[SOLVED] BSOD: Happens a lot. Tried different tests. (.dmp files included)

r3faat1

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Aug 28, 2012
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My PC is getting BSOD every day and I have no idea why. Usually, the BSOD happens when I am returning the computer from SLEEP mode or Hibernate mode. Sometimes, when I am away from computer for 2 - 3 hours (and the monitor goes off), and when I come back to it, the monitor does not start back up (no signal coming back from computer even though it's still running). I have to force restart it.

The computer works fine when I am using it constantly, however, there is a problem if I leave it alone for awhile, or if it's coming back from sleep/hibernate. I have no idea what's going on.

I'm not overclocked. I've ran Memtest86 for 8 hours, 0 errors. I've ran Prime95 for 30 mines, works fine. I've ran Heaven Bench for 30 minutes, still fine.

Can anyone look at my .dmp files and offer suggestions on what might be causing the issue? Some of the errors I'm getting are: "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL".
Google Drive - .dmp files

These are the BSOD from the last 3 days. All 3 of them happened right after returning from Hibernation. The 2nd one (2/6/19) shows BSOD might have been caused by Flux? So, I've uninstalled Flux, however, it happened again today without Flux.

My system:
CPU: Ryzen 7 1700
MB: MSI B350M Gaming PRO (MS-7A39)
PSU: TPD-0750M
GPU: GTX1060 (ARMOR 3G OCV1

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
Have you run MSI Live Update 6 on Motherboard (it is in the utilities section of support page for motherboard), it will check your board is using the latest drivers and suggest updates if they exist.

I have sent link to a friend who will convert dumps into a format I can read.

IRQ errors are usually drivers.
 

gardenman

Splendid
Moderator
Hi, I ran the dump files through the debugger and got the following information: https://pste.eu/p/3464.html

File: 020719-8687-01.dmp (Feb 7 2019 - 17:39:55)
BugCheck: [IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (A)]
Probably caused by: memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 21 Hour(s), 25 Min(s), and 18 Sec(s)

File: 020619-8812-01.dmp (Feb 6 2019 - 20:07:42)
BugCheck: [KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE (139)]
Probably caused by: memory_corruption (Process: conhost.exe)
Uptime: 1 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 59 Min(s), and 51 Sec(s)

File: 020519-7781-01.dmp (Feb 5 2019 - 11:45:00)
BugCheck: [PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA (50)]
Probably caused by: memory_corruption (Process: flux.exe)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 1 Hour(s), 44 Min(s), and 24 Sec(s)

BIOS information was not included in the dump file. This can sometimes mean an outdated BIOS is being used.

I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information soon. Please wait for more answers. Good luck.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
so many VM ware/symantic drivers... not the problem, just makes it hard to see others.

So any driver made by June 2015 isn't a win 10 driver and could be cause of the Sleep problem.
Scarlet crush can cause bsod, its also from 2013. Used mostly for Playstation controllers
TAP-Win32 Virtual Private Network Driver 0901 (OpenVPN by OpenVPN Technologies) is from 2014
Broadcom Bluetooth Firmware Download Filter driver is from March 2015
 

r3faat1

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Aug 28, 2012
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Thanks @Colif, I will run that program soon. I've uninstalled Flux, and uninstalled that PS4 controller driver. The error still happens.

The error is happening often, so I've included 2 more new dump files on my shared drive. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1YmcsXNbjMbBlVnO97tLf6tsLEPIKFsQw?usp=sharing

I know exactly how to reproduce this error every time. 2 things always causes this error 100% of the time.

1. Return from sleep/hibernate mode after it has been in that mode for over 20+ minutes.
2. Turn the computer on and leave it idle for 20+ minutes. Then the BSOD appear 100% of the time.

Please note, when I am constantly using the computer, I can use it for 8 hours even without any BSOD most of the time. However, as soon as I stopped using for say 20+ minutes, an BSOD occurs.

Could this be a problem with PowerSupply? Maybe after it's in idle mode, it tries to provide less power or something, which is why Windows crashes?

P.S. I've even set the power plan to run at high performance and disabled "Turn monitor/hardware off after xxx minutes". Error still happens.
 

r3faat1

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Aug 28, 2012
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Sorry about that, please try again. I updated it. It shows 2 additional dumps from yesterday and 3 new dumps today (2/9/18).

Today was awfully bad, it took me 3 tries to even login to Windows.

