Question Advice for buying a desktop PC ?

Jun 4, 2025
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Hello , i`m trying to look buying a desktop pc for gaming / streaming .
I am actually on a laptop gaming, it is a very good one , it supports the games i play and the streaming , but the problem it's the heat(i can cook eggs on it) and the sound of fans .
Actual configuration : Ryzen 7 5800H 3,20 GHz / Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 8gb / 16 gb ram / SSD 1tb Win11 Home

I am looking for kind of same configuration and i have a budget also 1000e-1500e so i was looking for this pc link
Do you guys think it will be ok and it will support ?
It will be better to built one from 0 ? I`m kind of new at this for this i will prefer to buy it already done .


Thanks for your answers and i hope i post in the right place !
Wish you a great day
 
It is an okay system (for 1080p gaming at medium to high graphics settings) and will perform better than your laptop (overall), but not at the highest levels of modern gaming performance. Of course, that level is more expensive.

I didn't see any information regarding the make/model of the PSU. That could be an issue if not a quality component.

Do you already have a display to attach to a desktop system?

We have a template you can use to ask for build advice: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-new-build-or-upgrade-advice.528714/

Most on this site will recommend building your own system.
 
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Do you guys think it will be ok and it will support ?
Well, RTX 3080 Mobile is = to RTX 5060 Ti desktop GPU. So, if you go with RTX 4060, you will get reduced performance compared to your laptop.

It will be better to built one from 0 ? I`m kind of new at this for this i will prefer to buy it already done .
If you want the best price to performance ratio, then DIY is the only way. Meaning that you buy all components individually and assemble everything yourself + OS installation.

With prebuilts, you will always pay extra since someone else has assembled the build for you, installed OS (sometimes optional) and with prebuilts, the store from you bought it, remains as customer support for you. For DIY, you, yourself are the customer support for your build.

As far as prebuilts go, i suggest getting one from StarForge,
link: https://starforgesystems.com/

They sell complete builds at many price brackets. So, look over your budget and decide which one to go for.
You can even contact them for further assistance before selection/purchase.

While Starforge is US based, they do ship in EU;
Starforge is proud to offer our gaming PCs to the USA, Canada, EU member countries, Australia, New Zealand, the UK and Norway.

E.g Horizon III Pro would be in the middle of your budget,
link: https://starforgesystems.com/products/horizon-iii-pro

GPU in there RX 7700 XT, is ~30% better than your RTX 3080 Mobile.
Comparison: https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3080-mobile-vs-Radeon-RX-7700-XT

Horizon III Elite costs a bit more, but also provides better performance (performance is listed on the webpage).



Now, as of what makes StarForge in general good, is that they are one of the very few prebuilt system sellers, who actually assemble the build properly, without minor or major issues.

GamersNexus is buying prebuilt PCs incognito and then making in-depth reviews of them, so that people know which prebuilt company to look for and which one to avoid like a plague.
Here is their YT playlist of prebuilt reviews: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsuVSmND84QuM2HKzG7ipbIbE_R5EnCLM

StarForge prebuilt has been on the spotlight 2 times now. 1st time there were some loose screw issues but 2nd time around, all was in order and build was one of the very few properly built.


Another thing that i like about StarForge is that they openly state what make/model PSU comes with the prebuilt PC. This is actually very rare to see, since most prebuilt PC brands only list PSU's wattage. Sometimes even efficiency but that's it. This means that PSU is often the cheaped out component inside the prebuilt PC. Because when PSU is crap, no-one is going to openly state the make/model. But if PSU would be actually good, stating the make/model actually helps to sell the PC.

Prime example; random Asus prebuilt,
specs: https://rog.asus.com/desktops/mid-tower/rog-strix-g13ch-series/spec/

If you look at PSU specs, all it says, is wattage and efficiency. Nothing more. If same info would be said about CPU or GPU, the listing would say;
CPU - Intel Core i7 (16 cores)
GPU - Nvidia (8GB VRAM)
Yet, there's in-depth info about CPU and GPU.

Actually, the prebuilt you're looking at, there 0 info about what kind of PSU it comes with. And that is a red flag for me.

But with StarForge PC and the Horizon III Pro i linked, you can see on the tin, that the PSU it comes with, is MSI MAG A650GL.
That PSU is Tier B unit.
PSU Tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...aSpZRB6Xt6JWkc/htmlview?pli=1&gid=1973454078#

While i'd like to see Tier A or A+ PSU in the prebuilt, it would jack up the overall price and only very few people are willing to pay money for great quality PSU (including yours truly). While most people love to cheap out on PSU.

