Question Building new PC some time this year. Any advice appreciated

[testtube5]

Current PC is about 5 years old now (Old / current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/h3Wr6R), so I'm getting back into researching since taking that time off. I'll be building this new PC within the next 2-6 months, and I put together this rough draft:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KRX6C6

(Edit: honestly I may as well just get the 13900k, all else the same though)

This will be my home build, used for everything I can throw at it. I'll game occasionally but mainly I need it for complex poker solver simulations. This is CPU intensive and requires an absurd amount of RAM (I'll be throwing an additional 64gb on there within a month or two of building it).

I'm just now learning DDR5 is a thing and I'm not entirely sure what speed to go for. I threw in that overkill power supply for upgradability just in case I decide to buy a more beefy graphics card (otherwise I'm just gonna re-use my current one) and whatever else.

Back when I built my current PC AMD was king but I still was stubborn and went Intel for the CPU, I forget why, but it looks like Intel is back on top if I'm not mistaken?

Anyway, if I can get the remaining unpurchased pieces under 1500$ that'd be great, but no big deal if not. I'm mostly trying to see if there's a better MB choice I can go for, if I should be going all out on RAM clock speed and if so where exactly that limit is, and I'm all ears if anyone points out anything else I should be considering.

 

[Eximo]

8th gen? That would have been around Ryzen 3000, not exactly amazing, but certainly viable. AMD had their mid-range with 6 cores 12 threads, for Intel you had to have i7, and the i5 didn't have hyper threading. Now even the low end Intel chips have HT just like AMD kicked off with Ryzen 1000.

I would stick with the RM750x until you actually decide to get a new GPU. No reason to buy a high end PSU at these prices.

You are on the right track with memory. Normally I would say 6000 or 6400, but if you are going for four sticks, you may even have trouble running at 5600. First generation and with these speeds, mixing memory kits is even less reliable.

AMD is still a good option right now. 7950X is a full 16c/32t core vs the 8P/8E (16c/24t) of the 13700k. The 13900K gains 8 more E cores for 16cores/32 threads, but 16 of those cores are single threaded.

Intel Core i9-13900K vs AMD Ryzen 9 7950X [cpubenchmark.net] by PassMark Software

So you trade a little bit of single core performance for multithreaded performance or vice versa.

 

[GarrettL]

Current PC is about 5 years old now (Old / current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/h3Wr6R), so I'm getting back into researching since taking that time off. I'll be building this new PC within the next 2-6 months, and I put together this rough draft:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KRX6C6

This will be my home build, used for everything I can throw at it. I'll game occasionally but mainly I need it for complex poker solver simulations. This is CPU intensive and requires an absurd amount of RAM (I'll be throwing an additional 64gb on there within a month or two of building it).

I'm just now learning DDR5 is a thing and I'm not entirely sure what speed to go for. I threw in that overkill power supply for upgradability just in case I decide to buy a more beefy graphics card (otherwise I'm just gonna re-use my current one) and whatever else.

Back when I built my current PC AMD was king but I still was stubborn and went Intel for the CPU, I forget why, but it looks like Intel is back on top if I'm not mistaken?

Anyway, if I can get the remaining unpurchased pieces under 1500$ that'd be great, but no big deal if not. I'm mostly trying to see if there's a better MB choice I can go for, if I should be going all out on RAM clock speed and if so where exactly that limit is, and I'm all ears if anyone points out anything else I should be considering.

Intel and AMD cpu's are quite simialr in gaming performance. No bad choice.

 

[punkncat]

Come back and inquire about your build parameters when you are READY to pull the trigger, cash in hand (as it were). Planning even a few days ahead can change the pricing significantly, and months the whole scope.

 

[testtube5]

Come back and inquire about your build parameters when you are READY to pull the trigger, cash in hand (as it were). Planning even a few days ahead can change the pricing significantly, and months the whole scope.

I would stick with the RM750x until you actually decide to get a new GPU. No reason to buy a high end PSU at these prices.

I'll certainly be coming back for confirmation / advice when I'm ready to make the full purchase. The bulk of it I need some more time, but a few of these components I'm going to be buying right away (I just bought that Noctua cooler yesterday after my own AIO died).

The PSU is one of the parts I was considering buying right now actually. I'm reading that I should consider replacing a PSU after ~5 years and it's been about that. As you suggest Eximo I would just re-use the current PSU in the new build at first if I planned on buying a new GPU close to the time that I built the new rig, but it could be another several years before I replace the GPU. I do play some games but I don't really mind using lower graphics settings (within reason). I just figured if I was going to buy a new PSU anyway I might as well get the larger capacity one.

If I did decide to just use the current 750w PSU in the new build to start off, is there any potential danger to the new parts should this PSU fail?

 

[Why_Me]

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Best Buy)
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: *MSI MAG B760 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($199.99 @ B&H)
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Case: *Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: *Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
Total: $1069.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-04-26 20:05 EDT-0400

 

[ilukey77]

Id go AM5 for life span LGA 1700 is nearly dead now ..
for future proofing a system AM5 is the way to go ( i have nothing against Intel cpus just their <Mod Edit> socket life span)
7900x 7950x or the 7900 for the cheaper option ..
if you go AMD cl30 6000 is the sweet spot and 6400 is the highest you can go on AM5
what ive seen Intel ddr5 seems to get better and better the higher speed but the price gets higher and higher
at the very least for a GPU go a 16gb card nothing 8gb just for a little better future proofing ..
Intel ARC 770 are doing quite good in some production work and in gaming its okay.. but better than a 2070..
nothing wrong with a 1000w psu but 850w platinum unless a 4090 is your beefy gpu upgrade
arctic freezer ii every day of the week by far the best of the best at price and performance ( not the prettiest ) but amazing cooler i swear by them ..
as for a motherboard if AMD go a x670e maybe something with a few m.2 slots my ROG gene has 3 1 gen 5 on board and the other is a gen z.2 which allows me 2 extra m.2 slots with 1 being gen 5 m.2

2 things i always overkill is cpu cooling and psu !!

 

[Eximo]

If I did decide to just use the current 750w PSU in the new build to start off, is there any potential danger to the new parts should this PSU fail?

RM750x has a ten year warranty. My RM850X is the 2016 version, still running fine and I have no immediate plans to replace it. I probably will get an ATX 3.0 PSU when I next upgrade the GPU, which is basically what I am suggesting.

Even then, Corsair sells the type 4 to 12VHPWR cable you would need to power a late model Nvidia card. Something like a 4070 or 4070Ti I would be perfectly comfortable running with a 750W PSU.

Technically any component can fail at any time. How much damage that does depends on the type of failure. PSU failures in my experience rarely damage anything (they almost always fail on start up) Failure during operation, I've seen computers lose the 5V rail. They behave very oddly, but Windows kind of still works since the CPU is still getting 12V power, but the instant you try to access something it generally locks up. New PSU and they fire right back up.

Catastrophic failure would mean that a lot of safety features in the PSU all failed. Going to be a fuse or fuseable resistor in there somewhere to that will kill the unit if it tries to deliver a dead short, but even before that the OCP, OVP, etc features should shut down the PSU.