[SOLVED] Building PC - Wrote description of parts with intent to (eventually) sell it - Want to know if descriptions and part choices make sense to that end

tsibiski

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EDIT: !IMPORTANT! This is NOT an ad. I am NOT selling this PC right now, as I don't have any of these components (save motherboard). I want to stress that I am asking for advice about the components I chose, and the descriptions on why I chose them. I wrote this out as something that I intend to provide on some marketplace when I eventually do sell it. That's why it is reasonable to mistake this as an ad. But it isn't an ad.

I am asking this ultimately to make sure that I give people all the information they can need to make an informed decision. I'm basically trying to not make the mistakes others have made when selling a PC. And I'm curious what mistakes you consider that I've made if you were to read this.

I'm very open to advice to reword everything so there is no confusion on that. Sorry for that confusion. Actual ads on forums are very annoying, and I realize how this wasn't made clear, or walks that line in an annoying way.
------

So I've been researching a hopefully optimal, middle-range-ish gaming PC. I enjoy working on PC's as a hobby, and since I can't afford to keep building and keeping PCs, I thought I'd sell the next one that I build. I am not a fan of the flare and pomp that a lot of PC ads on Craigslist or Ebay have. They throw things like "amazing", "incredible", "overpowered" and many other buzzwords into a description, trying to oversell their computers. A lot of the times the completely omit what is actually in the PC. For example, saying "i5 Intel CPU" and not saying what model it is. It makes it impossible to validate the actual build price and compare to what they are charging.

Anyway, I've written out an extended explanation of each part and why I chose it. Whether it's why I chose it in general, or why it is the right choice given other parts I chose for the system. I intend to add a few additional details on each part, maybe above the "Why I Chose It?" part. For example, "3.8ghz base, 4.4 ghz OC" for the Ryzen 3600x, with an explanation giving other useful details like "4.4 ghz is not possible on all chips. There's a silicon lottery involved... etc etc." For now, I have this, and I am curious if other people think the descriptions are reasonable, the parts are reasonable, etc. I am very likely to forego the Ryzen 3070 because of limited availability during the timeframe that I want to build this and sell it (early November).

Thanks for taking a look:


Component List


List (Descriptions and Explanations Below List)

CPU: Ryzen 3600X {New} [$220]
MOBO: Gigabyte Auros Master x570 {Used}[New: $350 – My Used Value: $100]
RAM: G-SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600mhz 2x8 GB {New} (F4-3600C18D-16GTZRX) [$100]
GPU: RTX 3070 {New} [$500]
SSD (Boot Drive): SK Hynix Gold P31 1TB PCIe NVMe {New} [$130]
HDD (Secondary Drive): Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal HD [$55]
PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 11 650W [$120]:
COOLER: Scythe Fuma 2 Air Cooler [$55]
COOLER #2: Wraith Spire (Comes with CPU. Not used. Will be provided with box.) [$0]
CASE: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX Black, ATX Computer Case: [$100]
OS: Windows 10 Pro OEM: [$10]
EXTRAS: I purchase additional PSU cords that extend the length of the cables which allows for better cable management in some situations. They also have a different style than stock PSU cables, and provide better asthetics. This is not included in the base price.


Base Price Before Taxes: $1,390 USD
After Taxes: (Will be calculated with invoices when done)
Shipping Fees: Depends on Purchaser
Building Fee + Setup and Overclocking Charge: 12% of Base Total or $166.80
Total Price: To do


Ryzen 3600X

Why I chose this?

This CPU, along with its non-”X” variant, are widely considered to be the best value AMD Ryzen chip for a gaming PC on the market. Normally, the 3600x is approximately 50 dollars more than the 3600. And at that price increase, you do not get enough of a boost (200mhz more base & boost) to warrant going with that chip. However, I found a deal where I could get a brand new 3600x for only $5 more than the 3600. At that price, it was very worth the upgrade.

