Asrock H170M-ITX\ac Windows 10 fresh install

[chiddie]

Hello everyone,

i made a brand new pc with:
- the mobo in subject
- an i5 6600
- a SSD Disk
- a SATA Disk
- 16GB of RAM
- a VGA card (Geforce 970)
- an external DVD burner

i attached everything and i'm now trying to install Win 10 from the ISO DVD (with an external USB dvd burner). I say trying because pc starts, i can see windows logo on screen, but after about 30 seconds of loading i receive this message:

Recovery
Your PC/Device needs to be repaired
The operating system couldn't be loaded because a critical system driver is missing or contains errors.

File: blablabla
Error code: blablabla

I "patched" the ISO using the Windows 7 usb patcher from Asrock website, but nothing changed. I really don't know what else to do.

Edit: i also tried to "burn" the ISO to a USB key, but nothing changed, i alwas get the Recovery thing. -.-

Has someone managed to install win 10 from scratch (and an external usb dvd burner or usb_key) with this mobo? Thanks in advance.

 

[rcxtra]

Is/was there an OS previously installed on the disk you are trying to install to? If so, delete the partitions on that disk before installing.

Also, your disk could also be formatted incorrectly (MBR vs GPT), are you booting the install media in UEFI mode?

 

[chiddie]

Is/was there an OS previously installed on the disk you are trying to install to? If so, delete the partitions on that disk before installing.

Also, your disk could also be formatted incorrectly (MBR vs GPT), are you booting the install media in UEFI mode?

The PC is brand new, including the disks (on SSD and one SATA). They are not even formatted, i simply attached them to the mobo.

I did not change anything in the BIOS, i simply created the bootable DVD/USB_key with the Windows 10 image and turned on the PC.

I can see the Windows 10 logo for 10-30 seonds (depending if i make it boot via USB_key or DVD) and then the Repair window.

Edit: Sorry, the blue screen says "Recovery", not "Repair", i will edit the first post.

 

[rcxtra]

Hit F11 to bring up your 'boot select' menu while the PC is booting - do you see two options for the USB or DVD (one labeled UEFI and the other not for the same device)?

Example:
USB Flash Drive 2.0
UEFI USB Flash Drive 2.0

 

[chiddie]

Hit F11 to bring up your 'boot select' menu while the PC is booting - do you see two options for the USB or DVD (one labeled UEFI and the other not for the same device)?

Example:
USB Flash Drive 2.0
UEFI USB Flash Drive 2.0

I can see the double option if i plug the USB key, if i plug the DVD Burner instead, i can only see the USB option for it, not the UEFI.

Edit: i edited my first post to give a little more infos about the hardware specs and the error i get.

Edit 2: i tried to boot via USB key with both USB and UEFI options.

Case one (USB): Windows is loading files, then error (with dos styled screen), ntoskrnl.exe (i think) error code 0xc0000098
Case two (UEFI USB): Windows logo, blue screen with recovery error, ntoskrl.exe again (i think) error code 0xc0000221 (but i recall it also gave me the same 0xc0000098 one previous time).

I also thought that the image could be corrupted, but i downloaded it two times using the microsoft tool and nothing changed. 🙁

 

[rcxtra]

If I had to guess, which I am, I'd say your system either isn't stable (need burn-in to verify), or you have a Legacy/UEFI boot conflict going on. Even though your SSD is new, the factory may have initialized the disk as either MBR or GPT format. Also, setting up UEFI boot on some motherboards is tricky. On Asus boards for instance it's not sufficient to simply choose 'UEFI First' in the BIOS, all references to 'Legacy' boot must be completely disabled (including CSM compatibility and if I recall Secure Boot also).

Few things to do here:

1. Run a simple burn-in test to make sure system is stable (Memtest86 for at least a single pass, overnight preferred).
2. Decide if you want to use Legacy or UEFI boot for the installation (make BIOS changes accordingly).
3. Disconnect all SSD/HDD except the one you're installing Windows on.
4. Delete all partitions on disk...

• 
  From DOS prompt (Windows Install -> Repair)
  diskpart
  list disk
  select disk # (where # is the number of the disk from list disk)
  clean
  convert mbr OR gpt (mbr is for legacy boot, gpt is for UEFI)
  exit

5. Reboot: Install Windows (use F11 boot select to boot install media in correct Legacy or UEFI mode).

Here is an excellent guide for Windows 10 clean install:
http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-windows-10-clean-install.html

Good luck... Oh, and use a clean Win10 ISO, not one you patched with the ASRock tool you mentioned.