But with PSUs, there is a catch:
Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU! Also, never buy used PSU either.
 
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From a performance point of view, the two are comparable.

Pre-built pc's are not designed to be upgraded. In particular, they will use generic power supplies of minimum power.
The most likely upgrade for you in the future would be a better graphics card, and that would likely entail a psu replacement.

The second red flag to me is the use of a aio cooler where air would be perfectly fine.
aio coolers have a limited life span before they need replacement. Think 5 years.

If you need service, do you have to send the whole thing back?

You could do worse.
If you have a pc shop near by, consider specifying the parts yourself and have them assemble it for you.
 
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Just to add some context to the GPU discussions others are having.

https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-4060-vs-Nvidia-RTX-3080-Laptop/4150vsm1443565

In practical use, the differences (relatively minor from a benchmarking perspective overall) will hardly be noticeable.

The desktop CPU will also outperform the mobile CPU a fair amount, overall.

Both the CPU and GPU of a desktop system, if properly cooled, should run much cooler than a gaming laptop.

As discussed above, there are more factors involved that just comparing one component to another.
 
It is an okay system (for 1080p gaming at medium to high graphics settings) and will perform better than your laptop (overall), but not at the highest levels of modern gaming performance. Of course, that level is more expensive.

I didn't see any information regarding the make/model of the PSU. That could be an issue if not a quality component.

Do you already have a display to attach to a desktop system?

We have a template you can use to ask for build advice: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-new-build-or-upgrade-advice.528714/

Most on this site will recommend building your own system.

Hello . Yes i got a display that i use for my laptop actually display , bought it on amazon .

I'm not a big gamer i play only WoT and cs2 , so for the moment i`m searching only to use it some years before i will build one when i`ll have the posibility . But yeah it should do the games and the streamer also .
I should ask in the shop for the PSU ?

Thank you !

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

@geofelt From a performance point of view, the two are comparable.

Pre-built pc's are not designed to be upgraded. In particular, they will use generic power supplies of minimum power.
The most likely upgrade for you in the future would be a better graphics card, and that would likely entail a psu replacement.

The second red flag to me is the use of a aio cooler where air would be perfectly fine.
aio coolers have a limited life span before they need replacement. Think 5 years.

If you need service, do you have to send the whole thing back?

You could do worse.
If you have a pc shop near by, consider specifying the parts yourself and have them assemble it for you.




So as i understand , if i buy a prebuild pc it will be impossible or difficult to change what is inside ?
I should look for a pc without aio cooler , and just with air ?
I think yes if i have a problem i bring it back to the shop or send it on service . From them i bought also the laptop , but i didn't have any issue with .

I will try and search for some shop if they could assamble it .
Thank you
 
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Hello . Yes i got a display that i use for my laptop actually display , bought it on amazon .

I'm not a big gamer i play only WoT and cs2 , so for the moment i`m searching only to use it some years before i will build one when i`ll have the posibility . But yeah it should do the games and the streamer also .
I should ask in the shop for the PSU ?
That would be good information to know, as several others indicated as well.
 
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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core OEM/Tray Processor (€219.55 @ Azerty)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (€42.90 @ Amazon Belgium)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B650-E WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (€144.90 @ Amazon Belgium)
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (€109.90 @ Azerty)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€119.90 @ Azerty)
Video Card: PowerColor Hellhound OC Radeon RX 9070 16 GB Video Card (€669.00 @ Megekko)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case (€96.89 @ Alternate Belgium)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2024) 850 W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€129.90 @ Azerty)
Total: €1532.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-06-04 17:30 CEST+0200
 
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The 3080 mobile is slower than a 3070 desktop, so it is not equal to a 5060ti desktop.
TechPowerUp says otherwise,
link: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-3080-mobile.c3684

Check the Relative Performance chart. There, RTX 3080 Mobile is equal to RTX 5060 Ti 8GB.

I should ask in the shop for the PSU ?
Well, you can ask but when the PSU is low quality unit, then what? I don't think they are going to replace it for you. Unless you pay markup for the better PSU (given that they even have any good choice when it comes to the PSUs).

, if i buy a prebuild pc it will be impossible or difficult to change what is inside ?
No.

Vice-versa. Most prebuilts are following the standard ATX components and each component can be freely replaced. That is, when you don't buy a prebuilt that uses a lot of proprietary components (like Dell prebuilts are, including their Alienware lineup).

