Question Chinese motherboard and fan ?

[simoflag99]

Hi everyone!

I'm a new user in this forum and English isn't my mother language, so I hope you can understand my problem. Also, I'm not tech and informatic science expert, maybe this will not help.

Since building a PC always fascinate me, I've created my first PC with the following components in order to keep the final price low (I will use this PC for studying, watch some streaming content and maybe emulate some PS2 games):

• Motherboard: Machinist X99 Mr9a;
• CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2640 v3 (in future I would like to upgrade it to E5-2667 v4);
• RAM: 4 * 4 GB DDR4 Atermiter 2666 GHz ECC;
• GPU: Asus Rog Strix 1060 6 GB;
• PSU: Itek BD700-700W;
• Case: I don't know the brand because I've bought it used on Italian 2nd hand site. It had four preinstalled fans. The vendor tell me taht this case is low-cost range.

While I'm watching some YT reviews about this motherboard, I've discovered that it doesn't provide a correct reading of MoBo temperature (I don't know what exactly this mean, maybe is it refer to VRM temperature? I will appreciate if you claryfying me this detail) due to thermal sensor that doesn't work and also the inability to manage properly the fans spin that are linked with motherboard through three pin. So I start to search a solution to this problem, since I would like to take advantage of all four pre-installed case fans.

At first, I've found a manual fans controller on Aliexpress (link below). A simple solution to my problem, but sure not the best and the most comfortable in the middle/long term.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802433879139.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.2.3f197a05laWIOL&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.333918.0&scm_id=1007.40000.333918.0&scm-url=1007.40000.333918.0&pvid=08884cec-3788-48b0-8363-41985b0a4012&_t=gps-idcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.333918.0,pvid:08884cec-3788-48b0-8363-41985b0a4012,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8115#881&pdp_npi=3@dis!EUR!6.72!0.85!!!!!@211b5e2516814288366426008effa3!12000021434300280!rec!IT!&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

After that, it occurred to me (always thanks to YouTube) that I might use a fans hub and on Amazon I've found NZXT model AC-CRF0-B1, connectable with motherboard using the USB 2.0 input.

But if the Hub above is linked to motherboard through the USB 2.0, how could the hub work properly?

At this point, after more research on this argument, I've found a video about a thermal sensor based on Arduino technologies and I'm asking if maybe a solution like this could send its results to the fan hub in order to make it work.

After all this, what do you suggest to do to solve this problem? How?

Thanks a lot to everyone will answer this discussion

 

[Aeacus]

While I'm watching some YT reviews about this motherboard, I've discovered that it doesn't provide a correct reading of MoBo temperature (I don't know what exactly this mean, maybe is it refer to VRM temperature? I will appreciate if you claryfying me this detail) due to thermal sensor that doesn't work and also the inability to manage properly the fans spin that are linked with motherboard through three pin.

What temp sensor could be bad, is the CPU temp sensor. Since that is usually used to control fans hooked to MoBo (via BIOS). If the sensor is bad, MoBo has 0 idea what temp CPU has, and thus, can't control fans speed accordingly. Be it DC (3-pin) or PWM (4-pin).

But if the Hub above is linked to motherboard through the USB 2.0, how could the hub work properly?

Via dedicated software. In this case NZXT CAM.

but sure not the best and the most comfortable in the middle/long term.

Depends what you want.

Before i explain further, i need to know if your PC case has one (free) 5.25" external bay? (The one where CD/DVD drive usually sits in.)

 

[simoflag99]

What temp sensor could be bad, is the CPU temp sensor. Since that is usually used to control fans hooked to MoBo (via BIOS). If the sensor is bad, MoBo has 0 idea what temp CPU has, and thus, can't control fans speed accordingly. Be it DC (3-pin) or PWM (4-pin).



Via dedicated software. In this case NZXT CAM.



Depends what you want.

Before i explain further, i need to know if your PC case has one (free) 5.25" external bay? (The one where CD/DVD drive usually sits in.)

I'll respond to all your paragraphs.
- The CPU temperature reading by the motherboard is ok so, based on what you say, fans will not have problem to manage internal case temperature, right?
- The USB 2.0 link can provide the CPU temperature?
- Yes, the case have at least three free front bay.

 

[Aeacus]

The CPU temperature reading by the motherboard is ok so, based on what you say, fans will not have problem to manage internal case temperature, right?

