Question Big RAM Headaches

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DefinitelyNotTom

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I bought RAM before realizing that some work better than others for certain cpus, mobos, etc... Now I have most parts and a real headache knowing what to do.

I bought F4-3200C15D-32GTZKW and am doing a 2700x build.

1. I have the fatal1ty x470 mobo, which lists a model exactly the same as that, EXCEPT the color letetrs at the end different. But even then it says it will run at 2933, not 3200.

2. Since I read that the mobo has popping sound issues in audio, I was going to buy the asus prime x470-pro. Well, the model isn't listed on tis QVL.

3. A model that IS on that QVL is CMR32GX4M2C3000C15. Well, on newegg that is around $400, but it ahs a "replacement model" that is under $200. But the replacement is obviously not listed on the QVL!

What am I supposed to do when manufacturers have so many kits they don't test? Heck, they abrely have ANY 32gb kits even listed on that QVL. This is a big reason why I keep wishing I had jiust built an intel.

My kit is samsung b die, so I guess I made a mistake listening to pep[le saying "any samsung b die will work well". I thought hey 15 latency will be better than 16, so then it turned out hardly anyone tests many 15 ones, they usually test more 16 and 14.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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Just because it's not on the QVL doesn't mean it won't work. I'd just try your current RAM with your new motherboard. As long as the RAM falls within the specs listed on the motherboard specs page, I'd bet it works well enough.

-Wolf sends
The problem, though, is if it doesn't work, then I can't resell the RAM as new, if I test it. What sucks, too, is I bought this RAM when the prices were still high, so even at 20% off it was around $330.

I've bought all parts, over time, and now I second guess them all, want to get better ones, sell them off, lose money, wasting all of my great deals. I have 2 HDDs I decided to replace with an extra ssd, I want a different case for less noise, different motherboard due to some issues reported on the asrock, and now this RAM concern.

All of those unopened parts... And to top that off I am second guessing going with amd, second guessing not waiting for 3700x if I do amd, etc...
 

Wolfshadw

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Nothing you can do about that, then, except learn. Never do a piecemeal build. Always wait to purchase components until you can afford the entire build.

I still say it will likely work and you're fretting over nothing, but if not... well, you learned something.

-Wolf sends
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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well, what I thought about doing was buy one from the QVL and sell mine. But the problem is they barely have anything on the list that is 32gb, good timings, and not so old that it is crazily priced due to being discontinued. Like the example corsair one I mentioned, where it's $400, yet its replacement is under $200.

I'm also going to be screwed if my case or motherboard have issues for whoever buys them for me, so I hope they're ok or I'll lose money there, too.

I could go the route of keeping the asrock mobo where I almost 100% know it will work, but at 2933 speed. But then the mobo issues...
 

DSzymborski

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I'd just try the RAM. Even selling it new, you'll have trouble getting the same price as stores, since you won't have the same 30-day return window and getting a warranty replacement could be difficult for whoever buys it from you.

As Wolf noted, this is the kind of thing that happens when you build a PC in stages. You'll usually end up paying more and you lose that free 30-day return window that is so important at times when building a PC. If there's something wrong with your motherboard and it's been more than 30-days, you have to deal with an RMA process rather than the easy, no questions asked, replacement policy from retailers like Newegg or Amazon.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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I'd just try the RAM. Even selling it new, you'll have trouble getting the same price as stores, since you won't have the same 30-day return window and getting a warranty replacement could be difficult for whoever buys it from you.
I know, but still would get more than listing it as used.

Pretty much on all aprts I am risking that if I seell them, which sucks, but I decided for the case and mobo it is worth it and if Ia end up screwed over, such as someone saying it was DOA, I guess nothing I can do there, but don't want to be unhappy with my build.

But on the RAM I haven't decided. I would certainly "doubt" that a kit that is ok on an asrock would fail to work properly on an asus, but who knows...
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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ok, as ridiculous as this is... the asus b450-i motherboard's QVL for the 2700x has ONLY 32GB ONE KIT ABOVE 3000 SPEED ON ITSD QVL. Ridiculous. So now if you have issues they can say well should have bought the ONLY ONE on that list.... And hilariously enough the one that IS on the list is latency EIGHTEEN 3200!!!!!

