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Question Annoying and disturbing beeping sound on startup.

Nov 8, 2019
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Hello everyone!

So I have this very annoying beeping sound on startup. It's as if someone is milling inside the PC, but it's a , more or less, digital sound (I am very sure it's not because some wire got caught a bit above the CPU fan, I just dissassembled it, cleaned it and assembled it again) .

Before cleaning, I had this issue while playing pretty graphically solicitating games and I also had a display error drive that said something like " Nvidia Geforce display driver stopped working for a period time " ( ofc, this is not as accurate as I'd wish ) .

And now, after cleaning, it already beeps on startup!
I have no errors or malfunctions on the screen, it just simply starts beeping like "Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehhh, I don't like you, turn me off!" .

For the love of God, I hope it's not because of the graphics card ...

CPU : i5 - 8th Gen
GPU : Nvidia 250 GTS
Motherboard - Gygabite GA-P55M-UD2/US2

Can't even access the desktop to see the specs a.t.m. , I'll try the next day in the morning . Although I know it won't "blow up" or anything that bad, I seriously think I can provoke serious damage if I do that.
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
Look in the motherboard's User Guide/Manual.

The troubleshooting section should provide a list of the beep codes and what any given pattern of beeps may indicate.

And do update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS.

Drives, RAM, PSU, PC brand (make, model).

No built-in Motherboard video ports - correct? Are you able to borrow another GPU for testing purposes?
 
Reactions: Clapback
Nov 8, 2019
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Hi!

Yes, it is an "improperly placed/inserted GPU error" I think : based on the Award BIOS beep codes I had :
i. long beeps
ii. 2 short beeps + long beep

I think I know what the error is : one of the graphics card is quite "unstable" when put in the PCI Express 16 Slot ; I tried to tighten the screws as much as possible and when I grab it carefully , pull it firmly on the sides, it moves quite some millimeters O.O ( of course, I didnt force it, just tried to test it ) .

Unfortunately I don't have a spare GPU to see if anything else occurs .

I have a question though :

This "Nvidia 250 GTS" GPU has 2 graphic cards :

- on one of them it has the series GV-N250ZL-1GI -- this one is unstable

- on the other it is GV-N250OC-1GI -- this is stable

Is it mandatory that I put both of them?

Otherwise, the only option is to run the PC with the help of the integrated GPU from the i5 CPU .
 
Nov 8, 2019
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EDIT : I tested both separately. It beeps at each . I tested the PC without both of them.

Still beeps. Long. Continously.According to the POST code : it's still a wrong placement of the GPU .

I guess bye-bye motherboard :p .

EDIT 2 : Also , here are the specs :) :) :) :)

https://postimg.cc/vDTPvsTF

While I tried to ignore the beeping, I took a quick snap ...

Also, very weird thing :

I looked over Device Manager, display drivers and it showed that my graphics card was working properly( while either of the cards were put , ofc ) . Two / three minutes later, the PC turns off by itself .
 
Last edited:
Nov 8, 2019
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That GPU in the link is pretty close. I think mine actually doesn't support SLI, but anyway, that's not the issue .
Here are the images to understand exactly what are the graphics card(s) :


The blue slots are the PCI x16 slots & the white ones are PCI Express .
As you can see, this "set" for the video graphics card ( that is why I don't understand if both need to be placed, or just one ) .

So again, I've tried to :

● put both of them
● keep just one in the bottom PCI slot
● try the other one
● try the other PCI slot
● try the other graphics card
● try without ANY of them

In ALL cases, I get this beep .
Here is a link to the video :



EDIT 3 : Here's the GIGABYTE motherboard manual .

https://we.tl/t-Gkyzknibmr
View: https://vimeo.com/372160637

EDIT 4 : And yet, apparently, the PC looks as if it works just fine, it's just that ... it-it-it BEEEPS!
 
Last edited:

Karadjgne

Titan
Herald
Yes, those cards are sli capable, (look for the little card slot gold pins on the top side of the card, opposite the screw) although I don't see an actual bridge, so you are using the pcie and reducing the effectiveness.

In bios, you'll have the gpu as primary graphics adapter, or should be. But to enable sli takes a trip through nvidia control panel and various 3d settings.

It almost sounds like your sli is only partially setup and is hanging up on a setting either in nvcp or bios, and you are using windows shutdown and saving cmos info which then pops the error on boot since there is one.

Have you reset cmos without the cards installed? Returned bios to optimal factory defaults between card swaps? HDD error or system file corruption?

When reinstalling the drivers, did you use Express install, or choose Custom and check the box for a clean install ( Express just looks for driver version numbers and skips everything not up to date, so any corruption/data error in a updated driver also gets skipped, needs a clean install to reapply everything).

Are the motherboard chipset drivers (gigabyte website) the last ones posted?
 