If, from BIOS, you can select fans to follow CPU temp, then yes, there won't be issue controlling the fan speed within BIOS.
Some MoBos offer other ways of fan control as well, besides following CPU temp.

The USB 2.0 link can provide the CPU temperature?

Yes
You can define within software what metric/sensor fans follow to adjust their speed.

Yes, the case have at least three free front bay.

With this, you have options;
1. Hook fans to MoBo and control them via BIOS (meaning that you set a fan curve to the fans).
2. Buy fan hub, which takes the signal from one fan header from MoBo and multiples it across all connected fans. All fans connected to the hub will run in sync and individual fan control is impossible.
3. Buy the NZXT fan controller, whereby using NZXT CAM software to control the speed of your fans.
4. Buy the PCI-E bracket fan controller from AliExpress. Good thing is that it supports up to 8 fans. Bad thing is that one knob controls 2 fans at once and adjusting the fan speed is inconvenient, since you have to reach at the back of your PC case.
5. Buy the external fan controller that sits in your 5.25" external bay.

I'll explain #5 some further, since i have this setup in use (very convenient).

The 3 PCs i have, all have 5.25" external fan controllers;

Spoiler: My fan controllers (click here to view image)

Fan controllers that i have in use in my builds, from left to right;
Skylake - Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB (6 fan support) Specs
Haswell - NZXT Sentry 3 (5 fan support) Specs
AMD - Aerocool X-Vision (5 fan support) Specs
(PCs full specs + more pics in my signature)

Depending on an external fan controller, you can hook 5-6 fans to them and have individual control over the fans. This, in my opinion, is the most convenient way to control the PC fans, since I, myself, decide how fast each and every fan runs. Rather than doing it via BIOS or some software. Also, external fan controller looks nice and adds additional eyecandy to the PC (like i've done, matching the colors).

 

[simoflag99]

If, from BIOS, you can select fans to follow CPU temp, then yes, there won't be issue controlling the fan speed within BIOS.
Some MoBos offer other ways of fan control as well, besides following CPU temp.



Yes
You can define within software what metric/sensor fans follow to adjust their speed.



With this, you have options;
1. Hook fans to MoBo and control them via BIOS (meaning that you set a fan curve to the fans).
2. Buy fan hub, which takes the signal from one fan header from MoBo and multiples it across all connected fans. All fans connected to the hub will run in sync and individual fan control is impossible.
3. Buy the NZXT fan controller, whereby using NZXT CAM software to control the speed of your fans.
4. Buy the PCI-E bracket fan controller from AliExpress. Good thing is that it supports up to 8 fans. Bad thing is that one knob controls 2 fans at once and adjusting the fan speed is inconvenient, since you have to reach at the back of your PC case.
5. Buy the external fan controller that sits in your 5.25" external bay.

I'll explain #5 some further, since i have this setup in use (very convenient).

The 3 PCs i have, all have 5.25" external fan controllers;

Spoiler: My fan controllers (click here to view image)

Fan controllers that i have in use in my builds, from left to right;
Skylake - Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB (6 fan support) Specs
Haswell - NZXT Sentry 3 (5 fan support) Specs
AMD - Aerocool X-Vision (5 fan support) Specs
(PCs full specs + more pics in my signature)

Depending on an external fan controller, you can hook 5-6 fans to them and have individual control over the fans. This, in my opinion, is the most convenient way to control the PC fans, since I, myself, decide how fast each and every fan runs. Rather than doing it via BIOS or some software. Also, external fan controller looks nice and adds additional eyecandy to the PC (like i've done, matching the colors).

- I'm not sure that from the Chinese BIOS of my MoBo I could set this type of regulation. I can't do a test yet because I don't have the RAMs needed at home (not delivered from express courier, they will arrive soon).
- The options that you have written are all interesting. I'm not very interesting in aesthetics, for me a computer that work properly is enough.
Thing that worry me is the possibility to don't supply a sufficient fresh air flow with manual regulation. I prefer for this reason the software regulation.
In the Italian Tom's Hardware forum another person advise me to buy a fan splitter in order to manage all the fans in my case using a 4-pin headers. The splitter is this.

ARCTIC Systemlüfter-Hub

Amazon.it

What do you think about this solution?

 

[Aeacus]

In the Italian Tom's Hardware forum another person advise me to buy a fan splitter in order to manage all the fans in my case using a 4-pin headers. The splitter is this.

