Question Can I repair a dead motherboard?

[eloh!]

Hello all!

I am new to this forum, and I wanted to reach out for a quick question,

I have intentionally purchased a dead ASUS Strix B250i motherboard with hopes to fix it to save some money and learn a little more about electronics and such. After performing all the troubleshooting methods I could imagine, I believe the issue involves the motherboard’s ability to deliver power to the CPU. The motherboard’s power indicator turns on, fans spin up, and integrated light strip works, but the issue is the CPU light is constantly on, hindering the system’s ability to POST. The motherboard will turn on for around 6-10 seconds, power off for a moment, and will repeat this process until I remove power from the board. I know all the components I have installed work properly, and my troubleshooting methods are listed below:

• Removed memory, one stick in each DIMM slot, tried a separate kit, nothing.
• Reseated CPU and tried different coolers in case it was a mounting pressure issue, still nothing.
• Removed and reset CMOS, still no POST.
• Used a separate power supply, the issue persists. I know these units work because I tested both on a separate board while troubleshooting my current one.
• I am using integrated graphics, so I don’t have any discrete GPU to reseat, remove, etc.
• I have not tested a separate CPU because I don’t have any compatible ones laying around, but I am using an i3-7100 and last time I checked, the CPU worked just fine.
• The socket looks good, with no bent pins or inflicted damage.

Would anyone have any other methods of troubleshooting or ideas for narrowing in on the actual issue? My current thoughts involve an issue with the MOSFETs and 8-pin EPS connector, but I can’t think of any ways to properly test and diagnose this. I am fine with soldering if needed, and I do have a multimeter laying around that could come in handy, but I only know the extreme basics in using it.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

[vov4ik_il]

I'm pretty excited now, however when I clicked the Find IC option, it displayed these three choices:

https://imgur.com/cz85A5r

View: https://imgur.com/cz85A5r


Would it matter which one I select? Also, when choosing the correct one, do I just double click it and X out of the window? It didn't seem to do anything the first time.

• 25Q128FV
• D-click

SQ is the package type (the IC form factor)

 

[eloh!]

• 25Q128FV
• D-click

SQ is the package type (the IC form factor)

Thank you!

I just started to program the chip and after a few seconds this error occurs:

https://imgur.com/a/I9udlzH

View: https://imgur.com/a/I9udlzH

Should I try a different BIOS version?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Did you unpack it? Did you save the current one? Which one did you use?

 

[eloh!]

Did you unpack it? Did you save the current one? Which one did you use?

I unzipped and extracted the file onto my desktop, and I saved the one you had sent previously.
However, the file is a .CAP if that matters.
Should I try a different BIOS version ?

 

[vov4ik_il]

.cap can be further opened and unpacked into 4 separate files, but those might need to be aligned. Make a backup of the chip content and post it, I'll have a look.

 

[eloh!]

.cap can be further opened and unpacked into 4 separate files, but those might need to be aligned. Make a backup of the chip content and post it, I'll have a look.

Ohh! Okay my bad, I got it opened and I see the four files. Is there anything you would like me to do with these?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Ohh! Okay my bad, I got it opened and I see the four files. Is there anything you would like me to do with these?

I looked into it some more... So, Asus and Asrock use their format to prevent you from flashing a wrong file, by adding a header to it. You can either strip the header and join the parts yourself using a Hex Editor or (the easy way) convert it is using this software.

 

[eloh!]

I looked into it some more... So, Asus and Asrock use their format to prevent you from flashing a wrong file, by adding a header to it. You can either strip the header and join the parts yourself using a Hex Editor or (the easy way) convert it is using this software.

Sounds good! I just installed the software and converted the BIOS file to a .bin and ran it in the flashing software again.
After running it and trying to program the IC again, it comes with this:

https://imgur.com/a/b5U7GJQ

View: https://imgur.com/a/b5U7GJQ


I feel so bad about all of these errors! Sorry, I hope this isn't wasting your time in any way. :/

 

[vov4ik_il]

Connect the hardware to a port on the back of your computer or directly to a laptop and flash it again, the IC might be bad or you just not getting enough power to the flasher.
Also, the cabling connectivity might be loose.

 

[eloh!]

Connect the hardware to a port on the back of your computer or directly to a laptop and flash it again, the IC might be bad or you just not getting enough power to the flasher.
Also, the cabling connectivity might be loose.

Okay, I moved it to the front panel of my case because there wasn't quite enough space to place the motherboard behind, and the same problem came up.
I checked how secure the wires and everything are, and they seem to be pretty secure.
Is the power output of the front panel still too little in comparison to the motherboard's I/O?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Is the power output of the front panel still too little in comparison to the motherboard's I/O?

Yes. It is not too little, it is just there is a chance it is not enough, willing to cancel this possibility out.
Btw, we rely here on you properly connecting the pins by the table and firmly inserting them.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Let me know how it goes...

 

[eloh!]

Yes. It is not too little, it is just there is a chance it is not enough, willing to cancel this possibility out.
Btw, we rely here on you properly connecting the pins by the table and firmly inserting them.

The flasher is really touchy and I am a little skeptical about how well the wires are making contact with the flasher because their plastic ends are relatively large. Do you think removing those ends again and wrapping them in heatshrink would make any difference? The wires are currently pushing on each other a little bit.

Also, random question, when removing the components before flashing, I unplugged the CMOS wire from the motherboard. That's okay, right? I didn't want any other power going into the board but could that be an issue?

 

[vov4ik_il]

I unplugged the CMOS wire from the motherboard. That's okay, right?