So what should I do? I have g.skill trident z 3200 latency of 15 samsung b die.

Should I risk it despite it not being on the list or should I spend $210 for a 3000 latency 15 kit that IS on the QVL, just to be safe?

I'd be going from 3200 c15 samsung b die to 3000 c15 probably hynix I am guessing by the timings...

What a joke that manufacturers get this type of out where you have almost no chopice of what to buy unless you want to be risky.

Even if you go down to 16gb kits they barely have any above 3200 on the list. there are some 32gb 3600 speed kits on sale right now, which would be tempting, but not on the QVL.

ps I think the x470-f had an even WORSE qvl. If I am not mistaken, it had a whole zero 32gb 3200 kits on it.
 

Dave8671

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I am sure you know that qvl is manufacturer ram compatible list. When I built my system I looked at the list gigabyte had and picked the brand that was on the list not the actual stick they tested. Nothing went wrong its been running for 3 months. Use it as refence with all the memory brands your not going to see every brand tested. I only need 8Gb though I may add another 8gb in the future.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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I am sure you know that qvl is manufacturer ram compatible list. When I built my system I looked at the list gigabyte had and picked the brand that was on the list not the actual stick they tested. Nothing went wrong its been running for 3 months. Use it as refence with all the memory brands your not going to see every brand tested. I only need 8Gb though I may add another 8gb in the future.
yeah, but my point is they have next to nothing listed if you go above 16gb, when obviously the mobo max being 32gb means some are going to use 32gb. technically, I probably don't need above 16gb, anyway, but I surely hate to go backwards and buy a 16gb kit after having bought the 32gb I'd have to sale off.

How hard is it to even notice if RAM is "stable" when using a pc?
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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Try it.

If it works, cool.

If it doesn't, buy the QVL listed parts.

It's not like you're going to destroy the MB by trying the memory you already have.
yeah that makes sense. buy only parts from a QVL that has no good 32gb kits on it. Spend a lot of money just to not be able to use above 16 gb RAM because asus doesn't want to test many kits, apparently. Not to mention the fact that then I'd be out the money for the kit I tried (bought it when RAM was high, so it was around $340) and it be worth less on ebay, due to having been used...

Funny how everyone kept insisting if I got Samsung b die, it would definitely work for ryzen 2, now people say get one of the barely any kits on the QVL. lol. If you go by QVL then nobody would be able to build a good build with an asus mobo.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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Well, the MB manufacturers don't sell RAM, so they have no incentive to keep testing. They test a few and then they are finished. Use a RAM configurator to find RAM that has been tested in your MB. The RAM manufacturer will guarantee compatibility, though I think Crucial only does so if you buy it directly from their website.

https://www.gskill.com/en/configurator



https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/advisor



https://www.corsair.com/us/en/memoryfinder
Thanks. Well, the g.skill one still shows a pathetic number of kits.

The corsair shows one where I found the same kit, but a different color (the whole model name is the same except the last letter, which is for color), for only $180. 3200 latency 16, whereas mine is latency 15 and Samsung b die...

Mine would still be better, though. And that other kit, that was listed right in the mobo QVL was same latency as mine, but was $210 and same thing in that it wa sliekly not Samsung b die...

So I am not sure whether to buy a kit that either the RAM manufacturer or mobo QVL lists or try mine, but if I try mine it would be used and sell for less afterwards and I have no idea how to even tell if my mobo is working right, plus I don't like changing out parts after the pc is running. So I maybe should get one I know will work...

On the corsair site, the "load more" isn't even working for me to see the whole list...
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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By the way the one that showed up on the corsair site doesn't even list any amd for supported types, despite it being in the results for my mobo… In other words, when searching via your link and selecting my mobo, it shows this kit and then when clicking on the kit for more info it only lists intel in the supported platforms.

And some of these kits showing up in the corsair search are outdated and cost seriously $700. lol.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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If I DO buy a kit that showed up forom that corsair memoery finder, I wonder which of the following I should do...

1. get the 3200 kit for $189 wehere everything was the same in the model number except the letter at the end, which I assume is only the color.

2. get the 3200 kit that is definitely the same exact model.... for $220.

3. get the 3000 kit that is on BOTH the corsair finder and on the QWVL from asus and is $210.