ARCTIC Systemlüfter-Hub
https://amzn.eu/d/97nbQ82
What do you think about this solution?

This is the #2 option i talked about.

Proper splitter is Y-splitter, like this Noctua one,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY

In my opinion, fan hub (or Y-splitter) is poor choice since it doesn't give you individual fan control, instead, ALL fans run at the same speed. But it's one of the cheapest options.

Thing that worry me is the possibility to don't supply a sufficient fresh air flow with manual regulation. I prefer for this reason the software regulation.

Software regulation means that all fans follow one sensor. E.g CPU temp. With this, following situation can happen:
If you have good CPU cooler on CPU, the CPU temps are low, thus, case fans also spin slower. But GPU in your system is much hotter and can thermal throttle, since case fans follow the CPU temp, and not the GPU temp.

Manual and individual control is better in this regard, since you can monitor the temps via software (or via temp probes), and adjust each and every fan accordingly. Also, with manual and individual control, you can adjust the air pressure inside the PC case, either: positive, neutral or negative. (I'm running slight negative pressure for optimal cooling).

E.g the Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB fan controller that i have in my main build, it also comes with 6 temp probes, that i've spread all over the PC. With it, i can monitor temperatures no software ever can, depending on where i put the temp probe. E.g PSU temp, overall temp inside PC case, ambient temp outside the PC case (to know the difference). Rest of the probes i've stuck into: CPU heatsink, GPU heatsink and on top of 2.5" SATA SSD.

 

[simoflag99]

This is the #2 option i talked about.

Proper splitter is Y-splitter, like this Noctua one,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY

In my opinion, fan hub (or Y-splitter) is poor choice since it doesn't give you individual fan control, instead, ALL fans run at the same speed. But it's one of the cheapest options.



Software regulation means that all fans follow one sensor. E.g CPU temp. With this, following situation can happen:
If you have good CPU cooler on CPU, the CPU temps are low, thus, case fans also spin slower. But GPU in your system is much hotter and can thermal throttle, since case fans follow the CPU temp, and not the GPU temp.

Manual and individual control is better in this regard, since you can monitor the temps via software (or via temp probes), and adjust each and every fan accordingly. Also, with manual and individual control, you can adjust the air pressure inside the PC case, either: positive, neutral or negative. (I'm running slight negative pressure for optimal cooling).

E.g the Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB fan controller that i have in my main build, it also comes with 6 temp probes, that i've spread all over the PC. With it, i can monitor temperatures no software ever can, depending on where i put the temp probe. E.g PSU temp, overall temp inside PC case, ambient temp outside the PC case (to know the difference). Rest of the probes i've stuck into: CPU heatsink, GPU heatsink and on top of 2.5" SATA SSD.

Remember that:
1) I'm not very expert in PC building;
2) the use that I will do of my PC is pretty standard;
3) the build that I've bought aim at keep final cost pretty low.
In order to reach the best quality/cost combo and the better control of internal case temperature, which is your final advice?
Manual or software control?
In case of manual, which fan controller do you advise me?

 

[Aeacus]

Remember that:
1) I'm not very expert in PC building;

Yet, you say this:

building a PC always fascinate me

Meaning, that you'd be willing to take on a bit more complex task than average person would.

If this is not the case, how many case fans are you planning to put inside the PC case? And are those fans 3-pin (DC) or 4-pin (PWM)? Fans make and model (or part number) would be nice to know.

In order to reach the best quality/cost combo and the better control of internal case temperature, which is your final advice?

When factoring in the cost of fan control method, then:
Fans directly to MoBo, if you plan to put in up to 3 case fans.
2-way Y-splitter, if you plan to put in up to 7 case fans.
If more (e.g 8-10 fans), then fan hub.

NZXT internal fan controller gives you more convenient control over the fans, since you can adjust the fan speed within Windows. Having fans hooked to MoBo, is tedious when you have to restart your PC and go to BIOS every time you want to change the fan curve. Also, BIOS in general, doesn't offer that good of customization of fan curve.
Though, i can't tell the cost of NZXT fan controller and if it is cheaper, same or more expensive than 5.25" external bay controller.

Do note that the fan control method isn't the only factor when it comes to the internal temps within PC. What is far bigger of a factor are fans themselves.
For example:
Corsair AF120 fans (specs) with 5.25" external fan controller (manual, individual control), will have far worse cooling for PC, than
Corsair ML120 Pro LED (specs) hooked directly to MoBo (or when using Y-splitter or fan hub).

