Question Changed the case, now pc won't boot

[Ionut_52]

I changed my case after the old one gave out, but now the motherboard won't receive power. It booted once, i saw ithe front panel switches were flipped, turned it off and now it won't receive power. Tried flipping them back (still won't work).
Pc specs are :
Xeon x5660 (overclocked at 4ghz)
Asus rampage 2 extreme X58 mobo
24gb ram
XFX rx 580 8gb
1tb HDD

 

[Darkbreeze]

What do you mean by "after the old one gave out"? There isn't much other than the front panel connections and the power switch that can "give out" on a case. In fact, there isn't anything else. And those things are easily replaceable, so how exactly did your case "give out"?

If by "front panel switches were flipped" you mean that you had them plugged into the wrong places on the motherboard, then there is every possibility that you've smoked something. Try power it on without ANY of the front panel connections attached to the motherboard.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button

You will FIRST want to turn off the switch on the back of the power supply (Move to the "0" position) and then unplug it from the wall. Leave it that way for about five minutes. Now unplug ALL wiring coming from the case front panel. Then plug it back in, flip the PSU switch back on and try the method outlined at the link above.

What is the EXACT model of your power supply and how old is it? Is it about the same age as your motherboard?

 

[Ionut_52]

What do you mean by "after the old one gave out"? There isn't much other than the front panel connections and the power switch that can "give out" on a case. In fact, there isn't anything else. And those things are easily replaceable, so how exactly did your case "give out"?

If by "front panel switches were flipped" you mean that you had them plugged into the wrong places on the motherboard, then there is every possibility that you've smoked something. Try power it on without ANY of the front panel connections attached to the motherboard.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button

You will FIRST want to turn off the switch on the back of the power supply (Move to the "0" position) and then unplug it from the wall. Leave it that way for about five minutes. Now unplug ALL wiring coming from the case front panel. Then plug it back in, flip the PSU switch back on and try the method outlined at the link above.

What is the EXACT model of your power supply and how old is it? Is it about the same age as your motherboard?

by flipped i meant the reset was power and power was reset, nothing that serious.
the psu is a decently new one (5-6 months) it's a Serioux Solax 650w 80+ bronze
also by case giving out i meant that is was leaking electricity, not a lot but enough to be annoying

 

[Darkbreeze]

What do you mean by "leaking electricity"? This is not even a thing. Cases don't HAVE electricity so they can't leak electricity. If you mean you were getting shocked when you'd touch the case, then something was shorted to ground. Motherboard or cable or mini board that controls the front panel connections, SOMETHING had to be shorted directly to the case to some degree for there to be any current or "shock" (Or what I guess you are calling "leaking electricity") present. Cases are only there to provide a place for hardware to be mounted and to protect hardware from dangers like hands, spills or touching something inside while carrying a static charge from the carpet, etc. and to provide a way for there to be the possibility of a pressure differential for the purpose of various cooling configurations so that airflow can be used to more efficiently move heat away from components.

Cases don't have current running through them, they are not there to provide ground for anything (Fully functional system will run just fine with no case sitting on top of a cardboard box) and they should never shock, zap, buzz or in any other way show signs of being charged. If they do, you have some OTHER problem.

Additionally, you have a garbage power supply. I deal with this subject all the time. On a daily basis. I am at least moderately highly informed on what models and brands out there are worth consideration and which ones are not, as I very frequently read every available professional review that gets posted on the various tech sites or Youtube, IF they are reviews by anybody worth looking at, and in 35 years of doing this and working on systems in general I have never once heard of "Serioux Solas" mentioned in any review and if no reviews of a companies product exist from a professional reviewer, chances are 99.9999% likely that they suck.

More importantly, JonnyGuru who is Jon Gerow, head of engineering and development for Corsair in their power supply division, SAYS specifically that that company is pure garbage so even if we couldn't already surmise that, which we can, this should be all the confirmation anybody would need to absolutely know it was true.

[SOLVED] - I am searching for a PSU for heavy using .

Hello , i had a PSU that burned under the heavy load and now im searching for one that can sustain my PC specs(8 GB DDR3 , i5 2500k performance BIOS - no overclocking , RX 580 8 GB , 3 120mm case fans , 1TB HDD and 120 SSD)using my PC for heavy gaming and 4K video watching and i have this two...

forums.tomshardware.com

Get a real power supply. You aren't "saving money" or doing yourself any favors by buying cheap or low quality power supplies.

