Question Check my spec

Hi Prototype_0088.

Let's start by a simple question. What are you gonna do with this system? Are you gonna play games and that's it or are you gaming and doing editing stuff etc?

Why do you need 28TB of storage? 1700 dollars in drives???? Why? That's crazy.

Please don't tell me this system is for gaming only. That would be a lot of money spent for nothing.
 
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Glad you asked.
Its abit of everything. A display to a 144hz 65 inch lg tv on the other side of the wall, living room entertainment. PC to Stream, dvd, and stored video. Kids and other half. Another to a main monitor. Another to an armed 24 inch portrait display monitor (it is to stretch to a work table). Main game i play is warframe (not very demanding i know), but i would like a decent Cyberpunk 2077 playthrough, not as far as full ultra settings. these at times could be simutaniously.
I need the 2.4 wifi for multiple non ai smart devices around the house. Smart plugs to fish tank lights. The m.2 and SSD is for the main system. the HDD is for intermal storage and will add more when i have the money. ( i already have 25-30tb in multiple exturnal HDDs).
Dont worry im not a streamer . I do minor video cutting and editing only for work. Basic Autocad and other software for CNC and printing. I occasionally borrow and use a light 3d scanner. My current PC i had built for me years ago is dying and struggling to cope with what im currently putting it through.
Im not into RGB, i want quiet stealth. Its not set in stone but id like a computer that is good for 3-5 years (excluding maintenance and watercooling if needed) without upgrades.
Where could i cut the specs to save myself some money in the long run.

*Edit: The exturnal storage is Compressed DVDs and audio. I have a very nice sound system that i run FLAC files through yes i know not widly used.
This build (as listed above) price at currently at £3800 ($5200), where and when possible to buy.
 
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Since you are sinking all that money in it, I would suggest at least one Samsung 980 pro for OS and main programs. it's almost twice as fast. Considering your work it would be an asset.
Be warned, 5950x is one hoooot CPU, nothing less than good 360 AIO would be good enough, Suggest you look at Arctic Liquid Freezer 360, it's all black, no lights and very quiet. You can get at least 3 case fans because it's 3 fans can take role of as many case fans.
 
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I did consider 2x S.980.p , therefore, would it be worth dropping to the ryzen 9 5900. compensating on budget?

In regards to water cooling. Should i drop the the Noc CPU cooling fan and go straight for the EKWB quantum momentum monoblock. The thicc 360 rad in the bottom of the case with a 15 d5 pump res in the botom of the case. GPU can be done at a later date.

Any other considerations?

*Edit: what are your opions on the ASUS EKWB GeForce RTX™ 3080 or the INNO3D GEFORCE RTX 3080 ICHILL FROSTBITE. I have the option to to have one or the other held for me, either of these two at my local pc store.
 
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I did consider 2x S.980.p , therefore, would it be worth dropping to the ryzen 9 5900. compensating on budget?

In regards to water cooling. Should i drop the the Noc CPU cooling fan and go straight for the EKWB quantum momentum monoblock. The thicc 360 rad in the bottom of the case with a 15 d5 pump res in the botom of the case. GPU can be done at a later date.

Any other considerations?

*Edit: what are your opions on the ASUS EKWB GeForce RTX™ 3080 or the INNO3D GEFORCE RTX 3080 ICHILL FROSTBITE. I have the option to to have one or the other held for me, either of these two at my local pc store.
Radiator in the bottom of the case is worst place to put it. It should always be highest point or at least above the pump or monoblock.
 
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Karadjgne

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Radiator in the bottom of the case is worst place to put it. It should always be highest point or at least above the pump or monoblock.
That only applies to AIO's. For a full loop, it doesn't matter as any air in the loop ends up in the reservoir. Having the reservoir above the pump is the only real consideration. You can have a rad on bottom as intake and a rad on top as exhaust and thats all the fans required.
 

Vic 40

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Since you are sinking all that money in it, I would suggest at least one Samsung 980 pro for OS and main programs. it's almost twice as fast.
Maybe just one for the real workload. Don´t think windows and all installed programs need the absolute fastest ssd. If you have a program that you use for work simply install it at the 980 pro and use it as scratch disc if in need of one.
 

Karadjgne

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Drop the QVO. It's unnecessary expense. Use a couple of smaller drives instead, far cheaper.

The pc as a whole smacks of over-achievement in the wrong direction. I would strongly suggest a Nas instead. Everything is central to a good network, so I'd also look into Win Pro instead of Home, better suited for the job. Most all of this can be done with a Smart Hub such as Alexa or Google offerings. Keep the gaming side of the pc, whatever that needs to be, which isn't much more than the gpu, but everything goes through the Nas.

Most network routers will be dual band, 5GHz and 2.4GHz, so work/game can be seperate and non interfering.

