Question Can I repair a dead motherboard?

[eloh!]

Hello all!

I am new to this forum, and I wanted to reach out for a quick question,

I have intentionally purchased a dead ASUS Strix B250i motherboard with hopes to fix it to save some money and learn a little more about electronics and such. After performing all the troubleshooting methods I could imagine, I believe the issue involves the motherboard’s ability to deliver power to the CPU. The motherboard’s power indicator turns on, fans spin up, and integrated light strip works, but the issue is the CPU light is constantly on, hindering the system’s ability to POST. The motherboard will turn on for around 6-10 seconds, power off for a moment, and will repeat this process until I remove power from the board. I know all the components I have installed work properly, and my troubleshooting methods are listed below:

• Removed memory, one stick in each DIMM slot, tried a separate kit, nothing.
• Reseated CPU and tried different coolers in case it was a mounting pressure issue, still nothing.
• Removed and reset CMOS, still no POST.
• Used a separate power supply, the issue persists. I know these units work because I tested both on a separate board while troubleshooting my current one.
• I am using integrated graphics, so I don’t have any discrete GPU to reseat, remove, etc.
• I have not tested a separate CPU because I don’t have any compatible ones laying around, but I am using an i3-7100 and last time I checked, the CPU worked just fine.
• The socket looks good, with no bent pins or inflicted damage.

Would anyone have any other methods of troubleshooting or ideas for narrowing in on the actual issue? My current thoughts involve an issue with the MOSFETs and 8-pin EPS connector, but I can’t think of any ways to properly test and diagnose this. I am fine with soldering if needed, and I do have a multimeter laying around that could come in handy, but I only know the extreme basics in using it.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

 

[vov4ik_il]

Won't even let you get to the BIOS? Unfortunate. It does sound like the board isn't completely fried. IMO you need to get your hands on a POST card. That would narrow it down.

True, that is another nice to have tool. It works if the BIOS is OK though - those power-on-self-test codes are generated by BIOS.

 

[eloh!]

Well, I meant to:

1. connect one lead to pin 3, the other one on pin 8
2. connect one lead to pin 3, the other one on pin 4

Those numbers you got can not be right...

Ohh okay, I will do that now.

Pin 3 to Pin 8: 1.000 (with the little "k Ω " logo next to it)
Pin 3 to Pin 4: 2.100 (with the little "m Ω " logo next to it)

Does that look any better?

Also, when I tried turning the motherboard on by plugging everything in again, it wouldn't even turn on anymore. I mean the LED strip and power indicator turn on, but nothing happens when I jump start it anymore. I tried different case power buttons and a separate power supply, but still nothing. I'm not sure what's going on.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Ohh okay, I will do that now.

Pin 3 to Pin 8: 1.000 (with the little "k Ω " logo next to it)
Pin 3 to Pin 4: 2.100 (with the little "m Ω " logo next to it)

Does that look any better?

Indeed.
Now when you connect your flasher again, connect both wires from motherboard pin#8 and pin#3 to pin #8 on the flasher.
Repeat the flashing procedure from that point and post the result.

We are forcibly removing write protection by doing that.

PS - do not use the sequence this time, just press write, then press verify.

Also, when I tried turning the motherboard on by plugging everything in again, it wouldn't even turn on anymore. I mean the LED strip and power indicator turn on, but nothing happens when I jump start it anymore. I tried different case power buttons and a separate power supply, but still nothing. I'm not sure what's going on.

I do not see any point in trying to POST before you know that the BIOS is properly flashed and updated. Also, pls state what CPU are you trying to install i3-7100.

 

[timmllnsw]

True, that is another nice to have tool. It works if the BIOS is OK though - those power-on-self-test codes are generated by BIOS.

True, that they are. And a BIOS used to be far more solid than they are now. But that's neither here nor there. I really hope you get this thing going. It doesn't strike me as being that damaged for some reason. It's probably a lone capacitor, or something like that.

Just remember that it's a cold soldering process they use today. Be careful getting heat around that board. There's no getting around having to use a desoldering iron if you find the bad component though. Do any of the capacitors look swollen or bloated?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Indeed.
Now when you connect your flasher again, connect both wires from motherboard pin#8 and pin#3 to pin #8 on the flasher.
Repeat the flashing procedure from that point and post the result.

We are forcibly removing write protection by doing that.

PS - do not use the sequence this time, just press write, then press verify.


I do not see any point in trying to POST before you know that the BIOS is properly flashed and updated. Also, pls state what CPU are you trying to install i3-7100.

Update: you need to try to use USB 2.0 port for flashing, for unknown reason flashing via USB 3.1/3.0 is causing errors on my flasher, and so might be on yours. Not sure why for now, but please try with USB 2.0 port or HUB the usual way first, then (if it fails) go ahead with the above.