My setup is high-end, where i have very big emphasis on cooling. Due to this, most fans i have in my PCs are Corsair ML140 Pro LED fans (the bigger version of what i linked above). But i do have few ML120 Pro LED fans as well. Not only i'm using high-end fans (with great performance), i also have 7 case fans, with proper fan orientation (front and bottom - intake, top and rear - exhaust).

 

[simoflag99]

Yet, you say this:


Meaning, that you'd be willing to take on a bit more complex task than average person would.

If this is not the case, how many case fans are you planning to put inside the PC case? And are those fans 3-pin (DC) or 4-pin (PWM)? Fans make and model (or part number) would be nice to know.



When factoring in the cost of fan control method, then:
Fans directly to MoBo, if you plan to put in up to 3 case fans.
2-way Y-splitter, if you plan to put in up to 7 case fans.
If more (e.g 8-10 fans), then fan hub.

NZXT internal fan controller gives you more convenient control over the fans, since you can adjust the fan speed within Windows. Having fans hooked to MoBo, is tedious when you have to restart your PC and go to BIOS every time you want to change the fan curve. Also, BIOS in general, doesn't offer that good of customization of fan curve.
Though, i can't tell the cost of NZXT fan controller and if it is cheaper, same or more expensive than 5.25" external bay controller.

Do note that the fan control method isn't the only factor when it comes to the internal temps within PC. What is far bigger of a factor are fans themselves.
For example:
Corsair AF120 fans (specs) with 5.25" external fan controller (manual, individual control), will have far worse cooling for PC, than
Corsair ML120 Pro LED (specs) hooked directly to MoBo (or when using Y-splitter or fan hub).

My setup is high-end, where i have very big emphasis on cooling. Due to this, most fans i have in my PCs are Corsair ML140 Pro LED fans (the bigger version of what i linked above). But i do have few ML120 Pro LED fans as well. Not only i'm using high-end fans (with great performance), i also have 7 case fans, with proper fan orientation (front and bottom - intake, top and rear - exhaust).

Sorry for the fans, I'm sure that I've already told you. The 2nd hand case that I've bought on Italian used goods e-commerce include four 4-pins RGB fan (I suppose, since the vendor told me that they colouring blue when the PC turn on. I've learned that exist a difference between RGB and ARGB fan), one in front panel, one in back panel and the last two attached to the left side, in front of future CPU cooling fan.
I don't know the fans brand, I don'ask more information about this and also regarding the size of the fans.
At first glance they look large, so I suppose they are all 120 mm fans.
Based on that, I think that a fan internal hub is the best solution to provide for all fans a PWM control, but I refer to your final advice for choose the solution. This is motivated considering that in addiction to the four pins CPU header, in my motherboard there is only another one four pins connector.
I'm not interested to buy an high-end solution because the PC was built with a mix of used parts, AliExpress parts and new part (psu, I don't want to buy a cheap one that potentially K.O. all my build. Before the itek-bd700 I bought a mars gaming mpii650 W, but luckily I discovered that this PSU isn't very good).
I want to build a smart pc that guarantees a good longevity and good performance. Maybe the thermaltake commander and all the Corsair fan are out of my budget and my daily needs.
In addiction of this, consider that I create this pc with a salary from a volunteer activities (just a little more of 400 euros/month), so my budget isn't endless.
Sorry to re-tell you this, I only search a good way to manage all fans I have in order to reach a good internal aeration.
In these days I watched tons of videos and websites to find a solution and maybe I'm a bit confused with all the information that I've learned in the last period

 

[Aeacus]

The 2nd hand case that I've bought on Italian used goods e-commerce include four 4-pins RGB fan (I suppose, since the vendor told me that they colouring blue when the PC turn on.

Just because fan LED turns on and shines blue, doesn't mean the fan is RGB fan.
Heck, if this would be true, my single color Corsair ML140 Pro red LED fans are "RGB fans" as well.

Regarding LED illumination, there are 3 kinds:
1. Single LED color (like my Corsair ML Pro LED series fans. And most likely like your blue LED fans as well.
2. RGB fans, whereby fan has additional +12V 4-pin RGB connector, to connect directly to MoBo. With this, you can change the fan LED color, but all LEDs switch the color at the same time.
3. ARGB fans, whereby fan has additional +5V 3-pin ARGB connector. Either to connect to MoBo or ARGB controller box. With this, individual LED control within the fan is possible (e.g like my NZXT AER140 RGB fans are (amazon), which are controlled by NZXT HUE+ control box).