The newest Ryzen 3XXX series processors have finally met or exceeded the power and value of Intel CPUs when they were released last year. While some very powerful Intel chips on the high end of the spectrum

are still a great choice in the gaming PC market, the power of these new Ryzen chips at their very competitive price point makes them excellent choices at every end of the gaming PC pricing spectrum.

While it might make sense in a very high-end gaming PC to have a beefier, higher core-count chip, there is no need to exceed this Ryzen 3600x's 6 Cores and 12 Threads to game on the highest settings. Arguably, going beyond this premium moves into luxury territory where the dollar-per-power-increase yields diminishing returns. The majority of modern day video games still do not take advantage of a ton of cores. While some games are certainly are developed to utilize multiple cores and multiple threads, the majority of games do the lionshare of work on a primary core and its thread(s).

While your benchmark scores on something like Cinebench or 3D Mark (Cpu intensive benchmarks) will be notably lower than a Ryzen 3900x (12 cores / 24 threads), this same difference will not be noticed in real use cases, like the overwhelming majority of games and other applications that you would use. 3D modeling, animation, and video editing applications would be examples of exceptions to this.

Another thing that is important to note when picking a CPU, or upgrading a machine, is whether or not your CPU will throttle the performance of your graphics card. Luckily, the 3600x is at a great place in the processing power and price spectrum that will not throttle your components, and not likely throttle any components that you could upgrade to for years to come.


Gigabyte Auros Master x570 (This is lightly used!)

[New: ~$350 – Used Ebay: ~$125-250 – Value Applied By Me To Total Base PC Part Price: $100]

Why I chose this?

Of the dozens of available x570 motherboard variants, this model is nearly always ranked as the first or second best price for value. I recommend checking Youtube reviews to confirm this (as with everything I or any other PC seller says about their build. It is wise to be as informed as possible about your purchase.). It generally wins in every category except for overclocking. It normally comes in 2nd place to the MSI Godlike x570 (which is over $650 dollars).

I wanted to originally spec this machine out with a brand new motherboard so that everything was brand new, which gives the build its own, likely greater appeal. However, to keep the build at my target price, I would be relagated to a a board that is far less powerful and has less overclocking capabilities. This option could have been an x470 board, for example. The problem with that is that their prices have not reduced in any major and appreciable way after the release of the x570. The major difference between x470 and x570 is the explicit support for PCIe 4.0. It is possible to setup an older board to use it, but the boards were not designed for it, and it is not enabled under normal circumstances. This is not hugely relevant in 2020 because there is that nothing currently on the market besides the RTX 3090, or possibly RTX 3080, that would exceed PCIe 3.0 speeds and be throttled in performance.

Still, future upgrades could greatly benefit from the x570 chipset. Additionally, Ryzen 4XXX series processors will also be supported on this chipset (as well as the upcoming x670's), which further offers potential for if/when you decide to upgrade. Additionally, I chose this over B550 options as they are budget boards and not quite as efficient for overclocking, with less effective heatsinks, no NVMe lane covers/heatsinks, fewer PCI lanes, etc.

While I found several solid options that fell into the price range that worked in this build, I had an extra x570 motherboard lying around that might never otherwise get used again (Used for 6 months total). The new options were going to be a B550 model, so this is a very solid upgrade to the final rig. Additionally, because it is used, I could easily rationalize a fair value for it that fell into the $100-$150 range that I was looking at when settling on a motherboard. Note: the warranty is all yours, and hasn't been registered yet.


MEMORY (RAM): G-SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600mhz 2x8 GB

Why I chose this?

It is important to try to find memory from your motherboard's Qualified Vendor List (QVL). This ensures that the listed speeds are fully compatible at the advertised speeds. This was chosen as it is listed on the x570 Auros Master's QVL for the Ryzen “Matisse” (3XXX) series CPUs. It was also chosen due to its reasonable price compared to alternative options on the list.