Please use both of the following resources when looking for a reliable model.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Ionut_52]

What do you mean by "leaking electricity"? This is not even a thing. Cases don't HAVE electricity so they can't leak electricity. If you mean you were getting shocked when you'd touch the case, then something was shorted to ground. Motherboard or cable or mini board that controls the front panel connections, SOMETHING had to be shorted directly to the case to some degree for there to be any current or "shock" (Or what I guess you are calling "leaking electricity") present. Cases are only there to provide a place for hardware to be mounted and to protect hardware from dangers like hands, spills or touching something inside while carrying a static charge from the carpet, etc. and to provide a way for there to be the possibility of a pressure differential for the purpose of various cooling configurations so that airflow can be used to more efficiently move heat away from components.

Cases don't have current running through them, they are not there to provide ground for anything (Fully functional system will run just fine with no case sitting on top of a cardboard box) and they should never shock, zap, buzz or in any other way show signs of being charged. If they do, you have some OTHER problem.

Additionally, you have a garbage power supply. I deal with this subject all the time. On a daily basis. I am at least moderately highly informed on what models and brands out there are worth consideration and which ones are not, as I very frequently read every available professional review that gets posted on the various tech sites or Youtube, IF they are reviews by anybody worth looking at, and in 35 years of doing this and working on systems in general I have never once heard of "Serioux Solas" mentioned in any review and if no reviews of a companies product exist from a professional reviewer, chances are 99.9999% likely that they suck.

More importantly, JonnyGuru who is Jon Gerow, head of engineering and development for Corsair in their power supply division, SAYS specifically that that company is pure garbage so even if we couldn't already surmise that, which we can, this should be all the confirmation anybody would need to absolutely know it was true.

[SOLVED] - I am searching for a PSU for heavy using .

Hello , i had a PSU that burned under the heavy load and now im searching for one that can sustain my PC specs(8 GB DDR3 , i5 2500k performance BIOS - no overclocking , RX 580 8 GB , 3 120mm case fans , 1TB HDD and 120 SSD)using my PC for heavy gaming and 4K video watching and i have this two...

forums.tomshardware.com

Get a real power supply. You aren't "saving money" or doing yourself any favors by buying cheap or low quality power supplies.

Please use both of the following resources when looking for a reliable model.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

the thing is most reliable models are way out of my budget. im 16, and live in romania where my family's only source of income is my father's 600 euro salary, and im not about to spend more than 40 euro for a psu so this psu is the most "reliable" option for me.
and about the electricity you're right i should have not ignored it for so long

 

[Darkbreeze]

I understand that, fully, and feel your pain. It does not however change anything. And no, just because that is all you can afford does not in ANY way mean that it is "reliable" as an option, in any sense of the word.

The PSU doesn't magically become a good option just because it's all you can afford. It's still the same piece of crap it would be for somebody who COULD afford a better one but chose not to.

Just because you can't afford to put gas in your car does not meant that because you have to get to work, putting water in it is going to magically work just because you need it to. It's still going to cause your car to not function the way it was supposed to and this is no different.

Until you get a reliable power supply, and you better make sure it IS reliable before spending a bunch of of money on one otherwise you are just throwing your money away so please READ the information at the links I provided which will at least help you to avoid buying another POS PSU, then anything else you do is just a waste of time because nothing is ever going to work right without a known good power supply that is both reliable and capable of supporting it's rated capacity. First clue for yours should have been that it says it's a 650w model but it's specifications label clearly outline the 12v rail can only support 600w.

Power supplies that can't support the full advertised capacity based on the required amperage listed on the label are ALWAYS better used as door stops than they are as power supplies.

 

[Ionut_52]

I understand that, fully, and feel your pain. It does not however change anything. And no, just because that is all you can afford does not in ANY way mean that it is "reliable" as an option, in any sense of the word.

The PSU doesn't magically become a good option just because it's all you can afford. It's still the same piece of crap it would be for somebody who COULD afford a better one but chose not to.

Just because you can't afford to put gas in your car does not meant that because you have to get to work, putting water in it is going to magically work just because you need it to. It's still going to cause your car to not function the way it was supposed to and this is no different.

Until you get a reliable power supply, and you better make sure it IS reliable before spending a bunch of of money on one otherwise you are just throwing your money away so please READ the information at the links I provided which will at least help you to avoid buying another POS PSU, then anything else you do is just a waste of time because nothing is ever going to work right without a known good power supply that is both reliable and capable of supporting it's rated capacity. First clue for yours should have been that it says it's a 650w model but it's specifications label clearly outline the 12v rail can only support 600w.

