AHCI compatible BD-R?

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
Does anyone know of an internal CD/DVD/Blu-Ray player that will run on an AHCI enabled controller?

Thank you,
Art
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
That is what I thought, but once I had my difficulties I began reading the reviews of various drives on Newegg, etc, and found a lot of people stated they had to set their controller to IDE mode to make a DVD drive work. Doesn't seem "right" to me, but it was a common thread, and googling the subject turned up more on it.

Maybe I just need to RMA the drive...or do a fresh install with that drive hooked up.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530


Specifically, the LG UH12LS28 is shown in Device Manager, under "Other Devices," but does not appear through the Windows 7 interface "My Computer," nor can I update either its firmware or drivers.

This has been when I have it hooked up through the Marvell 98XXX controller built onto the P67 motherboard, regardless of whether I have it set to AHCI or IDE mode.

However, it does show in the BIOS and I can use it as as boot drive (as long as I enable "boot" on the Marvell) and did so when I tried to repair my Windows Startup.

I can hook up an HP 1270t on the Marvell with no problem. As an FYI, I have found posts by others who could not run certain SATA DVD drives in AHCI mode.

That is why I am wondering about adding a Roswill 225 card which supports ATAPI.

Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Art
 
I never tried to connect my DVD drives to a Marvell controller. I presume that all your ICH10R ports are in use?

The Rosewill 225 might be a solution as long as you don't need to boot from your DVD drive.

If it was my system, I'd find a drive that works properly on the Marvell in AHCI mode or I'd report the issue to both LG and Asus.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530


I think this weekeind I will reinstall eveything. THe only pain is remembering which programs (only a few) I need to uninstall first, as their activation is linked to the hardware setup, down to which ports are used for the drives. Ugh.

My HP DVD RW works fine off the ICH10R. I was not thinking properly when I set it up, and chose the Marvell as it was SATA III and the remaining ports were SATA II...makes no difference on a DVD or BD or CD player...

I wanted to have BD-R capability and I prefer having two optical drives.

Crap...now I'm thinking of spending more $$ to get an SATA III drive for my storage, because I do think it will make a difference there...if I'm going to put things back together again!

It's an ASROCK, not ASUS, and I will take your advice and report if I cannot get it to fly. I've built about a dozen systems so while I'm not an expert, I'm not a novice/newbie either and this is the first time I've had these issues. It's also my first Windows 7 install. Thank you again.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
I guess I don't HAVE to reinstall, but my thought was this:

I have learned that if there is more than one drive attached to a machine when doing a fresh Windows 7 install, it creates some sort of system partitition, or can create a system partition on the drive that is not the install drive for Windows 7.

Perhaps it did this because I had the non-SSD drive on SATA (0), and the SSD OS Drive on SATA (1).

So now if either HD fails I am stuck.

If I do a reinstall with only the SSD in SATA (0), then there won't be any system files anywhere else.

So now if I don't have my storage drive (1.5GB/S SATA) attached, I get the "bootmgr is missing press CTRL-ALT-DEL to continue). I have tried to repair using the Windows Repair Console/Startup Repair but it hasn't worked. It shows me the error and that it is creating a new boot file, but it hasn't helped.

I have heard that there are boot utilities that migth fix this. Maybe I should try the Windows 7 forum first. I'd rather buy a $50 utility than spend hours re-doing.

So if I can get it to boot with only the SSD installed, I'll be happy.

As for changing the storage drive, I am trying not to store anything on the SSD as it's only 120gb. I have about 60gb free now. Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought that for opening pictures, more than documents of course, having 6gb/s v. 1.5gb/s would make a noticeable difference. Maybe not. Your thoughts?

I appreciate that thoughtful discussion.

 
If I do a reinstall with only the SSD in SATA (0), then there won't be any system files anywhere else.
You are correct. I always install with only the boot drive (or RAID). I normally set the controller in RAID mode before installing the OS. That way, I can switch it back to IDE or AHCI and it will still work. If you reinstall from scratch, try it and you'll see what I mean.

You meant 3 gb/s vs 6 gb/s. For a standard drive it makes no difference as the drive's transfer rate is less than 3 gb/s. 6 gb/s is important for fast SSD drives only.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530


Well I did mean 1.5gbs...it's an original SATA I drive that is four years old when the standard was just 1.5!

I was hoping you'd tell me of a boot utility to fix this problem...

I dislike re-doing it just for the time. I've never had more than one drive attached during an install in the past, and only did it this time because I thought it would help reduce my build time. Live and learn. At least I learned there is no real advatage to getting an SATA III standard drive. I do have a 10,000 RPM Raptor in miy old machine, but I don't know if the reduced seek time would make a big difference. What do you think? I am only using 21 gb on my storage drive, so that 150gb Raptor would be more than adequate.
 
If it's your hard disk that's only 1.5 gp/s, then it probably is pretty small and slow by current standards. What I meant is that a current 6 gb/s hard disk won't be noticeably slower on a 3 gb/s port. What drives do you have? Overall an old Raptor isn't faster than a new 7200 RPM SATA drive, but it sure is faster than a small 7200 RPM drive.