But the thing is, when you replace the components in the prebuilt, you'll loose the warranty PC had, since for most prebuilt PCs, the warranty covers the whole PC, not just individual component. Though, you need to read the warranty policy to know for sure, but most of the times, when you have issue with single component, you have to send the whole thing (entire PC) back.

On one instance, it is nice, since you don't have to deal with disassembly and component replacement by yourself. On other hand, it is pointless to send the whole PC back when just one component (e.g SSD in it) goes bad during warranty period.

In that sense, DIY is better since then, individual components have their own warranty and you can remove and RMA individual components on your own. Also, individual components, for the most part, have far longer warranty than the 2 year warranty you could get with the prebuilt (e.g Noctua and Arctic have 6 year warranty, good quality PSU has 10 year warranty, Samsung SSDs have 5 year warranty etc).

I should look for a pc without aio cooler , and just with air ?
As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where former king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that conductive liquids and electronics don't mix.
 
I think it will just depend on where you look this says a 4060 is better @1080p and the 3080m is better at higher resolutions. I find it strange.
EDIT could be the memory bus

https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-3080-mobile-vs-GeForce-RTX-4060#gaming
The very same site shows RTX 2070 to be equal to RTX 3080 Mobile,
link: https://technical.city/en/video/GeForce-RTX-2070-vs-GeForce-RTX-3080-mobile#benchmarks

At least in the beginning. When looking for benchmark results, RTX 3080 Mobile beats RTX 2070 in almost all benchmarks (passmark, 3Dmark, specviewperf12), on average 20% better, except in Cloud Gate.
But in the same time, average FPS count is somehow lower for RTX 3080 Mobile than for RTX 2070.
Though, when looking FPS in popular games and presets at different resos, the i see RTX 3080 Mobile to have, overall, more FPS than RTX 2070.
Go figure.

Makes one to ask, how trustworthy the Techincal city site truly is. 🤔

I view TechPowerUp trustworthy due to their in-depth reviews and their databases (namely GPU database).
 
Hello again . So .. i couldn't find the model for the PSU of exactly the pc that i was looking ... but i was in shop and saw some pc's .

psu 550w or psu550 so .. it's kind of same configuration but for this one we can see the psu and both are air cooled. Now ... i have 3 more questions ...
How i will know the quality of the PSU ? and somebody just told me that i should made the decision for Intel , cuz if i take again AMD well , the heat will be the same .
 
How i will know the quality of the PSU ?
Well, looking at PSU's label and trying to identify the unit inside.

The logo on PSU at 1st glance reminded me Cougar. But it is not that. Also, that logo is similar to Gigabyte Aorus logo. And it also looks like mirrored logo of OCZ Fatal1ty. But it is none of them.

It took me solid 1+h to find what that PSU make/model exactly is (holy hell.... :mouais: ).

Did find the closest match, with essentially identical label, except the logo on it;
Performax Gaming 550W, PG-550W01.

performax-pg-550w01-80-14-cm-box-psu-guc-kaynagi-550-w-kcm50173158-1-8584ac9de57a41548df5a274f8f72423.jpg

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://cdn03.ciceksepeti.com/cicek...173158-1-8584ac9de57a41548df5a274f8f72423.jpg

Performax PSU lineup (in Turkish): https://www.performaxgaming.com/urun-kategori/guc-kaynaklari/

Either the PSU in your prebuilt is also Performax (due to the identical label), or the Chinese factory where those crap quality PSUs are produced, uses the same label with slight difference, by printing another brand name on the label, while the innards are the same crap.

Other than the specs page, i could not find any other info about Performax PSUs. They seem to be Turkey exclusive brand. (Also, never heard of that PSU brand before.)
No good info about PSUs = red flags raised. That, and if you look the +12V rail, it has 37A, which makes 444W. But somehow, even their math is wrong, by listing it 440W. And in no way on earth, the PSU is 550W. One can not magically combine PSU rails to increase it's max output wattage. A true crap quality PSU. :vomi:

I would not buy any PC with that kind of junk PSU.
So, your options are:
1. Buy that prebuilt with junk PSU, DO NOT turn the PC on. Rip out that junk. Buy new, good quality PSU and install it.
2. Buy a proper prebuilt from StarForge, where PSU can easily be confirmed and let them to ship the PC to you in EU.

