[SOLVED] Can I Simply Replace my CPU with one that suits my needs better such as Ryzen?

maciashector54

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Sep 8, 2018
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So my question is if i could just replace the CPU and maybe sell it to get a CPU that'll be a better fit for me? I want to be able to stream and game without any technical issues and perhaps even VR. I also enjoy drawing using pencil and plan to broaden my spectrum of art so i plan to get a drawing pad and software to help improve my ability so im hoping that the CPU can help more than the one i currently have. Also any CPU recommendations? Here are my specs.

Intel i5-8600k
Asus Prime z370-a
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Windforce
Patriot Signature Line 8GB (2 x 4GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400
600 Watt Power Supply
Cooler Master Hyper Evo 212
1TB harddrive

Thank you.
 
Solution
That's one of EVGA's worst models. It is not a good model and certainly not up to the standards of the rest of your system. I would start thinking about replacing it with a better quality unit, and keeping that one around just for the purpose of testing in the event of any future problems that you need to eliminate PSU based problems with, for yourself, or friends, family, etc.

I'd just about guarantee that unit will start showing signs of problems with that system sooner rather than later if you continue to use it with that high demand configuration.

If you plan to overclock, there are a LOT of options out there that will work. Those options vary from region to region.

These are my USUAL recommendations, and for that CPU I'd stick...

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
1. No, you can't put a Ryzen CPU on that motherboard.
AMD=/= Intel.

2. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that i5-8600k you already have.
Possibly change to an i7-8700k
https://ark.intel.com/products/126684/Intel-Core-i7-8700K-Processor-12M-Cache-up-to-4-70-GHz-
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8700K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07598VZR8

But I think maybe changing to an SSD would be far more immediate benefit.
And maybe replace the RAM to 16GB instead of the current 8.
 
If you want to upgrade something that might make a difference, give us the model of your power supply.

Usually, when people post their system specs and ONLY post the PSU capacity, it's because the model they have is poor quality and they don't want anybody to know it, or they are simply unaware of the enormous importance of having a high quality power supply.

Consider this, EVERY single problem you could have on a computer system whether it is a hardware failure or simply a lack of performance, CAN be caused by the use of a cheap power supply that either has problems or is simply unable to sustain the capacity that is listed on it's label.

Give us the model number of yours and we can tell you whether that might be something you should address right away or if in fact what you have is already pretty good.

And as USAFRet has indicated, an SSD would be a really, really good idea too. And if you are, or have plans, to overclock that CPU, you're probably going to want a better cooler. That 212 EVO probably isn't going to cut it if you decide to overclock that six core processor, or, if it does, it's going to spend a lot of time in the loud zone.
 
Your z370 motherboard is incompatible with ryzen.
But, you have some good number of upgrade options for your current motherboard.
The strongest would be a i9-9900K. likely overkill, but it is the best there is today.
With a current bios level(1002), you can support 9th gen processors.
CPU-Z or the bios screen will document your current level.
The Z370 chipset is not as robust for voltage control compared to Z390, so your overclocking with a 8 core may not be as good as it could be.

 

kraelic

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Feb 12, 2006
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You should be able to get a bios update for the ASUS Prime Z370-A that would allow you to use up to the i9 9900k, 8 cores 16 threads. up from your 8600k 6 core 6 threads.

If you want to go ryzen, you would have to replace cpu and motherboard
 
That's one of EVGA's worst models. It is not a good model and certainly not up to the standards of the rest of your system. I would start thinking about replacing it with a better quality unit, and keeping that one around just for the purpose of testing in the event of any future problems that you need to eliminate PSU based problems with, for yourself, or friends, family, etc.

I'd just about guarantee that unit will start showing signs of problems with that system sooner rather than later if you continue to use it with that high demand configuration.

If you plan to overclock, there are a LOT of options out there that will work. Those options vary from region to region.

These are my USUAL recommendations, and for that CPU I'd stick to 140mm fan models rated for 140w TDP or higher if you plan to overclock to any significant degree.