Having a decent Nas in a well setup raid array offers not only data security but also data protection, apart from the external drives that can be used monthly or whenever as a data backup of the entire array. Lumping everything onto a few huge drives is less secure than multiple smaller drives that can be replaced far easier if necessary.

That goes for pc equipment too, alleviating the necessity of keeping the gaming pc running 24/7 as it's a seperate and non-essential link.
 
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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/Ynhdz7

Ok I have taken onboard some of the comments. Iv altered the SSD (Still using the samsun though) for raid and backup. Switched to win pro. Alexa and google control isnt an option. The tech i run have there own programs and are not smart compatable. I have an old laptop that is dedicated to run that list of devices. I want one PC to run it all.

You may of seen i included a comander F6. I was intrigued. It comes with thermal sensors. I can clip and plug the cables, use them to make a thermal read out for the front of my case. Coolent temperature and case temperature. 5.25 has now turned into a read out panel for when the PC is running minimal operation with the monitor off. If something fails like a fan or the coolent temperature rises beyong a set limit it starts to audibly alarm. An early warning system. This way i can turn/wake the computer up or turn the monitor back on and aknowledge the issue. What do you think of this idea?

So this build is for longevity. Im going to directly go for watercooling the cpu (EK waterblock). Iv included various fittings in the budget. Just need advice on the 3080 now. Does anyone have an opinion on the ASUS EKWB GeForce RTX™ 3080 or the INNO3D GEFORCE RTX 3080 ICHILL FROSTBITE. As idealy im a novice at PC building. So stripping a new 3080 to waterblock it, unerves me. Ether of the two are also cheaper then the combined cost of a 3080 and waterblock upograde when available. Am i wrong in thinking that the CPU and GPU will thank me for keeping them cooler longer, therefore increasing the lifespan of the units?
 
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I would strongly suggest a Nas instead. Everything is central to a good network, so I'd also look into Win Pro instead of Home, better suited for the job. --- Keep the gaming side of the pc, whatever that needs to be, which isn't much more than the gpu, but everything goes through the Nas.
---
Having a decent Nas in a well setup raid array offers not only data security but also data protection, apart from the external drives that can be used monthly or whenever as a data backup of the entire array. Lumping everything onto a few huge drives is less secure than multiple smaller drives that can be replaced far easier if necessary.
Actually you have a point. One nas unit with the multiple HDDs would fit my agenda better. I wouldnt need the selected PSU either, just a lower wattage one that wouldnt need swapping at a later date. Initial cost would be lower also. I would not have to modify the internals of the case either. It would keep it open and better air circulation.
 

USAFRet

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2TB NVMe
2TB NVMe
16TB HDD
8TB SSD


Take some of that drive budget, and put it in a NAS box. 2 or 4 bay QNAP or Synology.
That will hold your movie and music collection, as well as the necessary backups of all the other house systems.
 
Feb 4, 2021
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2TB NVMe
2TB NVMe
16TB HDD
8TB SSD

Take some of that drive budget, and put it in a NAS box. 2 or 4 bay QNAP or Synology.
That will hold your movie and music collection, as well as the necessary backups of all the other house systems.
I have. the ssd is now 4TB, and im shelfing the 16TB idea for a nas sytem later on. I can justify the 2x 2TB NVMe in the budget now.
 

Karadjgne

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Loops are not cheap. Not to do them right. It's more than just throwing parts in them. There's lots of research involved especially if you have an end goal like I did with mine. I wanted small, dual 240mm and silent. It's more than lowest temps, loops are designed for that, sure low temps are possible but over sizing rads doesn't mean anything alone. The right blocks, the right pump, the right fans, the right rads. All have variables.

Personally, from my experience EK blocks are decent. I think their designs are more towards showcase than performance. So far Watercool Heatkiller has shown the best overall results. For cpu blocks Optimus for Ryzens is #1, the Raystorm Pro is right behind. For ddc pumps, EK. Not sure on D5's. Rads have too many variables to count, noise being a huge factor there as thicker rads take more rpms generally so it becomes a fine balance of expectations and compromises, and even then, most rads have a range of best efficiency so matching fans becomes more a necessity than an rgb show. Is it beneficial to go with 2x 45mm 240 rads or 1x 60mm 360 rad...

If you can't afford to spend 6 months planning, researching, testing, comparing, deciding on the build and all its various components then you'll not understand your loops limits. Loops are about temp maintenance more than temp maximums. I'd rather have a loop that varies from 50-60°C no matter the loads, than a loop that jumps around from 30-70°C depending on load.

My loop is so silent I was forced to buy a rgb mouse, just so the wife could tell if it was actually On. She shut the pc down half a dozen times and then call me saying it wasn't working, did she break it. I achieved my goal of super-silent. A $1200 air cooled build that cost just shy of $3000 to finish with a loop. And took a year to accomplish.
 

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