[SOLVED] Beginner to Liquid Cooling

[Frostivus]

Hey all,

I am building a new machine and I think this time I would like to try liquid cooling. I didn't put liquid cooling in my first machine as I didn't really want to risk it cracking and breaking and leaking inside my PC, but as I have owned a PC for a few years now, I think I may be able to handle it better. Is there anything a beginner like myself should know before attempting to use liquid cooling in my new PC? Is there any particular difference between coolants in PCs that makes it easier/harder to maintain or makes the cooling performance better/worse? All insight is appreciated.

(This PC will be used for gaming)

 

[iPeekYou]

Hey all,

I am building a new machine and I think this time I would like to try liquid cooling. I didn't put liquid cooling in my first machine as I didn't really want to risk it cracking and breaking and leaking inside my PC, but as I have owned a PC for a few years now, I think I may be able to handle it better. Is there anything a beginner like myself should know before attempting to use liquid cooling in my new PC? Is there any particular difference between coolants in PCs that makes it easier/harder to maintain or makes the cooling performance better/worse? All insight is appreciated.

(This PC will be used for gaming)

Cracking and leaking is part and parcel of doing any sort of liquid cooling. The risk is low, yes, but still present. For users that do mind about that, air cooling is still better. Just like you run into the risk of frying CPU/GPU from overclocking, there's an inherent risk that only individual users can decide whether they want to tank that risk. That said, I have ancient AIOs on my system that haven't leaked anything. They just look worn, is all.


If you're not into much hassle, and like the aesthetics, I recommend AIOs, both CPU and GPU. Modern CPUs won't really benefit as much as GPUs with AIOs. It's just how CPUs and GPUs are built differently. On GPUs, though, they really do drop temps a lot; dropped 26 deg C on my 1080 with a tiny 120mm AIO. Whereas 240mm AIO vs air cooling of the same price/class either gets beaten by air or just a teensy bit better.

There's also the benefit of getting AIOs with warranty. I know Corsair offers warranty that includes damages to your components from leaking AIO, so not replacing just the AIO is covered. You won't get that warranty if you build your own custom loop, naturally.

Plus, no hassle for maintenance such as cleaning the loop, picking the coolant, etc.

There's also the argument that dead pumps essentially turn the AIOs into fancy paperweight. It is also part and parcel of having AIOs. Unless the radiator and tubing is then scavenged for custom loop parts, that is. The expected lifetime is about 5-6 years. Beyond that, it's anybody guess if and when the pump fails.

Custom waterloop is the king tier, but it's much more expensive as well. For instance, I can get a cheapo 120mm AIO here for the price of an EK CPU waterblock.
You can get much more powerful pumps than AIOs can offer, better fitting blocks, and the aesthetics of your own choosing. Generally, it's even worse bang for buck than AIOs (itself worse bang for buck compared to air coolers). But, they do look baller and perhaps the best you can do for performance and customization within reason. Plus you can upgrade or change parts piecemeal.

Side note: from what I understand, distilled water is best for coolant. Just need bio inhibitors and anti corrosion stuff to achieve longer lasting loop. Not infinite, but longer lasting. You still need to maintain the loop.

 

[mamasan2000]

For custom loops, don't mix aluminium and copper, you will get galvanic corrosion. materials will eat the other. There might be some liquid solution to prevent it but I'm not aware of any.
I can't remember seeing anything about an AIO leaking in the past 10 years. But then again, I don't go out seeking that info. I prefer AIO over Fans. Fans tend to die faster. And make more noise, with less cooling.
Fans on radiator...1500 RPM fans might sound good and silent but if you need the extra cooling...you better replace them with 2300 RPM fans or similar. Check the CFM and static pressure on fans, higher is better. Brand doesn't matter as with most PC components, stats do.
Minimum 120mm fans on radiator. Minimum 240mm radiator.

In terms of case, check where you can mount a 240+mm rad. Either the front or the top, generally. Either way, the pump inside the AIO which is inside the CPU block should always be below the top of the rad. So air move to radiator and not to the pump. Air kills pumps.
Radiators have a certain thickness, and it varies. If you are going to mount rad at the top, measure the distance from the top of the case where the rad would sit to the top edge of your mobo. In that space, you must be able to fit the rad + fan. Say it's 5 cm. Now, if the Rad is 3,5 cm thickness and fans are 2 cm thick, we have a problem. Rad wont fit. Either get a slimmer Rad or mount it at the front if that is an option.

Personally, I avoid NZXT Kraken X52. I've never had problems with Corsair.

Can't think of anything else. You'll learn by doing as with everything else.

 

[iPeekYou]

Personally, I avoid NZXT Kraken X52. I've never had problems with Corsair.

I've been recommended the X52 a few times, actually. What was the problem with that model in particular? Genuinely wondering.

 

[mamasan2000]

I've been recommended the X52 a few times, actually. What was the problem with that model in particular? Genuinely wondering.

This review on Amazon is one reason:

"...Bad:
- To use it you need to use NZXT's sofware called "CAM". That software is terrible in several ways. It's a bloated monitoring suite that runs in the background taking resources. It is also very unstable/crashy. To make it worse, it logs what you're gaming and other telemetry and sends it to NZXT - unlike in Logitech's software, this cannot be deactivated (Possibly violating GDPR).

Even worse:

• The software is cloud/based. You need to login to use it. You can use a "Guest" mode with certain limitations. That means your purchase will be somewhat crippled if you are offline. That's right, you need Internet to fully use it, as if it's DRM.
• The back panel mount is extremely flimsy. Thin plastic. In some motherboards the holders will attach with some gap, leaving the cooler loose. No washers are provided to solve that. You can try to tighten the screws with pliers but then you'll realize the metal is also extremely soft/cheap - reminds me of those screwdrivers from China that you can only use once before they deform. Very bad design (also used in some older Corsair coolers). "

2nd review:

"I had to return one of these after the pump failed after about 3 months and the seller would only replace not refund as I had thrown the box away.
Now after about 7 months since the second one also failed, and managed to fry my PSU in the process. I will RMA this now as its out of warranty from the seller.
The worst thing about this problem is there is no warning signs, no rattle, no vibration, no noise. The pump just stops, the CPU heats up and the machine cuts out (if you are lucky) "


And certain Enermax units:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx-fhoB5Gyo

Gunk in an AIO? Bad.

Always read reviews, search for videos, check forums. Do the research.

 

[iPeekYou]

Crikey. Must be a kick in the nuts for such a pricey AIO. I thought CAM was about on par with iCue. Guess not.