News Bambu Lab issues A1 Printer heat bed recall: Here’s how to get a free replacement part

[Admin]

Bambu Lab has issued a recall on its A1 print beds. The built-in power cable seems to be prone to damage, which could lead to incorrect temperature readings, or worse in one case.

Bambu Lab issues A1 Printer heat bed recall: Here’s how to get a free replacement part : Read more

 

[NeatOman]

I've always been weary of AC mains to directly heat the bed. It faster and will warp the bed, although that's not as big an issue with bed mesh leveling. But the imagine immediately reminded me of iPhone chargers that always have to hard transition from thick to thin where the cable always frays. They definitely should have used individual thicker wire in silicone, but hindsight is always 20/20

I previously "downgraded" from a 2.5mm thick 290x280mm 320watt heated bed to a 3mm thick 310x310mm 240 watt bed (both glass). Takes about 20% longer to heat but I run the bed at 110c for amazing ABS adhesion (about 11 minutes to heat). The original Glass bed started warping after a few weeks and the new bed has yet to show any signs of warp while also having more even heat spread out.

Side note; my printer uses thick gauge wire that syphons heat from the bed, would be nice if the wires ran to the middle of the bed. Although spread out, as to not effect the thermistor as much

 

[knox1138]

The guy claims it knocked out power to his house, and I'm curious if he means a single breaker tripped or it somehow tripped the 100-200a mains. Depending on what exactly happened he might have bigger problems.

 

[edzieba]

I've always been weary of AC mains to directly heat the bed. It faster and will warp the bed, although that's not as big an issue with bed mesh leveling. But the imagine immediately reminded me of iPhone chargers that always have to hard transition from thick to thin where the cable always frays. They definitely should have used individual thicker wire in silicone, but hindsight is always 20/20

I previously "downgraded" from a 2.5mm thick 290x280mm 320watt heated bed to a 3mm thick 310x310mm 240 watt bed (both glass). Takes about 20% longer to heat but I run the bed at 110c for amazing ABS adhesion (about 11 minutes to heat). The original Glass bed started warping after a few weeks and the new bed has yet to show any signs of warp while also having more even heat spread out.

Side note; my printer uses thick gauge wire that syphons heat from the bed, would be nice if the wires ran to the middle of the bed. Although spread out, as to not effect the thermistor as much

The main benefit of mains-heated beds is not speed, but size and cost. DC bed heaters need the DC PSU of the printer to handle that increased peak and steady-state load, as well as adding a new power stage for temperature control. a 240W DC bed heater could easily bump the PSU requirements to triple what they would be with an AC bed. AC beds eliminate that BoM cost and board space.

 

[dmitche3]

I've been looking to upgrade from my Ender 3 V2 printer but I've been holding off until these new printers have some history behind them. This article re-affirms this idea, but I have to say I didn't expect anything this serious. I expected wires breaking in the hotend and tunning and glitches dealing with acceleration and such. This, as well as by the summer Creality will release yet another Ender to replace the three, four or five that they have released in the past year. I'm not happy with any of the models of late as I want the faster printing but with a larger bed, auto-leveling with manual override. Something that just isn't there yet.

 

[dmitche3]

The guy claims it knocked out power to his house, and I'm curious if he means a single breaker tripped or it somehow tripped the 100-200a mains. Depending on what exactly happened he might have bigger problems.

If it actually knocked out his entire house he should be thankful. He now knows that he needs to hire an electrician to look into his situation before he loses his house and more.