 

[chiddie]

If I had to guess, which I am, I'd say your system either isn't stable (need burn-in to verify), or you have a Legacy/UEFI boot conflict going on. Even though your SSD is new, the factory may have initialized the disk as either MBR or GPT format. Also, setting up UEFI boot on some motherboards is tricky. On Asus boards for instance it's not sufficient to simply choose 'UEFI First' in the BIOS, all references to 'Legacy' boot must be completely disabled (including CSM compatibility and if I recall Secure Boot also).

Few things to do here:

1. Run a simple burn-in test to make sure system is stable (Memtest86 for at least a single pass, overnight preferred).
2. Decide if you want to use Legacy or UEFI boot for the installation (make BIOS changes accordingly).
3. Disconnect all SSD/HDD except the one you're installing Windows on.
4. Delete all partitions on disk...

• 
  From DOS prompt (Windows Install -> Repair)
  diskpart
  list disk
  select disk # (where # is the number of the disk from list disk)
  clean
  convert mbr OR gpt (mbr is for legacy boot, gpt is for UEFI)
  exit

5. Reboot: Install Windows (use F11 boot select to boot install media in correct Legacy or UEFI mode).

Here is an excellent guide for Windows 10 clean install:
http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-windows-10-clean-install.html

Good luck... Oh, and use a clean Win10 ISO, not one you patched with the ASRock tool you mentioned.

Thanks for your help. The PC is in the office, so i won't be able to try anything until tomorrow morning. I hope the system is stable (everything's new). I will first try to boot the usb key from one of the two USB 2 ports and after having disabled secure boot and CSM in the BIOS.

1. I will try to make a bootable USB key for memtest86 and run the test (not sure what options to choose nor how many time will it take).
2. Yeah, for me it's the same, problem is that i don't know what options have "to be changed accordingly".
3. This can be done easily.
4. Problem is... how do i get to dos prompt? The Recovery window apparently does not give me many options.
5. See point 4.

I am even thinking to connect temporary a SATA DVD Drive to try and see if the loader can start correctly by not booting via USB. I've never experienced similar issues before. 🙁

 

[rcxtra]

Your FIRST priority is to run Memtest86: http://www.memtest86.com/
You can put it on a USB stick or DVD. It's not very CPU intensive, but it will at least give you a sanity check if the system is stable. It will start automatically, let it run at least a single pass (it will loop run until you stop it). If Memtest86 crashes or reports any errors then there's no point in trying to install Windows until you fix the problem.

If you haven't already, go into BIOS and load Optimized Defaults and save (make sure SATA is in AHCI mode and not IDE after you load defaults - before saving). Do this before Memtest86.

No need to hook up a SATA DVD drive, that's not going to solve anything. Installing Windows from a USB stick is fine. Once you get through a Memtest run you shouldn't have any problem booting the Windows install/repair to access a DOS prompt to initialize the SSD. Read the Windows install link I posted earlier, it has a wealth of info...

 

[chiddie]

Your FIRST priority is to run Memtest86: http://www.memtest86.com/
You can put it on a USB stick or DVD. It's not very CPU intensive, but it will at least give you a sanity check if the system is stable. It will start automatically, let it run at least a single pass (it will loop run until you stop it). If Memtest86 crashes or reports any errors then there's no point in trying to install Windows until you fix the problem.

If you haven't already, go into BIOS and load Optimized Defaults and save (make sure SATA is in AHCI mode and not IDE after you load defaults - before saving). Do this before Memtest86.

No need to hook up a SATA DVD drive, that's not going to solve anything. Installing Windows from a USB stick is fine. Once you get through a Memtest run you shouldn't have any problem booting the Windows install/repair to access a DOS prompt to initialize the SSD. Read the Windows install link I posted earlier, it has a wealth of info...

Ok, memtest is running. It's not finished yet and i am not quite comfortable with interpreting what's happening but i "fear" (euphemism) that the RAM "could" (euphemism 2) have some "minor" (euphemism 3) issues:

we are actually at 4108 erros:
- 60 in test 6
- 6 in test 7
- 3993 in test 8
- 49 in test 9 (and it's still running)

i don't know what do the tests mean, but i don't think that 4k + errors are a symptom of good health anyway.