 

[eloh!]

Update: you need to try to use USB 2.0 port for flashing, for unknown reason flashing via USB 3.1/3.0 is causing errors on my flasher, and so might be on yours. Not sure why for now, but please try with USB 2.0 port or HUB the usual way first, then (if it fails) go ahead with the above.

Oh shoot, okay, should I try the flashing with removing write-protect first, and if the error still shows up, then use a USB 2.0? My motherboard and case only have USB 3.0, so I will need to put everything on a separate system.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Oh shoot, okay, should I try the flashing with removing write-protect first, and if the error still shows up, then use a USB 2.0? My motherboard and case only have USB 3.0, so I will need to put everything on a separate system.

First, pls try the usual way on USB 2.0.

 

[eloh!]

First, pls try the usual way on USB 2.0.

Sounds good, will do.

 

[timmllnsw]

Sounds good, will do.

Sounds good, will do.

Okay. I had just realized I hadn't clarified whether you had cleared CMOS or not, but I see your flashing the BIOS, so that should probably do it. I don't think anything residual should be left if you don't clear it first.

Also, you have checked that power lead between the PSU and the CPU, have you not? I should probably read the thread again before asking, but I'm feeling lazy today. Sorry bout that.

 

[eloh!]

Hey guys, apologies for the late response but I have tried the flashing with the USB 2.0 and the same issue happened. I will now try writing it with wires 3 and 8 in the flasher's pin 8 socket. Should I do this method on USB 2.0?

Edit: I am trying this method on the USB 2.0 but it is having trouble reading the IC. Could this be because of the two wires in one socket, or should I keep playing around with it until it works again? My flasher is really touchy in general, I was just a little curious.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Hey guys, apologies for the late response but I have tried the flashing with the USB 2.0 and the same issue happened. I will now try writing it with wires 3 and 8 in the flasher's pin 8 socket. Should I do this method on USB 2.0?

Edit: I am trying this method on the USB 2.0 but it is having trouble reading the IC. Could this be because of the two wires in one socket, or should I keep playing around with it until it works again? My flasher is really touchy in general, I was just a little curious.

No, leave it alone, might be a bad IC. Get another one - https://www.ebay.com/i/261519959267

 

[eloh!]

No, leave it alone, might be a bad IC. Get another one - https://www.ebay.com/i/261519959267

Sounds good! I will purchase that soon.
Quick question though, does the numbering need to be identical between my IC and the one you have listed? Also, how will the heating and soldering process be performed if there are two small resistors really close to the chip?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Sounds good! I will purchase that soon.
Quick question though, does the numbering need to be identical between my IC and the one you have listed? Also, how will the heating and soldering process be performed if there are two small resistors really close to the chip?

• For soldering practice, get a DIY toy, rework station, and tweezers (something like this or this will do for starters). You will be able to wrap a piece of foil in a barrel-like shape around the IC working area. You might want to get a bench mat for your workspace.
• The IC I have linked is compatible... It is Winbond W25Q128FVSG, your current one Winbond W25Q128FVSQ

From the BIOS image:
Flash chips in VSCC table:
EF4018 (Winbond W25Q128)
C84018 (GigaDevice GD25x128)
20BA18 (Micron N25Q128)

 

[timmllnsw]

Sounds good! I will purchase that soon.
Quick question though, does the numbering need to be identical between my IC and the one you have listed? Also, how will the heating and soldering process be performed if there are two small resistors really close to the chip?

Please allow me to butt in one more time. Are you still getting that cryptic memory error? Those error messages can be very confusing ......... and frustrating. Your helper here could be correct, that write protection is still in place. But seeing as how manufacturers are allowed to assign as they wish more or less to these addresses, and responsibility for them is then handed off to the OS(which proceeds to assign whatever value it wishes), it's nigh impossible to determine what you are fighting short of writing and running an Assembly program. The error you are getting could mean that:

An item is expected at that address which is not being found, or:

The flasher app is being denied access to that region of memory, or:

The wrong value is being returned, or:

There should be a pointer giving an offset, or:

I will stop right there because the list continues on, and I don't think I should be polluting this thread with too many details on low level programming. But I have always found it helpful to know something further about what's taking place, so I searched until I found a graphic that gives a crude idea about what is taking place:

https://image3.slideserve.com/5672727/1-st-instruction-executed-l.jpg

At any rate, either something is blocking your way, or a bad return causes the flasher to exit with that error. I hope that clarifies something for you.

Good luck.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Please allow me to butt in one more time. Are you still getting that cryptic memory error? Those error messages can be very confusing ......... and frustrating.

We are programming a memory chip. The error means that at this address the data that was written differs from the data that is being read off the IC. Feel free to chime in - it is not A to B conversation topic.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Sounds good! I will purchase that soon.
Quick question though, does the numbering need to be identical between my IC and the one you have listed? Also, how will the heating and soldering process be performed if there are two small resistors really close to the chip?