Finally, 3600mhz was chosen as it is arguably the pinnacle of overclocking on Ryzen processors at this point in their evolution. Ryzen CPU's provide something called “fabric clock” which is used by Ryzen CPUs to link and coordinate functionality on the die, along with the memory. It works most efficiently in a 1 to 1 ratio with the memory clock. However, it only goes up to 3600mhz. Overclocking memory beyond that point may actually result in worse overall performance; at least until over 4000-4400mhz is achieved. Various videos on the internet can explain this, but it is generally considered that a 3600mhz Mem Clock to 3600mhz Fabric clock is the sweet spot for current generation AMD CPUs.


GRAPHICS CARD (GPU): TBD RTX 3070

* To do after specs come out. Based on limited availability, I may just want to find a good older card that hopefully is dramatically reduced in price in response to the new cards coming out? Fingers crossed that that even happens.*


STORAGE #1 (SSD): SK Hynix Gold P31 1TB PCIe NVMe

Why I chose this?

This is a very new SSD released by Hynix to challenge the most powerful SSDs on the market, such as the Samsung EVO 970 Plus. It is just as fast, but 73% cheaper. It is, in many situations, $100 less than a competing NVMe SSD that has the same read speeds, but slower write speeds. This was one of the easiest choices to make in this build.


STORAGE #2 (HDD): Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal HD

Why I chose this?

When building a gaming PC, it is wise to get an NVMe SSD as a boot drive for fast boot times and fast game load times. HDD's are still very useful as a backup storage device for anything that does not require performance loading. Storing all of your documents, music, and videos on an HDD is a wise decision; especially because they are cheaper and have more storage capacity. This, coupled with the fact that modern games take up a ton of space (often 50GB a game), having a secondary storage device for other beefy files like videos is a very nice (and cheap!) luxury option.


POWER SUPPLY (PSU): be quiet! Straight Power 11 650W

Why I chose this?

A power supply is often the biggest mistake a first time PC builder makes when constructing their rig. It is easy to think “electricity is electricity, so why not buy the cheapest option?” There is a critical reason to buy an established brand with a solid reputation, and not skimping on the expense: A power supply that fails can destroy multiple components in your system. A cheaper power supply will potentially be more likely to fail. And when it does, it will be more likely to destroy your motherboard and possibly other components. A higher quality PSU has fail safe measures that stop a power surge into the rest of the PC, confining damage from a surge to the PSU alone.

This “be quiet!” brand PSU is highly reliable, highly rated, modular, and more than sufficient for the power draw of the components in this rig. Modularity makes it a bit easier to cable manage, resulting in a cleaner looking PC. Additionally, having a little extra headroom in wattage will allow for you to upgrade your components in the future without needing to upgrade your PSU. Some components, like the RTX 3070 graphics card, can have highly variable power draw, which gives extra headroom that guarantees you will never have a PC shut down due to insufficient power.


CPU COOLER: Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler

Why I chose this?

This is one of the highest rated heat sink air coolers on the market. It competes with the best Noctua fans available. This will allow for more than adequate thermals after the overclocking that I (or you) perfom on the pc.


STOCK CPU COOLER (NOT USED; PROVIDED IN BOX) Wraith Spire

Why this?

This is the free stock fan that comes with the Ryzen 3600x. It is completely inadequate for an overclocked CPU. It is barely adequate stock with no overclocking. Since this PC will be shipped to you overclocked, it is critical that a better heatsink is installed, which is why this is replaced by the Scythe Fuma 2. I will provide this fan in the box it comes in. IMPORTANT You should keep it in storage. Read the important notes below as this fan still plays a role in your Ryzen 3600x's warranty process. You may even be required to ship it with the CPU if you RMA the chip.


CASE: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX Black, ATX Computer Case

Why this?

This case has excellent thermal capabilities, solid cable management options, RGB, and is all for just $100 dollars. I chose this because it accomplishes all of that while being one of the highest ranked affordable mid-tower ATX form factor computer cases.

