I currently have Vengeance RED LED 16gb 2666mhz and i want to upgrade to 32gb but i cannot find the red variant anywhere as the led line is discontinued. But i managed to find the exact same ram with same speed with white leds. would this work in my pc with my red led ram?
That CPU only natively supports speeds up to DDR4 2400, which means IF your memory is running at 2666mhz you must be either using a Z series motherboard OR your board supports OC speeds of 2666mhz (Which is probably only likely IF it's a Z series board, despite the fact that the CPU is locked. It's possible that it supports 2666mhz though depending on the board model which would be terribly helpful to know). Either way, you must either have the XMP profile enabled or you manually have assigned the speed, again, IF it is actually running at 2666mhz.
What that means is that, unlike many of the 8th and 9th gen CPUs that natively support JEDEC specified speeds of up to 2666mhz, you are likely using a configuration that is outside the purview of the JEDEC specifications so there is an increased probability that any memory that does not come together in ONE kit, may not play nice together. It may, but it just as well may not. If the memory was all within the defaults for the JEDEC spec then it's LIKELY they would run together regardless of whether it's mixed memory or not, so long as the specs are all fairly similar and possibly even if they weren't.
But once you go outside the JEDEC specs, and get into XMP territory or manual configurations, all that pretty much goes out the window and you get into a situation where you are running a risk and rolling the dice on whether or not you THINK the memory from the two disparate kits will have been assembled using fully compatible components and that is not true in many cases. So again, it might, it might not. Here is one example of a single part number that has wildly different makeup because these manufacturers tend to use the components that they have readily available, which will meet the requirements for a given part number, at the time of the production run. And from one production run to the next, they may not be constructed of the same memory chips, have the same number of ranks, have the same number of rows, or any combination of those factors as seen here:
I think you will probably be fine, because at 2666mhz you are RIGHT on the border of what is JEDEC spec and what is outside that, so the chances are good that the motherboard and memory controller will be capable of finding common ground for any differences between sticks, but we've seen a lot of weird things happen including kits that DID all come together, but one stick wouldn't play nice with the rest of them OR kits with a bad stick that gets warrantied and the replacement stick won't play nice with all the other sticks and has to be replaced as a full SET rather than just one stick, and this isn't an uncommon occurence.
Below is my normal spiel on this, if you click the spoiler.
The odd man out, or, unmatched memory
At the forefront of many memory issues is a well known and accepted (Throughout the enthusiast and builder communities anyhow) notion that while memory modules that did not come together in a matched set that was tested by the manufacturer to be compatible, certainly CAN still work together, often it does not. Right up front I'll tell you that if you are trying to get sticks to work in the same machine together that were purchased separately, even if they are otherwise identical according to the kit or model number or if they would seem to have identical timings and voltage requirements, there is a very good chance that you simply will not be able to do that. There is also a pretty fair chance that you might be able to if you are willing to take your time, listen to and understand what you are being told and follow the steps necessary to determining if they will "play nice" or not.
A word of advice. If you just purchased this memory, and for whatever reason you bought two separate sticks of the same memory instead of buying them together in a matched set, see if you can return them for a refund or credit towards buying a similar or same set of matched sticks that come together in a kit. It is ALWAYS better to have matched modules because from brand to brand, or even within the same brand, in fact, even when the part numbers are IDENTICAL, there can be anything from simply slightly different memory chips that were sourced from different bins at the end or beginning of a production run to entirely different configurations altogether even though the model numbers seem to be the same. Some manufacturers even reuse model numbers when they discontinue a product. Point being, memory is only the same for sure when all sticks came out of the same blister pack or packaging and were sold as a tested kit.
