[SOLVED] Are these parts Compatible?

[TheAspie]

So i'm looking into making a new PC, and found a few parts i'm into. I found a compatibility checker online, but just wanna verify here first.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 70 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card
Case: Corsair Carbide 175R RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
PSU: EVGA BR 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

I'm also looking into selling my current Acer Aspire TC-330, if anyone knows how much that will sell for that would be great

Thanks

 

[siaan312]

Those are compatible, but 2 things.

1. get 2x8 ram, not 1x16. its a huge difference.
2. get an ssd, its basically mandatory in 2020.

 

[TheAspie]

Those are compatible, but 2 things.

1. get 2x8 ram, not 1x16. its a huge difference.
2. get an ssd, its basically mandatory in 2020.

Oh, I thought it was an SSD

 

[Archaic59]

So i'm looking into making a new PC, and found a few parts i'm into. I found a compatibility checker online, but just wanna verify here first.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core OEM/Tray Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 70 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (1 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB TUF GAMING OC Video Card
Case: Corsair Carbide 175R RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
PSU: EVGA BR 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply

I'm also looking into selling my current Acer Aspire TC-330, if anyone knows how much that will sell for that would be great

Thanks

Looks pretty good but a few minor changes will improve it without increasing cost too much.

• Change memory from 3000 to 3200.
• Forget the hard drive and get a m.2 NVME drive.
• Skip the T4 cooler and put the money to a better quality power supply.
• Case choice is a personal taste type of item but a case with a mesh front is better for a gaming system that needs unobstructed airflow.
• I think if you got $15-20 for the Acer case you'd be doing good. Ultimately, it's only worth what someone is willing to pay you for it.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QyRm6R

 

[geofelt]

Be very careful about selecting ram for ryzen, particularly for older gen pinnacle ridge processors.
Use the motherboard ram qvl list and pick a kit that is known to be supported.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450 Pro4/#MemoryPR
fast speed is better, and definitely use a 2 x 8gb kit, not a single 16gb module.

The stock cooler will be just fine, no need for an aftermarket cooler.

Buy a 1tb m.2 pcie ssd.
One of the cheapest good ones will be the intel 660P
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462?&quicklink=true
It makes everything you do so much quicker.

A balanced gamer will budget 2x the cost of the processor for the graphics card.
You are spot on there.

A psu should be considered as a long term investment. They usually are good for several generations of builds. 450w is sufficient for your graphics card, but perhaps not for a future upgrade.
Here is a handy chart:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
I think I would buy at least 550w.
I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

Then, there is the issue of quality.
I am uncertain about that particular evga unit.
I would buy a tier 1/2 unit from a list such as this:

PSU Tier List [OLD]

Credit to @Starelementpokeand @Energycore for helping out with this long-awaited refresh of the old PSU tier list by Aniallation (who previously went several months without logging in), leaving the old list in need of help. This is simply an update of the list that was flawed in creation by the P...

linustechtips.com

No worse than tier 3.
I like the seasonic focus units. You will pay more for one, but they are solid with 7 year warranties or more.

There are many ryzen fans on this forum, but I am impressed by the new i3-10100 processor.
At a similar price of $130, it has 10% better single thread performance which is important for games.
A H460 based motherboard costs no more.
DDR4 ram speeds are not important to intel.

 

[TheAspie]

Be very careful about selecting ram for ryzen, particularly for older gen pinnacle ridge processors.
Use the motherboard ram qvl list and pick a kit that is known to be supported.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450 Pro4/#MemoryPR
fast speed is better, and definitely use a 2 x 8gb kit, not a single 16gb module.

The stock cooler will be just fine, no need for an aftermarket cooler.

Buy a 1tb m.2 pcie ssd.
One of the cheapest good ones will be the intel 660P
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462?&quicklink=true
It makes everything you do so much quicker.

A balanced gamer will budget 2x the cost of the processor for the graphics card.
You are spot on there.

A psu should be considered as a long term investment. They usually are good for several generations of builds. 450w is sufficient for your graphics card, but perhaps not for a future upgrade.
Here is a handy chart:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
I think I would buy at least 550w.
I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

Then, there is the issue of quality.
I am uncertain about that particular evga unit.
I would buy a tier 1/2 unit from a list such as this:

PSU Tier List [OLD]

Credit to @Starelementpokeand @Energycore for helping out with this long-awaited refresh of the old PSU tier list by Aniallation (who previously went several months without logging in), leaving the old list in need of help. This is simply an update of the list that was flawed in creation by the P...

linustechtips.com

No worse than tier 3.
I like the seasonic focus units. You will pay more for one, but they are solid with 7 year warranties or more.

There are many ryzen fans on this forum, but I am impressed by the new i3-10100 processor.
At a similar price of $130, it has 10% better single thread performance which is important for games.
A H460 based motherboard costs no more.
DDR4 ram speeds are not important to intel.

OK, So I modified the PCPartPicker list provided by @Archaic59 with some of your recommendations, should this be OK?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRWQXv

 

[geofelt]

OK, So I modified the PCPartPicker list provided by @Archaic59 with some of your recommendations, should this be OK?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRWQXv

I do not think the motherboard supports 3200 speed ram, nor does it need such speed.
The ram would work at a lower speed so the buy is ok, but you would probably pay less for 2666 speed ram which I think is about as fast as you can go.
Otherwise, good.

