Question Changed router, now the powerline adapter does not work ?

Jan 20, 2025
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I use a powerline adapter in order to use my PC and I recently upgraded my speed via Spectrem. Due to this they sent me a new modem and router and after setting it up and activating them, the powerline adapter gets little to no speed. Before the change I would get around 90 mbs if I did and speed test and now I am getting 8. The internet itself is faster as I have tested it on my laptop. I have reset the powerline adapters multiple times, changed outlets, tried all available ethernet ports on the back of the router, all to no improvement. The adapter is a TP-Link AV2000 and the router is whatever the router is that Spectrum gives you, Model: SAX2V1S.
 
I use a powerline adapter in order to use my PC and I recently upgraded my speed via Spectrem. Due to this they sent me a new modem and router and after setting it up and activating them, the powerline adapter gets little to no speed. Before the change I would get around 90 mbs if I did and speed test and now I am getting 8. The internet itself is faster as I have tested it on my laptop. I have reset the powerline adapters multiple times, changed outlets, tried all available ethernet ports on the back of the router, all to no improvement. The adapter is a TP-Link AV2000 and the router is whatever the router is that Spectrum gives you, Model: SAX2V1S.

the outlets have to be on the same line in your house i believe to work properly so same pathway.

if you changed any 1 of the original plugs before to a diffrent outlet you might be on a diffrent wire or power line.
 
the outlets have to be on the same line in your house i believe to work properly so same pathway.

if you changed any 1 of the original plugs before to a diffrent outlet you might be on a diffrent wire or power line.
They were in the same outlet and the speed still went down drastically, I only tried changing outlets after that.
 
I would start with the basics. Does the ethernet port show gigabit on both ends? What insights does the TP-Link utility show ?
The ports are gigabit on both ends and on TP-Link Utility it shoes that I am connected and the speed between the two devices is about 345 mbps, I am getting internet it is just that it is about 80-90% slower than it was before I upgraded the internet speed plan/modem and router. Nothing has changed other than that.
 
The ports are gigabit on both ends and on TP-Link Utility it shoes that I am connected and the speed between the two devices is about 345 mbps, I am getting internet it is just that it is about 80-90% slower than it was before I upgraded the internet speed plan/modem and router. Nothing has changed other than that.
Your router might be trying to be "smart". It might be limiting traffic that is trying to monopolize it so that "gaming traffic" can not be interrupted.
What is the exact model of the router ?
 
on the back of the modem itself there are 3 ports

10mbs
100mbs
1000mbs

im assuming number 3 is fastest.

info is quite scare on it apart from a manual.

alot of hate about it though.
What's the model number of the modem?

BTW, that router is a low end motorola running openWRT if you want to know with a badly configured network stack. I would use a different router.
There is nothing smart with them as all it tries to do is prioritise bandwidth by utilising the connect metric from dhcpd which isn't a good concept to do in the first place.

Also I recommend dumping the power line adaptor as that was more of a consumer gimmick than anything really practical. If you can't wire the place , then buy some surface mount flat plastic conduit and run ethernet cable through that.
 
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What's the model number of the modem?

BTW, that router is a low end motorola running openWRT if you want to know with a badly configured network stack. I would use a different router.
There is nothing smart with them as all it tries to do is prioritise bandwidth by utilising the connect metric from dhcpd which isn't a good concept to do in the first place.

Also I recommend dumping the power line adaptor as that was more of a consumer gimmick than anything really practical. If you can't wire the place , then buy some surface mount flat plastic conduit and run ethernet cable through that.
I will disagree that powerline networking is a gimmick. If the OP can get solid 100Mbit connectivity, and not have to deal with the WAF (wife acceptance factor), then I say, good enough.
 
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Also I recommend dumping the power line adaptor as that was more of a consumer gimmick than anything really practical.
Powerline is totally practical. Used it to replace the wireless link to my son's Xbox in the extension: no more complaints about lag. Used it to extend the WiFi to a dead spot upstairs in a far corner of the house: 70 - 80 Mbps which is plenty for there. Plastic conduit would be the worst solution given the house layout, plus it doesn't really work with doorways.