I bet all three will run at only 2933 anyway...
 
Funny how everyone kept insisting if I got Samsung b die, it would definitely work for ryzen 2, now people say get one of the barely any kits on the QVL. lol. If you go by QVL then nobody would be able to build a good build with an asus mobo.
To put this in perspective, I did buy B-dies for my R2 build, but they were on the mfr QVL, and they work on an R7-2700X construction.....buuuuuut....if you're doing a build and have already bought memory, the wise thing to do is check what you have anyway.

Lots of memory that is not on QVL-x|y|z will work just fine, and yes, it all comes down to the engineering data, and how well that coincides with the requirements | limitations of the MB it's going onto. Mfrs have a finite amount of time to do qualifying tests with memory products, so their QVLs will always be a subset of what will potentially work.

If you're looking at a prospective purchase for a build, then abide by the QVL and you won't waste your money; but don't let a QVL stop you from trying memory you already have which conforms to the specifications of what is on the QVL.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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I would try the RAM that you already have. If you bought DDR4 RAM for a DDR4 MB, 98% chance it will work fine.
The main problem there is I have never built before and am always worried if I change a part out I'll get shocked or something, once the pc has already been running to check if something works. That and the fact that if it didn't work I'd be screwed then reselling it as it would be used and probably already is a model many wouldn't rush to buy, although it is samsung b die and 15 latency 3200.

This is so frustrating. It's unbelievable how many tough decisions I keep having and having to sell off parts. To use 2 ssds at full 4.0x4 I have to compromise my gpu to x8. Due to design of the Nano S case, I can't use that case (didn't buy it, although did buy another case I don't want now). This RAM issue. The new 3700x coming out soon and me building with 2700x. I'm wasting so much money reselling parts. :( Oh and selling my mobo as I bought another.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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To put this in perspective, I did buy B-dies for my R2 build, but they were on the mfr QVL, and they work on an R7-2700X construction.....buuuuuut....if you're doing a build and have already bought memory, the wise thing to do is check what you have anyway.

Lots of memory that is not on QVL-x|y|z will work just fine, and yes, it all comes down to the engineering data, and how well that coincides with the requirements | limitations of the MB it's going onto. Mfrs have a finite amount of time to do qualifying tests with memory products, so their QVLs will always be a subset of what will potentially work.

If you're looking at a prospective purchase for a build, then abide by the QVL and you won't waste your money; but don't let a QVL stop you from trying memory you already have which conforms to the specifications of what is on the QVL.
If I try, it depreciates the value of it for resell is the only thing. At least I learned for next time if buying parts a few at a time to be sure enough about the ones that need to meet compatibilities. But this is a boatload loss in money if it doesn't work, as I paid around $340 before prices started dropping. Now you can get a kit with about the same specs for under $200.

I could ask g.skill or asus to try with it. Especially g.skill should have both the kit and mobo… because they list kits in their finder that supposedly work with it. But I am guiessing g.skill has some agenda because they told me I need something like the crosshair vii to best utilize the RAM. Now ay do you need a top of the line mobo for any kit to work well...
 
It all started wit 1st gen Ryzen not "liking" odd Cl numbers even if with b-die. That was specially with 300 series chipset. 2nd gen Ryzen and 400 series MBs fixed situation greatly. Another problem with 1st gen was difficulty to go over 2933MHz memory if both IMC channels were used. That is also much better with 2nd gen Ryzen, MBs and newer BIOS and AGESA code, Going over 32000MHz at those conditions is still troublesome.
Most manufacturers failed to update their memory QVL so it's not sure what would work properly and what not.
 
The main problem there is I have never built before and am always worried if I change a part out I'll get shocked or something, once the pc has already been running to check if something works.
All high voltages are confined to within the PSU....you don't need to be paranoid about things like that.

Educate yourself, instead of wringing your hands over what you don't currently know...the Internet is at your fingertips, and it is a boundless resource of knowledge. The only thing you should be careful of is sending a static charge into your motherboard or components. ----> https://www.dell.com/support/articl...working-with-electrical-equipment?lang=en#ESD <---- You have no excuse for not learning these things.

That and the fact that if it didn't work I'd be screwed then reselling it as it would be used and probably already is a model many wouldn't rush to buy, although it is samsung b die and 15 latency 3200.
If I try, it depreciates the value of it for resell is the only thing.

