Burning of Neutral pin on PC power cable

Gautham Vasisht

Commendable
Jun 12, 2016
15
0
1,510
A month ago I bought a new G-card, Nvidia GT730 2GB DDR5. It had the min power requirement at 300W and my PSU was rated at 450W so I assumed it to be compatible. I installed the card onto a PCI-E 2.0 slot. I started playing Counter Strike Global Offensive. Thats the only game I play. A few minutes later I sensed a burning smell. At first I thought the smell must be originating inside the cabinet. But later figured that the smell was due to the burning of rubber and some kind of gold coating inside the neutral pin of the power cable. Also there were cinders stuck to the neutral pin of the PSU socket. When I tried running PC the next day I heard some cracking/ ticks noise and system turned off. This hapenned only when I tried running the game. I found out that a person in London had similar problem 10 years ago here http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/neutral-pin-on-plug-melted-what-happened.56901/. Since one of them had suggested to replace the cable I did so. I continued to play CS GO. After 11 days, the same process took place and I find my new cable also has a burn on the neutral pin. Although I didn't notice any smell this time due to the sturdy build of the cable. Now do I need to buy a new PSU which has a higher rating or is my motherboard not supporting the G-card? Or is it because the when I run the game my motherboard is demanding more power than the PSU can supply? Its been 2 years since I bought the desktop and I had not faced a single problem until this. I'm totally confused and worried. Help is much appreciated.
My system specifications are ASROCK N68-GS4 motherboard, AMD Athlon 3.5GHz processor, 4GB RAM, 450W PSU and 600W UPS.
 
Solution
Your Zebronics 450W isn't really a 450W. Unless it's a different, better one than they're currently selling now -- which I doubt -- the +12V rail is only rated at 16A. Which means that for all intents and purposes, with a modern rig with modern parts, you more or less have a 200W PSU. PC components used to rely more on the +3.3V and +5V rails.

And once a power supply is physically burning, it's a power supply that should never be trusted for use again.
Your Zebronics 450W isn't really a 450W. Unless it's a different, better one than they're currently selling now -- which I doubt -- the +12V rail is only rated at 16A. Which means that for all intents and purposes, with a modern rig with modern parts, you more or less have a 200W PSU. PC components used to rely more on the +3.3V and +5V rails.

And once a power supply is physically burning, it's a power supply that should never be trusted for use again.
 
Solution
Sounds like you need a better PSU. I recommend a replacement, then test your components individually for damage. Like DSzymborski said, once a PSU goes bad there's increased risk of damage to other components and is not to be trusted. A good PSU is worth the investment.
 
Thanks
So is it safe it assume that there is nothing wrong with my motherboard and graphics card?
Also do you guys think Frontech JIL 2423 600W PSU(22A on 12V rail) is a reliable replacement as in will the supply be 600W as claimed?Also is it safe to use 600W or will there be any compatibility issues since its of a higher power rating?
 


It's not safe to assume, but it's the hope. Low-end PSUs do a poor end protecting their parts even when the PSUs aren't dead.

That PSU isn't any better. There's no dependable, safe PSU at that price, it would be horribly overpriced even at free. The lowest-end PSU I'd ever advise someone use is the Corsair CX 430 -- it's passable in a low-power rig that you're not overclocking.


PSUs only use the power they need. So a 600W power supply isn't simply running at that output all the time.
 


Didn't say I *like* the PSU, but he has a low power rig, and it's better than the literal junk he's using and seeking. The EVGA 500B isn't a step up - it also uses the second-tier capacitors, is made by HEC (the 430 by CWT), and got about the same score from JonnyGuru. It's not what I'd call a good PSU, but it's not likely to destroy his PC either (I think the PSU tier list is way too kind to HEC EVGAs which ought to be in tier four too IMO).
 
Now if I buy a PSU from a better manufacturer say Corsair or Cooler Master can I be confident that I won't face the same burning problem again?
Just to be sure before I purchase...
Thanks in advance