After Burner Lock On Light

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My upright After Burner's Lock On light is constantly on. From tracing
wires, I see that they plug into a board with an SSR labeled as
839-0051.

Could this board be bad? Or could the problem be something else? Also,
if the board is bad, are there websites where parts like this can be
purchased?

Thanks in advance.

 

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I think SSR stands for solid state relay. That would be a scr or a
triac. That would be the large transistor type component. That is
probably your problem. Ted

 

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>My upright After Burner's Lock On light is constantly on.

Either what triggers the solid state relay is toast, or the relay
itself is. Power down the SSR and ohmmeter the contacts that attach to
the bulb and ground (or supply) and see if the unit itself is shorted.

You can retro any SSR in this app if you know what to do.

Kirb

 

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Thank you all.

There are 2 of these boards in this unit, one to control the "Lock On"
light and one to control the unit's upper "Danger" lights. So, I just
swapped the boards to see if the problem stayed with the lights or
followed the board. The problem followed the board, so I'm fairly sure
that the SSR board is bad.

Kirb, you mentioned that I could retro any SSR board into this unit.
Are these parts known as SSR boards? What do I look for when I'm
browsing for this part?

Sorry for the newbie questions, but thats what newbies do.

Thank you again.

kirb wrote:
> >My upright After Burner's Lock On light is constantly on.
>
> Either what triggers the solid state relay is toast, or the relay
> itself is. Power down the SSR and ohmmeter the contacts that attach
to
> the bulb and ground (or supply) and see if the unit itself is
shorted.
>
> You can retro any SSR in this app if you know what to do.
>
> Kirb

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

> Kirb, you mentioned that I could retro any SSR board into this unit.
> Are these parts known as SSR boards? What do I look for when I'm
> browsing for this part?

Glad you figured out that the SSR is bad. Now it's time to figure out
the particulars.

You don't really need a solid state relay, you could use a regular
magnetic relay, but the action might not be as quick and they can be
noisy.

Solid state types are fairly simple. You need to figure out what
voltage turns the unit on, what voltage it is driving for the lamp, and
about how much current it will be using. Buy a solid state relay that
will work for that application.

Sometimes you can get a brand or part number right off the old relay
and solder a new one (or however it is mounted).

Example- a solder mount SSR made by Crydom and sold by Mouser.com has a
part number of 558-lc241 and powers 12-280Vac at .025-1.5 amps for the
bulb driver and is turned on by 4-10 Vdc. Cost- under $7

Kirb

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

thank you. You have been most helpful. I think I have found the part
and am just waiting for a price.


kirb wrote:
> > Kirb, you mentioned that I could retro any SSR board into this
unit.
> > Are these parts known as SSR boards? What do I look for when I'm
> > browsing for this part?
>
> Glad you figured out that the SSR is bad. Now it's time to figure out
> the particulars.
>
> You don't really need a solid state relay, you could use a regular
> magnetic relay, but the action might not be as quick and they can be
> noisy.
>
> Solid state types are fairly simple. You need to figure out what
> voltage turns the unit on, what voltage it is driving for the lamp,
and
> about how much current it will be using. Buy a solid state relay that
> will work for that application.
>
> Sometimes you can get a brand or part number right off the old relay
> and solder a new one (or however it is mounted).
>
> Example- a solder mount SSR made by Crydom and sold by Mouser.com has
a
> part number of 558-lc241 and powers 12-280Vac at .025-1.5 amps for
the
> bulb driver and is turned on by 4-10 Vdc. Cost- under $7
>
> Kirb