You're "screwed" once you've bought something computer-related, and the only person who will pay you full price for anything you have bought, even if it is by all appearances in the original box, and un-opened, is a fool.

It is already "used" even if you haven't installed it, because you have no way of ABSOLUTELY PROVING that it isn't used. That is the only "fact" that is germane to the situation you are currently in. Whatever you have bought is worth no more than 50% of what you paid for it. You might as well use it.

Unplug the power supply, open-up the computer, and get to working on it already.
 

DefinitelyNotTom

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It all started wit 1st gen Ryzen not "liking" odd Cl numbers even if with b-die. That was specially with 300 series chipset. 2nd gen Ryzen and 400 series MBs fixed situation greatly. Another problem with 1st gen was difficulty to go over 2933MHz memory if both IMC channels were used. That is also much better with 2nd gen Ryzen, MBs and newer BIOS and AGESA code, Going over 32000MHz at those conditions is still troublesome.
Most manufacturers failed to update their memory QVL so it's not sure what would work properly and what not.
yes, that is the problem is they have such outdated kits listed. btw, I don't want to push it to as far as it will go, necessarily. I only want the automatic profile or w/e to work. At the very least I want it to run at 2933, but hopefully the advertised 3200.

All high voltages are confined to within the PSU....you don't need to be paranoid about things like that.

Educate yourself, instead of wringing your hands over what you don't currently know...the Internet is at your fingertips, and it is a boundless resource of knowledge. The only thing you should be careful of is sending a static charge into your motherboard or components. ----> https://www.dell.com/support/articl...working-with-electrical-equipment?lang=en#ESD <---- You have no excuse for not learning these things.




You're "screwed" once you've bought something computer-related, and the only person who will pay you full price for anything you have bought, even if it is by all appearances in the original box, and un-opened, is a fool.

It is already "used" even if you haven't installed it, because you have no way of ABSOLUTELY PROVING that it isn't used. That is the only "fact" that is germane to the situation you are currently in. Whatever you have bought is worth no more than 50% of what you paid for it. You might as well use it.

Unplug the power supply, open-up the computer, and get to working on it already.
I dud "educate myself" and already knew that's what people say. HOWEVER, that is just one side of it, as there are other articles saying you need to hold onto something metal when working on a pc. And even someone from a pc repair shop said something to that effect.

Well a lot must be beyond fools, then, because some guy yesterday even kept insisting to me that you could buy a ssd anywhere and the manufacturer doesn't care and will honor the warranty even if it's a third party seller.

And I've already sold an ssd and a gpu on ebay. No not for full price I paid, but that is the same for any product, pc or not, people want deals if buying from ebay.

I already have to sell a mobo now, which is unopened. I have a case, as well, but it's so expensive to ship I am not sure what to do there. I'd RATHER not have to sell RAM, too.

My point remains the same, though. You are screwed MORE so when it's definitely used. Unopened RAM will sell for more than used RAM, easily, even on ebay. I'd probably be losing $50-$100 just by testing it.
 
1.The main problem there is I have never built before and am always worried if I change a part out I'll get shocked or something, once the pc has already been running to check if something works. That and the fact that if it didn't work I'd be screwed then reselling it as it would be used and probably already is a model many wouldn't rush to buy, although it is samsung b die and 15 latency 3200.

2.This is so frustrating. It's unbelievable how many tough decisions I keep having and having to sell off parts. To use 2 ssds at full 4.0x4 I have to compromise my gpu to x8. Due to design of the Nano S case, I can't use that case (didn't buy it, although did buy another case I don't want now). This RAM issue. The new 3700x coming out soon and me building with 2700x. I'm wasting so much money reselling parts. :( Oh and selling my mobo as I bought another.

1. Well. of course you're going to put in the new RAM with the PC turned off. The worst thing that will happen is that the PC won't post, i. e. power up. I think you have a 98% chance (maybe higher) of success with that RAM. That's pretty good :)

2. A GPU in a 3.0 x 8 slot only potentially runs a few percent slower than a GPU in a 3.0 x 16 slot, and that's only with a top tier GPU. A medium tier GPU will probably run the same in either slot.
 
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