Keep in mind this is a very limited listing of ONLY my most commonly preferred coolers. There are a great many others out there that are perfectly good. I'd ask for an opinion on a given cooler before purchasing it though. Click the spoiler box to see the list.

Below is my list of preferred CPU AIR coolers, also known as Heatsink fans (HSF).

Do not look here for recommendations on water/liquid cooling solutions. There are none to be found.


They are basically listed in order of preference, from top to bottom. To some degree that preference is based on known performance on similarly overclocked configurations, but not entirely. There are likely a couple of units that are placed closer to the top not because they offer purely better performance than another cooler which is below it, but potentially due to a variety of reasons.

One model might be placed higher than another with the same or similar performance, but has quieter or higher quality fans. It may have the same performance but a better warranty. Long term quality may be higher. It may be less expensive in some cases. Maybe it performs slightly worse, but has quieter fans and a better "fan pitch". Some fans with equal decibel levels do not "sound" like they are the same as the specific pitch heard from one fan might be less annoying than another.

In any case, these are not "tiered" and are not a 100% be all, end all ranking. They are simply MY preference when looking at coolers for a build or when making recommendations. Often, which HSF gets chosen depends on what is on this list and fits the budget or is priced right at the time due to a sale or rebate. Hopefully it will help you and you can rest assured that every cooler listed here is a model that to some degree or other is generally a quality unit which is a lot more likely to be worth the money spent on it than on many other models out there that might look to be a similarly worthwhile investment.

Certainly there are a great many other very good coolers out there, but these are models which are usually available to most anybody building a system or looking for a cooler, regardless of what part of the world they might live in. As always, professional reviews are usually an absolutely essential part of the process of finding a cooler so if you are looking at a model not listed here, I would highly recommend looking at at least two or three professional reviews first.

If you cannot find two reviews of any given cooler, it is likely either too new to have been reviewed yet or it sucked, and nobody wanted to buy one in order to review it plus the manufacturer refused to send samples out to the sites that perform reviews because they knew it would likely get bad publicity.

IMO, nobody out there is making better fans, overall, than Noctua, followed pretty closely by Thermalright. So if you intend to match case fans to the same brand on your HSF, those are pretty hard to beat. Of course, Corsair has it's Maglev fans, and those are pretty damn good too, but since they don't make CPU air cooling products, only AIO water coolers, they cannot join the party.


Noctua NH-D14 (Replace stock fans with NF-A14 industrialPPC 2000rpm)
Noctua NH-D15/D15 SE-AM4
Noctua NH-D14 (With original fans)
Thermalright Silver arrow IB-E Extreme
Phanteks PH-TC14PE (BK,BL, OR or RD)
Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Universal
Thermalright Legrand Macho RT
FSP Windale 6
Scythe Mugen 5 rev.b
Thermalright Macho (Direct, 120)
Noctua NH-U14S
Scythe Mugen max
BeQuiet dark rock pro (3 or 4)
BeQuiet dark rock (3 or 4)
Deepcool Assassin II
Thermalright true spirit 140 (Direct, Power, BW)
Cryorig H5
Noctua NH-U12S
Phanteks PH-TC12DX (Any)
Phanteks PH-TC14S
Cryorig H7
Deepcool Gammaxx 400
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
 
Solution

maciashector54

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Sep 8, 2018
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thank you so much for the help. and i have currently run into an issue with the boot up. im not sure if you can check on my profile but it wont start up to my desktop home and it only goes to the bios. you think you could help me out?
 
Click below:

For basic troubleshooting on systems that stick or won't POST, but were working fine previously, or after adding new hardware, I recommend doing the following.

First, check everything as indicated here:


If that turns up nothing then move on to the following and in cases where it may be redundant based on the steps at the previous link, I'd just check again anyhow. It's easy to miss something the first time around.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If the system will not POST after resetting the CMOS, then there is a hardware problem of some kind.

At that point I would again power off, remove all memory except one module, installed in the A2 slot for most modern motherboards, or whatever slot your motherboard user manual specifies for single module population according to it's stated population rules. This matters. Boards MAY run with memory in various slots, but there ARE specific memory slots that are intended to be used with one, two, three, four or more modules installed and the manual will outline which of them should be used based on how many modules you are using.

