[SOLVED] BIOS and Windows Trouble

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
First of all, I'd like to state that I'm not sure whether or not I am in the right forum.

I have a ROG G20AJ
Bios Version 0703 x64
Windows 10
Around 3 years of use.

A while ago, my pc would turn on but the CPU fans would instantly stop and I wouldn't be able to interact with anything at all, just an infinite loop of turning the monitor on and off. A friend of mine said it would happen with him whenever he disconnected the gpu or some other components for cleaning and that finding the CMOS battery and resetting the BIOS would usually solve it, so we did that and it worked.

Two days ago, my PC wouldn't turn on again, but I could access the BIOS, but my SSD (where I had my windows installed) wouldn't be an option in the boot options, even though it was recognized. After clicking directly on it, instead of really choosing it as an option, it would turn black and come back to the same interface, showing me that it wasn't being able to boot from there.

I took it apart, reset the battery, and came back in. This time I don't remember if I even got to see the BIOS interface, but it got to a point where I couldn't even see the image pop-up of the "Press F1 to enter the BIOS setup" and could only see an image for a fraction of a second which said "Press CTRL + I to enter configuration" and it turned out to be the Intel Rapid Storage Technology. In another post, someone told me to still smash the F1, even though the image didn't pop-up, and it did work and I was able to reach the BIOS interface.

I downloaded an image of Windows into a flash drive in hopes of formatting the whole thing. I had done this before and I knew how to do it and what I didn't know I searched for. In previous formats, I had to mess with the command prompt before starting the Windows setup. This time I had to do it, but for a new reason, I had to change my SSD out of GPT format (or into, one of them). Nevertheless, I was able to format both my SSD and HDD and start the installation of Windows 10, but, at some point, it needed to restart, which it did, but when it turned back on it didn't go into the windows setup interface, instead it entered the same infinite loop of turning my monitor on and off and in which I could never get into the BIOS interface, no matter how hard and for how long I tried smashing the F1 button.

So I decided I was gonna reset the battery again and try to mess a bit more with the boot priorities and so on.

So I did that and I got into the BIOS (I always can get into the BIOS the first time I boot the PC) and my flashdrive (where the image of windows is) had two options, both in the "Boot priorities" and in the "Manual boot option", one that read "UEFI (FAT) USB DISK 2.0" and one that just read " USB DISK 2.0" (yeah, it did have a "space" before the name), so I wasn't really sure which one it is, so I figured that if I put one over the other and disabled the other boot priority options it would try one and if it didn't work it'd try the other one. FYI, I put the one that said UEFI over the one that didn't. Then, as my experience with this BIOS, I had two options, either "Save and reset" or click on one of the manual options for booting. As I didn't really know which one to pick I figured I should let the boot priorities try both, so I saved and resetted, which restarted the computer but, lo and behold, it entered the same infinite loop of turning the monitor on and off and I can't reach the BIOS software no matter how hard and for how long I press the F1 key.

I even try and restart the PC, but once I get into this loop where I can't access the BIOS, I reach the conclusion only resetting the battery manually gives me the oportunity to try a different solution. Thing is, I've taken my PC apart like 4 times the last few days. And this is a factory build. Trust me, messing around with it sucks! I have to take basically everything out apart from my HDD.

Like, I usually don't get many answers, so I'll probably take it apart and try a different solution tomorrow, but I'll keep my wishful thinking that I'll get some kind of idea from one of you guys. If that's the case I'll be immensely appreciative.

Thank you very much,

Pedro

P.S. As I was unsure of where to post this, I figured guys who understand about motherboards and BIOS software will help me better than guys who understand Windows, as I think this is more of a BIOS problem than it is of Windows. I think.
Also, realistically, could it really be a problem with the CMOS Battery? I was under the impression it would most likely outlive my pc as a whole.
Also, this probably doesn't matter, but how can I know, from my BIOS interface or somewhere other than windows, if I'm running on Legacy BIOS or UEFI?
 
Solution
Should o still prioritize my HDD even if I'm installing windows on my SSD? Or in that case should I prioritize my SSD?
Yes. For the matter of windows install, I would physically disconnect the HDD so that the data on it will survive no matter what goes wrong with the installer.
And which USB should I put in second? The one which says "UEFI (FAT) USB DISK 2.0" or the one which just says " USB DISK 2.0"?
This is a function of your USB installation media, if it was created for UEFI, you pick UEFI, if not - legacy. You need to select the USB as a temporary boot device to boot from it so the installer starts. In general, if neither UEFI nor Legacy works - the install media is bad. Try re-creating the install media.