I've learned that exist a difference between RGB and ARGB fan

Yes, there is. Explained it above.

I don't know the fans brand, I don'ask more information about this and also regarding the size of the fans.
At first glance they look large, so I suppose they are all 120 mm fans.

Turn the fan around and read the label in the middle of the fan, at the fan hub. There it tells the make and model, including part number of the fan.

Btw, it would be hard to tell the fan size, without measuring it.

Based on that, I think that a fan internal hub is the best solution to provide for all fans a PWM control, but I refer to your final advice for choose the solution.

Sure, you could go with internal fan hub as well. I don't mind which fan control method you choose, since in the end, your money and your PC.
Though, with fan hub, you need to be careful and pick the one which actually can support PWM (4-pin fans), since most of them support only DC control (3-pin fans).

E.g Phanteks fan hubs are good ones, since it supports both, 3-pin and 4-pin fans;
Version 1, specs: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
Version 2, specs: https://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB_02.html

psu, I don't want to buy a cheap one that potentially <Mod Edit> all my build. Before the itek-bd700 I bought a mars gaming mpii650 W, but luckily I discovered that this PSU is <Mod Edit>

Regarding PSU, which one are you going to use? The "Itek BD700-700W" you listed above?

Maybe the thermaltake commander and all the Corsair fan are out of my budget and my daily needs.

Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB costed me €49.40. So not that expensive, considering what it can do. (It can even support and control LED strips. But since i already have NZXT HUE+ and LED strips, i don't use that part of my fan controller.)
But Corsair ML Pro LED fans, for sure, are expensive. I payed €30.10 for one 140mm fan (and i have 3 per PC) and €25 per one 120mm fan (got 3x 120mm in my main build and one 120mm in my missuses PC.). With the price of one 140mm fan, you can buy 3-5 cheap fans.

In addiction of this, consider that I create this pc with a salary from a volunteer activities (just a little more of 400 euros/month), so my budget isn't endless.

None of us have endless budget, even me. Even i didn't build my PCs in one day, instead parts purchases were spread over ~2 years, buying few parts at a time.

If you're interested, here is the update log (with pictures) of my main PC, including when i bought which parts and how much i payed for every single part,
pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/bd9J7P

 

[simoflag99]

Just because fan LED turns on and shines blue, doesn't mean the fan is RGB fan.
Heck, if this would be true, my single color Corsair ML140 Pro red LED fans are "RGB fans" as well.

Regarding LED illumination, there are 3 kinds:
1. Single LED color (like my Corsair ML Pro LED series fans. And most likely like your blue LED fans as well.
2. RGB fans, whereby fan has additional +12V 4-pin RGB connector, to connect directly to MoBo. With this, you can change the fan LED color, but all LEDs switch the color at the same time.
3. ARGB fans, whereby fan has additional +5V 3-pin ARGB connector. Either to connect to MoBo or ARGB controller box. With this, individual LED control within the fan is possible (e.g like my NZXT AER140 RGB fans are (amazon), which are controlled by NZXT HUE+ control box).



Yes, there is. Explained it above.



Turn the fan around and read the label in the middle of the fan, at the fan hub. There it tells the make and model, including part number of the fan.

Btw, it would be hard to tell the fan size, without measuring it.



Sure, you could go with internal fan hub as well. I don't mind which fan control method you choose, since in the end, your money and your PC.
Though, with fan hub, you need to be careful and pick the one which actually can support PWM (4-pin fans), since most of them support only DC control (3-pin fans).

E.g Phanteks fan hubs are good ones, since it supports both, 3-pin and 4-pin fans;
Version 1, specs: http://www.phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
Version 2, specs: https://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB_02.html



Regarding PSU, which one are you going to use? The "Itek BD700-700W" you listed above?



Thermaltake Commander F6 RGB costed me €49.40. So not that expensive, considering what it can do. (It can even support and control LED strips. But since i already have NZXT HUE+ and LED strips, i don't use that part of my fan controller.)
But Corsair ML Pro LED fans, for sure, are expensive. I payed €30.10 for one 140mm fan (and i have 3 per PC) and €25 per one 120mm fan (got 3x 120mm in my main build and one 120mm in my missuses PC.). With the price of one 140mm fan, you can buy 3-5 cheap fans.