 

[siaan312]

I do not think the motherboard supports 3200 speed ram, nor does it need such speed.
The ram would work at a lower speed so the buy is ok, but you would probably pay less for 2666 speed ram which I think is about as fast as you can go.
Otherwise, good.

While 2666 is the fastest advertised speed of those cpus, getting 3200 on 2nd gen ryzen is not hard.
EDIT: didn't see he switched to intel, sorry.

Looks pretty good but a few minor changes will improve it without increasing cost too much.

• Change memory from 3000 to 3200.
• Forget the hard drive and get a m.2 NVME drive.
• Skip the T4 cooler and put the money to a better quality power supply.
• Case choice is a personal taste type of item but a case with a mesh front is better for a gaming system that needs unobstructed airflow.
• I think if you got $15-20 for the Acer case you'd be doing good. Ultimately, it's only worth what someone is willing to pay you for it.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QyRm6R

Disagree. 3200 and 3000 are almost identical in performance, as long as its dual channel.
even an intel 660p 1tb drive is not as cheap as a 1 tb hdd and a 128gig ssd, so he should get whichever fits in his budget.
That is a plenty good case, with not bad airflow.
And while i strongly agree with the psu, he cant ditch the cooler. read what he wrote, its a TRAY processor, so no cooler included.

Oh, I thought it was an SSD

Sadly, it is not.

Be very careful about selecting ram for ryzen, particularly for older gen pinnacle ridge processors.
Use the motherboard ram qvl list and pick a kit that is known to be supported.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450 Pro4/#MemoryPR
fast speed is better, and definitely use a 2 x 8gb kit, not a single 16gb module.

The stock cooler will be just fine, no need for an aftermarket cooler.

Ram compatiability was finnicky on 1st gen, and was almost a non issue on 2nd gen, and with newer BIOS revisions, its slowly becoming even less of a problem. he doesnt need to worry.

He doesnt have a stock cooler. Its a tray/OEM processor.

 

[siaan312]

OK, So I modified the PCPartPicker list provided by @Archaic59 with some of your recommendations, should this be OK?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRWQXv

Intel B460 (or every other beside Z or X) do not support memory higher than 2666 on i3 and i5, and 2933 on i7 and i9.
So get 2666 memory.
If you only need 1 tb of memory, that ssd is a good deal, but if you need a bit more, getting a 512 gig ssd and 1tb hdd is also a good option.
I agree on the psu change.

 

[TheAspie]

Intel B460 (or every other beside Z or X) do not support memory higher than 2666 on i3 and i5, and 2933 on i7 and i9.
So get 2666 memory.
If you only need 1 tb of memory, that ssd is a good deal, but if you need a bit more, getting a 512 gig ssd and 1tb hdd is also a good option.
I agree on the psu change.

so does this include all necessary changes then?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8ypcJb
Changes the Cooler & the RAM, and 1TB of storage is more than enough for me, I think this includes all changes, if not could you let me know,
Thanks

 

[geofelt]

so does this include all necessary changes then?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8ypcJb
Changes the Cooler & the RAM, and 1TB of storage is more than enough for me, I think this includes all changes, if not could you let me know,
Thanks

Not good.
The i3-10100 comes with a perfectly adequate cpu cooler.
The tray processor 2600 originally referenced would not have included the cooler.

Do not buy two separate ram sticks.
They may not be compatible.
a 2 x 8gb 2666 kit will cost about the same.

 

[TheAspie]

a 2 x 8gb 2666 kit will cost about the same.

so do I buy a 16gb RAM stick or 2 8gb RAM sticks, I changed from 16gb to 2 8gb cos everyone said that it was so much faster?

 

[geofelt]

so do I buy a 16gb RAM stick or 2 8gb RAM sticks, I changed from 16gb to 2 8gb cos everyone said that it was so much faster?

Buy a 2 x 8gb ram KIT, not two separate 8gb sticks.
A 2 stick kit will be faster because it can run in faster dual channel mode.
The key thing though is that you buy a 2 stick kit, not two separate 8gb sticks.
Ram in a kit is matched to perform properly with each other.
There is no guarantee that two separate sticks, even of the same part number, will work together.

 

[TheAspie]

Buy a 2 x 8gb ram KIT, not two separate 8gb sticks.
A 2 stick kit will be faster because it can run in faster dual channel mode.
The key thing though is that you buy a 2 stick kit, not two separate 8gb sticks.
Ram in a kit is matched to perform properly with each other.
There is no guarantee that two separate sticks, even of the same part number, will work together.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FDggk6
This should be everything?

 

[geofelt]

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FDggk6
This should be everything?

Very good.
The as5 is not needed because the cooler will come with paste already applied.
But, in the event that you might want to remount the cooler, you would need some paste
so it is handy to have some extra available.

This might help:

----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.

Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.

When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.