In order to determine if differences in the memory, or a need for increased voltage when using more than one stick (Especially if you are running three or more sticks) are responsible for the problems you are having you will always want to begin your troubleshooting process by attempting to boot the machine with only a single stick of memory installed. Also, for practically every consumer motherboard that's been sold since at least as far back as about 2014, the A2 memory slot which is the second slot over from the CPU socket, is THE slot that is most commonly designated for the installation of a single memory module. Slots A2 and B2 are almost always the slots specified in the motherboard memory population rules for use with two modules. If you need to install a third module I have no opinion on which of the remaining slots to use for that, but typically since the A1 slot is right next to the CPU socket and often interferes with the CPU cooler or fan, I'd say the B1 slot was probably just as good.
Honestly, I don't ever recommend that you HAVE three modules installed anyhow. Using memory in pairs is always a better option so that normal dual channel operation will occur. And that's another thing. When it comes to memory there are no "single channel" or "dual channel" memory modules. There are ONLY memory modules and the motherboard and CPU architecture will determine whether or not dual, triple or quad channel operation is possible based on the architecture and how many modules are in use. Occasionally though there are situations where it might make sense to run three modules and some boards CAN use three modules in a FLEX type mode where two of the modules will operate in dual channel while the third oddball module will run in single channel. I'd avoid oddball configurations though if possible because many motherboards will simply run ALL modules in single channel mode when an odd number of modules are installed.
If you think you will ever need 16GB of memory, then buy 16GB of memory from the start so you can get it all in a matched set that has been tested, and eliminate a lot of problems right from the start.
That CPU only natively supports speeds up to DDR4 2400, which means IF your memory is running at 2666mhz you must be either using a Z series motherboard OR your board supports OC speeds of 2666mhz (Which is probably only likely IF it's a Z series board, despite the fact that the CPU is locked. It's possible that it supports 2666mhz though depending on the board model which would be terribly helpful to know). Either way, you must either have the XMP profile enabled or you manually have assigned the speed, again, IF it is actually running at 2666mhz.
What that means is that, unlike many of the 8th and 9th gen CPUs that natively support JEDEC specified speeds of up to 2666mhz, you are likely using a configuration that is outside the purview of the JEDEC specifications so there is an increased probability that any memory that does not come together in ONE kit, may not play nice together. It may, but it just as well may not. If the memory was all within the defaults for the JEDEC spec then it's LIKELY they would run together regardless of whether it's mixed memory or not, so long as the specs are all fairly similar and possibly even if they weren't.
But once you go outside the JEDEC specs, and get into XMP territory or manual configurations, all that pretty much goes out the window and you get into a situation where you are running a risk and rolling the dice on whether or not you THINK the memory from the two disparate kits will have been assembled using fully compatible components and that is not true in many cases. So again, it might, it might not. Here is one example of a single part number that has wildly different makeup because these manufacturers tend to use the components that they have readily available, which will meet the requirements for a given part number, at the time of the production run. And from one production run to the next, they may not be constructed of the same memory chips, have the same number of ranks, have the same number of rows, or any combination of those factors as seen here:
I think you will probably be fine, because at 2666mhz you are RIGHT on the border of what is JEDEC spec and what is outside that, so the chances are good that the motherboard and memory controller will be capable of finding common ground for any differences between sticks, but we've seen a lot of weird things happen including kits that DID all come together, but one stick wouldn't play nice with the rest of them OR kits with a bad stick that gets warrantied and the replacement stick won't play nice with all the other sticks and has to be replaced as a full SET rather than just one stick, and this isn't an uncommon occurence.
Below is my normal spiel on this, if you click the spoiler.
The odd man out, or, unmatched memory
At the forefront of many memory issues is a well known and accepted (Throughout the enthusiast and builder communities anyhow) notion that while memory modules that did not come together in a matched set that was tested by the manufacturer to be compatible, certainly CAN still work together, often it does not. Right up front I'll tell you that if you are trying to get sticks to work in the same machine together that were purchased separately, even if they are otherwise identical according to the kit or model number or if they would seem to have identical timings and voltage requirements, there is a very good chance that you simply will not be able to do that. There is also a pretty fair chance that you might be able to if you are willing to take your time, listen to and understand what you are being told and follow the steps necessary to determining if they will "play nice" or not.
