Brand new build locks up or blacks out every 10 minutes

[LuX0R]

Hey, how's it going? Hope the holiday season is going well so far for everyone..

I've got a "slight" problem with my latest build, I'm only able to boot into my OS for an average of 10 minutes before I either get a complete lockdown/freeze (forcing a hard reset), or I'll get a complete power loss, forcing a reboot.

I'm not doing anything intensive yet to strain any of the components (all new btw), I'm still in the midst of upgrading into Windows 10 (Comp usually dies @ 80% of install).

I've got the BIOS fully updated, as well as drivers, and supporting utilities for diagnostics from both the manufacturers of the MoBo and CPU respectively.

Maximum CPU temp output is 38C, but I attempted to reseat it anywats. I've also done RAM tests showing normal, but I still swapped out an older RAM stick from my old build to no avail. Same goes for the PSU (however the old 600W PSU did take me to a "solid" 30 minutes before a shutdown). I've heard that peripherals have caused instabilities too, so I've also changed out mouse and keyboards and swapped ports front to back including from USB 2.0 to 3.0.

My next test will be swapping out the GFX card, but I'm doubtful that would cause a complete freeze or shutdown on its own, but I'm also not as experienced as I'd like to be.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm leaning towards this being a MoBo issue, but I'd rather be sure before I commit to shipping it back..

Cheers!

CPU: AMD FX-8350 8-Core Black Edition
MB: ASUS μATX M5A78L-M
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR3 1600 MHz
GFX: GeForce GTX 1050 Ti ACX 3.0
SSD: Crucial MX300 750GB
PSU: EVGA White 500W
OS: (currently) Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit

 

[Lutfij]

1| Can you be a little more specific about the model of your motherboard(since there is an USB3.0 and LX version), the PSU since there are a number of 500W EVGA units and your chassis. I'm assuming you're on the stock cooling solution.

2| When you experience a freeze/lockup of your system, can you power your system back up soon after? If so how long can you run it for?

3| When running memory related diagnostics, use memtest86 and run it for at least 10 passes before you can rule out your ram kit as faulty or okay.

4| Have you ruled out your installer as being corrupt by recreating your installation disc/usb drive?

5| It might also be a good idea to borrow a PSU from your friend that is at least 550W and comes from a reliable brand often the PSU can come in as faulty. Breadboard the system to rule out any grounding issues.

6| Lastly, which drivers are your on?

 

[LuX0R]

1| Can you be a little more specific about the model of your motherboard(since there is an USB3.0 and LX version), the PSU since there are a number of 500W EVGA units and your chassis. I'm assuming you're on the stock cooling solution.

Absolutely, thank you! I'm using the USB3.0 version (Which does support my CPU, unlike the LX). My PSU is "EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 100-W1-0500-KR". My case is a "Cooler Master N200 - Mini Tower", with an additional 3rd fan, but beyond that yes it's only stock cooling.

2| When you experience a freeze/lockup of your system, can you power your system back up soon after? If so how long can you run it for?

Yeah, it can boot up again immediately without issue. There's no hangups or stalls either, it's pretty quick in that regard. I'm only getting an average of about 10 minutes per run prior to it freezing or powering off.

3| When running memory related diagnostics, use memtest86 and run it for at least 10 passes before you can rule out your ram kit as faulty or okay.

Alright thanks, I'll give that software a try and then report back. However, I did pull my two new sticks and tried a single old stick from my previous build, but it didn't solve my problem. I did ensure that the motherboard still supports the old RAM as well.

4| Have you ruled out your installer as being corrupt by recreating your installation disc/usb drive?

I've not ruled this out, but it certainly sounds like a good place to redraw my steps. I was having some issues in getting my USB drive to boot properly and had to use a few different sources before I could make my drive bootable.

5| It might also be a good idea to borrow a PSU from your friend that is at least 550W and comes from a reliable brand often the PSU can come in as faulty. Breadboard the system to rule out any grounding issues.

Yeah, I did hook up my 600W Thermaltake PSU from my old build, and it was able to give me the longest uninterrupted boot (about a half hour). However, the sample size using the old 600W PSU is only that one try at the moment. I've not tried breadboarding before, so I'll give it a shot.

6| Lastly, which drivers are your on?

I'm not sure what you mean? I was able to get to get all the latest Asus drivers for the motherboard peripherals including updating my BIOS prior to the OS install, I also have the latest software and drivers from GeForce for the videocard, also have utilities from AMD for the CPU.

I'm in the midst of trying to do a Windows Update to fix any other OS/software issues, but the computer conks out before it can identify all the updates it needs to do. I've also tried to bypass doing Windows Update altogether and go straight into a Windows 10 upgrade, but it also doesn't stay active long enough to complete that either.

I'm working shifts all weekend, I'll try your suggestions Monday and report back.

Thanks for the quick and thorough reply Lutfij!

 

[Lutfij]

I'm only getting an average of about 10 minutes per run prior to it freezing or powering off.

It's your PSU me thinks. Try and borrow a PSU of a higher quality and with your system breadboarded try and power things up.

What is the model of said Thermaltake Unit?

AMD platform drivers are different in the sense that they release a chipset driver every month. You should be on Crimson Version 16.12. I'm yet pinning the issue to your power if it holds up for 10 minutes and the power supply change allowed for a longer up time. Stick with tier 1 PSU's, although expensive, will ensure you get clean and reliable power to your system. As it stands, the processor is very power hungry and the lack of VRM heatsinks on the board leaves very little to ask for in terms of reliable power to your processor which could also be another culprit...the board.

First find out if the issue is with your OS or your components or their drivers since an OS change will not do any good other than wasting(precious) time.

You're welcome, just here to help! 😀

 

[LuX0R]

It's your PSU me thinks. Try and borrow a PSU of a higher quality and with your system breadboarded try and power things up.

Excellent!

I picked up a new Thermaltake 750W Copper PSU, breadboarded my build, and everything is working great! It's been powered on and upgrading to Windows 10 for over 6 hours now and have yet to experience a single freeze or power down.

The only real possibility now is that it was (as you said) most likely a shoddy or insufficiently powered PSU... it may have also been a bad ground or some sort of short on the mount in the tower, maybe even a bad connection from the front tower/switches to the MoBo? The only other difference is that the video card isn't installed yet, but that's highly unlikely to be the problem.

Regardless, it's clear to me now that breadboarding first before adding each component and testing them incrementally is definitely the right way to build from now on. It's way easier to troubleshoot and avoid disaster!

I was under the assumption that 500W was going to be plenty for these components, considering that the video card didn't need supplemental power (unlike my last few builds). It's also my first build without any disk-drives or a HDD (finally able to afford SSD!). I used OuterVision® Power Supply Calculator to estimate my requirements and added almost 100W extra to be safe. Oh well! 750W is most likely overkill but as is, it's immeasurably better than a non-functioning dud!

Thanks a ton Lutfij, your efforts are much appreciated my friend!

Have a happy holiday! Cheers

 

[Lutfij]

Wattage isn't the only factor you need to consider before buying a unit but including the brand and quality of the unit. Even if a PSU that has a stickered info of providing 650W of power yet lacks the internal componentry to provide 650W of power, then you(and the unit)'re in a contradictory point.

Again, I asked to borrow a PSU not buy a PSU of higher wattage. BTW Thermaltake PSU's aren't that reliable unless you're looking at the most expensive units. Did you go through the PSU tier list I linked above? I'm also assuming the copper isn't copper, it's more like 80+ Bronze rated. Please read through this. Mind passing on the model number for the new PSU?

Thank you for awarding my post as the best Answer, it's much appreciated!