Option #1 downside is; that you most likely loose any warranty your prebuilt has. But if you turn that PC on with that junk powering it, then i only send you my condolences. 🪦 Because with that junk of a PSU, it is just matter of time, when the PSU goes "pop", releases magic smoke and fries everything it is connected to.

This here is actually a great example why prebuilt PCs doesn't list PSU specs. Since PSU in it is complete crap. And if people would find it out, no-one would be buying those prebuilt PCs. Only thanks to my hard work and considerable time spent, we found out the hidden truth about those prebuilts you're looking at.

and somebody just told me that i should made the decision for Intel , cuz if i take again AMD well , the heat will be the same .
Completely depends on the CPU in question.

But overall;
Intel Core Ultra 200-series? If so, waste of money. You'll get FAR better price-to-performance ratio with AMD Ryzen 9000-series.
Intel 12th, 13th, 14th gen? Older CPUs with firmware issues (CPUs die on their own over time, except when installing latest BIOS). Also hot running CPUs. Even then, you'll get better price-to-performance with AMD Ryzen 7000-series. Heck, even AMD Ryzen 5000-series would do, despite their age.
 
Well, looking at PSU's label and trying to identify the unit inside.

The logo on PSU at 1st glance reminded me Cougar. But it is not that. Also, that logo is similar to Gigabyte Aorus logo. And it also looks like mirrored logo of OCZ Fatal1ty. But it is none of them.

It took me solid 1+h to find what that PSU make/model exactly is (holy hell.... :mouais: ).

Did find the closest match, with essentially identical label, except the logo on it;
Performax Gaming 550W, PG-550W01.

performax-pg-550w01-80-14-cm-box-psu-guc-kaynagi-550-w-kcm50173158-1-8584ac9de57a41548df5a274f8f72423.jpg

Direct link if image doesn't load: https://cdn03.ciceksepeti.com/cicek...173158-1-8584ac9de57a41548df5a274f8f72423.jpg

Performax PSU lineup (in Turkish): https://www.performaxgaming.com/urun-kategori/guc-kaynaklari/

Either the PSU in your prebuilt is also Performax (due to the identical label), or the Chinese factory where those crap quality PSUs are produced, uses the same label with slight difference, by printing another brand name on the label, while the innards are the same crap.

Other than the specs page, i could not find any other info about Performax PSUs. They seem to be Turkey exclusive brand. (Also, never heard of that PSU brand before.)
No good info about PSUs = red flags raised. That, and if you look the +12V rail, it has 37A, which makes 444W. But somehow, even their math is wrong, by listing it 440W. And in no way on earth, the PSU is 550W. One can not magically combine PSU rails to increase it's max output wattage. A true crap quality PSU. :vomi:

I would not buy any PC with that kind of junk PSU.
So, your options are:
1. Buy that prebuilt with junk PSU, DO NOT turn the PC on. Rip out that junk. Buy new, good quality PSU and install it.
2. Buy a proper prebuilt from StarForge, where PSU can easily be confirmed and let them to ship the PC to you in EU.

Option #1 downside is; that you most likely loose any warranty your prebuilt has. But if you turn that PC on with that junk powering it, then i only send you my condolences. 🪦 Because with that junk of a PSU, it is just matter of time, when the PSU goes "pop", releases magic smoke and fries everything it is connected to.

This here is actually a great example why prebuilt PCs doesn't list PSU specs. Since PSU in it is complete crap. And if people would find it out, no-one would be buying those prebuilt PCs. Only thanks to my hard work and considerable time spent, we found out the hidden truth about those prebuilts you're looking at.


Completely depends on the CPU in question.

But overall;
Intel Core Ultra 200-series? If so, waste of money. You'll get FAR better price-to-performance ratio with AMD Ryzen 9000-series.
Intel 12th, 13th, 14th gen? Older CPUs with firmware issues (CPUs die on their own over time, except when installing latest BIOS). Also hot running CPUs. Even then, you'll get better price-to-performance with AMD Ryzen 7000-series. Heck, even AMD Ryzen 5000-series would do, despite their age.



I`m really sorry that you lost a lot of time searching that 😀 . Well now i am more lost than before !
Well now i really don't know what i should do .

Thanks for your time and your answers ! I really appreciate it
 
I`m really sorry that you lost a lot of time searching that 😀
Well, i actually find this kind of investigative journalism interesting. :) Why else would i spend a solid hour searching a needle in a haystack. :cheese: (Unless i'm a crazy person :pt1cable:, which some may call me.) 🤔
But i digress.