If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.
Too much paste is bad, it will act as an insulator.
It is hard to use too little.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[TheAspie]

Very good.
The as5 is not needed because the cooler will come with paste already applied.
But, in the event that you might want to remount the cooler, you would need some paste
so it is handy to have some extra available.

This might help:

----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.

Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.

When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.

If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.
Too much paste is bad, it will act as an insulator.
It is hard to use too little.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for that. I heard that ESD equipment (mat and strap) is needed, can I get away without it, or do I need both (or just one)?

 

[geofelt]

Thanks for that. I heard that ESD equipment (mat and strap) is needed, can I get away without it, or do I need both (or just one)?

You really need neither.
Build on something non conductive like a wooden table.
Do not shuffle your feet on a rug which might build up static.
I touch a metal part on the case before handling things; if there is any static, it will be discharged.
Do not handle parts by the exposed contacts on ram or the graphics card.

As a first time builder, here is some help:
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4in1-PC-Powe...or-Computer/631889283?iid=142232821294&chn=ps

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.

1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
4. Install windows.
5. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.

Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.

1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.

You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.

1. Update windows to currency.
2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

 

[TheAspie]

You really need neither.
Build on something non conductive like a wooden table.
Do not shuffle your feet on a rug which might build up static.
I touch a metal part on the case before handling things; if there is any static, it will be discharged.
Do not handle parts by the exposed contacts on ram or the graphics card.

As a first time builder, here is some help:
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4in1-PC-Powe...or-Computer/631889283?iid=142232821294&chn=ps

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.

1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
4. Install windows.
5. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.

Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.

1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.

You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.

1. Update windows to currency.
2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

What do the power switches do?
Do I install windows with just the PSU, RAM, CPU, Motherboard & GPU?

 

[geofelt]

A motherboard will have a front panel header that has some 6-8 pins.
The power buttons on the front of the case will have a wire with two connections on the end to plug into the motherboard front panel header.
Your motherboard manual will show where the header is located and which pins are for power.
Ditto for reset , HDD and system led.

You will also need your ssd to install windows.

Considering the simple nature of your build, go ahead and assemble it all in your case and not outside on a table.
You will find it easiest to mount the cpu cooler and the ram on the motherboard outside of the case.

If you have access to the internet and a usb stick, download the latest version of windows to the usb stick in advance.
Use that to install windows.
To activate windows, you will need an activation key which you can get by email from neweg or a similar reputable place.
Anything cheaper than a 10% discount is probably not legitimate.

 

[TheAspie]

A motherboard will have a front panel header that has some 6-8 pins.
The power buttons on the front of the case will have a wire with two connections on the end to plug into the motherboard front panel header.
Your motherboard manual will show where the header is located and which pins are for power.
Ditto for reset , HDD and system led.

You will also need your ssd to install windows.

Considering the simple nature of your build, go ahead and assemble it all in your case and not outside on a table.
You will find it easiest to mount the cpu cooler and the ram on the motherboard outside of the case.

If you have access to the internet and a usb stick, download the latest version of windows to the usb stick in advance.
Use that to install windows.
To activate windows, you will need an activation key which you can get by email from neweg or a similar reputable place.
Anything cheaper than a 10% discount is probably not legitimate.

Can you not get an unactivated copy of windows for free?

 

[geofelt]

Yes, the official download will run without activation.
But you will lose some functionality such as customization.
There will be a 'Windows isn't activated, Activate Windows now' notification in Settings. You will not be able to change the wallpaper, accent colors, themes, lock screen, and so on. Anything related to Personalization will be grayed out or not accessible. Some apps and features will stop working.
Only critical updates will run.

 

[TheAspie]

Yes, the official download will run without activation.
But you will lose some functionality such as customization.
There will be a 'Windows isn't activated, Activate Windows now' notification in Settings. You will not be able to change the wallpaper, accent colors, themes, lock screen, and so on. Anything related to Personalization will be grayed out or not accessible. Some apps and features will stop working.
Only critical updates will run.

OK, Thanks for that, didn't know that. I was going through trying to find the CPU in locla retailers and found this. It's basically the same but with 4.6GHz, instead of 3.6. Is it the same CPU?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-i3-10100-Desktop-Processor-LGA1200/dp/B086MMRW87
Also This GPU, I'm unsure if it's the same:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-GeFor...int=&hvlocphy=20474&hvtargid=pla-822896651014

 

[geofelt]

All i3-10100 processors are exactly the same.

GTX1660 cards are all built on the same base graphics chip which comes from nvidia.
The chips are binned as to quality and the better chips are used in factory overclocked cards that perform a bit better and fetch a better price.
The cards will also differ a bit as to the cooling solutions that are used and the aesthetics.
On balance, you get what you pay for and the differences are really not all that important.

 

[TheAspie]

All i3-10100 processors are exactly the same.

GTX1660 cards are all built on the same base graphics chip which comes from nvidia.
The chips are binned as to quality and the better chips are used in factory overclocked cards that perform a bit better and fetch a better price.
The cards will also differ a bit as to the cooling solutions that are used and the aesthetics.
On balance, you get what you pay for and the differences are really not all that important.

So it makes little to no difference?

 

[geofelt]

So it makes little to no difference?

Correct.