[SOLVED] Budget PSU to replace my trash one

[ThilakRoX]

CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G

RAM
8.00GB Single-Channel Unknown (16-16-16-39)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. A320M-HD2-CF (AM4)
Graphics

4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti (ASUStek Computer Inc)

Storage
111GB Western Digital WDC WDS120G2G0A-00JH30 (SATA (SSD)) 42 °C

1TB seagate barracuda 5.4

current psu - Cooler MASTER masterwatt lite 500w

my hdd died recently and people blame it on my psu saying its trash.

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

which tier psu and watts should i go with for my current setup, pls suggest the cheapest one

 

[logainofhades]

This one would be plenty good enough, for your current setup. Also, do yourself a favor and get a matching stick of ram, for dual channel. You are killing your performance, running a single stick of ram.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $59.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-10-15 09:10 EDT-0400

 

[ThilakRoX]

do yourself a favor and get a matching stick of ram, for dual channel. You are killing your performance, running a single stick of ram.

would love to but cant afford it

Power Supply: EVGA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)

this psu isnt available in any online stores in india ill check it with offline stores, can u tell which tier psu should i be looking at and how much watts so i can show the list to the offline stores if the one u metioned isnt available and also i can compare and get the cheapest one among the list

 

[logainofhades]

What is your budget, in your currency?

 

[ThilakRoX]

What is your budget, in your currency?

Around 3000inr

 

[logainofhades]

At that cost, all you are going to do is trade one junk PSU, for another.

 

[ThilakRoX]

At that cost, all you are going to do is trade one junk PSU, for another.

Umm that is why I am asking which tier and how much watts should I be looking at so I can compare the prices on offline store and get the cheapest one

 

[DSzymborski]

In a real pinch, as long as you continue to use a GPU that does not require supplementary power, you could go with a Tier C PSU, though I personally would try and avoid that if possible.

 

[ThilakRoX]

In a real pinch, as long as you continue to use a GPU that does not require supplementary power, you could go with a Tier C PSU, though I personally would try and avoid that if possible.

What's a gpu that doesn't require supplementary power? Does mine need anything?

 

[logainofhades]

I no longer use tier lists, as they tend to be horribly out of date, or flat out wrong, in their scoring. If you insist, I would say a tier b, 450w+, at minimum.

 

[ThilakRoX]

I no longer use tier lists, as they tend to be horribly out of date, or flat out wrong, in their scoring. If you insist, I would say a tier b, 450w+, at minimum.

Ok thanks I'll check it, the tier list says it was updated on 7/2021

 

[geofelt]

Here is a handy chart for psu sizing:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
If your GTX1050ti has a good factory overclock, it will have a 6 pin aux connector and need more than minimal power.

Size your psu for the long term, in particular for any graphics cards that you may upgrade to.
I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say by 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

The good thing is that there is often a minimal price difference between say a 550w psu and a 650w psu.

Do your best and do not buy a cheap psu.
A cheap PSU will be made of substandard components. It will not have safety and overload protections.
The danger is if it fails under load, it can destroy anything it is connected to.
It will deliver advertised power only at room temperatures, not at higher temperatures found when installed in a case.
The wattage will be delivered on the 3 and 5v rails, not on the 12v rails where modern parts
like the CPU and Graphics cards need it. What power is delivered may fluctuate and cause instability
issues that are hard to diagnose.
The fan will need to spin up higher to cool it, making it noisy.
A cheap PSU can become very expensive.

Do not buy one.

Consider a quality psu as a long term investment.
Buy one with a 7 to 10 year warranty and you can plan on using it for several generations of builds.

 

[jayjr1105]

Here is a handy chart for psu sizing:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm
If your GTX1050ti has a good factory overclock, it will have a 6 pin aux connector and need more than minimal power.

Size your psu for the long term, in particular for any graphics cards that you may upgrade to.
I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say by 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

The good thing is that there is often a minimal price difference between say a 550w psu and a 650w psu.

Do your best and do not buy a cheap psu.
A cheap PSU will be made of substandard components. It will not have safety and overload protections.
The danger is if it fails under load, it can destroy anything it is connected to.
It will deliver advertised power only at room temperatures, not at higher temperatures found when installed in a case.
The wattage will be delivered on the 3 and 5v rails, not on the 12v rails where modern parts
like the CPU and Graphics cards need it. What power is delivered may fluctuate and cause instability
issues that are hard to diagnose.
The fan will need to spin up higher to cool it, making it noisy.
A cheap PSU can become very expensive.

Do not buy one.

Consider a quality psu as a long term investment.
Buy one with a 7 to 10 year warranty and you can plan on using it for several generations of builds.

Even dumpster quality PSU's have the few basic protections like OCP, OVP, SCP, etc. Tier C and even D can be perfectly fine units if not stressed too hard as long as they aren't a really bad topology like group regulation.

 

[ThilakRoX]

Even dumpster quality PSU's have the few basic protections like OCP, OVP, SCP, etc. Tier C and even D can be perfectly fine units if not stressed too hard as long as they aren't a really bad topology like group regulation.

Mine is master watt lite which falls under tier D why would u say it's fine when everyone else trashing it

 

[jayjr1105]

Mine is master watt lite which falls under tier D why would u say it's fine when everyone else trashing it

I didn't say every C and D tier is fine but a select few that aren't group regulated will be perfectly fine for mid/low end systems. I used a C tier Rosewill 750w power supply for nearly 4 years with a Vega56 and Ryzen CPU with zero issues. It misses B tier because it doesn't have OTP protection.

 

[DSzymborski]

What's a gpu that doesn't require supplementary power? Does mine need anything?

A GPU that requires an additional power connector from the PSU and isn't powered from the PCIE slot. Most, but not all 1050 Tis do not require supplementary power.

GPUs that are powered only from the PCIE slot are relatively low power without high consumption peaks, so you can kind of get away with a slightly lower-quality PSU, even though I wouldn't recommend it. And I mean slightly; the Masterwatt Lite is in the do not buy tier for anything but a very basic PC with no GPU.