can deal with the speed signal sent back to it from ONE fan only. So any Splitter or Hub will only send back to its header the speed signal from ONE of its fans, and ignore the rest completely - you will never "see" the speeds of the "others" anywhere. This has NO impact on ability to control the fan speeds. It DOES impact the headers' secondary function: monitoring the fan speed signal for FAILURE. It cannot monitor a signal it never gets. So when you use a Splitter or Hub, it is up to YOU to check from time to time that all your fans still are working.

Splitters and Hubs are different devices, BUT many makers mix the terms and use them incorrectly. A SPLITTER is a simple device that merely connects all of its fans in parallel to the header pins, so all the fans get the same signals and all MUST draw their power from the header. Thus the header's amp limit applies. The Splitter has one input "arm" to connect to the mobo header, and two or more output "arms" for plugging in your fans, but NO other connections. By the way, you will find it hard to find 3-pin Splitters now because you CAN use 4-pin a Splitter with either type of fan. Just do NOT mix fan designs (3-pin and 4-pin) on the SAME header and Splitter.

A HUB is different because it gets power for all its fans from the PSU, and does NOT draw any from the header. Thus the 1.0 A limit of the header does not apply. It can do this because, in addition to the two types of "arms" a splitter has, it has a third "arm" that must plug into a power output (SATA or 4-pin Molex) connector from the PSU. A Hub has a different kind of limiting factor, though. Because of its design it MUST have a PWM signal from the host header which it will distribute to its fans, but then the fans you connect to it MUST be of that new 4-pin PWM design. (There are a very few Hubs that avoid this set of limits.) A Hub thus can NOT control the speed of 3-pin fans - you need to use a Splitter with 3-pin fans.

Regarding fan control, the pre-programmed systems (one for CPU cooling, the other for case cooling) generally do the job for you very well. Each has a pre-set target temperature for its temp sensor, and a set of values for fan speed for several measured temperatures. Each constantly monitors its respective temp sensor and alters its fan's speed to produce the airflow to keep the measured temp on target. They require no attention from you. There are, however, a few items of configuration details for EACH fan header (they are set individually) to check on in BIOS Setup when you first get your system started. All these have default settings, but some of them may not be exactly right for your setup. The main items to check for each are:

1. Type of fan design: 3-pin (voltage controlled or DC), or 4-pin PWM type.
2. Which temperature sensor to use. The CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT will always use the sensor inside the CPU chip,and may not even offer you a choice. The CHA_FAN or SYS_FAN headers sometimes offer you that choice or the general motherboard sensor (use this one), and sometimes a few other special-purpose extra sensors you probably don't need.
3. Fan Profile: that is, the strategy of how to decide what speed to run for what measured temp. Use the pre-programmed Standard or Automatic to start. Other common options: Quiet (fixed low speed), Turbo (fixed full speed), and Manual or Custom (you set your own "curve" of speed versus temp).

Your mobo manual will tell you details of how to get into and out of BIOS Setup for these, and describe the fan header configuration options. But BIOS Setup only operates as a start-up option and cannot be used when you are actually using your computer. Most mobos come with a CD of drivers and utilities that also includes an application utility that runs under Windows so you CAN use it to observe your system and make adjustments during normal use. The screens include access to cooling fan control systems. This is even easier than BIOS Setup.

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

I do plan on implementing 3 front fans but I'm debating on which brand...I'm considering be quiet! and Noctua for their quality and noise.

the be quiet! Silent Wings 3 and the Noctua iPPC are some of the best options available.
the be quiet! Silent Wings 3 High-Speed PWM being my choice for case fans, the Noctua NF iPPC-3000 PWM for radiator or tower cooler fans.

I'd be using 4 fans and there's only 2 CHA_FAN headers on the motherboard so...

your rear exhaust fan can use one CHA_FAN header.
for the front 3 intake fans(and one under the GPU if you choose), i would go for a nice fan hub that offers 4-pin PWM headers and uses the second CHA_FAN header to regulate their speeds.
this way you can configure one fan speed curve profile for the rear and a separate profile for the front.
you will need to use identical fans connected to the hub or it will not properly determine their RPM and will not be able to accurately communicate their speed to\from the motherboard.

regarding your GPU temps\cooling;
i would NOT reapply thermal paste until 100% verifying that as the issue.
many users try to replace the existing thermal pads with regular paste and find much worse temperatures as a result.
the manufacturer's pads are sometimes a specific thickness and when applying paste in it's place there is not sufficient contact due to the paste's low viscosity and it spreading too thin.
you would need to research if that may be the case with your particular card before attempting.