Well now i really don't know what i should do .
I gave you two good options. Another option would be looking for 3rd local PC shop that sells prebuilt PCs and ask them what make and model PSU the prebuilt comes with.

But there's always a DIY option, by buying all components separately and assembling the PC yourself (aka the "true" way). :) It isn't hard actually, since we can help out in terms of guidance and there are in-depth guides to install Win as well. Or if you prefer GNU/Linux distro (cost is 0), then there are guides for those as well.
 
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For DIY, something like this perhaps:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor (€229.19 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Royal Knight 120 80.45 CFM CPU Cooler (€35.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: MSI X870 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (€275.39 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL36 Memory (€81.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 9100 PRO 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€165.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: MSI GAMING OC GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 16 GB Video Card (€506.79 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case: MSI MAG FORGE 100R ATX Mid Tower Case (€62.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Focus GX V4 ATX 3 (2024) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€131.33 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €1488.39

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-06-07 01:59 CEST+0200


All parts are from Amazon.de for international shipping within EU (i've ordered stuff from Amazon.de before, despite me not living in Germany but elsewhere in EU).

With DIY, you get the best price-to-performance ratio and can choose your individual components.

For time being, i put together solid mid-tier build with latest components.
Like R5 9600X CPU, DDR5 RAM (32GB in total), RTX 5060 Ti 16GB GPU. Samsung Pro 9100 PCI-E Gen5 SSD (1TB). MSI MoBo (with good 14+2+1 VRM phases). MSI Gaming GPU (great cooling and 0 noise under 60C temps). MSI PC case (since choosing a PC case is personal choice, feel free to switch it out). One of the best CPU air coolers. And all that is powered by good quality PSU from Seasonic. ATX 3.x PSU, 10 year warranty, 80+ Gold efficiency.

You can take it as a guideline if you plan to go DIY route. Or buy the very same components.
I didn't include OS, since i don't know if you want to go with Win or GNU/Linux distro.

Oh, since build has RTX 5060 Ti 16GB, GPU would be a bit better than your laptop RTX 3080 Mobile. But since CPU is much better + more and faster RAM, you'd get performance uplift still.
 
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For DIY, something like this perhaps:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor (€229.19 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Royal Knight 120 80.45 CFM CPU Cooler (€35.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: MSI X870 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (€275.39 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL36 Memory (€81.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 9100 PRO 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€165.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: MSI GAMING OC GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 16 GB Video Card (€506.79 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case: MSI MAG FORGE 100R ATX Mid Tower Case (€62.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Focus GX V4 ATX 3 (2024) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€131.33 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €1488.39

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-06-07 01:59 CEST+0200


All parts are from Amazon.de for international shipping within EU (i've ordered stuff from Amazon.de before, despite me not living in Germany but elsewhere in EU).

With DIY, you get the best price-to-performance ratio and can choose your individual components.

For time being, i put together solid mid-tier build with latest components.
Like R5 9600X CPU, DDR5 RAM (32GB in total), RTX 5060 Ti 16GB GPU. Samsung Pro 9100 PCI-E Gen5 SSD (1TB). MSI MoBo (with good 14+2+1 VRM phases). MSI Gaming GPU (great cooling and 0 noise under 60C temps). MSI PC case (since choosing a PC case is personal choice, feel free to switch it out). One of the best CPU air coolers. And all that is powered by good quality PSU from Seasonic. ATX 3.x PSU, 10 year warranty, 80+ Gold efficiency.

You can take it as a guideline if you plan to go DIY route. Or buy the very same components.
I didn't include OS, since i don't know if you want to go with Win or GNU/Linux distro.

Oh, since build has RTX 5060 Ti 16GB, GPU would be a bit better than your laptop RTX 3080 Mobile. But since CPU is much better + more and faster RAM, you'd get performance uplift still.


Yeah i think i will wait a bit and i will do it myself in that case. At least i will be sure what i put inside 😀

Thanks a lot for your time !

Wish you a great day !
 
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Well, RTX 3080 Mobile is = to RTX 5060 Ti desktop GPU. So, if you go with RTX 4060, you will get reduced performance compared to your laptop.
3080 mobile is more like a 4060 then it is anything like a 5060 ti. The 3080 mobile is roughly 30-40% slower than the 5060 ti and about 10% faster than a 4060. Techpowerup never actually reviewed a 3080 laptop as far as I can tell, so I have no understanding for their basis of saying its anywhere near a 5060 ti...
 
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