Nov 8, 2019
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Yes, those cards are sli capable, (look for the little card slot gold pins on the top side of the card, opposite the screw) although I don't see an actual bridge, so you are using the pcie and reducing the effectiveness.

In bios, you'll have the gpu as primary graphics adapter, or should be. But to enable sli takes a trip through nvidia control panel and various 3d settings.

It almost sounds like your sli is only partially setup and is hanging up on a setting either in nvcp or bios, and you are using windows shutdown and saving cmos info which then pops the error on boot since there is one.

Have you reset cmos without the cards installed? Returned bios to optimal factory defaults between card swaps? HDD error or system file corruption?

When reinstalling the drivers, did you use Express install, or choose Custom and check the box for a clean install ( Express just looks for driver version numbers and skips everything not up to date, so any corruption/data error in a updated driver also gets skipped, needs a clean install to reapply everything).

Are the motherboard chipset drivers (gigabyte website) the last ones posted?

Hi!

Whoa, well, as a beginner , this is incredibly hard to grasp. Honestly, I almost have no idea what you are talking about there, it seems pretty difficult so I'll have to dig some info...

But let me think about it :

1. I don't know how to reset the CMOS without the cards installed (I guess rookie mistake).

2. Didn't reset to BIOS optimal factory defaults (another rookie mistake).

3. I will have to find put if it is HDD or system error. Hope it's just something very dumb that I did or that it was very dumb to un-check some stuff.

4. Didn't even have the opportunity to reinstall the driver .So either Express or Custom ... didn't do anything.

5 . If by motherboard chipset driver you mean the motherboard corresponding to the manual, then yes, it is precisely that motherboard.

It is quite unfortunate that I was so ignorant as to not do any other BIOS settings. I hope I didn't make things worse...

Maybe it was best I gave it to someone else to "repair" it, but I had the fancy idea to learn about computers.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Herald
Lol, sink or swim, only one way to find out...

Reset cmos is easy. Unplug the pc. Push and hold power button for 20 seconds. Open case. In the lower right side of the motherboard is a large round watch battery, usually right under where the gpu sits. Pull that out, carefully. Wait 10 minutes. Put it all back together.

Reset bios is easier, boot pc into bios (usually Del or F1, F2 or F12). In bios, there is an option to choose default settings, usually F5. Hit that then F10 to save and exit.

There's multiple tools for checking HDD's for errors, WD Tools is good, as is Crystal Disk.

If you are popping gpu driver shutdowns, there's an issue with the drivers, either one of them is corrupted or is conflicting with something else. So a custom, clean install is a good start.

If you don't use it already, CCleaner from piriform.com is an excellent tool. It'll run through your pc and get rid of all the junk, dead-end files, temporary files and clutter. There's also a registry tool, which cleans that out too (say Yes to save!). Just leave them on default settings.

The motherboard chipset drivers are audio, Lan, USB, Sata, pcie etc. They are the basic drivers for all the communications in your specific motherboard. It's an old motherboard, so no longer supported, but Gigabyte does maintain a series of updated drivers for it. Windows 10 can conflict with the old, original drivers, so fixes were made. You might need those fixes or run the probability of conflicts with communications, which can slow, freeze, bluescreen, gpu error, ram error, hdd error etc.

If you do much of the maintenence (think of it like getting an oil change in the car) things should run smoothly. Right now, it's like you have 12,000 miles on that old oil, you can expect issues sooner or later.
 
Nov 8, 2019
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Lol, sink or swim, only one way to find out...

Reset cmos is easy. Unplug the pc. Push and hold power button for 20 seconds. Open case. In the lower right side of the motherboard is a large round watch battery, usually right under where the gpu sits. Pull that out, carefully. Wait 10 minutes. Put it all back together.

Reset bios is easier, boot pc into bios (usually Del or F1, F2 or F12). In bios, there is an option to choose default settings, usually F5. Hit that then F10 to save and exit.

There's multiple tools for checking HDD's for errors, WD Tools is good, as is Crystal Disk.

If you are popping gpu driver shutdowns, there's an issue with the drivers, either one of them is corrupted or is conflicting with something else. So a custom, clean install is a good start.

If you don't use it already, CCleaner from piriform.com is an excellent tool. It'll run through your pc and get rid of all the junk, dead-end files, temporary files and clutter. There's also a registry tool, which cleans that out too (say Yes to save!). Just leave them on default settings.

The motherboard chipset drivers are audio, Lan, USB, Sata, pcie etc. They are the basic drivers for all the communications in your specific motherboard. It's an old motherboard, so no longer supported, but Gigabyte does maintain a series of updated drivers for it. Windows 10 can conflict with the old, original drivers, so fixes were made. You might need those fixes or run the probability of conflicts with communications, which can slow, freeze, bluescreen, gpu error, ram error, hdd error etc.