While you are waiting to get it, there is one more thing we can try... Get things connected again but do not flash anything. Lets read the register content, and see if we can change it.
Press the arrow on the Lock icon and choose "read SREG", post what you get there.

https://imgur.com/l3HNndB

 

[timmllnsw]

We are programming a memory chip. The error means that at this address the data that was written differs from the data that is being read off the IC. Feel free to chime in - it is not A to B conversation topic.

Memory chip? Well, excuse me, my bad. I had the impression this was strictly a BIOS flash (albeit being done by an unusual method). Yes, I'm hip to the differences in value. But I was concerned regarding the error message. They can be ............. misleading at times.

It sounds good then. The only thing I'm wondering about; considering the original description of this problem I read, is about the integrity or quality of that connection between the PSU and CPU? For some reason, I have the impression that this board isn't hurt. I've seen so many weird errors since UEFI became the law of the land , and this just has the same feel to it. Know where I'm coming from?

I mean, it's not like this arena wasn't sorely in need of upgrading. All those years of loading drive parameters through ten bit holes in some table in low system memory ................ and that's just one example. But they do seem to be having some trouble smoothing out the wrinkles in the design. Do you think this is a bad component? Or just a bad value that's stuck in some table? One the system can't reset before it defaults on error?

That's the impression I get anyway. Some transistor embedded in some chip is off when it should be on ............... or vice versa. Hence that behavior with the LED's when it's trying to boot ......................... but I could just be getting the wrong impression too.

 

[eloh!]

Hello!
I hope you guys are doing well!
I am still waiting for the BIOS chip to arrive, but I do have the soldering kit now. I will play around with that for the time being and I will let you guys know when the chip arrives.

 

[eloh!]

Hey guys!

I am sorry for disappearing for quite some time. Recently got busy with school and work, but now I have some time to work on the chip again!
To catch up with my situation, my soldering station came in, the BIOS chips came in, and I feel I am comfortable enough to return with the motherboard's BIOS flashing procedure. I have not touched the motherboard since we have last talked, so I cannot imagine anything is different there.

Right now, my current plan is to flash one of the new BIOS chips and later replace it on the motherboard. However, the programming software is not reading the new chip. I had to resort to the flashing clip because the SOP8 socket was too small for my BIOS IC. I could have been lining it up wrong, but the IC's legs appeared to be too wide for the socket's connectors when opened.

My flasher was always touchy, but I just wanted to ask if I should entirely restart the programmer (install, drivers, etc) because I am returning after such a long time? If not, I will continue to play with the flasher until it finally reads the IC.

 

[vov4ik_il]

ask if I should entirely restart the programmer (install, drivers, etc) because I am returning after such a long time?

Unless anything has changed, I do not see any sense doing it.

 

[eloh!]

Unless anything has changed, I do not see any sense doing it.

Okay, sounds good. I am still having trouble getting it to read, but I will work on it more in hopes that I can get this thing working again.
Would you happen to have any suggestions on any methods that would ensure the best connection between the flasher and the IC?
I used a multimeter from the ends of my jumper wires/clip to the bottom of the 1.8V adapter, and there was a present connection. Also, I used the multimeter on the 1.8V adapter to the bottom connections of the USB base, and there too was a connection for each pin.
I don't know why the programmer can't read the chip. Could it be that some of the pins are installed backward or anything? I could have sworn that everything is installed the same way as last time.

 

[vov4ik_il]

Would you happen to have any suggestions on any methods that would ensure the best connection between the flasher and the IC?

Soldering to a pad.

Could it be that some of the pins are installed backward or anything? I could have sworn that everything is installed the same way as last time.

Disassemble and reassemble again, it might be that the adapter is not fitted properly.

 

[eloh!]

Soldering to a pad.

Will do. I might experiment with that instead.

Disassemble and reassemble again, it might be that the adapter is not fitted properly.

I have reassembled it many times already. While doing it, though, the orange "RUN" light would occasionally turn on, but I didn't have enough time to try reading the IC while it is on. Should adjusting until that light turns on be my goal when trying to make a good connection?

 

[vov4ik_il]

Will do. I might experiment with that instead.


I have reassembled it many times already. While doing it, though, the orange "RUN" light would occasionally turn on, but I didn't have enough time to try reading the IC while it is on. Should adjusting until that light turns on be my goal when trying to make a good connection?

You should not do any connections while it is attached to a USB port and receives power.

 

[eloh!]

You should not do any connections while it is attached to a USB port and receives power.

Oh, okay. Since I have been fiddling with it while plugged in throughout my first experience with it and now, is it possible that there may be damage caused that may cause a lack of reading the IC?