OS: Windows 10 Pro

This is just an OEM. It does not cost hundreds of dollars for Windows, like you might see in some advertisements. I have a USB stick with Windows 10 on it. I will install it, and purchase a 10 dollar OEM key which is a valid Windows key.

IMPORTANT NOTES!

- If you ever need to RMA your Ryzen 3600x, DO NOT tell them that you have used a Scythe Fuma 2 cooler on the CPU. The Wraith Spire that ships with the CPU will be supplied to you separately as it is free, or technically part of the purchase price of the part. In the fine print of the warranty stipulations on AMD's website, they say that using any cooler other than the one that came with the Ryzen 3600x will void the warranty. This is arguably absurd, but it is how they handle this warranty. To be fair, AMD has rapidly been making their stipulations more customer friendly. This may no longer apply when you run into the need to invoke your warranty. But it is still smart to keep this in mind.They may also tell you to return the Wraith Spire in the box along with the Ryzen 3600x if you RMA it, so keeping this fan may be wise.

- Warranty information for each component will be provided. I can ship all of the boxes of all of the components (will cost extra), or I can cut the serial number info off of each box, and ship that information with PC, or if close enough, the PC and all boxes can be handed off directly to the purchaser.
 
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USAFRet

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Warranty - You, being the initial purchaser, have a warranty. That is not universally transferable.
Many manufacturers or retail outlets want to see the Invoice, with the relevant name and info on it.
Some only care about the serial number and manufacture date.

-------------------------------------
And sometimes it differs.
MSI motherboards - If the person making the claim has the original invoice, 3 years from the purchase date. If no invoice, 3 years from manufacture date.
https://us.msi.com/page/warranty/mb

Gigabyte motherboards -
For any warranty claim, a valid Proof of Purchase is required. All Receipts/valid Proof of Purchase are subject to verification at the sole discretion of GIGABYTE.
A valid Proof of Purchase is defined as one of the following:
  • ◆ A dated sales receipt from an authorized GIGABYTE Dealer or Reseller. The receipt must show the Product description and price.
https://member.aorus.com/global/productwarranty

-------------------------------------

(2016)
"To make things interesting here is the reply I got from Gigabyte:
There is no warranty on 2nd hand goods bought privately from such sites like E-Bay. Warranty is not transferable and stays with the original owner only. Item would only be accepted for repair attempt only and not replaced if non repairable.

Gigabyte goods should only be bought new from our official UK dealers/sellers only. "

-------------------------------------

Nvidia:
LIMITATIONS OF WARRANTY
"This warranty applies only to the original purchases of the Warranted Products from a retailer, mail order operation, or on-line retail store; this warranty will not extend to any person that acquires a Warranted Product on a used basis. "
-------------------------------------

G_Skill:
https://www.gskill.com/warranty
"Except where prohibited by applicable local law, this warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is non-transferable. This warranty provides you with specific legal rights, and you may have additional rights that vary under local laws. "

-------------------------------------
SK Hynix:
http://ssd.skhynix.com/terms.html
"This warranty is limited to the original purchaser. "
"Claims may be made only by the customer who originally purchased the Product and currently owns it. "
 
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tsibiski

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This isn't an advertisement. I haven't built this computer. Nor do I intend to try to sell it on Toms Hardware.

I am asking if this is
  1. A good build
  2. Accurate information I intend to provide when selling it
  3. A reasonable idea to do this for people, or should I not even do it this way
 

vov4ik_il

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This isn't an advertisement.
To my taste, it is clearly an advertisement. For business advice, you are totally in the wrong place. It is a techy community.
For "Help my Build" type of question I would expect it to omit all the "I am building for sale" etc... and be clear and concise instead. Form of "Is A+B+C a good fit?"
 

USAFRet

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This isn't an advertisement. I haven't built this computer. Nor do I intend to try to sell it on Toms Hardware.