As soon as the test ends i will try to take away the 2 modules one by one and repeat the test in order to discover if only one of the two modules has issues or they are both faulty.

I will keep you and the thread updated as soon as the memtests finish.

Thanks!

 

[rcxtra]

OK, that's a problem Memtest86 MUST be able to run with ZERO errors. Testing each memory stick individually is definitely your next step - try each memory slot individually with one stick to rule out bad memory slots on the motherboard too. If a single stick fails in all memory slots then test it on another PC if you can. Need to determine if the motherboard or memory is bad - or both. You could also try testing the memory at a lower speed (BIOS settings), or even Legacy boot vs UEFI.

Safe to say you've found the problem why Windows wouldn't install. You should probably start a new thread in the Memory forum here for trouble shooting techniques:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/forum-75.html

Good Luck...

P.S. Look at your CPU temps - should be in the 30's at idle, 70 or less under load (memtest is not much of a load though)

 

[chiddie]

OK, that's a problem Memtest86 MUST be able to run with ZERO errors. Testing each memory stick individually is definitely your next step - try each memory slot individually with one stick to rule out bad memory slots on the motherboard too. If a single stick fails in all memory slots then test it on another PC if you can. Need to determine if the motherboard or memory is bad - or both. You could also try testing the memory at a lower speed (BIOS settings), or even Legacy boot vs UEFI.

Safe to say you've found the problem why Windows wouldn't install. You should probably start a new thread in the Memory forum here for trouble shooting techniques:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/forum-75.html

Good Luck...

P.S. Look at your CPU temps - should be in the 30's at idle, 70 or less under load (memtest is not much of a load though)

I'm continuing the test.

Bank 1 + Slot 1 = 3 passes without errors
Bank 1 + Slot 2 = 3 passes without errors

Bank 2 + Slot 2 = 2 passes with 1 1error (something about confidence 181)

I will now try Bank 2 + Slot 1 in order to see if it gives errors or not.

Either Bank 2 has issues or the dual channel in the mobo has issues, since one module is not giving errors in any of the two slots i'm quite confident that the 2 slots in the mobo should be ok.

 

[rcxtra]

I'm continuing the test.

Bank 1 + Slot 1 = 3 passes without errors
Bank 1 + Slot 2 = 3 passes without errors

Bank 2 + Slot 2 = 2 passes with 1 1error (something about confidence 181)

I will now try Bank 2 + Slot 1 in order to see if it gives errors or not.

Either Bank 2 has issues or the dual channel in the mobo has issues, since one module is not giving errors in any of the two slots i'm quite confident that the 2 slots in the mobo should be ok.

What MB do you have?
I'm looking at the manual for the ASRock H170M-ITX/ac and it only has 2 DIMM slots, not 4.

And what memory kit did you get (brand/model#)?

 

[chiddie]

I'm continuing the test.

Bank 1 + Slot 1 = 3 passes without errors
Bank 1 + Slot 2 = 3 passes without errors

Bank 2 + Slot 2 = 2 passes with 1 1error (something about confidence 181)

I will now try Bank 2 + Slot 1 in order to see if it gives errors or not.

Either Bank 2 has issues or the dual channel in the mobo has issues, since one module is not giving errors in any of the two slots i'm quite confident that the 2 slots in the mobo should be ok.

What MB do you have?
I'm looking at the manual for the ASRock H170M-ITX/ac and it only has 2 DIMM slots, not 4.

And what memory kit did you get (brand/model#)?

Yeah, infact it has two slots and i have two modules. I tested one module in both slots and it was ok. I tested the otehr module in one slot and gave me that error confidence 181 in one of the slots, now i'm testing it into the other slot.

After this test finishes, with or without errors, i will retest both of them together (with inverted positions compared to the first try of this morning that gave 4000+ errors) to see, again, what happens. If i still get errors, i will try to boot with the USB bootable key with Windows 10 using one module only (possibly the one that gave no errors in both slots) and see what happens. If Windows manage to boot somehow, i will ask for the module replacement i think, hoping that with the new one everything will work with the two modules together. I have no idea about how to see if there's a mobo problem with two modules together.

The mobo model is the one you wrote, the memory is this one http://it.crucial.com/ita/it/ct2k8g4dfd8213 . Should be compatible with that mobo or so i recall.

Thanks again.

 

[rcxtra]

Gotcha. You had me going when you said Bank1/2 - Slot1/2, sounded like you had 2 banks (channels) each with 2 DIMM slots on your MB.