Have you read http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19411_102-515551.html and the links?
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
My OS and programs are on a 120gb OCZ Agility III...and FWIW, it came in at 7.9 on the Windows 7 component test.

My other two drives are both SATA I, Western Digital 7200RPM drives: One is 320 gb and I use it for storage (only 27 or 21gb used) and the other is used for the Acronis Secure Zone.

The 10,000RPM Raptor (SATA I) is in my old system and I used it for OS and programs in it.

The way the ASROCK board is set up, there are 2 X SATA III and 4 X SATA II on the board, (IHCR10?) and two Marvell SATA III built in, but slightly slower by going through that controller. They can be disabled from booting.

I think what I would like is to have my optical drives on the SATA II, so they are bootable; my OS on SATA III (0), which is where I have it; and an SATA III drive on SATA III (1) (in place of the 320gb drive) for storage. Then accessing pictures and documents should be quicker on a 6gb/s v. 1.5gb/s drive.

For my Acronis Secure Zone I am not sure if it makes much difference whether I back up onto an SATA I or SATA III drive, at least after the initial full backup is run and I'm running incrementals.

If I put the Acronis Secure Zone on the Marvell, then I would have to make that controller bootable if I needed to get to it, I expect, unless Acronis loads the Marvell controller. That's not a deal.

What do you think?
 
Then accessing pictures and documents should be quicker on a 6gb/s v. 1.5gb/s drive.
It will be if you buy a large performance drive, not only because of the faster interface. Read this review http://hothardware.com/Reviews/Definitive-2TB-Hard-Drive-Roundup/?page=3 and compare the performance of the WD Caviar Black 1 TB with the WD Caviar Black 2 TB (and other performance drives). You'll understand why I wrote that using a 3 Gb/s or 6 GB/s interface makes no difference for a hard disk. All drives tested were connected to a 6 Gb/s controller.

Unless total backup time is very important, I'd leave the Acronis drive as is. Acronis compresses the data and the bottleneck might not even be the backup drive.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530


So the 1TB WD Black, 64mb cache...that'll do.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530



Sadly my research faltered on processor selection. I did not really check the specs on the i5-2400s v. i5-2400 or 2400K, assuming that "2400 is 2400, and 65 watts is better than 95."

That is the biggest spot where my system is not what I'd ideally like, but my Opteron 170 that this replaced would run at 43 deg idle and get as hot as 57 deg under load. Fans were noisy, and I wanted cooler/quieter.

This idles around 28 - 29, will pull up to 37 at times (but cools very quickly) and I brought the multiplier up to 38 or 39 (max available). So it still idles at a 1600 clock speed but Turbo-Boost on a single core application can get to 3.8 instead of the stock 3.1.

I don't do any gaming, so overall I am very satisfied.
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
Well we had just bought an XPS 17 (L702X) for my wife...not a gamer, either, but wanting to do video editing. So I chose the I7-2630, 8gb RAM, GTX555 (3gb, but DDR3) and then replaced one of the drives with the same Agility for boot/programs.

AFTER THAT my Opteron finally had enough hiccoughs that I needed to reinstall Windows and all programs. Well I wasn't going to reinstall XP. Well, if I'm not installing XP but 7, I might as well make some hardware changes along the way...one thing led to another, but for roughly $1,000, including an 80+ gold PS and nice, quiet ANTEC case, I did OK!
 

kzeroro

Distinguished
May 26, 2011
41
0
18,530
Success at last!

I reinstalled Windows 7 with only the SSD drive hooked up, as far as HD drives, and both the BD-Reader and other DVD writer hooked up to the Intel SATA 2 ports.

After running the Windows updates I then installed (licensed!) Office 2010, etc, and put on two new hard drives for storage and for Acronis backup. The storage drive is on an Intel SATA 3 (SATA 3 (0) ) connector and the backup drive on the SATA 2, Intel controller.

EVERYTHING works, including some items I'd have trouble with (a USB sound card for ham radio, the BD-R, as noted, an older printer) and all is happy. I can now boot with only the SSD connected, etc.

For the Hard Drives I went with two Hitachi HDS723015BLA642. They are 1.5gb SATA III with 64mb cache.

The M/B is hanging from 26 to 29 degrees, the processor idles around 27 and will get up to 36 or so momentarily when doing something in Turboboost As noted before it's the 65 watt version. So I could someday replace it with an i5 2500K and I bet run 4ghz on air, but I don't game, I don't edit videos...I just wanted something I'd be happy with in three years.

Thanks for sticking with me on this. I think having that LG blu-ray reader attached when I installed Windows was critical.
 
Just to indulge in beating a dead horse...

Original configuration: Optical drives attached to Marvell controller, fail.

Final configuration: Optical drives attached to Intel ports, succeed.

If this is the case, I have a question: Did you install the drivers for the Marvell chipset that probably came with your motherboard? I only saw a reference to loading drivers for the optical drive.

The theory that I'm getting at here is something I've seen myself; that the second controller chip needs specific drivers installed before it can be used in Windows. And if this is the case, it may apply to a few other threads that I have seen around here, so I would greatly appreciate an answer from the OP.

Thanks.

 

TRENDING THREADS