Are these normal CPU Voltages?

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Long Silog

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Jul 5, 2015
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My PC is hard freezing under heavy load (e.g. Playing AAA games or needy games like PUBG). I'm told it's my PSU but I would really like to confirm before buying a new one. Also often my rig would turn on by itself when I put it to sleep and even when I shut it down. I would have to turn of AVR.

https://imgur.com/0HGx9w2

OS: Windows 10

MOBO: Gigabyte B85m HD3-A (previously Asus Z97 Deluxe)

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790k

GPU: Sapphire R9 390x Tri-x OC 8gb

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X series Dual 16gb 1866

HDD:1 x 128gb Samsung 840 Evo1 x 2tb WD Caviar Black1 x 3tb WD Caviar Green

Liquid cooling: Swiftech H240x

PSU: XFX Pro series 1250w 80 plus gold
 
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That HWmonitor screencap isn't very helpful. Try using HWinfo and take screenshots of all sensor values up and down the page. It will probably take several screenshots to capture all the sensors. Be sure to run "sensors only" option when you start up HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 version 26.6 or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.

*Download HWinfo
 
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I hope I followed your instruction correctly.

https://i.imgur.com/mRjvmn2.png

https://i.imgur.com/eV02c6o.png

https://i.imgur.com/ydoGFRC.png

https://i.imgur.com/43067K8.png
 
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Couple of things.

One, your memory is NOT running at 1866mhz. It's running at 1333mhz. You need to enable the XMP profile for your memory in the bios.

Two, please run something demanding like Prime95 small FFT (Version 26.6 non-AVX only), Furmark or Heaven benchmark, or any other high demand 100% CPU OR GPU benchmark or stress utility, and take another screenshot of the system voltage. That would be the section that looks like this:


2pod3x2.jpg



Because your CPU voltages look fine, but your 12v PSU voltage looks a little low and I don't know if that screenshot where it is only at 11.8v is at idle or under load. If it is under a FULL load in that screenshot, then it's still within spec although it's lower than I'd like to see, but if it's at idle, then it's going to drop further once it's under a load and THAT would be a problem. So put the system under a full load and give me a screenshot of that section again please. Thanks.

I know your system freezes under a load, so it might be a process to get that screenshot but do the best you can.
 
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XMP profile went to 1600mhz only

Ran Heaven benchmark.
https://i.imgur.com/N31QCKs.png
 
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Ok, that's because of the motherboard you have. You'll need an H97 or Z97 board to go above 1600mhz.

So, at least in this way it does not look like the PSU is dropping any lower in voltage. That is by no means a surety that the unit is good, but it's a positive sign. There are other ways in which it can be bad AND the sensor readings are only an estimation of the performance.

Really you would need to test it with a multimeter. As follows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

So if you can buy, or if you have access to a multimeter, that would be the next thing to do.

How old is that PSU?
 
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I've already performed a clean OS install and updated all drivers but the problem persists. I'll buy a multimeter and update you.

Forgot. It's more than 3 years old less than 4.
 
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I bent the pins on the other mother board by accident when replacing the thermal paste.
- + 3.3v got 3.36
- + 5v got 5.01
- + 12v got. 12.06
 
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I replaced it immediately and been using it for nearly 5 months. I just included the info because someone asked me why I would buy my current motherboard for my build. Should I exclude the previous motherboard on my post?
 
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Not really. And I asked that. So you didn't have ANY of these issues for the last five months since replacing the board, and then these problem just started up out of the blue recently?

The reason I mention it is because OFTEN when a motherboard or CPU has bent pins, BOTH get damaged from voltage shorting out or going where it doesn't belong. A bent pin can damage practically every device in the system depending on which pin is bent.

Anything could have been damaged from starting a machine that had a bent pin including the power supply. I think I'd try another power supply, one that is of decent quality and has enough capacity for your system, and see if that resolves the problem. It might mean buying a new unit if you don't know anybody you can borrow one from just to test it out.
 
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Yeah. Out of the blue. The last five months was very smooth. I have a strong feeling it's in the hardware since the problem occurred when the PC still had Windows 7 and I upgraded to Windows 10. Freshly installed but still the problem persisted.
 
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Make sure you have the latest motherboard chipset drivers from Gigabyte. Windows updates after the Creators Edition don't play well with legacy drivers, especially audio and Lan. They will cause random conflicts, especially in games and will cause the pc to lock up in a constant loop. It's not a matter of 'if' but a matter of 'when'.
 
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It's updated. But I'll try and rollback with the CD that came with the motherboard and see if that works.

Update: Nothing happened. Still hard freeze black screen.
 
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That's not what he was telling you to do. He didn't say anything about "rolling back". Rolling back would probably just make things even worse.

What he was saying, was that you need to GO to the product page for your motherboard, download the latest chipset drivers (Intel .inf), LAN drivers (network adapters) and audio drivers that are listed on the page for your motherboard model and revision. Keep in mind that there are often more than one revision of a motherboard model, so you could, for example, be on the page that says it is for the Z97-A, and not be on the correct page as you might be on the page that pertains to the revision 2.0 and your board could be 1.0, with different drivers due to different onboard hardware, and different bios.

That's probably NOT the case, but it COULD be, so it's worth paying attention to.
 
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Yeah, like I said, it was already updated. It was from https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B85M-HD3-A-rev-10#support-dl-driver-chipset but I got the idea of rolling it back since it was already up to date. It was worth giving it a try.
 
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Reason I mentioned that is because many ppl actually do check that, upgrade bios/drivers to the newest, still have issues somewhere, so decide to reinstall windows. Unfortunately, this also wipes out any and all mobo drivers, and many don't see it, because windows has generic drivers it prefers to use, which still cause errors with legacy hardware looking for specific drivers and they are no longer there. It's hard to guage anything you may have done and any specific order things are done in.

Hard freezes resulting in black screens are almost always gpu failures. Doubtful it's the psu, since the gpu uses the 12v rail and if that fails the pc shuts off, fans turn off etc. Full, instant shutdowns. Personally, my money would be on a VRM failure in the gpu. The VRM's/vram is not temp reported in almost all video cards, only the processor (gpu) is, so it's quite common for a card to see temps in the 60's yet the vrms/vram is exceeding 90°C. If the vram is the issue, common affects are artifacts on screen, leading me to suspect it's the VRM's instead, which can cause gpu shutdowns, black screens etc.
 
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Oh absolutely, haven't ruled that out at all. But like a smart dude once said, if you can rule out the improbable, what's left, no matter how impossible, has to be the answer. So ruling out drivers, gpu, psu etc as any plausible thing, leaving only the bent pin damage as a possibility...
 
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The item with the bent pin was replaced. The issue, in my mind, is that there is a high chance that something, anything actually, might also have been damaged WHILE there was a bent pin. So, traditional and common troubleshooting techniques might not be quite as applicable as normal. Still, I agree, it's hardware of one kind or another.
 
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I downloaded it and installed it again after rolling back. Another info. I plugged the HDMI cable form my GPU to my MOBO but the hard freeze still occurred but no black screen, there was a display.
 
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