(Again) Led lighting install in gaming rig problem

Isleepalot

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Apr 21, 2016
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No one answered my thread and it is not even on the first page any more so I am posting this again, please do not get mad moderators. Is this a so difficult problem that no one knows?

Ok, I am trying to get led lights in my gaming rig but I have run into some problems. I ordered these lights from amazon.
Airgoo® Computer RGBW LED Light Strip with Remote control - for PC Computer Mid Full Tower Case Gaming Computer Case - Fit for NZXT ThermalTake Corsai

My build, just in case you need to know, is this.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/D8fsbv
Anyways, There is no way to connect it to the plug that plugs into the molex connector that then goes to the psu. So I heard you can snip the wire and solder them to the right wires. So I thought I would at least test to see if the lights work by connecting them to some batteries. Had a brain fart there because batteries are dc where as the led lights are ac so I have to just connect to psu. My bad there. But I am pretty sure these are 12v led light but I do not know how many volts the molex connector that plugs into the psu is. If it is more I will need a resister but how big and how to connect it into the circuit? Also, will I need to connect all 4 wires or just positive and negative along with electrical tap around the solder points? If I do this, will they burn out without a resister or with a resister? If they do burn out, will it start a fire? I looked into the psu manual but it is not helpful. I do not understand why led install in so difficult. It should be as easy as plug the led lights into a plug that goes to the psu and then take the tape off and apply to case and there I go. So I clearly need a little guidance. Thanks in advance.
 
Solution
9V+9V=18V, it is far too much for 12V also if you have + and - mixed up, due to nature of LED's, they do nothing.
Also 12V is 12V so no 9V or 18V.
Looking at pictures, the +12V is +12V and the color of leds to be on (and their intensity) is based on the RGB connectors, which are -
add in resistor in series to that and you would dim said led color from full (zero ohms) to off (pretty much like 20kohm)
So if you would want it to be red, you would connect +12V to +12V and - to R
There is nothing really wrong with Do it Yourself approach as far as connectors go. problems usually appear after few weeks to months if care was not taken to insulate the connection points. (tape dries up, gets loose, +12V goes to case and either trips PSU...
Well, when I do try to plug it in to the molex connecter that plugs into the molex from the psu, it is not tight at all and just falls out easy. Does not like snap in or anything. It just falls out. I do not have a white converter thing. So how do I modify it?
 
In the amazon image there is a white adapter. Since you dont have this the kit wont even work properly, as the remote is necessary to initiate the LEDs as well as their color.
It sounds like an extremely poorly made unit if the molex adapter wont stay connected. I would purchase something proper rather than attempt to modify it, considering it likely still wont work without the ir receiver.
 
I thought it said in the description it will work remote control and connecting it directly to psu. That is why I got it, not to control it by remove but just connect it to psu and call it a good day.
 
Gam3r01 is pretty much correct.
Lets assume you have this product:
http://www.amazon.com/Airgoo%C2%AE-Computer-Light-Remote-control/dp/B01AZ4XX0E
You would need the black molex (or d connector, as they refer to it) plugged to PSU, the other end goes to the white IR receiver unit, to which you also plug the led strip to.
If you use remote or not, is your choice, ALL parts are needed for leds to work though.

IF the D-connector/molex is loose enough that it wont stay plugged to PSU's connector, the fault lies in either PSU plug or the led strip adapter. My personal bet is LED strip.

As side note, I laugh at their line "Don't buy those cheap led light strips that can be assembled by teenage labours, can can be broken the next day." since they are EXACTLY that at odd $15

Also you are incorrect in LED's needing ac, they work only on DC and majority of led strips work at 12V, some more powerful ones use 24V
You can of course modify the strip and connect it straight to power supply with some soldering, This DIY modifying is not recommended though.

Now.. to solving that loose molex connector problem.
Ldh6tT9.png

You can either use small flat screwdriver to make the female (holes, PSU end) molex connector contacts smaller, they are kind of open ended O and thus more snug. (I wouldn't do this)
or you can do the same and spread the contacts on the LED strip adapter a bit apart (right image) with said small flat screwdriver head.
the amount you need to adjust is TINY.
Yes, if adapter had all 4 pins, even if 2 would be unused, I would say that it wouldn't be loose.


Alternate solution is of course to just return it, the plug is loose and wont stay connected, thus.. faulty product. I doubt any others are better though.
 
Ok if it is dc, then when I cut the wire from the strip, I connected 2 9 volt batteries and then hooked it up to the strip to see if I get power but no go. Should I have been using series or parrel circuit? The molex connector fits fine into the molex to the psu, it is just the connector that goes into the other cord that is on the cord that the molex connector fits into the molex from the psu. I can't really go back other than just do the diy thing. So will it start a fire? Why is it not recommended? Can I just use the positive and negative wires? Do I need to throw a resister in there and where to put it in the circuit? I guess I can just get another product but different.Just would like to know those questions. What about this product? Straight shot there.
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Light-Flexible-Strip-Computer/dp/B00K7ZYFIG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U
 
9V+9V=18V, it is far too much for 12V also if you have + and - mixed up, due to nature of LED's, they do nothing.
Also 12V is 12V so no 9V or 18V.
Looking at pictures, the +12V is +12V and the color of leds to be on (and their intensity) is based on the RGB connectors, which are -
add in resistor in series to that and you would dim said led color from full (zero ohms) to off (pretty much like 20kohm)
So if you would want it to be red, you would connect +12V to +12V and - to R
There is nothing really wrong with Do it Yourself approach as far as connectors go. problems usually appear after few weeks to months if care was not taken to insulate the connection points. (tape dries up, gets loose, +12V goes to case and either trips PSU overcurrent or burns stuff)
pretty much only somewhat sure way to connect wires is to solder them and then use shrink tubing on top. http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1464443089&sr=1-3
or.. use connectors.

Rest of your post I cannot really understand.

The best how-to guide that I can think of. (with exception of manual, possibly) is in one of the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2P1OOCH0G1P8W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B01AZ4XX0E
so you would need to connect the strip (or splitter cable) to end of the led controller (white thing) with male-male 4 pin connector.

If you have already demolished the connectors (quite possible, from posts) then I fear you are pretty much out of luck.

The uxcell led strip would be easier to set up since you just plug it in and done. it is single color only though.
 
Solution


Ya I do not want to risk burning something. I will get that other led strip I mentioned. I would rather pay $7 then risk my pc being burned and paying $1000 for a new one all because of led lighting. Thanks.