Bad Harddisk Block Causing Crashes

lfye

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Feb 20, 2017
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Starting a week ago, I began to have random crashes where everything but my mouse cursor would stop responding. The only way to get out of this is to manually turn off my computer using the power button on the case. This occurs consistently after about 10-15 minutes of my computer being on. I checked my event logs, and found that I was recieving an error everytime I boot up my computer, saying "The device, \Device\Harddisk1\DR1, has a bad block." followed by a warning "The IO operation at logical block address 0x1342fa0 for Disk 1 (PDO name: \Device\0000003a) was retried." Disk 1 is my C drive, which is a 120 GB ADATA SSD which I use as my boot drive. I am confused to why such a new SSD would be failing (all of my parts were purchased in early July of last year). Seeing that it was a bad block, I decided to scan my SSD to see where the bad block was in hopes of partitioning it off. However, whenever I run a chkdsk of it, my computer crashes about 30 seconds into it. Since I am not able to narrow down exactly where my issue is, I am not sure how to fix it. Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

Specs:
GTX 970 EVGA FTW Edition
i5 4460
8GB of HyperX DDR3 Memory
1TB Western Blue Digital Hard Drive (D Drive)
120GB ADATA SSD (C Drive)
Most Recent Version of Windows 10
 
Solution
That's probably correct. You may want to try a clean install of Windows on the SSD and then just see how things go. If problems persist, then I would RMA the SSD.


First of all, thank you for replying to my post so quickly! I checked my disk manager, and my boot drive is my C/1 disk. I know that is odd, but that's the case unless I am reading this incorrectly.
Here is a screenshot of it: https://gyazo.com/e0b2d244277e3bc9015c706d29756e5b
Thanks again,
lfye
 
You can't partition off a part of the SSD like that.
The SSD firmware ignores that completely.

You can create partitions, but that is just a logical partition and visual display, not a physical partition like would happen with an HDD.
The SSD firmware uses blocks as it sees fit, and you have no control over that.

Find and run whatever diagnostics Adata has available. See what it says.
Might be time to send it back for a new one.
 


Looks like your SATA cables might have been switched at some point in time since the initial Windows installation. Try swapping them (with the computer off of course). That may solve the disk 0 vs disk1 issue.

 


I installed and ran their software, which found no errors on the SSD, which directly contradicts my system logs. Also when turning off my PC to check the SATA ports as another poster had suggested, I found that all of my peripherals remained lit, along with my case, CPU, and GPU fans still running at full throttle. This makes me think that the error may be that the bad disk on my SSD contains some key parts of my operating system. This was the first time that I was able to turn off my PC through the start menu this week, and not just manually, so I had not noticed this before. Is there any way to remedy this or will I most likely just have to RMA the SSD, like you suggested?
 


Contact Adata and see what they say.
 
Hmmm, I should have been more specific. By turning off the computer, I meant powering it off, and then turning the switch on the PSU to off, or if there is no switch, unplugging the power cord. If you were able to turn off the computer using the start menu, yet fans and peripherals remained lit, perhaps there is a problem with the PSU?
 


I decided to test this and see if the PSU, in fact, was an issue. Upon turning the PC off the first time, I had the issue again, with all of the fans and lights remaining on. I flicked the switch on the PSU to off, waited a little bit, and then turned it back to on. I then rebooted the computer, and turned it off again to see if the issue still remained. Thankfully, after cycling the PSU, the peripherals issue seems to have gone away!
 


My motherboard, MSI Z97 PC Mate, doesn't seem to have a sata port 0. My ssd is plugged into port 3, and my hard drive is plugged into slot 4 (My friend just chose these slots because they were the easiest to get to cable management-wise, when he was helping me assemble my PC.)
 


My manual does not specify, so I assume any port should be fine.
 


Alright, will do! Thank you so much for trying to help me out!