Yes

 

[eloh!]

Yes

Okay sounds good, just wanted to check.

So, I tried reading the IC and that seemed to work just fine, if that possibly shows anything. I am now using a USB hub connected on my motherboard's USB connectors, but writing still comes up with the same 00000010 error. Here are some photos of my configuration if it helps any:

https://imgur.com/a/WJNaSbv

View: https://imgur.com/a/WJNaSbv

 

[vov4ik_il]

Hmm... is the hub powered? I used a powered one (comes with small ac power brick)

Are you writing using the sequence i mentioned? “Unprotect” is a part of it... check pin 3 (inverted write protect)

 

[eloh!]

Hmm... is the hub powered? I used a powered one (comes with small ac power brick)

Are you writing using the sequence i mentioned? “Unprotect” is a part of it...

The hub does have its little power indicator light turned on, so I assumed it's working properly.
Yes, I am using the writing sequence you mentioned, the one that is in the little drop-down arrow next to "Programm IC?"

 

[vov4ik_il]

The hub does have its little power indicator light turned on, so I assumed it's working properly.

No. That does not mean much. If you are using a hub - use a powered one. Otherwise - port on the back. It might not in your case but I have seen it causing trouble so many times.

Also check the wiring from pin 3 and on to the flasher.

 

[eloh!]

No. That does not mean much. If you are using a hub - use a powered one. Otherwise - port on the back. It might not in your case but I have seen it causing trouble so many times.

Also check the wiring from pin 3 and on to the flasher.

I was able to move everything to the back of my PC and tried it again, but the same issue still popped up. Looking at the pins and wires, everything seems fine, but do you think a possible lack in contact in the flasher could be preventing the writing process? Should I try the heat shrink method on the other ends of the wires to possibly make things smaller?

 

[vov4ik_il]

I was able to move everything to the back of my PC and tried it again, but the same issue still popped up. Looking at the pins and wires, everything seems fine, but do you think a possible lack in contact in the flasher could be preventing the writing process? Should I try the heat shrink method on the other ends of the wires to possibly make things smaller?

I have an idea...
Using Multimeter set to Ohms measure resistance between pins 3 and 8 then pin 3 and pin 4 (on the motherboard). Should have similar values. Post them.

The board might be pulling inverted write protect to ground thus preventing you from flashing, That is what we meant earlier about the trickiness of flashing while on the board

 

[eloh!]

pins 3 and 8 then pin 3 and pin 4 (on the motherboard). Should have similar values. Post them.

Pin 3: 000.3
Pin 8: 000.3 (was flashing between 000.3 and 000.2)
Pin 4: 000.3 (was also flashing between 000.3 and 000.2)

However, when placing the two leads together, the resistance was around the same values of 000.2 and 000.3. Would this make a difference in the readings from the motherboard?

 

[timmllnsw]

Hello all!

I am new to this forum, and I wanted to reach out for a quick question,

I have intentionally purchased a dead ASUS Strix B250i motherboard with hopes to fix it to save some money and learn a little more about electronics and such. After performing all the troubleshooting methods I could imagine, I believe the issue involves the motherboard’s ability to deliver power to the CPU. The motherboard’s power indicator turns on, fans spin up, and integrated light strip works, but the issue is the CPU light is constantly on, hindering the system’s ability to POST. The motherboard will turn on for around 6-10 seconds, power off for a moment, and will repeat this process until I remove power from the board. I know all the components I have installed work properly, and my troubleshooting methods are listed below:

• Removed memory, one stick in each DIMM slot, tried a separate kit, nothing.
• Reseated CPU and tried different coolers in case it was a mounting pressure issue, still nothing.
• Removed and reset CMOS, still no POST.
• Used a separate power supply, the issue persists. I know these units work because I tested both on a separate board while troubleshooting my current one.
• I am using integrated graphics, so I don’t have any discrete GPU to reseat, remove, etc.
• I have not tested a separate CPU because I don’t have any compatible ones laying around, but I am using an i3-7100 and last time I checked, the CPU worked just fine.
• The socket looks good, with no bent pins or inflicted damage.

Would anyone have any other methods of troubleshooting or ideas for narrowing in on the actual issue? My current thoughts involve an issue with the MOSFETs and 8-pin EPS connector, but I can’t think of any ways to properly test and diagnose this. I am fine with soldering if needed, and I do have a multimeter laying around that could come in handy, but I only know the extreme basics in using it.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Is there any way you can get ahold of a video card, disabling the on board graphics in the BIOS, and see if it will start with a different video setup? Seems to be the only thing you haven't tried.

 

[eloh!]

Is there any way you can get ahold of a video card, disabling the on board graphics in the BIOS, and see if it will start with a different video setup? Seems to be the only thing you haven't tried.

I could try but last time I checked, the motherboard isn't able to get into the BIOS. I could try again though.

 

[timmllnsw]

I could try but last time I checked, the motherboard isn't able to get into the BIOS. I could try again though.

Won't even let you get to the BIOS? Unfortunate. It does sound like the board isn't completely fried. IMO you need to get your hands on a POST card. That would narrow it down.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Pin 3: 000.3
Pin 8: 000.3 (was flashing between 000.3 and 000.2)
Pin 4: 000.3 (was also flashing between 000.3 and 000.2)

However, when placing the two leads together, the resistance was around the same values of 000.2 and 000.3. Would this make a difference in the readings from the motherboard?

Well, I meant to:

1. connect one lead to pin 3, the other one on pin 8
2. connect one lead to pin 3, the other one on pin 4

Those numbers you got can not be right...