If you do much of the maintenence (think of it like getting an oil change in the car) things should run smoothly. Right now, it's like you have 12,000 miles on that old oil, you can expect issues sooner or later.

LMAO. I really liked the way you explained :D:)) . Thank you very much for the whole solution and technical breakdown , you guys are really AWESOME.

This whole thing was so frustrating and, yet, I can't believe I'm nervous to find out the next thing I can do to repair my PC.

I'll keep in touch as, right now, I'm at college.

... can't <Mod Edit> wait to see my face when I find out how easy all of this is =)) .
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nov 8, 2019
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Ok so :

CMOS reset : done

BIOS best defaults : done

Problem : what the <Mod Edit> , the PC turns off randomly?

1st attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372464211


2nd attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372461350


So what is this now? I have no clue ... CMOS error? Related to the power? Or could the battery not be good anymore?


EDIT : https://we.tl/t-smljopD8H5

●here's a download video link (apparently VIMEO is so good, it won't allow me to properly upload the 2nd 5 minute video; here's both of 'em).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nov 8, 2019
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Here are some recordings I did that you can download through the wetransfer link, to better understand my issue :

https://we.tl/t-0RQ7qgvg5D

These clips were also sent to a colleague that knows some stuff too. Since the PC kept turning off, he has suggested that I take an insulator -- since my motherboard didn't actually have one.

He told me that the hard drives could be also at fault for the constant turning off, but I tested them separately and the PC behaves the same : it turns off at some point . I checked the power cord at times : they seemed to be PROPERLY put in.

The PSU might be too overpowered? I have no idea what else could cause this sudden turn off.

I also don't know how I should make the hard drives' Master & Slave settings. I mean, on one of them there's this Windows Vista that the PC used to run on (so I guess this should have the Master settings) and the rest should have Slave settings? I guess GIMF here ...

So let's say I get the insulator and this still happens. The PSU is new, the battery is new.

What are the possible problems?

EDIT : Forgot to change the date & time, but I don't think that's an issue.
 

Vic 40

Polypheme
Herald
So again, I've tried to :

● put both of them
● keep just one in the bottom PCI slot
● try the other one
● try the other PCI slot
● try the other graphics card
try without ANY of them!!

In ALL cases, I get this beep .
So even without the gpu(s) you get that beep. Is there a motherboard speaker placed on the motherboard? What happens if you remove that if you have one.
 
Nov 8, 2019
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So even without the gpu(s) you get that beep. Is there a motherboard speaker placed on the motherboard? What happens if you remove that if you have one.
I don't think the SPEAKER wire might be a problem, unless that causes an actual shortcircuit, which may be the reason why my PSU randomly closes.

Because this is actually the problem now. Look up, where I put the wetransfer link. It seems that this post is suddenly ghosted since there still is an issue with my PC and maybe nobody knows what it actually is. But please guys, this went so well until now : put more questions, watch my vidoes and take in account the circumstances, maybe we can logically deduce what is the main cause of this sudden power cut. The only phenomenons I see which result to this issue are :

1.Overpowering -- which means that I need to add up some hardware.

2.Short-circuiting : in this case, how do I check for short-circuits?

3. Incompatibilty -- though I don't see how the PSU could be incompatible. I took the dead PSU, went to a PC components shop, showed it to a guy and told me this new one is pretty similar. I don't think and I hope it's not a scam... I think this can also be related to the first one...
 
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Feb 13, 2019
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I don't think the SPEAKER wire might be a problem, unless that causes an actual shortcircuit, which may be the reason why my PSU randomly closes.

Because this is actually the problem now. Look up, where I put the wetransfer link. It seems that this post is suddenly ghosted since there still is an issue with my PC and maybe nobody knows what it actually is. But please guys, this went so well until now : put more questions, watch my vidoes and take in account the circumstances, maybe we can logically deduce what is the main cause of this sudden power cut. The only phenomenons I see which result to this issue are :

1.Overpowering -- which means that I need to add up some hardware.

2.Short-circuiting : in this case, how do I check for short-circuits?

3. Incompatibilty -- though I don't see how the PSU could be incompatible. I took the dead PSU, went to a PC components shop, showed it to a guy and told me this new one is pretty similar. I don't think and I hope it's not a scam... I think this can also be related to the first one...
Ok so :

CMOS reset : done

BIOS best defaults : done

Problem : what the <Mod Edit> , the PC turns off randomly?

1st attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372464211


2nd attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372461350


So what is this now? I have no clue ... CMOS error? Related to the power? Or could the battery not be good anymore?


EDIT : https://we
Ok so :

CMOS reset : done

BIOS best defaults : done

Problem : what the <Mod Edit>, the PC turns off randomly?

1st attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372464211


2nd attempt :
View: https://vimeo.com/372461350


So what is this now? I have no clue ... CMOS error? Related to the power? Or could the battery not be good anymore?