FYI - If you do determine one stick is bad, return both sticks. Dual channel memory is sold in matched pairs (kits). Back in the day it was easy to mix memory, but at today's speeds it's more and more crucial (pun intended) that they be a matched set. Even 2 identical sticks bought at different times from the same manufacturer don't always play well together.

BTW - Did you go into your BIOS and double check the memory's speed was detected properly (2133MHz @ 1.2V)? Sometimes motherboards don't always detect the correct speed of the installed memory and it has to be set manually (including timings). That's why I suggested you start a new thread here in the Memory forum - bound to be a lot more folks strolling through that could assist.

Let me know how it works out. Might want to hurry though, just read that Turkey shot down a Russian Jet. Once the nukes start going off the EMP is gonna fry your system and we'll never find out if it was the MB or the memory

 

[chiddie]

Gotcha. You had me going when you said Bank1/2 - Slot1/2, sounded like you had 2 banks (channels) each with 2 DIMM slots on your MB.

FYI - If you do determine one stick is bad, return both sticks. Dual channel memory is sold in matched pairs (kits). Back in the day it was easy to mix memory, but at today's speeds it's more and more crucial (pun intended) that they be a matched set. Even 2 identical sticks bought at different times from the same manufacturer don't always play well together.

BTW - Did you go into your BIOS and double check the memory's speed was detected properly (2133MHz @ 1.2V)? Sometimes motherboards don't always detect the correct speed of the installed memory and it has to be set manually (including timings). That's why I suggested you start a new thread here in the Memory forum - bound to be a lot more folks strolling through that could assist.

Let me know how it works out. Might want to hurry though, just read that Turkey shot down a Russian Jet. Once the nukes start going off the EMP is gonna fry your system and we'll never find out if it was the MB or the memory

I'm starting to be a little confused. The "supposed" bad module passed 3 memtests without errors in the other slot. I have now put them alltogether again (inverted compared to the first test of this morning) and started a new memtest to see what happens.

I gave a look in the Bios and indeed the memory seems to be correctly recognized (at least for the clock and the voltage ou told me to look at). There are 458593 parameters about the timings so it's maybe better to ask for that in the memory forum. I will wait for this memtest to end again and then try to boot Windows (with one module only - or two if this memtest gives no errors, this would rather surprise me btw -) and see what happens.

I'll keep you updated and after this final test i will post into the Memory forum anyway. Hope to have an answer before the EPM nuke. 😀

Little update: i upgraded the BIOS to the latest version, put the two modules together back on, re-ran another memtest: the first pass gave 1 error "only", i let it run and tomorrow a colleague of mine will tell me what happpened overnight (I won't be in office, sigh).

Windows 10 is now booting (at least it prompt me what i want to do instead of the usual recovery error) with one module only (both works) or with the two modules together.

I have yet to understand if there is a faulty module or if there is a faulty slot, but i won't be able to make further tests until thursday. Will keep you up to date, dude.

 

[rcxtra]

Little update: i upgraded the BIOS to the latest version, put the two modules together back on, re-ran another memtest: the first pass gave 1 error "only", i let it run and tomorrow a colleague of mine will tell me what happpened overnight (I won't be in office, sigh).

If I were you I'd return that memory if you can, it seems a bit flaky. Even if you get Windows installed it's probably going to be unstable. If you can, exchange it for a more trusted brand (I never liked crucial memory that much). Not sure where you are, but NewEgg has some good prices right now... $90 bucks for a 16G kit of GSKill

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&cm_re=G.SKILL_Ripjaws_ddr4_16gb_2400-_-20-231-888-_-Product

- GSKill Ripjaws
- Corsair Vengance
- Kingston HyperX/Fury

If you can't return the memory, you could try giving it a little voltage bump in the BIOS. The Crucial memory you have is rated at 1.2V - set memory voltage to manual in the BIOS and bump it up to 1.25V and see if that corrects the errors.

 

[chiddie]

Little update: i upgraded the BIOS to the latest version, put the two modules together back on, re-ran another memtest: the first pass gave 1 error "only", i let it run and tomorrow a colleague of mine will tell me what happpened overnight (I won't be in office, sigh).