Power supplies that can't support the full advertised capacity based on the required amperage listed on the label are ALWAYS better used as door stops than they are as power supplies.

i actually did saw that when i first got it but i thought it was ok since the pc doesn't use more than 500w, i also thought it was decent since they used to sell like hot cakes back when the gpu shortage was still around.
Can you give me an opinion on buying a proper psu but used, does it make any difference or am i still buying junk?

 

[Ionut_52]

I understand that, fully, and feel your pain. It does not however change anything. And no, just because that is all you can afford does not in ANY way mean that it is "reliable" as an option, in any sense of the word.

The PSU doesn't magically become a good option just because it's all you can afford. It's still the same piece of crap it would be for somebody who COULD afford a better one but chose not to.

Just because you can't afford to put gas in your car does not meant that because you have to get to work, putting water in it is going to magically work just because you need it to. It's still going to cause your car to not function the way it was supposed to and this is no different.

Until you get a reliable power supply, and you better make sure it IS reliable before spending a bunch of of money on one otherwise you are just throwing your money away so please READ the information at the links I provided which will at least help you to avoid buying another POS PSU, then anything else you do is just a waste of time because nothing is ever going to work right without a known good power supply that is both reliable and capable of supporting it's rated capacity. First clue for yours should have been that it says it's a 650w model but it's specifications label clearly outline the 12v rail can only support 600w.

Power supplies that can't support the full advertised capacity based on the required amperage listed on the label are ALWAYS better used as door stops than they are as power supplies.

Sorry but new info the psu is not dead, i found an older pc in the attic and it works, tested multiple times so the psu is not the problem and that means it's a motherboard related issue

 

[DaleH]

What do you mean by "after the old one gave out"? There isn't much other than the front panel connections and the power switch that can "give out" on a case. In fact, there isn't anything else. And those things are easily replaceable, so how exactly did your case "give out"?

If by "front panel switches were flipped" you mean that you had them plugged into the wrong places on the motherboard, then there is every possibility that you've smoked something. Try power it on without ANY of the front panel connections attached to the motherboard.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button

You will FIRST want to turn off the switch on the back of the power supply (Move to the "0" position) and then unplug it from the wall. Leave it that way for about five minutes. Now unplug ALL wiring coming from the case front panel. Then plug it back in, flip the PSU switch back on and try the method outlined at the link above.

What is the EXACT model of your power supply and how old is it? Is it about the same age as your motherboard?

Check the wiring on the 24pin connector on the motherboard. I recently had a similar problem. I had inadvertently pulled the wire out of one of the pins (it was the ground pin) and was making intermittent contact.

 

[Ionut_52]

Check the wiring on the 24pin connector on the motherboard. I recently had a similar problem. I had inadvertently pulled the wire out of one of the pins (it was the ground pin) and was making intermittent contact.

i just checked with another motherboard and the psu works, its probably something motherboard sided

 

[Ionut_52]

i just checked with another motherboard and the psu works, its probably something motherboard sided

Check the wiring on the 24pin connector on the motherboard. I recently had a similar problem. I had inadvertently pulled the wire out of one of the pins (it was the ground pin) and was making intermittent contact.

i actually solved it somehow, reseated the ram and now power flows, its still a mystery what happened but most definitely user error, so my bad

 

[DaleH]

i just checked with another motherboard and the psu works, its probably something motherboard sided

You're probably right, but it could still be a bad or intermittent connection on one of the connectors that go to the motherboard. Try wiggling the wires around on the connectors and then retrying to start it. It might help you to pin point it.
DaleH

 

[Ionut_52]

You're probably right, but it could still be a bad or intermittent connection on one of the connectors that go to the motherboard. Try wiggling the wires around on the connectors and then retrying to start it. It might help you to pin point it.
DaleH

thanks for the advice i will try it if im ever finding issues again but rn i fixed it somehow, how i did it is still a making me second guess since all i did was a ram reseat but ram should not make the whole thing not accept power, but for now i can go back to my games

 

[Darkbreeze]

I've only been working on and troubleshooting systems since like 1982, and been a tech in one form or another for the last 25 years, and have helped like 9400 people resolve their problems on this forum alone over the last ten years, but since you want to walk in circles I won't be the one to stand in the way. Good luck to you both.