Cat 6 run

jwent333

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Dec 16, 2015
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10,510
Greetings,

Recently ran cat 6 cable throughout my home. I have ran cable to multiple rooms with no issues until now. Last night I ran about 40 feet of cat 6, it was basically a straight run along basement ceiling and curved (no kinks) upward to pull through second floor, I terminated both ends and tested the run. Here is what I do not understand. When using the main tester one end (upstairs) is fine the other end, remote tester (basement) tests with 7 and 8 led lights blinking at same time. I have terminated that end 4 times without resolve. Funny thing is, if I switch switch the testers around, remote tester upstairs, main tester downstairs, now the downstairs test fine and upstairs has the blinking 7 and 8 led lights. I am a novice and I hope this posting is not to confusing. Thought my tester might be bad, so I plugged cable into network switch other end into my pc Ethernet port.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I apologize again if I sound confusing, because at this point I am,

Thank you
Jeff
 
Solution
Makes sense in some ways. I think the 7 & 8 lights together mean (meant) the wires were shorted. Should have been solid (no blinking) but point of the short was just enough to open and close and cause the blinking. Your re-termination fixed it.

Maybe someone familar with the Tonor will pass along the information on interpreting the lights and light patterns.
I doubt this is your problem, but did you run solid or stranded cable?

I've read that solid is recommended for longer runs although I always see people using stranded, i.e. builders. So, if you did this yourself, then I wonder if you read the same thing and went with solid cabling (which is what I would do). If you did, then I've also read that there are some restrictions on running solid cable around corners. You say there are "no kinks", but I wonder if something did get caught up.

Also, you should make sure you're using the appropriate plugs to match solid or stranded wire.

Lastly, just a tip, but if you're running this yourself and are still working on it: Definitely consider running TWO cables everywhere for redundancy so that if something goes bad later in your cable... you've always got a backup :)

http://www.scpcat5e.com/solid-vs-stranded-category-cables-ezp-80
http://www.cableorganizer.com/articles/difference-between-solid-stranded-rj45-plugs.html
 
Yes, I ran solid core wire. I am wondering if something is caught somewhere. I also have the correct plugs for the cable. I will do some troubleshooting again tonight.

Thank you
 
Not Cat6 aluminum clad copper wire I trust......

The cable is running directly from the router to the destination computer as I follow your description of the run.

And you are terminating with RJ-45 connectors for solid wire versus terminating in wall jack terminations. I think that that is the case but wish to make sure I understand correctly. No punch downs anywhere?

You also mentioned a network switch but I think you were referring to testing a known good connection to determine if the tester was or was not working is that correct?

What tester are you using? What meaning is given to wires 7 & 8 "flashing"? E.g., are the other three pairs LED's showing solid color? Are there any color differences used to present different test results.
 
I am sorry, the cable is going from network switch to a keystone, I have no punch downs anywhere. The cable is solid copper core and i have all the right rj-45 connectors and keystones for the wire. I am using Tonor TM RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 CAT5 CAT 6 UTP Network Lan Cable Tester Test Tool, whicjh is a very cheap tester. I have used this on other runs with no issues.

You also mentioned a network switch but I think you were referring to testing a known good connection to determine if the tester was or was not working is that correct? That is correct.

The test is working fine to my knowledge. When testing a cat 6 line the green led lights count down 1-8 on one end of the line the other counts down 1-6 and 7 and 8 light together. No other colors are present.
 
On the back of the Tonor tester is there any quick reference to the diagnostic meaning of the lights?

For example: if lights 7 & 8 flash or light together that may indicate a short in that pair somewhere. Maybe under a staple along the run....

I googled for a Tonor User Guide/Manual - no luck so far. Do you have any "manual" that came with the Tonor?

Still not following your connectivity: One end of the problem cable is an RJ-45 connector plugged into a network switch. The other end is terminating in a keystone? That is a punchdown connection.

Can you send pictures of both cable ends? Maybe someone with sharp eyes will spot something. But first we do need to understand the meaning of the 7 & 8 lights.

 
No instructions or manual came. I will get picture after work and post them.

I did not use staples to secure the run I used Cable Clamps and Clips

Still not following your connectivity: One end of the problem cable is an RJ-45 connector plugged into a network switch. The other end is terminating in a keystone? That is a punchdown connection. Yes that is correct and I thought you were referring to a punc down patch panel.
 
Okay. Thanks.

Have not found a user manual but I did find a user review that indicated both lights on when the tester itself was broken. Just lights on - no mention of flashing.

Do you have any ethernet cables that are known to be good - actually maybe in use? Test a couple of those cables and see if the light pattern occurs.
 
I think that if 7 & 8 flash together on a known working ethernet cable then the tester is probably broken or otherwise unreliable.

Unless there is some specific but unknown meaning (for lack of a manual) to the flashing... E.g., weak batteries.

No luck finding a user manual for "Tonor" or any look-a-like products that were made for Tonor to put their own label on.

If you recently purchased the Tonor take it back and exchange it for another unit. And hopefully get a manual.

 
I am sorry about my posts, I should not being this while working because I am not clarifying enough. What I meant to say was that the tester works fine on every other cable I have made or purchased, no blinking lights. The blinking lights only happen on this particular run.

I am home now so I will start the troubleshooting.

Thank you for your patience with me and all your advice
 
Makes sense in some ways. I think the 7 & 8 lights together mean (meant) the wires were shorted. Should have been solid (no blinking) but point of the short was just enough to open and close and cause the blinking. Your re-termination fixed it.

Maybe someone familar with the Tonor will pass along the information on interpreting the lights and light patterns.
 
Solution

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