Antec Debuts Its First Liquid Cooling System

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troublez

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I own the H70 and I replaced the hyper 212+ with it. I haven't seen any difference in cooling and in most cases my 212+ has cooled better...
 

boiler1990

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[citation][nom]reprotected[/nom]Looks like the Corsair H70, which looks like the Asetek 570LC. I put my bets that it won't cool any better than the Hyper 212+ with dual-fans.[/citation]

Yeah, I was debating the Corsair H50 and the Hyper 212+ (had an extra 120mm fan too). I love the 212+, and it's not even loud.
 

doyletdude

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Well lets look at the marketing here. They clearly aren't even aiming for enthuasists. But i give them props because they aren't lying to themselves about it either. They flat out say its only a 20% increase over stock, and instead of talking about overclocking or faster speeds, they talk about easy installation and how it can fit in tight spaces. So is it super effective? No, but it wasn't aimed for us anyways. At 70$ I assume they are aiming at entry level DIYers or OEM owners who want to improve there cooling headroom. It looks like a solid product to me but no, I wouldn't buy it myself. I need more than 20% LOL.
 

razor512

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Don't go for these fake liquid cooling systems,

Other than saving physical space, they generally offer no benefit compared to a decent aftermarket air cooler, in many cases, they perform worst.

I tried the corsair one, and it did about the same or worst than my much cheaper sunbeam core contact cooler, only problem with the corsair is that it has a built in pump that can fail and require the entire unit to be replaced, if the fan on my sunbeam cooler fails, $3-4 is all it takes to replace it. I also have plenty space in the case so it doesn't matter if there is a massive cooler in it.

If you want the benefits of liquid cooling, you need to go for a higher end system where you can use multiple radiators.
 

segio526

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These liquid CPU coolers are very underwhelming. They don't appear to provide any advantage on noise, cooling, or price compared to midrange/highend heatpipe coolers. I'm guessing the limitation is the amount of liquid in the system. Perhaps a reservoir that sits in a 5.25" bay or two would finally give these systems the cooling advantage, noise advantage, or both?
 

rpmrush

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The biggest problem with real liquid cooling systems..240 and 360 radiators..is that to maintain a great OC you have to crank the fans up and they are loud. They perform fantastic, but not quiet. These all-in-ones perform midpack compared to big air and are mid pack on noise as well. They really don't have an appeal. A Noctua NH-D14 is super quiet when cranked all the way up and cools better by far than any all-in-one water cooler.
 

sykozis

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[citation][nom]Razor512[/nom]Don't go for these fake liquid cooling systems,Other than saving physical space, they generally offer no benefit compared to a decent aftermarket air cooler, in many cases, they perform worst.I tried the corsair one, and it did about the same or worst than my much cheaper sunbeam core contact cooler, only problem with the corsair is that it has a built in pump that can fail and require the entire unit to be replaced, if the fan on my sunbeam cooler fails, $3-4 is all it takes to replace it. I also have plenty space in the case so it doesn't matter if there is a massive cooler in it.If you want the benefits of liquid cooling, you need to go for a higher end system where you can use multiple radiators.[/citation]

Fake liquid cooling system? You are aware that it maintains all the components of a "real" liquid cooling system right??

Pump, radiator and liquid transfer tubing....same components that a "real" water cooling system has...
 

ltbob

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Meh no mess no risk of spillage

BUT HEY WHEN DO I SPILL? if we are= smart enough for a custom liquid cooling
go for it!

if you do everything good you will not mess up
 
Seems like a copy of the H70.......
And for the rest of everyone who's really not getting the concept of this CL Liquid Cooling setup, for people like me, who like in a very high dust environment, maintaining the temps around 60C comes at a price of 4 to 8 fans in the rig since the ambient temps around here itself are pretty high... Having 4 fans even the best of them makes a din that makes a car engine seem silent.... having eight of them is like a Cessna pre flight.
Not to forget the suction power and the dust inside after a week of running would make you feel like the rig put on 5 kgs in 7 days....
So a liquid cooling closed loop with one fan on the radiator and one fan for the air intake on the case seems to be the beast option.... even though it may not cool like the heavenly tower like air coolers....with multiple fans....
 