None of us have endless budget, even me. Even i didn't build my PCs in one day, instead parts purchases were spread over ~2 years, buying few parts at a time.

If you're interested, here is the update log (with pictures) of my main PC, including when i bought which parts and how much i payed for every single part,
pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/bd9J7P

This Phanteks internal controller that you linked here looks pretty cool and it will be perfect for me. I think that I'll buy it.
Yes, I've finally take the Itek PSU.
It's a good piece, what a pity that it isn't sold on Amazon Us and neither Amazon UK (checked just now).
On YT, there is an Italian guy that make complete stress tests on the PSU, itek bd700 manage without big problems these tests.
Jesus, what a PC! You are the aesthetic pc emperor!
Well, what can I say to thank you? A little thanks isn't enough, really.
A little last question: how you judge my English? I watch and listen some English contents almost everyday, but I don't write in English very often. I would like to know your opinion.

 

[Aeacus]

Yes, I've finally take the Itek PSU.
It's a good piece, what a pity that it isn't sold on Amazon Us and neither Amazon UK (checked just now).
On YT, there is an Italian guy that make complete stress tests on the PSU, itek bd700 manage without big problems these tests.

So, you decide on a PSU based on what 1 person in Youtube told you?
If so, then you know little about PSUs and have little, if any, knowledge about which PSUs are good and which ones are not.

Time to burst the bubble....
Btw, i specialize on PC hardware and PSUs are the ones i know most about. Because PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

When it comes to PSUs, you need reasons to buy the PSU, not the reasons to reject the PSU. And most important factor, on knowing if PSU is good or not, is:
* review by a REPUTABLE reviewer.

Anyone can take olliscope and hook the PSU on it, make some tests and call the PSU good. That doesn't mean the PSU is actually good. What it takes, is reputable reviewer, e.g our own in-house PSU reviewer: Aris Mpitziopoulos who has written PSU reviews for Tom's Hardware and who is also founder of Cybenetics (https://www.cybenetics.com/), which puts PSUs through far more in-depth testing than ATX PSU standard specifies.
Or Jon Gerow (aka jonnyguru), who is the de facto guy when it comes to PSUs. jonnyguru has reviewed loads of PSUs in his years and he is currently working at Corsair as director of PSU engineering.
Other reputable PSU reviewers include, but are not limited to, are: Steve Burke (GamersNexus), Hardware Secrets, PC Perspective, [H]ard OCP, AnandTech, KitGuru, Tech Power Up.

So, when it comes to PSU, it must have:
* official specs site
* review by reputable reviewer (preferably several reviews by several reputable reviewers)

Good to haves are:
* cybenetics report
* long warranty
* high efficiency
* good standing in PSU Tier list (https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/)
* good PSU brand reputation
* good PSU OEM (the one who made the PSU)

So, lets take your PSU and see what it has, or has not. I'll also include my own PSU as a comparison.

You have Itek BD700 700W PSU. I have Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium PSU [SSR-650TD].

Official specs;
your PSU: https://www.itekevo.com/en/product/alimentatore-bd700/#tech
my PSU: https://seasonic.com/prime-titanium

Reputable review(s);
I could not find any reputable review of your PSU. That's a bad sign. And just because one guy in Youtube reviewed it, doesn't make the PSU good.
My PSU reviews;
By Aris: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html
By jonnyguru: https://web.archive.org/web/2017090.../modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=493
By KitGuru: https://www.kitguru.net/components/...onic-prime-650w-titanium-power-supply-review/
By AnandTech: https://www.anandtech.com/show/11252/the-seasonic-prime-titanium-power-supply-review

Cybenetics report;
None of Itek PSUs have been tested by Cybenetics.
My PSU, name listed as:"Prime Titanium 650W": https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database&params=2,0,12

Warranty;
I could not find your PSU warranty length from official specs. That's bad sign. Had to research it and found one publication, where it says your PSU has 36 month warranty (3 years), source: https://www.tomshw.it/hardware/itek-bd-evo-series-levoluzione-degli-alimentatori-desktop/
My PSU has 12 years of warranty. Listed in official specs. Also, 12 years of warranty is the longest warranty there is for PSU, and Seasonic PRIME series PSUs are only ones in entire world, who have 12 years of warranty.

Efficiency;
Your PSU is 80+ Bronze. 80+ Bronze PSUs were the norm ~15 years ago, while today, norm is 80+ Gold PSUs.
My PSU is 80+ Titanium. The highest efficiency there is.