I am asking if this is
  1. A good build
  2. Accurate information I intend to provide when selling it
  3. A reasonable idea to do this for people, or should I not even do it this way
  1. Yeah, it is OK. Mediumly good
  2. Too much text.
  3. Issues, outlined below
  • $1400+ Why should one buy a supposed new system from you?
  • Warranty. Can you ensure that ALL parts have a transferable warranty? Many do not. Many retailers/manufacturers want the original invoice.
  • Windows license. $10 from fleabay is NOT a valid OS license. Sorry, but that's a fact. You didn't skimp out on the physical parts...licensed software is no different.
 

tsibiski

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To my taste, it is clearly an advertisement. For business advice, you are totally in the wrong place. It is a techy community.
For "Help my Build" type of question I would expect it to omit all the "I am building for sale" etc... and be clear and concise instead. Form of "Is A+B+C a good fit?"
The point of the thread was to ask if the details below the intro paragraph would be a reasonable way to present that theoretical build on Ebay or Craigslist.

Because of that, it is certainly written in a way that sounds like I am selling it to you on this forum. But again, my intent was to see if people could tell me if the build was good, and if my descriptions were correct and reasonable.

It seems that has caused confusion. But I assure you that I don't own any of these parts at the moment, save for the motherboard. Nor am I selling anything because I don't have it. I am just asking if this is a reasonable way to describe the PC I am building to an eventual seller. Although I understand if this whole premise walks a line that people don't like. I apologize for that.

I appreciate the advice. I will remember that for next time. Unfortunately, that would make it a little hard from a perspective of, "if you read this detailed description that I might provide when I do sell this, would you appreciate all the info I provide, or would you not care". To that effect, I suppose it is a bit of business question. Although that aspect of it can be ignored. No need to answer that. I guess in leu of that, I'd be curious just whether the reasoning for chosing those parts is sound.
 
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tsibiski

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At first blush, this DID look like an advertisement.
That's fair. I tried to make this all more clear in the edit I just added to it. It is a reasonable mistaken impression. Especially because it was a document of stuff that I intended to eventually use when I sold it.


  1. Yeah, it is OK. Mediumly good
  2. Too much text.
  3. Issues, outlined below
  • $1400+ Why should one buy a supposed new system from you?
  • Warranty. Can you ensure that ALL parts have a transferable warranty? Many do not. Many retailers/manufacturers want the original invoice.
  • Windows license. $10 from fleabay is NOT a valid OS license. Sorry, but that's a fact. You didn't skimp out on the physical parts...licensed software is no different.

Too much text is the story of my life. I will definitely trim this down. Say more with less.

As for why would someone want to buy this from me, I assume that this implies something like this, "Why would someone want to buy a new system for you, when they can buy one from a company that does this for a living". That's a good question if that's how you meant it. I asked myself that. A lot of pre-built gaming systems can be pretty sub par, with odd choices on components like "Great Wall" power supplies (Walmart OP line), or stock CPU coolers etc. Some pre-builts give an insane premium over the value of the components and the time it took to build it. And some pre-builts are pretty awesome and great value too. And customizable built-for-you PC's are often quite good too.

I guess it comes down to a choice. I am asking for less of a premium from the effort involved to build out the rig. Additionally, a lot of these company-built PC's don't do much in the way of overclocking. For example: until recently, NZXT did not overclock the RAM for their buyers, but still advertised them as their peak possible speeds. And they even voided your warranty if you overclocked the RAM yourself. Although they recently removed that stipulation about voiding your warranty.

As for the warranties, I'd provide the invoice as well as the info necessary for the warranty. Granted, all of the warranties I set up for my computer only required the part number details. It didn't require any details that would prove that I was the original purchaser, rather than a reseller. Although that doesn't mean that these components wouldn't require that, so I will definitely keep that in mind though.