hardcore_gamer

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[citation][nom]alyoshka[/nom]Seems like a copy of the H70....... And for the rest of everyone who's really not getting the concept of this CL Liquid Cooling setup, for people like me, who like in a very high dust environment, maintaining the temps around 60C comes at a price of 4 to 8 fans in the rig since the ambient temps around here itself are pretty high... Having 4 fans even the best of them makes a din that makes a car engine seem silent.... having eight of them is like a Cessna pre flight.Not to forget the suction power and the dust inside after a week of running would make you feel like the rig put on 5 kgs in 7 days....So a liquid cooling closed loop with one fan on the radiator and one fan for the air intake on the case seems to be the beast option.... [/citation]

Or a positive air pressure type case..great cooling and less dust. ;)
 

buzznut

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[citation][nom]Razor512[/nom]Don't go for these fake liquid cooling systems,Other than saving physical space, they generally offer no benefit compared to a decent aftermarket air cooler, in many cases, they perform worst.I tried the corsair one, and it did about the same or worst than my much cheaper sunbeam core contact cooler, only problem with the corsair is that it has a built in pump that can fail and require the entire unit to be replaced, if the fan on my sunbeam cooler fails, $3-4 is all it takes to replace it. I also have plenty space in the case so it doesn't matter if there is a massive cooler in it.If you want the benefits of liquid cooling, you need to go for a higher end system where you can use multiple radiators.[/citation]
yeo, I agree with the "fake" water cooling moniker. I bought the Domino ALC for $70. Should have known, it was louder than my TRU and didn't cool better. Also went belly up after 6 months. Total waste of time and money.
 
G

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Positive air pressure matters most on paper, it's more hype than anything. Try running positive air pressure in one of the CoolerMaster HAF series for about 4 months, in a typical room that suffers from dust, and see how much less dust you actually wind up with.
 

soundping

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I using a Corsair H50 cooling a AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz 125watt "non-clocked" and I'm running about 29C-38C.

The CON: These liquid type cooling systems take longer to bring down your cpu temp.
 

jsc

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[citation][nom]iam2thecrowe[/nom]cant you get 20% better coolin gwith just air cooling?[/citation]
"... and up to 20-percent greater performance under full load than stock CPU coolers."

I saw that also. I'll stick with air.
 

RazberyBandit

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"The performance advantage doesn’t just apply to the CPU," he said. "Routing all the CPU heat directly out of your chassis means lower overall ambient temperature, which helps out your other components."
That's great, except for the fact that the IDEAL situation is for the radiators of these units to draw FRESH air directly into them instead of working as an exhaust fan. Drawing-in fresh, unheated air yields maximum cooling. Working as an exhaust, the radiator would use air from within the case (which is likely pre-heated due to passing over HDDs, chipsets, etc.) through it, reducing the cooling effect.

What bugs me is that statements was made as if air coolers can't route CPU-heated air directly out of a case. Mine does, with a little help. It's aimed directly at another fan on the back of the case, which just happens to be identical fan to the one on the cooler on the same header, meaning they spin at the same speed. It's basically a push-pull setup without having them both mounted on the HS.

All that and it costs $70? I'll stick to a standard air cooler, since they're much cheaper and work just as well.

[citation][nom]jim5450[/nom]Positive air pressure matters most on paper, it's more hype than anything. Try running positive air pressure in one of the CoolerMaster HAF series for about 4 months, in a typical room that suffers from dust, and see how much less dust you actually wind up with.[/citation]
The key to a proper positive pressure configuration is controlling the intake of dust through the use of easily accessed and removable dust filters. (Preferably, external filters.) Cleaning and maintaining these filters simply comes with the territory. In a high-dust environment, positive, balanced, and negative pressure setups all end up with dust inside them if the intake ports are not filtered. The advantage a filtered positive pressure design would have is the dust can only enter through the filtered intake fan ports, rather than through every small crack in a case.

Positive pressure is far from hype.
 
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