[SOLVED] best Thermal Paste for Scyth mugen5 rev B + 8086k?

Nov 16, 2019
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Almost ready to try running my pc. Just need to put in the cpu, cpu cooler , and thermal paste This is my first build and heard paste matters. My specs are in profile. I will be using ubuntu 18/19.04(have yet to decide) as an os. which paste should i go with? My cooler came with some but should i use that or diffrent? Cpu needs some as well. I got some cosair paste for cpu before i knew paste made a diffrence Is that and the scyth one good enough or is there one better?.This will be a gaming pc.
 
That CPU will run hot and needs all the good things it can get, specially thermals. This is the best out there and relatively inexpensive...

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Thermal Compound | Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste | $6.85 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $6.85
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-18 08:59 EST-0500 |
 
Solution
What is the make/model of your cooler and cpu?

Use the supplied paste. Yes, there can be a difference, but it really is minor.
It is more important to install the cooler well.
The only purpose of paste is to fill in microscopic air pits in the mating surfaces.
Air is a poor conductor of heat. Paste is better, but no as good as metal to metal contact.
Do not use too much paste. There are many opinions on how to apply paste.
I use a small rice sized drop in the middle.
It will spread out without bubbles under heat and pressure.
It is hard to use too little.
 
Nov 16, 2019
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Have 8086k cpu , and mugen 5 rev B cooler. Cpu came with no paste or stock cooler. Cpu Cooler came with some but since im a begenner builder, wanna get coolest temps i can and not mess around with water. So go thermal guzzle on cpu and cooler or just thermal guzzle on cpu and cool paste on cool?
 
Have 8086k cpu , and mugen 5 rev B cooler. Cpu came with no paste or stock cooler. Cpu Cooler came with some but since im a begenner builder, wanna get coolest temps i can and not mess around with water. So go thermal guzzle on cpu and cooler or just thermal guzzle on cpu and cool paste on cool?
Just follow the "X" method shown in this video...
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHl62uptWaw
 
The paste you use is a minor factor.
Of much more importance is the case you will be using.
What is the make/model of your case?
What are your plans for fans?
Particularly the front intakes?
You need the ability to take in sufficient fresh air to let the cooler do it's job.

Do you have a hot graphics card?
 
Nov 16, 2019
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okay. so paste applies to both, no need for 2 seperate tubes. that video made this clear, and explained application method. so leaves one question, stock(came with cooler) scyth paste or thermal guzzle?
 
If your trying for the best thermals possible, then Delid the cpu and use Coollaboratory Liquid pro liquid metal between the die and IHS then use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut between the IHS and Cooler.

My 8700k @ 5.1Ghz maxes out at 76*c on cinebench R20 with no AVX offset. My 8700k was delided using RockitCool's kit with the above Liquid metal and paste and using their solid copper IHS.
 
Nov 16, 2019
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@geofelt i misread your question earlier, sorry. focus G is a mid-tower, and currently the 2 120mm fans which came with the case, and the fan which came with the cpu cooler are all i have. I knw my gpu will take over 200 watts so no idea if it runs hot. no one uses for gaming when i looked around.
 
Some more info for you.

With a 8086, you will not need to worry about the cpu coming off if you need to reapply paste.
The intel processors are clamped in.
As a caveat, be careful when dropping the cpu into the socket.
Orient it so that the notches are matching and the small delta is matching.
Drop the cpu into the socket.
Do not smoosh it around or you can damage the motherboard pins which are delicate.
If you later want to remount the cooler, run the cpu a bit to soften the paste for easy removal.

If you were concerned about maximum cooling, you could have done better with a stronger cooler with a 140/150mm fan.
The mugen b is ok, but nothing special. 8086 is a hot chip so do not expect maximum overclocks.

As a first time builder
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4in1-PC-Powe...or-Computer/631889283?iid=142232821294&chn=ps

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
  1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
  2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
  3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
  4. Install windows.
  5. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
  1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft security essentials is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
  2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
  1. Update windows to currency.
  2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
  3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.
 
Nov 16, 2019
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Ironic as it sounds the 4.0 speed is why i went for the 8086k. I just wanted great cooling so i would never need to worry under load. I do not play multiplayer stuff much and due to my lack of expirence and overclocking on a Z390 taichi ultimate is already said to run hot i when using the easy oc button I am not ready for an oc. Let alone a ram one as i know a cpu overclock is needed to go over 2666. This is already tripple my laptop's speed of 1.1 ghz quad core. Currently find 1-5 fps playable. So should do well enough. Thanks for the info about mounting tho. That will help a lot along side the cardboard test. But i will be using ubuntu os as main not windows.
 
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Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
It's an 8086. Honestly no need to OC any further as far as speeds go, that's already been done by Intel as the 8086 is nothing more than a limited edition i7-8700k that's been binned and had settings changed by Intel. Because of the binning, and maturity of the cpu/platform the 8086 actually runs cooler and uses less power than an 8700k, unless you try and OC to 5.1GHz, which can add an easy 100w just pushing that many threads at that speed with the required voltages.

For default settings, the Scythe Mugen 5b is plenty good enough, it's a 200w cooler on a cpu that'll barely hit 101w full package power.

As far as paste goes, there's about a 5-6°C difference between worst and best of what's usually available, and Scythe stock paste is in the upper 50% bracket, so even with Thermal Grizzly, you'd only be looking at 2-3°C better.

Don't bother with the X method, that puts too much paste down and only increases the chances of over spill, where the paste comes out the edges and slips down into the socket. Does nothing more than make a mess. Just one decent dab, dead center is all it requires, the size of a grain of cooked rice or small pea. Ideally what will happen is like a drop of liquid on a couple of glass plates for microscope use, when the cooler is put into place, the paste gets very thin, less than 1mm by a long way, and just spreads out in a circle. Consequently, how you tighten down the cooler is very important, it has to be done in an X pattern, repeatedly, or side to side in slight increments, so as not to squash all the paste to one edge/corner. If you don't hit each screw 4-5 times, you did it wrong.

The biggest differences in paste are longetivity, ease of use, ease of cleaning. The better pastes will easily last 8 years± before its even a thought to repaste. They also clean up easily, and spread easily. Cheaper pastes tend not to last as long.
 
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