If I were you I'd return that memory if you can, it seems a bit flaky. Even if you get Windows installed it's probably going to be unstable. If you can, exchange it for a more trusted brand (I never liked crucial memory that much). Not sure where you are, but NewEgg has some good prices right now... $90 bucks for a 16G kit of GSKill

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&cm_re=G.SKILL_Ripjaws_ddr4_16gb_2400-_-20-231-888-_-Product

- GSKill Ripjaws
- Corsair Vengance
- Kingston HyperX/Fury

If you can't return the memory, you could try giving it a little voltage bump in the BIOS. The Crucial memory you have is rated at 1.2V - set memory voltage to manual in the BIOS and bump it up to 1.25V and see if that corrects the errors.

I can return the memory... but only to be replaced with other two modules (possibly sane). I've never had problems with Crucial memory before.

Just a curiosity: why bumping the voltage to 1,25 could "correct" the errors?

Thanks again! Tomorrow i will continue testing.

 

[rcxtra]

I can return the memory... but only to be replaced with other two modules (possibly sane). I've never had problems with Crucial memory before.

Just a curiosity: why bumping the voltage to 1,25 could "correct" the errors?

Thanks again! Tomorrow i will continue testing.

Increasing voltage is a way to overclock memory, or other electronics, to make them stable. My reasoning is maybe the memory you have is struggling at it's stock speed because you seem to be getting some intermittent errors. Bumping the voltage up, no more than 1.25V, may get them to run stable - but I only suggested that IF you couldn't return it.

I would definitely return if you can. Just tell them you tried it on yours and a friends PC too, and they were flaky in both system (failed Memtest86). Exchange it for some G.SKILL Ripjaws or Corsair Vengeance.

See if they'll price match this: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 2400 ($77.99)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL112515&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL112515-_-EMC-112515-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20231888-S1A4A

 

[chiddie]

I can return the memory... but only to be replaced with other two modules (possibly sane). I've never had problems with Crucial memory before.

Just a curiosity: why bumping the voltage to 1,25 could "correct" the errors?

Thanks again! Tomorrow i will continue testing.

Increasing voltage is a way to overclock memory, or other electronics, to make them stable. My reasoning is maybe the memory you have is struggling at it's stock speed because you seem to be getting some intermittent errors. Bumping the voltage up, no more than 1.25V, may get them to run stable - but I only suggested that IF you couldn't return it.

I would definitely return if you can. Just tell them you tried it on yours and a friends PC too, and they were flaky in both system (failed Memtest86). Exchange it for some G.SKILL Ripjaws or Corsair Vengeance.

See if they'll price match this: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 2400 ($77.99)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL112515&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL112515-_-EMC-112515-Index-_-DesktopMemory-_-20231888-S1A4A

Ok, i think tests are done. Windows 10 has been installed and seems to work like a charm.

I will now stress test it under Windows and see what happens.

I bought the modules directly on the Crucial website, that's why the only thing i can have in exchange are another two modules, possibly healthier than the ones i actually have.

 

[rcxtra]

Curios... What did you end up doing to get the system stable enough to install Windows? Use only 1 memory stick? Increase the memory voltage? WHAT? Sorry, didn't mean to shout

BTW: Most folks run an overnight stress test with Prime95 once Windows is installed. It stresses the shit out of the CPU and Memory to give you a good warm fuzzy feeling that the system can handle just about anything without crashing.

 

[chiddie]

Curios... What did you end up doing to get the system stable enough to install Windows? Use only 1 memory stick? Increase the memory voltage? WHAT? Sorry, didn't mean to shout

BTW: Most folks run an overnight stress test with Prime95 once Windows is installed. It stresses the shit out of the CPU and Memory to give you a good warm fuzzy feeling that the system can handle just about anything without crashing.

That's a secret, my friend... well, i basically did nothing.

The more i ran memtest86, the less errors i got into the modules, last run overnight i got 1 error only, in module 8.

So i thought "well', let's give it a try with Windows" and i installed Windows 7, upgrared it to 10 and then reinstalled 10 from scrath without any issues at all.

I will now try tomorrow to run that prime test too and let you know the outcome!

 

[rcxtra]

That's a secret, my friend... well, i basically did nothing.

The more i ran memtest86, the less errors i got into the modules, last run overnight i got 1 error only, in module 8.

So i thought "well', let's give it a try with Windows" and i installed Windows 7, upgrared it to 10 and then reinstalled 10 from scrath without any issues at all.

I will now try tomorrow to run that prime test too and let you know the outcome!

Curious... Is your PC running stable now? Did you run the Prime95 burn-in and did it complete without issue?