EDIT : https://we.tl/t-smljopD8H5

●here's a download video link (apparently VIMEO is so good, it won't allow me to properly upload the 2nd 5 minute video; here's both of 'em).
.tl/t-smljopD8H5

●here's a download video link (apparently VIMEO is so good, it won't allow me to properly upload the 2nd 5 minute video; here's both of 'em).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nov 8, 2019
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CPU TEMP 88C in bios seems a tad bit high. Cpu alarm for overheating???
Oh <Mod Edit, you may be right. Should buy some thermal conductive glue; I forgot that I cleaned the stickyness off of it once I had it out. Unless that won't help... would I need a better CPU cooler?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Reactions: throwawayaccnt
Nov 8, 2019
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Ok, so I finally rebuilt my PC, put the thermal paste...

Now the PC beeps shortly and continously, like : "beep-beep-beep-beep-beep" and so on and between the beeps, there's just a fraction of a second...

Anyone have any idea?Maybe I put some memory in the wrong place. Could be the RAM...

Note : the BIOS running is made by Award -- improperly said.
 
Nov 8, 2019
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It was indeed a RAM problem, so I took both memories and put them in the other two RAM slots (from the Two Module to the Four Module -- I might be wrong, but that is how I remember).
Also, I took an IDE cable for the internal hard drive I suspected was necessary to make this PC run. I guess this hardware was necessary to fulfill a balanced voltage division.

Anyways, I am very happy that the PC is running back to normal, as it did before. Only thing to solve is to do some BIOS settings, but I guess my dad will do them when he comes home. The BIOS is pretty weird to deal with (it has some Auto/Manual/None settings instead of normally switching the hard drives to either Slave/Master -- maybe I need a jumper to do such settings?I don't know. Funny thing though, the IDE cable is set on Slave on that internal HDD; the rest are SSD's and I think it's the Intel, the one with the functionable Windows 7, that I should make the Master. Luckily, I can operate it using the Boot Menu. For some reason, it is getting just a tad slow, but it's not such a big deal at all. I was amazed to see that, FINALLY, the PC doesn't have any other POST sound errors anymore! It is a complete shock! A month and a few weeks, I've spent to learn about this machine ( and I haven't even learned everything yet! It seems like just the beginning! ).

Thank God it's over...At least, that's what I hope...
 

Vic 40

Polypheme
Herald
Well from the manual, the ram should be in the white slots (with two modules) . Hope they are there,otherwise might the cooler stil not be snugly tightend on all corners or the memory controller might have problems. But if it works and no problems is where they are right now fine.

Might be good to read the manual for yourself,
https://download1.gigabyte.com/Files/Manual/mb_manual_ga-p55m-ud2(us2)_e.pdf


Thanks at least for letting us know how this was solved.
 
Nov 8, 2019
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Well from the manual, the ram should be in the white slots (with two modules) . Hope they are there,otherwise might the cooler stil not be snugly tightend on all corners or the memory controller might have problems. But if it works and no problems is where they are right now fine.

Might be good to read the manual for yourself,
https://download1.gigabyte.com/Files/Manual/mb_manual_ga-p55m-ud2(us2)_e.pdf


Thanks at least for letting us know how this was solved.

Well, I guess if anybody else who is a beginner and has these types of problems might find this helpful :)) .
Although, this problem is preeeeeeeeeetty long and detailed on this matter -- so it seems quite a particular problem, but I'm sure people can learn from us (especially you, guys) what was needed to find the solution. It looks like an experimental guideline of what some iissues/errors might actually mean and how to solve them.

It was a fun trip.

And yes, the CPU cooler is not properly fixed, but I'll see if it really is the case to try and squeeze it as much as possible. The thing was that the Thermaltake cooler that was put before (if you saw it, with the white fans and the Tt logo) simply didn't want to attach again. I've rotated the screws clockwise and counter clockwise for 30 minutes and those screws just didn't want to slide down into the holes designed for the fan. So I took a cooler, whose screw supports are ... not reaching the holes. By that I mean that I fixed two screws, but the rest just won't extend a little bit / won't stay such that they can fit in the whole -- they just slide away. I did try to move this other CPU fan, to see if it is fixed enough, if it doesn't hang or do anything that might affect CPU cooling and it seemed okay... Quite a redneck improvisation... The thermalpaste conductor helped too, it glued the CPU fan...

And again, the last issue is making the BIOS settings. Mainly, how to make the Slave & Master settings (for the HD's) and voltage settings, so my CPU doesn't fry.

I'm pretty freaked out that the temp is 88 deg. Celsius ... Maybe, before I use the PC for any other thing, I should do the BIOS thing first.

Thank you very much for helping! Also, I'd like any mod here to not close the thread, because the whole situation might not be over. So when I make sure that the CPU doesn't overheat anymore, I will officially declare : The case.Is.Done.
 

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