As for the 10 dollars Window key, I made a small error there. It seems to be a few dollars more than that. I am using the services advertised by tech Youtubers like Greg Salazar. I've seen them a lot. So they are advertising illegal pirated keys? If so, I will avoid that. I didn't realize that they are not legal keys. If that means they are something akin to G2G, I will avoid giving them money.
 
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vov4ik_il

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The same set with all brand new parts, with TAX, full unquestionable warranty, and free shipping...
I omitted the Windows License due to its being a questionable 10$ investment.
Local computer assembly offers can be found on Craigslist or Kajiji or any other public marketplace.

While the system is "OK", how would you convince anyone to buy it from you for more than it is sold new?
Your offer would be missing an added value (besides labor) but adds used parts, (doubles) taxation, and shipping charges. Would you go for it? Instead, you might want to try to market the value you add - the labor, e.g "-Willing to build a computer for a fee" and market that in your local area so that it would be competitive.

Hope that answers your question.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.09 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($194.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($87.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SK hynix Gold S31 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB STRIX GAMING Video Card ($500.00) I just entered your price here
Case:
be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.00) Out of stock, last price used
Power Supply:
be quiet! Straight Power 11 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.90 @ B&H)
Total: $1396.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-27 01:02 EDT-0400
 
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madmatt30

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Your 2 main issues here are.

1. Using a used motherboard of which you don't have an existing warranty or a full history of.

2. An inability to offer a full warranty service on the build as a whole, rather than just component parts that may not be transferable warranty wise.

Thats a fairly premium system once you get over $1k, if this is going to sell its going to sell to a novice, and a novice is honestly going to have no idea of what to do if a singular component goes wrong.

Thats your main issue, you may be using better quality components than a lot of ebay and amazon sellers but sadly that isn't of great importance to someone who's going to buy a prebuilt system.

They want a system that works and is going to be covered warranty wise for 2 or 3 years with no hassle to them if a problem arises.

I used to do this as a secondary business venture too, probably close to 100 sytems sold over the last 10 years.

I knocked it on the head beacuse it's now virtually impossible to make money at, all novice buyers actually see is a nice bling case with rgb, cpu, GPU and general performance statistics.

They have no interest in the fact you've used a better quality motherboard and a better quality psu, only the total price and the aesthetics. Sad but true.
 
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USAFRet

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Regarding those cheap windows licenses and utubers advertising them....they are paid to promote those.

You have to ask yourself..how can someone sell a $100 item for $20? How can they sell 1,000 of them like that?
What special discount line from Microsoft do they have?
They don't.
 
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tsibiski

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Thanks for the info around that, USAFRet. I legit had no clue. I guess that these major tech Youtubers advertising it gave it a strong air of validity and legitimacy in my mind, so that I never questioned it.

Thanks, madmatt30. For the motherboard, I do have the warranty. And it has not been registered. Per what I can tell, you are not required to register it immediately for it to be valid for its term. I could be wrong. I will check that. I appreciate the rest of the advice. It's a very compelling argument. And I am not actually doing this for any profit. It is just a hobby, and I watched a bunch of videos of tech Youtubers discussing how to do this, and what a reasonable premium is. I expect that all the time I put into it would ultimately make that current ~130 dollars be very low hourly rate, which I am totally okay with. However, I will look to reduce that even further.

Thanks, vov4ik_il. You made great points, and I definitely thought of the route of "offer to build someone something" as my approach. I think that will have to be my approach going forward if I ever want to do this again and be able to not be stuck with the resulting rig forever. As for why would someone want to buy this, and not just buy the rig itself, I'd argue that would be people who just don't want to build their own PC. Granted, of course that means that 99.999% of people will go straight to a service/company like CyberPowerPc or NZXT. Although I am not trying to compete with them in the grand scheme. I'm not trying to profit ultimately if I need to not profit to sell this. I just want to have fun doing something that's become a big hobby for me, and I am looking for a way to do that while not completely emptying my bank account out.
 