I would be willing to replace parts but I have no idea which parts is at fault. I'll run another Memtest86 tonight and make sure there are no errors.

P.S. Here is my full computer info: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/SHkDg8VaeDZHb0UjfDpWnfH
 

gardenman

Splendid
Moderator
I ran the new dump files through the debugger and got the following information: https://pste.eu/p/aZVI.html

File: 020919-9000-01.dmp (Feb 9 2019 - 17:21:09)
BugCheck: [IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (A)]
*** WARNING: Unable to verify timestamp for SRTSP64.SYS
Probably caused by: memory_corruption (Process: taskhostw.exe)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 23 Sec(s)

File: 020919-11375-01.dmp (Feb 9 2019 - 17:20:21)
BugCheck: [KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (1E)]
Probably caused by: memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 00 Min(s), and 04 Sec(s)

File: 020819-9125-01.dmp (Feb 8 2019 - 10:04:13)
BugCheck: [IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (A)]
Probably caused by: ntkrnlmp.exe (Process: System)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 34 Min(s), and 55 Sec(s)

File: 020819-9062-01.dmp (Feb 9 2019 - 01:20:06)
BugCheck: [IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (A)]
Probably caused by: ntkrnlmp.exe (Process: System)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 0 Hour(s), 40 Min(s), and 58 Sec(s)

File: 020819-8703-01.dmp (Feb 8 2019 - 05:11:32)
BugCheck: [KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (1E)]
Probably caused by: ntkrnlmp.exe (Process: System)
Uptime: 0 Day(s), 5 Hour(s), 50 Min(s), and 06 Sec(s)
I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information soon. Please wait for more answers. Good luck.
 

Colif

Win 11 Master
Moderator
SRTSP64.SYS - The process known as Symantec AutoProtect belongs to software Symantec Real Time Storage Protection

Try taking Symantec off, the last error was caused by it. I was going to suggest it anyway as half the loaded drivers are Symantec and even if its not cause, having less loaded will reduce the ones we can blame if it continues.

Can you take the VMWare off as well if removing Norton doesn't help?

Otherwise I was going to suggest running Driver verifer as it will tell us what windows thinks is wrong.

Before running this,
1) search for “Create a restore point” and create a restore point
2) Create a bootable USB of Win 10 installer to use as a boot drive. download the Windows 10 media creation tool and use it to make a win 10 installer on USB

try running driver verifer, just read the instructions carefully. It is part of win 10 designed to find misbehaving drivers. It will cause BSOD, that is its job since it tests drivers.
Once it bsod, upload the minidump file and we see what it shows us.


Steps 1 & 2 are just precautions as sometimes driver verifer can put you in a boot loop. If this happen, follow these steps to get out of it
change boot order so USB is first, hdd second
boot from installer
on screen after languages, choose repair this pc, not install.
choose troubleshoot
choose advanced
choose system restore and roll system back to restore point created in step 1. PC should boot normally.
 

r3faat1

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Aug 28, 2012
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My problem seems to have been fixed. I've concluded it to be a hardware related issue. I assumed it was either a Motherboard or the Power Supply. I've replaced the following parts:

Motherboard: MSI B350M Gaming PRO (MS-7A39) -> ASRock B450M Pro4
PSU: Thermaltake TPD-0750M -> MPX-6501-AMAAB

Both the Motherboard and Thermertake PSU had bad reviews and I suspected it was either one of them. After replacing the parts, computer is working fine. No BSOD, no freezes, or anything thus far.
 

r3faat1

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Aug 28, 2012
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I've got another update. My new mobo became defective within few days. I blame my new Cooler Master PSU. So, I've decided why not give my old mobo one last try. Well, it's working perfectly again. This time I'm using Seasonic Focus Plus 750W power supply and my old motherboard MSI B350M Gaming PRO (MS-7A39), which I thought was defective. So, 2 things learned:

#1. My motherboard was completely fine. The issue was completely because of the PSU.

#2. DO NOT cheap out on the PSU. Thermaltake or Cooler Master are not even good enough. Pay that extra $50 if you need to and get something super reputable like Seasonic or EVGA. That extra $50 will save you literally days worth of headache and wasted time.
 
You are not wrong in that regard, which is why I said it was likely due to the power supply, and why I generally post this in most power supply related threads when it's relevant. In this case, you already found out what I usually have to twist arms in order to get people to understand. If you care to read it, you can click the spoiler link below.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.


I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 
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