So I swapped the case, and cooler I got with my prebuilt, whenever I power it on it will turn on for like 15 seconds then the fans will turn off and then it will shut off then restart 5 seconds later Not sure if maybe I'm using the wrong pins for my GPU but I'm stumped can anyone help? PC in question: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KHD3Q5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_W9MVYQZYQJB34J0QFEJZ New Case + Cooling: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/NoWards/saved/#view=Nsy7RB I am also using these adapters to power my case fans, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086214KM...abc_QGWBM19NC8B5CA79KY1B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The main issue I'm coming across is finding out how my mobo connectors are supposed to look like since the mobo is OEM.... I'm lost and having a ** day because of this can anyone help
[SOLVED] Big issue with my case swap, need solid help.
- Thread starter MimeCA
- Start date
Solution
ohio_buckeye
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New Build Turns On, Shuts Off After A Few Seconds
Hey everyone, I just recently spent a long time assembling a new build (motherboard finally arrived today). ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229 Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge...
forums.tomshardware.com
This thread is like 10 years old, but it appears the issue was that they forgot to put the standoffs in the new case.
Also, sometimes the proprietary boards have weird pin outs for the front panel. Might see if an adapter is available.
Honestly at this point this <Mod Edit> motherboard is giving me so many headaches like it's so annoying just look at the manual above. The leds are somewhere else and it's just a <Mod Edit> the standoffs came installed with my case already the NR600 Those silver screw things or whatever I just placed the mobo on top and just screwed 6 out of the 8 standoffs since it's a micro board and one of the screws was stripped and I heard 6 was enough anyways.New Build Turns On, Shuts Off After A Few Seconds
Hey everyone, I just recently spent a long time assembling a new build (motherboard finally arrived today). ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229 Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge...
This thread is like 10 years old, but it appears the issue was that they forgot to put the standoffs in the new case.
Also, sometimes the proprietary boards have weird pin outs for the front panel. Might see if an adapter is available.
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ohio_buckeye
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Might want to make sure you don’t have one touching the bottom of your board that’s out of place. Potentially you could be shorting the board out.
6 is probably enough just so long as the board is stable.
6 is probably enough just so long as the board is stable.
ohio_buckeye
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For reference was trying to look up his motherboard, from the photos in the manual the op linked I think this is the board.
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c06633863
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c06633863
Surprisingly useful Mobo diagram here LOL
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c06592761.pdf
If everything was working PRIOR to your case swap its most likely a connection somewhere.
Start by unplugging everything and lets just do the bare minimum required to post. Might be helpful to remove the components from the case al together and do a test boot outside the case. It will be easier to see and make sure connections are secure. Place your motherboard on a piece of cardboard or something that won't short it or damage it. All numbered instructions are referencing the above link, page 2. I am assuming that CPU, CPU cooler, hard drive (m.2) and Ram are all properly installed
1.) Plug in 8 pin CPU power (#2)
2.) Plug in 24 pin Mobo power (#8)
3.) Plug in power button from case (#7)
4.) Plug in CPU cooler fan (#5)
5.) Insert GPU into PCIE Slot (#20), make sure it has all PCIE cables from the PSU plugged in.
If it has an M.2 NVME SSD, it will get its power through the Mobo, and you can ignore any secondary drives, assuming Windows installed on the NVME. If not make sure your hard drive has its connections (SATA / PSU Connection).
If it works great, gradually add back other connections, until is stops working.
If it doesn't, do you have an old PSU or GPU to swap in to see if it makes a difference?
If it doesn't, try Ram sticks one at a time in different slots.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c06592761.pdf
If everything was working PRIOR to your case swap its most likely a connection somewhere.
Start by unplugging everything and lets just do the bare minimum required to post. Might be helpful to remove the components from the case al together and do a test boot outside the case. It will be easier to see and make sure connections are secure. Place your motherboard on a piece of cardboard or something that won't short it or damage it. All numbered instructions are referencing the above link, page 2. I am assuming that CPU, CPU cooler, hard drive (m.2) and Ram are all properly installed
1.) Plug in 8 pin CPU power (#2)
2.) Plug in 24 pin Mobo power (#8)
3.) Plug in power button from case (#7)
4.) Plug in CPU cooler fan (#5)
5.) Insert GPU into PCIE Slot (#20), make sure it has all PCIE cables from the PSU plugged in.
If it has an M.2 NVME SSD, it will get its power through the Mobo, and you can ignore any secondary drives, assuming Windows installed on the NVME. If not make sure your hard drive has its connections (SATA / PSU Connection).
If it works great, gradually add back other connections, until is stops working.
If it doesn't, do you have an old PSU or GPU to swap in to see if it makes a difference?
If it doesn't, try Ram sticks one at a time in different slots.
ohio_buckeye
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ohio_buckeye
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This might be a dumb question, but when you attached the cpu fan, you did plug it’s fan into the cpu fan header? If it didn’t detect anything there, it wouldn’t start.
Start similar to what the other guy above said. I leave the board in the case but it may be necessary to pull the board also. Pull your graphics card, all but 1 stick of ram, and disconnect your drives. Leaving all fans connected should be fine. Plug into your onboard graphics.
Double check that you plugged in all power connections including the cpu power connector. It is the connector labeled 2 in the 2nd photo. Make sure your cpu cooler is seated correctly and that the fan for it is plugged into the cpu fan header. Looks to be #4 in the second photo.