If you have integrated graphics either on the motherboard itself, or through the motherboard using the CPU integrated graphics, then I'd connect your monitor cable to one of the motherboard video outputs and completely remove the graphics card from the system.

Now remove the CMOS battery again for another five minutes, then put it back again and once again try to POST. If you still get no love, try again using a different memory module.

If you do NOT have integrated graphics to use while troubleshooting, then you can either move along to other steps or try a different graphics card if you have one, or can borrow one.

If you still fail to get the system to POST then I'd recommend you pull the CPU cooler and remove the CPU to check for bent pins or an improperly installed CPU. For AMD systems the pins are usually on the CPU. For Intel platforms the pins are on the motherboard. You may need magnification of some kind to see whether any of the pins look bent, out of place or just "wrong" compared to the pattern of the rest of the pins. A cheap magnifying glass or high powered reading glasses should suffice if you have old eyes like me.

If the CPU and motherboard both look fine, then clean all the thermal paste off the top of the CPU and bottom of the CPU cooler heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and a lint free microfiber cleaning cloth, coffee filter or other lint free cloth. Apply fresh TIM (Thermal interface material aka thermal paste) according to your preferred method or the CPU cooler instructions and reinstall the CPU and CPU cooler.

Now it would be advisable to unplug all connected drives, reset the CMOS, again, and try again to POST or enter the BIOS. If you still cannot get the sytem to POST then you probably need to remove everything from the case and bench test the system according to the steps found here:


If your system is failing to display signs of power or other random power related issues, it would be advisable to purchase or borrow a DVOM (Digital volt ohm meter) or analog multimeter and do some basic power testing of the PSU to determine if there is a power delivery issue as follows:


If you still haven't found any indication of what the problem is, a few last resort measures would be to make sure the PSU is plugged directly into the wall and is NOT using any kind of UPS, power strip or extension cord.

Verify that the CPU cooler IS connected to the CPU_FAN header, as some systems will not even power up if there is no RPM signal from the CPU fan.

Anything beyond these basics is going to require some further conversation and possibly the replacement of your motherboard or CPU, as if everything listed above has checked out, there isn't much left it could be aside from one of those two things.
 

kraelic

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Feb 12, 2006
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Sorry, meant to hit the spoiler and clicked the best answer by accident.

For it to go into bios it is not seeing the boot drive or the windows install has gone bad. Make sure the hard drive has not come loose. Maybe a bad cable power or data. maybe the port on the board. If you added an m.2 sata it might disable a sata on the motherboard. Sometimes an added pci express card can cut lanes that would have been for sata 5/6
 
Unfortunately if you need video assistance for advanced troubleshooting procedures, and can't sort through it using explicit written ones, then you probably ought to think about getting somebody WITH the experience, or a professional, to do it for you. Sorry, but that's just plain truth.

There are no video tutorials from any reputable builders or techs that I know of that actually go through the complete process to any reasonable extent. You'll likely find individual procedures and tests on Youtube, but you won't be likely to find an entire, relevant, troubleshooting video that is applicable to your particular issue, from beginning to end. That's doubtful to the point of almost 100% uh uh.
 

maciashector54

Prominent
Sep 8, 2018
22
0
510
I understand, and well i had this teacher in hugh school who knows about PCs so i might pay him a visit to see if he knows what wrong. I hope its not the hard drive ot psu so i wouldnt have to spend too much money. Also my Network adapter iny revieves about 5mb/s download speed so itll toe forever to reinstall all my games
 
The FIRST thing I would do, and yes, it means spending money, is replace that power supply. ALL of your problems could be related to that alone. It could also NOT be related to that, but since we already know it's a terrible unit and the symptoms are relevant, I'd sure start there.
 


Click the spoiler box for my recommendations.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

80plus only has relevance if the platform is already known to be a good one AND you only know whether the platform is good or not when there are professional reviews of that specific unit

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3, BR (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=563

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.