Question BSOD and BCD Errors After Upgrading to Ryzen 7 5800x

[Sinarta120]

Hello everyone,

I recently upgraded my CPU from a Ryzen 5 1600x to a Ryzen 7 5800x. Since then, I’ve experienced system instability and random crashes “page fault in non paged area” and “driver overran stack buffer”. As the crashes got more and more frequent I decided I should do a system restore. Attempting a Windows reinstallation, I’ve now ended up in a BSOD loop with the “critical process died” error (Error code: 0xc000001) and a subsequent error indicating “boot configuration data file doesn’t contain valid information for an operating system” (File:/bcd, Error code: 0xc0000098).

Upon checking, I’ve noticed several Windows files, including regback, are missing or corrupted. I’ve used a bootable USB to try sfc, bootrec ,chkdsk, and rebuilding the BCD. However, when trying to adjust attributes with the command ‘attrib E:\boot\BCD -h -r -s’, I get a ‘path not found’ error.

For context, I’m using a UEFI system. I’ve also toggled CSM support and secure boot off and on with no avail. Importantly, a fresh Windows installation isn’t an option as I have crucial work files I need to recover. I’ve tried creating a new partition on my SSD for a fresh Windows install(in order to transfer any missing files to the old OS), but I believe there are GPT vs. MBR issues. My Hard drive is supported but there was an error when I tried to shrink a 30GB volume for it.

Here are my system specs:

• Motherboard: Aorus Pro B450
• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
• GPU: RTX 2070
• RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB (XMP enabled at 3.2GHz, also tried disabling)
• Storage:
• 1Tb NVMe WDC (boot drive)
• 1Tb HDD
• 250gb SSD

Any guidance on this would be immensely appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

[Darkbreeze]

What is the current motherboard BIOS version?

 

[Sinarta120]

What is the current motherboard BIOS version?

Either F63 or F64E. I updated it recently for the zen 3 support (before I made the upgrade)

 

[Darkbreeze]

Any idea what BIOS was installed before you updated?

Did you install the EC FW update tool as explicitly outlined in the BIOS update release notes for any board that was not already on version F40 or higher?

 

[Sinarta120]

Any idea what BIOS was installed before you updated?

Did you install the EC FW update tool as explicitly outlined in the BIOS update release notes for any board that was not already on version F40 or higher?

I am fairly certain I did, I did both that and the Q flash to the bios update (likely f40) that provided the future zen support before going on to the latest. Is there any way to verify this? I cant get into windows at all because I am in a BSOD loop.

 

[Dark Lord of Tech]

PSU?

 

[Sinarta120]

PSU?

My initial assumption is that it wouldn’t be a hardware problem but this may be a factor.

My PSU is Evga 600 W1, 80+ White 600W. It’s quite old and acommodated for my 1600x well. I did an stable undervolt (PB02) and running it on eco mode at 65W.

I was getting crashes regardless though, the most recent being a result of trying to mess with the windows installation leading to a bsod loop (I can’t even get into safe mode)

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, regardless that you didn't previously have problems with it, that is an extremely terrible model of power supply, PLUS with it now being "quite old" and having a heap of miles on it that just compounds the probability. Old PSU plus wasn't very good to begin with and now you're running a higher TDP processor, which makes it a lot more possible that it's a PSU issue.

Did you buy this CPU new or used, and from where?

What CPU cooler are you running, the stock cooler or something else?

 

[Sinarta120]

So, regardless that you didn't previously have problems with it, that is an extremely terrible model of power supply, PLUS with it now being "quite old" and having a heap of miles on it that just compounds the probability. Old PSU plus wasn't very good to begin with and now you're running a higher TDP processor, which makes it a lot more possible that it's a PSU issue.

Did you buy this CPU new or used, and from where?

What CPU cooler are you running, the stock cooler or something else?

