ANTEC 900 Top Removal + 200mm fan replacement

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DrFixit

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Thanks to nukemaster for obtaining picture.

ANTEC 900 Top Removal + 200mm Fan Replacement Guide

Top Removal

1. Obviously turn off ALL components attached to the case (I.E. PSU, and such)
2. Proceed to take side panels off (One is only needed but case is easier to handle)
3. Proceed to unscrew 2 screws (Marked in Yellow in photo) located at the center of the Upper Case (usually visible, but hard to find at first look)
4. Then, push all 4 retaining clips through, NOT alot of pressure is needed on these clips (AKA don't break them)
5. Give alittle tug for upper retaining clips to release (*BE CAREFUL due to CABLES are still attached to internal components and case)
6. Do a 90 degree rotation of upper panel so the fan is accessible.

Replacement of 200mm fan (BIG BOY 200)

1. Remove 3 screws that hold fan in place (Marked by green in photo)
2. Remove 200mm Big Boy fan
3. Proceed to place new fan in.

Reverse order to proceed to "normal" structure.

If this helps anyone, please post!
 

WildClay

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Thanks for posting this! Info on how to open the top of the Antec 900 case helped a lot. I have a huge XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 heat sync with a 120mm fan and it was a pain to get it all mounted in the case without taking off the top of the case. Thanks!

- Casey
 

trstew

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Regarding Step 3 of the top removal, I can't see any screws, only solid plastic. The only screws I see are 2 tiny ones accessed from inside the case, and I don't see how these could be the ones you refer to. Is it possible that Antec changed this?
 

wanderlustx2

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I believe the "B" was a change in how the slots lined up in the back, I recall reading about it when I bought mine after seeing some comments. It's been a long while but I think it had something to do with how the PCI-e lined up but mine was a "B", so I've had no issues until now. The 200mm replacement lead me here, it's about dead...
 

Baconader

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So do you have to take off the front first as well? And are the screws under the top? Because I don't see any either. There needs to be a little more detail. My top fan stopped working and I'm going to replace it.
 

Hellboy

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Doesnt that go with a AGP 2x video card and 133MHz SDRAM.

Oh the days of early motherboards..

Now what processor was it ?
 

mark_k

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Read the reviw of this fan on newegg.
He is saying it is miss labled and it is only a 160mm fan.
 

preludedude

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Thanx for the post,it really helped me,i was struggelin' cause i thought i did not have to remove the 2 screws in the middle,so i had stuck a pencil in each one of the corners and was cursin'cause the top still would'nt let go,back to the computer,googled this siet and 1 minute later tataaa! :D
 

JMESUN

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yes, i have had my pc with the antec 900 now for over a year or so.. and the big boy fan went out. i thought i turned it off becuase of all the dust and whatnot.. but turns out it was broken stupid me. my one ? is where can i get the fan at. .i bought my rig at frys.. thanks
 

fordlover49

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My 19 month old decided to stick a screwdriver through the top grill and took off a blade or two (oops)..


I bought my replacement fan from Amazon, just haven't had a chance to install it yet.
 

Iatros

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Thanks for this view. It provided the info I needed to get the top off.

Before you start: this is MUCH easier if you remove the guts of the computer, yes the MB and cooler, and probably the PS to lighten the case (which you will stand on it's top or side to remove the two retaining screws).

NOTE: there are two more retaining clips molded into the top at the front of the case. These clips are smaller, and may need to be gently pushed to remove the top. Also one of the screws into the top had a ground wire on it with a round clip. Remember to replace this when reassembling the top.

To replace the switches (my On-Off switch went bad), remove the top carefully, remembering to remove the two small screws in the underside of the top of the case chasis. The plugs for the IE1394 and the two USB ports are one unit, held in place under a plastic box retainer. First remove the plastic retainer (four screws, two to a side), and this will expose the On-Off switch on one side, and the RESET switch on the other. These are mounted on square pieces of plastic that are held in place by the melted ends of 4 plastic posts in each corner of the squares. I found that gently inserting a small modelers screwdriver under the squares and twisting would pop off the melted ends of the posts. After removed the defective switch and reset (comes as one unit from Antec), remove excess plastic from the posts with small pliers or hemostats, open the holes in the squares of the new assembly with small screwdriver, and pop the new squares onto the posts. If all small plastic leftovers are removed, the squares will go right down into a retaining area and fit tightly into the top. I used CA thick modelers' glue on each of the posts and a spot on the outside edge of each square. Seemed to hold very well. Now replace the plug assembly, and replace the retaining box over the squares. Add the screws (4) and tighten.

Reverse the entire procedure to get the top back on. This is not as hard as it sounds, and it results in a viable gaming case that should be more than adequate for future use and growth.
 
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