Just the basic Spectrum router, model is SAX2V1S
So, so many complaints out there about that model. Even reports that it's flat-out incompatible with things like Sonos. You said they sent you "a new modem and router". I'm guessing it's combined? If it is, can you find a way to put it in modem mode and use a third-party decent router? If they did in fact send you two devices, ditch their router and get your own. It might be an extra cost but it'll be yours, whereas I think this SAX thing will give you no end of grief.
 
I definitely don't see positive posts about that router. I also don't see much technical info about configuration... Not a good sign.
I don't have that router, so I can't provide much more help since documentation is poor.
What router would you recommend? This is something I have very limited knowledge in.
 
I will disagree that powerline networking is a gimmick. If the OP can get solid 100Mbit connectivity, and not have to deal with the WAF (wife acceptance factor), then I say, good enough.
you can disagree all you want.

Because I have been called to service in the past to remove junk segments like power line and moca.

What they fail in mostly is continuous transmissions like ip cameras and distributed audio.
 
you can disagree all you want.

Because I have been called to service in the past to remove junk segments like power line and moca.

What they fail in mostly is continuous transmissions like ip cameras and distributed audio.
I understand that the power line adapter isn't ideal, but it was working well for me until I changed routers. As I said after the router and modem change, my speeds decreased by about 90%. Nothing else changed.
 
In general the powerline should have no idea what is plugged into it.

I forget if you can log into the powerline units but they should still have lights on the ethernet port on the powerline unit. Can you tell if the port on the powerline unit that is plugged into the router is running at gigabit speeds....it could be running at 10mbps although you seldom see that on modern equipment.

I would first try some other ethernet cables. There are massive amounts of fake ethernet cable on the market, mostly those flat ones. Some equipment is much more sensitive than others when you are using cables that do not meet the specs for ethernet cables.

I was somewhat surprised that wifi6e routers have come down that much in price. Most times unless you have wifi6e equipment to take advantage of it the older wifi5 is good enough for most people. Now that there is not a huge differnce in the price I see no issues buying it even if you can't use the feature.

Do you still have your old router or was that owned by spectrum. Mostly it is to try to have some other equipment connected to the power line unit. A small switch inbetween the new router and the power line unit might make a difference.

Your problem has to be a cable or port issue. The actual format of the ethenet data being sent though the powerline units is the same no matter what created it.
 
The main electronics design issue with the power line network is that the power adaptors are not truly isolated and cause a ground loop with the ethernet. Other issues comes into play with smart meters injecting their noise onto AC.
Of course they are truly isolated. You would have massive ground loops between all equipment of any type if there was not isolation. There are tiny transformers on ever lead to provide magnetic isolation. In addition most equipment also has optical isolators between the transformers and the rest of the electronics to provide another later of signal filtering.

Noise on the AC line itself is always the risk BUT any of the source of interference is inside your house and at least you have some ability to do something about it. Wifi is subject to interfering wifi signals from both inside and outside your house. If you use a mesh system to extend the signals you now have 2 wifi signals that can take interference and if you bought cheap mesh systems they retransmit the repeated signal on the same radio channels actually causing interference with it own signals.

One key thing to realize on this forum a lot of the people posting are playing online games. They do not really care about the total bandwidth. Online games maybe use 1mbps when you are playing. Wifi is always the worst choice for online games. Unlike almost every other form of data tranmission the wifi itself does error correction. It retransmits damaged data which causes random delays in packets. Online games use they delays between packets to sync the server with the client. Game actually would prefer damage data to just be discarded.
 
Of course they are truly isolated.
I find that most of those switching dc adaptors having AC leakage just as bad as laptop power supplies and found that when some devices like networking equipment fed better DC power, the noise on the signal inside the cable is significantly lower.

High Bandwidth can either be low latency with small packets or higher latency with big packets. It depends on the network demand and software application at the moment and the quality of the system depends on how it handles both types of traffic simultaneously.

There is nothing wrong with wifi 6 actually anything wifi 4 and above does fine, but you have to use nice equipment that has better CPUs inside. So there are a lot of no names as well as low end consumer (tp link, qnap, netgear) that don't make the cut into that class of equipment.