I recently bought a new AMD Ryzen 5800x processor from Amazon and installed a Cooler Master CPU cooler, specifically the Hyper 212 model, which understandably is not the best cooler available but was part of a build I made nearly 5 years ago. Initially, the temperatures were high when running the processor at its default settings (80 at load). However, after enabling eco mode and PBO2 with a negative offset of around -20, the temperatures improved, and it now runs at around 70 degrees Celsius under full load.

I didn’t encounter many issues at first, except for a specific game that required me to enable secure boot, which led to crashes with error messages like “page fault in non-paged area” and “driver overran stack buffer.” Crashes were infrequent and the only reason why I tried to play with the windows installation is that I was crashing maybe every 2-3 hours of use.

Now, my main problem is that I’m stuck in a BSOD loop, and I can’t perform a system restore using “rstrui.exe” due to the error “0x80070002 system failed while restoring the registry.” However, I do have backups of my registry in the documents folder and can access them.

Although I plan to upgrade both the CPU cooler and the PSU, my priority right now is resolving the BSOD loop as I have urgent deadlines to meet, and all my work is saved on the affected system.

Do you know what I have to do to fix the boot issues? Thank you for your assistance.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, "Full load" is highly subjective. Some people consider full load to be running their hardest game or running something like Cinebench. That is not a full load. A full load MUST be "steady state" and games or programs like Cinebench do not offer a steady state all core load. Only programs like Prime95, Heavyload, OCCT, etc. offer a full load and none of them is as widely accepted as the industry standard as Prime95 Small FFT.

So my question to that would be WHAT were you using to determine your thermal readings under a full load? If you WERE using Small FFT, then so long as you did not exceed 80 degrees running Small FFT for 15 minutes, with ALL AVX options (AVX, AVX2, AVX512) disabled, then you are totally thermally compliant. Running at 70 degrees does not offer any benefit over running at 80 degrees so as long as you don't exceed 80-85°F under actual full load testing, there is no problem and therefore no reason to hamstring your system by running ECO mode or configuring an offset except where AVX options are known to be a factor. Even so, you'd want to configure the AVX offset in the BIOS in most cases.

Fixing the boot issues is almost certainly going to require that you stop trying to use saved system images and backups. My guess is something is wrong with the backup or it's not compatible with the current BIOS configuration. In cases like this I always recommend doing a clean install. In fact, if we're being honest, unless you have a KNOWN good system image created from a backup like Macrium reflect or Acronis true image, I don't ever recommend it anyhow. Windows restore has never been proven to me to work correctly as 90% of systems with problems that I've tried to restore using their system restore image have never worked properly. And practically everybody I've ever helped here who has tried to use it has discovered the same thing. Some people insist on using it, myself, I disable system restore on every system I install Windows on unless the owner specifically insists on having it left enabled, because it cleans up the use of system resources and eliminates periodic lagging when system restore is creating backups while you're trying to do other things, and recommend them to simply get ACTUAL backup software and create at least weekly backup images to a drive other than the one the OS is installed on, because it's FAR more reliable than anything Windows offers.

Also, make sure you get your drivers ONLY from the AMD (Chipset driver) and Gigabyte (network including LAN or WiFi if equipped, audio and bluetooth) product support website pages and make sure you get the driver for the correct VERSION of Windows as many Windows 10 and 11 drivers are different, even for the same product or device.

What you LIKELY are going to need to do is buy a new drive, do not try creating another Windows installation on the same drive where one already exists as that is never going to work properly, or at all, and then install a fresh copy of Windows to that drive and THEN after doing so, copy your needed work files from the old drive to the new one and reinstall whatever programs you use to work with those files on the new Windows drive.

At this point it sounds like you've tried so many different things on this drive that it's probably beyond working correctly now but if you can get into Windows and run DISM restore you might be able to get your current installation working again, but I'm doubtful, and with a boot loop that you can't get around it seems even more unlikely. If you have not tried getting into Windows with safe mode, that might be the next step.