USAFRet

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Warranty - You, being the initial purchaser, have a warranty. That is not universally transferable.
Many manufacturers or retail outlets want to see the Invoice, with the relevant name and info on it.
Some only care about the serial number and manufacture date.

-------------------------------------
And sometimes it differs.
MSI motherboards - If the person making the claim has the original invoice, 3 years from the purchase date. If no invoice, 3 years from manufacture date.
https://us.msi.com/page/warranty/mb

Gigabyte motherboards -
For any warranty claim, a valid Proof of Purchase is required. All Receipts/valid Proof of Purchase are subject to verification at the sole discretion of GIGABYTE.
A valid Proof of Purchase is defined as one of the following:
  • ◆ A dated sales receipt from an authorized GIGABYTE Dealer or Reseller. The receipt must show the Product description and price.
https://member.aorus.com/global/productwarranty

-------------------------------------

(2016)
"To make things interesting here is the reply I got from Gigabyte:
There is no warranty on 2nd hand goods bought privately from such sites like E-Bay. Warranty is not transferable and stays with the original owner only. Item would only be accepted for repair attempt only and not replaced if non repairable.

Gigabyte goods should only be bought new from our official UK dealers/sellers only. "

-------------------------------------

Nvidia:
LIMITATIONS OF WARRANTY
"This warranty applies only to the original purchases of the Warranted Products from a retailer, mail order operation, or on-line retail store; this warranty will not extend to any person that acquires a Warranted Product on a used basis. "
-------------------------------------

G_Skill:
https://www.gskill.com/warranty
"Except where prohibited by applicable local law, this warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is non-transferable. This warranty provides you with specific legal rights, and you may have additional rights that vary under local laws. "

-------------------------------------
SK Hynix:
http://ssd.skhynix.com/terms.html
"This warranty is limited to the original purchaser. "
"Claims may be made only by the customer who originally purchased the Product and currently owns it. "
 
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tsibiski

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Jun 23, 2019
89
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545
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Warranty - You, being the initial purchaser, have a warranty. That is not universally transferable.
Many manufacturers or retail outlets want to see the Invoice, with the relevant name and info on it.
Some only care about the serial number and manufacture date.

-------------------------------------
And sometimes it differs.
MSI motherboards - If the person making the claim has the original invoice, 3 years from the purchase date. If no invoice, 3 years from manufacture date.
https://us.msi.com/page/warranty/mb

Gigabyte motherboards -
For any warranty claim, a valid Proof of Purchase is required. All Receipts/valid Proof of Purchase are subject to verification at the sole discretion of GIGABYTE.
A valid Proof of Purchase is defined as one of the following:
  • ◆ A dated sales receipt from an authorized GIGABYTE Dealer or Reseller. The receipt must show the Product description and price.
https://member.aorus.com/global/productwarranty

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(2016)
"To make things interesting here is the reply I got from Gigabyte:
There is no warranty on 2nd hand goods bought privately from such sites like E-Bay. Warranty is not transferable and stays with the original owner only. Item would only be accepted for repair attempt only and not replaced if non repairable.

Gigabyte goods should only be bought new from our official UK dealers/sellers only. "

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Nvidia:
LIMITATIONS OF WARRANTY
"This warranty applies only to the original purchases of the Warranted Products from a retailer, mail order operation, or on-line retail store; this warranty will not extend to any person that acquires a Warranted Product on a used basis. "
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G_Skill:
https://www.gskill.com/warranty
"Except where prohibited by applicable local law, this warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is non-transferable. This warranty provides you with specific legal rights, and you may have additional rights that vary under local laws. "

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SK Hynix:
http://ssd.skhynix.com/terms.html
"This warranty is limited to the original purchaser. "
"Claims may be made only by the customer who originally purchased the Product and currently owns it. "
Thanks for taking that time to research that info and post it for me. I really appreciate it!
 

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