Anti Corrosion and Disstilled Water help

[Jesse Davie]

I live in New Zealand, and we don't have many places that supply gear for water cooling loops.

I'm looking for anti corrosion agent. I heard biocides can stop it as well, but I doubt it. I'm planning on using a kill coil since I can't find any PT nuke in NZ.
I can get Larkooler Coolant (http://www.overclockers.co.nz/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_83&product_id=294) but it says nothing about corrosion but mentions oxydation, but they are different things :c

I could order PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - 15ml Bottle (http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Liquid-Utopia-15ml-Bottle/dp/B00CDXQ22M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378708769&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=primochill+liquid+utopia+15ml+bottle+-+clear) but I'd rather not use amazon (Shipping and time suck).

Is there any home product I can use for anti corrosion?

All the blocks I'm using are copper. The fittings not sure.

I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

[manofchalk]

If all of your blocks are Copper, I would say there is minimal risk of corrosion. You should be fine to tun without any particlar form of protection against Galvanic Corrosion.
But if you really want to make sure, an Ethelyne Glycol (Anti-Freeze) and Distilled Water solution is what you want to use. Do not do this if you have acrylic parts (Probably the reservoir) as the Ethanol (Alcohol) will wreck any acrylic.

 

[Jesse Davie]

If all of your blocks are Copper, I would say there is minimal risk of corrosion. You should be fine to tun without any particlar form of protection against Galvanic Corrosion.
But if you really want to make sure, an Ethelyne Glycol (Anti-Freeze) and Distilled Water solution is what you want to use. Do not do this if you have acrylic parts (Probably the reservoir) as the Ethanol (Alcohol) will wreck any acrylic.

The res body is constructed of Nylon. The view port... I have no idea. Could be glass... But more than likely its gonna be acrylic.
I'm guessing nylon wouldn't be damaged by the Ethanol?

Would the fittings be of risk of causing corrosion? If I had to guess, they look like aluminium.

Luckily the rads are made of copper tubing and fins haha.

 

[manofchalk]

Nylon is a type of plastic I think, not an issue for corrosion. I would assume Nylon would be fine against the Ethanol, though you may want to look it up. That view-port is more than likely Acrylic though.
Aluminium is a very bad metal to have in a water loop, those fittings are more than likely Nickel plated Brass.

 

[4Ryan6]

@ Jesse Davie

Using steam distilled water I have not had any signs of corrosion at all, I have however had some problems take place using a Silver Kill Coil, (Which I no longer use).

Please don't ask what the problems were, they were enough for me to make the decision not to use the Kill Coil anymore, but I'm not going to argue with anyone about it, I'm just going to share what does work for me and my setup.

I no longer use anything but Steam Distilled Water and every 3 months I transfuse fresh steam distilled water through my reservoir changing out what's been running in the loop, with zero problems.

 

[Jesse Davie]

Nylon is a type of plastic I think, not an issue for corrosion. I would assume Nylon would be fine against the Ethanol, though you may want to look it up. That view-port is more than likely Acrylic though.
Aluminium is a very bad metal to have in a water loop, those fittings are more than likely Nickel plated Brass.

"Aluminium in the presence of copper (the main element in waterblocks) and silver (used as a biocide) initiates galvanic corrosion. This can be greatly lowered by using nickel-plated components, but is still a sizeable risk to components and added expenditure on coolant designed to suppress corrosion."

From I understand Nickel would help prevent brass from corroding with copper. Would this be correct?
But what about the kill coil? Since its pretty much pure silver.

According to wikipedia.com
"For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments, there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For controlled environments, in which temperature and humidity are controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments, there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index"."

"Silver, solid or plated; monel metal. High nickel-copper alloys -0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel -0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder; German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys -0.35"

I'm guessing a pc would be classed as a mix between controlled and harsh because of temperature fluctuations. And if thats the case, it looks like difference of -0.20 wouldn't hurt. And I can see why aluminium would trash a pc haha.
I guess I just answered my own question lol!

One more thing. Would ethanol affect PVC? I'm guessing not since some people add it to loops.

Guess corrosion and algae should be under control with distilled water. I know a UV light could kill algae. Okay I swear, last question haha. Could any home items be used as a biocide? I know dish washing solution can be used to help bleed out bubbles, but could it act as a biocide?

 

[manofchalk]

The Galvanic Index, the further they are apart the more potential for corrosion there is between metals. The typical water-cooling metals are Copper, Nickel and Brass which are all fairly close together so pose little risk with each other.
The introduction of Silver brings the difference up to .25v, which IMO is still fairly small and doesn't pose a huge risk.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

PVC, no clue TBH.

The reason why Silver is brought up is that Corrosion isnt the only threat to your loop. Without something to stop it, all kinds of nasties can grow in your loop. The answer to that is a Kill-Coil or a biocide like PT_Nuke or Deadwater (primarily Copper Sulfate).

EDIT: Forgot about that, if you use clear tubing and reservoir, UV light can also be used to kill Bacteria/Algea.

 

[Jesse Davie]

The Galvanic Index, the further they are apart the more potential for corrosion there is between metals. The typical water-cooling metals are Copper, Nickel and Brass which are all fairly close together so pose little risk with each other.
The introduction of Silver brings the difference up to .25v, which IMO is still fairly small and doesn't pose a huge risk.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

PVC, no clue TBH.

The reason why Silver is brought up is that Corrosion isnt the only threat to your loop. Without something to stop it, all kinds of nasties can grow in your loop. The answer to that is a Kill-Coil or a biocide like PT_Nuke or Deadwater (primarily Copper Sulfate).

EDIT: Forgot about that, if you use clear tubing and reservoir, UV light can also be used to kill Bacteria/Algea.

Lmao. That solder sure trashed that rad. Guess I wont face problems as big as that as long as the water doesn't stay stationary for a year.

I actually have some copper sulfate from school science work. Could I add some into the loop as a replacement for a biocide? I guess I'd have to get the right amounts and not just put the powder in.