A word of advice. If you just purchased this memory, and for whatever reason you bought two separate sticks of the same memory instead of buying them together in a matched set, see if you can return them for a refund or credit towards buying a similar or same set of matched sticks that come together in a kit. It is ALWAYS better to have matched modules because from brand to brand, or even within the same brand, in fact, even when the part numbers are IDENTICAL, there can be anything from simply slightly different memory chips that were sourced from different bins at the end or beginning of a production run to entirely different configurations altogether even though the model numbers seem to be the same. Some manufacturers even reuse model numbers when they discontinue a product. Point being, memory is only the same for sure when all sticks came out of the same blister pack or packaging and were sold as a tested kit.
In order to determine if differences in the memory, or a need for increased voltage when using more than one stick (Especially if you are running three or more sticks) are responsible for the problems you are having you will always want to begin your troubleshooting process by attempting to boot the machine with only a single stick of memory installed. Also, for practically every consumer motherboard that's been sold since at least as far back as about 2014, the A2 memory slot which is the second slot over from the CPU socket, is THE slot that is most commonly designated for the installation of a single memory module. Slots A2 and B2 are almost always the slots specified in the motherboard memory population rules for use with two modules. If you need to install a third module I have no opinion on which of the remaining slots to use for that, but typically since the A1 slot is right next to the CPU socket and often interferes with the CPU cooler or fan, I'd say the B1 slot was probably just as good.
Honestly, I don't ever recommend that you HAVE three modules installed anyhow. Using memory in pairs is always a better option so that normal dual channel operation will occur. And that's another thing. When it comes to memory there are no "single channel" or "dual channel" memory modules. There are ONLY memory modules and the motherboard and CPU architecture will determine whether or not dual, triple or quad channel operation is possible based on the architecture and how many modules are in use. Occasionally though there are situations where it might make sense to run three modules and some boards CAN use three modules in a FLEX type mode where two of the modules will operate in dual channel while the third oddball module will run in single channel. I'd avoid oddball configurations though if possible because many motherboards will simply run ALL modules in single channel mode when an odd number of modules are installed.
If you think you will ever need 16GB of memory, then buy 16GB of memory from the start so you can get it all in a matched set that has been tested, and eliminate a lot of problems right from the start.
Dunno. Mixing ram kits is always a gamble. Sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes it needs adjustment, especially true with 4 sticks, may need a bump to the memory or memory controller, and sometimes it just doesn't work at all. Ram in a kit is factory tested for compliance and compatability of the sticks in that kit. With 2 kits, you become the tester as there's no way to tell otherwise.
It "could" work automatically, but it's unlikely. Usually when you add new memory the system tries to train and reconfigure but when the memory specs are beyond what is supported by default on that platform/hardware you usually need to at the very least go into the BIOS and enable the XMP profile. Which is why it could go either way because while the primary timings might be the same for two different memory kits, the secondary and tertiary timings may not be, and if they are not, the system may be able to find a happy medium, usually erring to the side of maximum stability and compatibility rather than performance, but in some cases there may simply be a need for a lot of trial and error or even just an inability to get them to work together at all.
I'd say since the kits are practically identical, in general at least, you should probably be fine but you will likely want to add the new kit, reset the CMOS/BIOS to refresh it's configuration and then go into the BIOS and enable the XMP profile. That is likely the very least you will have to do. It's possible they might work right out of the box, plug and play, but it's doubtful. You may even need to increase the DRAM voltage due to the addition of two sticks. Those advertised specifications you see for each of those kits, including the nominal voltage, are for two sticks, not four, so it may or may not be that easy. As mentioned, there is never any way to know until you try. Even with a four DIMM kit that DID all come together, it might still require some additional configuration in some cases. Often actually when dealing with four or more modules at XMP speeds above the default JEDEC specs.