Again...
Well, when you get the option to enter BIOS next time,
  • turn fast boot off
  • set CSM to enabled (it might be the "legacy" option you mentioned)
  • change the boot order to use your hard drive first and only use USB as a temporary boot device to start the installation...
..and do fresh windows install. You can then go back and re-enable all that
 

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
Well, when you get the option to enter BIOS next time,
  • turn fast boot off
  • set CSM to enabled (it might be the "legacy" option you mentioned)
  • change the boot order to use your hard drive first and only use USB as a temporary boot device to start the installation...
..and do fresh windows install. You can then go back and re-enable all that

Should o still prioritize my HDD even if I'm installing windows on my SSD? Or in that case should I prioritize my SSD?

And which USB should I put in second? The one which says "UEFI (FAT) USB DISK 2.0" or the one which just says " USB DISK 2.0"?

Thank you, by the way, I'm going nuts with this.
 
Last edited:

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
Well, when you get the option to enter BIOS next time,
  • turn fast boot off
  • set CSM to enabled (it might be the "legacy" option you mentioned)
  • change the boot order to use your hard drive first and only use USB as a temporary boot device to start the installation...
..and do fresh windows install. You can then go back and re-enable all that

I couldn't find the CMS option, but I've set my SSD as the primary boot option and USB as the second one and upon saving the settings it won't boot and instead enter the infinite loop.

If, instead of saving, I click on the manual boot option of USB it enters the same infinite loop, forcing me to reset the bios, which I'm going to do the third time today.
 
Should o still prioritize my HDD even if I'm installing windows on my SSD? Or in that case should I prioritize my SSD?
Yes. For the matter of windows install, I would physically disconnect the HDD so that the data on it will survive no matter what goes wrong with the installer.
And which USB should I put in second? The one which says "UEFI (FAT) USB DISK 2.0" or the one which just says " USB DISK 2.0"?
This is a function of your USB installation media, if it was created for UEFI, you pick UEFI, if not - legacy. You need to select the USB as a temporary boot device to boot from it so the installer starts. In general, if neither UEFI nor Legacy works - the install media is bad. Try re-creating the install media.

Again, you have to turn all fast boot BIOS options to off. Also, turn PXE ROM and network booting to off.
Let's get to the point where the windows installer loads and starts to prompt you for stuff.
 
Solution

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
Yes. For the matter of windows install, I would physically disconnect the HDD so that the data on it will survive no matter what goes wrong with the installer.

I don't know how to disconnect my HDD but that won't be a problem, since I had already formatted it and losing data isn't an issue.

This is a function of your USB installation media, if it was created for UEFI, you pick UEFI, if not - legacy. You need to select the USB as a temporary boot device to boot from it so the installer starts. In general, if neither UEFI nor Legacy works - the install media is bad. Try re-creating the install media.

Again, you have to turn all fast boot BIOS options to off. Also, turn PXE ROM and network booting to off.
Let's get to the point where the windows installer loads and starts to prompt you for stuff.

I still don't know whether my BIOS is UEFI or Legacy, so I don't know which one to pick. Also, I couldn't find the CSM option no matter how much I searched. I always turn the Fast Boot Off though.
 
I still don't know whether my BIOS is UEFI or Legacy, so I don't know which one to pick. Also, I couldn't find the CSM option no matter how much I searched. I always turn the Fast Boot Off though.
Your BIOS is a UEFI, otherwise, you would not have the option to boot with UEFI.
Now the installation USB Drive can be either made to boot as UEFI or as Legacy. Hence
says "UEFI (FAT) USB DISK 2.0" or the one which just says " USB DISK 2.0"

I would create another windows installation USB media and try booting it as UEFI first, then if it does not work, try booting it as Legacy.
 

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
I would create another windows installation USB media and try booting it as UEFI first, then if it does not work, try booting it as Legacy.

I'm doing just that. When I get to the BIOS, I'll disable Fast Boot. Other than that should I mess around the boot priorities options or just manually click where it says UEFI USB DISK and prompt booting from there?
 

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
Yes. That one. It is a temporary boot option.
In the boot priority, you should have what you need long term - SSD 1st.
I downloaded another windows image, replacing the previous one.

Then I set SSD as the first and only option and prompted the boot from UEFI (FAT) USB DISK but it entered the infinite loop where I could no longer access BIOS.

I've hit a wall. I've taken everything apart like 10 times the past three days.

If you have any more ideas I'd be glad to try them out.
 

Gincal

Prominent
Jul 29, 2020
17
1
515
I would imagine it is frustrating. Well we know the UEFI option would not work, can you try
  • booting as legacy (not the uefi option)?
  • taking the SSD physically out and trying?
Things solved themselves out. I'm not sure what was it but I got there while using my second monitor instead of my first. After installing everything I connected the main one and they're both alright now. The first time that it happened I have no idea what it was, but I imagine that at some point it got fixed and I just didn't realize because the monitor wasn't being recognized or something like that.

Thank you so much anyway!
 
  • Like
Reactions: vov4ik_il