[SOLVED] Cabinet causing power cycling?

[Samuel hut]

Hey, so my PC has been randomly power cycling since the past two months.
I have replaced everything including the PSU, RAM, MOBO, SSD.

PC specs:
i7-8700
Mobo : Gigabyte B365 DS3h
Gskill Ripjaws 3600mhz DDR4 X1
WD black 512 M.2
Seagate 256 SSD
PSU: Coolermaster GX 750 cmstorm 80 plus bronze
Cabinet: Antec NX500

I still encountered the same issue. The only thing left to replace is the processor itself. Before I do so, could it be causing the power cycling as everyone I asked say it's rare and moreover, I have no more money left to shell for a new processor.

Another possible reason was that I had taken the front panel of the cabinet off just to know how to disassemble and shortly after I started having these issues. So I told the diagnostician to check that out. He has been bypassing the power button and directly turning on the pc by shorting the pins on the Mobo.

Is there any way to know if the cabinet is causing the bootloops?
Because the computer doesn't just shut down, it automatically powers on after it randomly shuts down.
Based on the above fact, could the cabinet wiring i.e, the front panel wiring be causing the power cycling?

Requesting answers as I'm exhausted trying to resolve this issue since the past 2 months and want to get it solved asap.
TIA

 

[Eximo]

No GPU?

Not exactly the best motherboard to pair with an i7. What was the old motherboard?

I would monitor the temperatures of the Voltage Regulation Module surrounding the CPU. Tools like Hardware Info should get you some readings. If they are overheating, it is possible that is the cause.

Are all the front panel connectors out? Including USB and audio?

By default most computers are setup to restart after power loss, that is not that unexpected.

Have you checked the condition of the power getting to the computer? Brownouts are a thing, and if they last long enough the PSU's capacitors can't maintain output. A UPS might be a solution.

 

[Samuel hut]

No GPU?

Not exactly the best motherboard to pair with an i7. What was the old motherboard?

I would monitor the temperatures of the Voltage Regulation Module surrounding the CPU. Tools like Hardware Info should get you some readings. If they are overheating, it is possible that is the cause.

Are all the front panel connectors out? Including USB and audio?

By default most computers are setup to restart after power loss, that is not that unexpected.

Have you checked the condition of the power getting to the computer? Brownouts are a thing, and if they last long enough the PSU's capacitors can't maintain output. A UPS might be a solution.

No GPU as i took it out thinking that might be causing a problem.
Overheating is not even an issue as the temps don't cross 55°c on full load. I have a 240mm AIO.
My question is can the cabinet power button cause such rebooting issues?
The PSU is fine as I changed it and still experienced the same problem.
Please let me know. TIA

 

[Samuel hut]

No GPU as i took it out thinking that might be causing a problem.
Overheating is not even an issue as the temps don't cross 55°c on full load. I have a 240mm AIO.
My question is can the cabinet power button cause such rebooting issues?
The PSU is fine as I changed it and still experienced the same problem.
Please let me know. TIA

So the cabinet power buttons are fine, no short circuits as it power cycled with a friend's cabinet as well.

 

[Eximo]

Well, that leaves power delivery or the CPU. I would check your household for anything that might be causing an excessive load.

Way back in the day my brother would experience problems every time the Air Conditioner kicked on. Turns out his computer was sitting right next to the power lines running to the house, so the high power usage would induce enough current in the wires on his desk to cause issues. Moved the computer away from the corner and then only his CRT monitor would still show signs.

 

[Samuel hut]

Well, that leaves power delivery or the CPU. I would check your household for anything that might be causing an excessive load.

Way back in the day my brother would experience problems every time the Air Conditioner kicked on. Turns out his computer was sitting right next to the power lines running to the house, so the high power usage would induce enough current in the wires on his desk to cause issues. Moved the computer away from the corner and then only his CRT monitor would still show signs.

Definitely not the power delivery as it cycled even at the diagnostic centre. The processor has also been RMAed. Still cycles.
Anyway the liquid cooler might be causing it?
Also, this mostly happens when I turn on the PC, it fails to boot and automatically turns back on.
Here is a video and some log files if they might speak to you:
Log files
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17USX-b7G1iTCsjhBNRI82d2xk1jAWIlg
Here is a video of the CPU power cycling:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11hG36vwE2bEpOIVd76vrBO8hNXXGTsTD/view?usp=drivesdk
TIA

 

[Eximo]

I can't say you are troubleshooting this properly.

Very basically remove absolutely everything you don't need for a successful POST.

In this case that would leave the motherboard, ram, CPU, and the PSU. No front I/O, no drives, nothing. You can even unplug the cooler for brief tests as the waterblock will take a bit to heat up. Yes, mentioning that you had a liquid cooler is important, particularly if everything is hooked up. Doesn't look like anything is wrong with it, but best way to test would be to get an air cooler and remove it as a variable.

If you can confirm the system POSTs reliably, then you start adding things back in. Your OS drive would be one of the last things. Try a bootable Linux distribution first on a USB drive.

And if you haven't tried a fresh install, that would be my first go to. Could just be a corrupt OS causing all your problems.

These are things your diagnostician should have done, but if you don't know, then it is as if they haven't been done. Try a bootable Linux distribution first.

 

[Samuel hut]

I can't say you are troubleshooting this properly.

Very basically remove absolutely everything you don't need for a successful POST.

In this case that would leave the motherboard, ram, CPU, and the PSU. No front I/O, no drives, nothing. You can even unplug the cooler for brief tests as the waterblock will take a bit to heat up. Yes, mentioning that you had a liquid cooler is important, particularly if everything is hooked up. Doesn't look like anything is wrong with it, but best way to test would be to get an air cooler and remove it as a variable.

If you can confirm the system POSTs reliably, then you start adding things back in. Your OS drive would be one of the last things. Try a bootable Linux distribution first on a USB drive.

And if you haven't tried a fresh install, that would be my first go to. Could just be a corrupt OS causing all your problems.

These are things your diagnostician should have done, but if you don't know, then it is as if they haven't been done. Try a bootable Linux distribution first.

Hey, thank you for replying.
I did a fresh install of windows so definitely not an OS problem. But the technician said he thinks it might be the AIO as it might be causing some shorting. Will test it out by replacing.