Attempt to boot up. If it doesn’t give a display you may have to pull the board and try using a cardboard box like someone else said. If you get a display, shut off your system, add on your boot drive, if it boots, shut down and add more ram for example. Keep doing that process until you either have everything working, or until the system stops booting up. At least that way you will have a good idea why your system won’t boot.
Start similar to what the other guy above said. I leave the board in the case but it may be necessary to pull the board also. Pull your graphics card, all but 1 stick of ram, and disconnect your drives. Leaving all fans connected should be fine. Plug into your onboard graphics.
Double check that you plugged in all power connections including the cpu power connector. It is the connector labeled 2 in the 2nd photo. Make sure your cpu cooler is seated correctly and that the fan for it is plugged into the cpu fan header. Looks to be #4 in the second photo.
Attempt to boot up. If it doesn’t give a display you may have to pull the board and try using a cardboard box like someone else said. If you get a display, shut off your system, add on your boot drive, if it boots, shut down and add more ram for example. Keep doing that process until you either have everything working, or until the system stops booting up. At least that way you will have a good idea why your system won’t boot.
I think I found the issue.
View: http://imgur.com/gallery/s874lXO
There's a bolt under this standoff screw idk how this happened but I got no clue how to remove this bolt.
Okay so the GPU powers on, The CPU cooler is not mounted on the top of the CPU cooler either just connected to the side..
CPU cooler fan spins and its plugged into the cpu cooler fan mobo connection but the PC does the same thing stays on for about 15 seconds no display, then turns off and after 5 seconds on again.
Try not using the GPU.
The 10850k has integrated graphics so it should be able to boot. Looks like your mobo doesnt have a video out, so you won't get a picture, but you should be able to tell if the power still cuts off.
We can atleast eliminate one variable.
Did you try just one ram stick?
The 10850k has integrated graphics so it should be able to boot. Looks like your mobo doesnt have a video out, so you won't get a picture, but you should be able to tell if the power still cuts off.
We can atleast eliminate one variable.
Did you try just one ram stick?
Yeah same deal just tried one ram stick, Cooler turns on but turns off after about 15 seconds. I honestly really think that screw thats stuck on there with the bolt is causing a short and thats why not enough power is being distributed through the motherboard. No clue atp
Idk if should just buy a new mobo and PSU and call it a day since the mobo, PSU, and Ram are all like OEM HP stuff like made just for HP I don't think the ram is an issue but definitely the motherboard and possibly the PSU... the PSU is a coolermaster 80+ PLAT 750W PSU non modular tho.
That screw just looks like a proprietary stand off system that HP probably uses. Not sure that is the issue. I mean it was there in the old system right, not something you added.
Most likely scenario was that something was not connected properly on case migration, but even at bare minimum, outside the case it seems like is not the case.
Next most likely scenario is the mobo was damaged on the move.
Unless someone has other ideas, you can either re assemble in the old case and submit a warrant claim or just buy a new mobo, which honestly wouldn't be a bad idea anyway, because those OEM boards are usually junk.
The CM PSU is atleast a known brand.
Most likely scenario was that something was not connected properly on case migration, but even at bare minimum, outside the case it seems like is not the case.
Next most likely scenario is the mobo was damaged on the move.
Unless someone has other ideas, you can either re assemble in the old case and submit a warrant claim or just buy a new mobo, which honestly wouldn't be a bad idea anyway, because those OEM boards are usually junk.
The CM PSU is atleast a known brand.
That's the thing all the other screws I dont believe had that bolt under I think when I assembled it I incorrectly added that bolt as I swapped the case from the OEM HP case to a NR600
Yeah honestly I'm just better off getting a new MOBO... just the fact that the ram, and PSU says HP on it what if the PSU only worked with the old case like at this point I'm lost and I'm out of the return window I bought it on Amazon and there's no shot I can reassemble it into the old case.
Looks like I'm out of a PC...
Would you recommend a MOBO to me? And also possibly a PSU and Ram, its unfortunate I paid scalper price and now I have to pay more... The cooling in the old case was horrendous so I had no choice but to do this...
Mobo shopping has some subjectivity based on the features you would like. Determine the following:
Do you need wifi?
What speed ethernet do you need?
How many USBs are needed?
And to a lesser extent, is there a color scheme or theme you like
Any other special connectors needed USB typc, thunderbolt, etc.
Typically you are okay with any of a number of motherboards, but there are always 3-4 that end up being trash, which below will help you too avoid.
Once you have that info, spend some time watching these
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFNnekpGwSg
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nakLNkNwch8
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iLS3poPn8o
Do you need wifi?
What speed ethernet do you need?
How many USBs are needed?
And to a lesser extent, is there a color scheme or theme you like
Any other special connectors needed USB typc, thunderbolt, etc.
Typically you are okay with any of a number of motherboards, but there are always 3-4 that end up being trash, which below will help you too avoid.
Once you have that info, spend some time watching these
ohio_buckeye
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I apologize you’re having issues still. I would almost consider getting new board, possibly new power supply, and re use the cpu, ram, and gpu. Only other thing is going to be a new board well probably mean a new windows license since Microsoft locks the license to the hardware not to a key anymore.
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