PSU Tier list;
Your Itek BD isn't even listed in there. But other Itek PSUs Taurus GF and GF EVO are Tier C, link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/
My PSU is Tier A, in single-rail section.

Brand reputation;
Itek was founded in 1999 and it started to produce PC peripherals (keyboard, mice) and PC cases. 2003 brought gaming peripherals and cables. 2009 brought networking and soho products. 2012 brought bluetooth and wireless Android devices. 2016 brought gaming oriented peripherals. 2020 brought PSUs. So, a brand that produces plethora of different devices, without specializing in any of them.
Seasonic was founded in 1979 (47 years ago) and Seasonic started to manufacture electronic test equipment. In 1981, Seasonic stated producing PSUs for workstations and servers. 1995 Seasonic developed the ATX PSU, which now is the standard for all PSUs in PCs. 2003 was the year when Seasonic entered into consumer PSU market and started to make consumer PSUs. In 2009, Seasonic was the 1st in entire world, who made 80+ Gold efficiency PSU (X-series). Seasonic is a manufacturer that specializes in PSUs.

OEM reputation;
I could not find OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) of your PSU. Meaning, i have 0 clue who actually made your PSU. Itek is just a brand, taking PSU from PSU OEM and slapping their name onto it.
My PSU is made by Seasonic itself. Seasonic is one of the best (if not the best) PSU OEM in entire world. Other great PSU OEMs include: Super Flower and Flextronics. Seasonic has made PSUs for: Antec, Cooler Master, Corsair (e.g AX-series), EVGA, NZXT, Riotoro, Silverstone and XFX as well.


After reading all that (yes, it was a long read), which of the two PSUs you'd use? Your Itek brand PSU? Or my Seasonic brand/OEM PSU?
Though, do note that my Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium PSU, at the time of purchase (back in 2016) was is the best 650W PSU money could buy. And it still is one of the best PSUs out there. I payed €206.50 for my PSU.

I strongly suggest that you buy yourself a proper PSU, rather than this cheap, essentially no-name Itek brand PSU.
If you're willing to get proper, good quality PSU, i can give you several suggestions, that doesn't cost €200+ (like my PSU did) but which are still good PSUs to use in a PC, without the fear of PSU frying your entire PC (which i'd have, if i'd use Itek PSU).

Jesus, what a PC! You are the aesthetic pc emperor!

Yeah, enthusiast computing is my hobby. Well, not hobby anymore, more like a lifestyle.
Been around PCs for the last ~30 years.

Before i gave you a link for my main PC, but here are two more builds;
my missus'es PC (that i built for her), pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/RRvnTW
and my old PC, pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/2Y9J7P

Well, what can I say to thank you? A little thanks isn't enough, really.

If you think the topic is concluded, you can select Best Answer.
Guide here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-mark-posts-as-solved-award-best-answer.3803582/

A little last question: how you judge my English? I watch and listen some English contents almost everyday, but I don't write in English very often. I would like to know your opinion.

It's readable.

Sure, you have some sentence structure issues.
E.g you wrote: "I'm not very interesting in aesthetics, for me a computer that work properly is enough."
Better would be: "I'm not interested in aesthetics that much. For me, a computer that works properly, is enough."

Btw, English isn't my native language either. Estonian is (since i live in Estonia. Have been my entire life.). But because all my work is in English, now, at times, i know English better than i do know Estonian. (Sometimes, there are instances where i can not tell a word in Estonian, only in English.)

 

[simoflag99]

So, you decide on a PSU based on what 1 person in Youtube told you?
If so, then you know little about PSUs and have little, if any, knowledge about which PSUs are good and which ones are not.

Time to burst the bubble....
Btw, i specialize on PC hardware and PSUs are the ones i know most about. Because PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

When it comes to PSUs, you need reasons to buy the PSU, not the reasons to reject the PSU. And most important factor, on knowing if PSU is good or not, is:
* review by a REPUTABLE reviewer.

Anyone can take olliscope and hook the PSU on it, make some tests and call the PSU good. That doesn't mean the PSU is actually good. What it takes, is reputable reviewer, e.g our own in-house PSU reviewer: Aris Mpitziopoulos who has written PSU reviews for Tom's Hardware and who is also founder of Cybenetics (https://www.cybenetics.com/), which puts PSUs through far more in-depth testing than ATX PSU standard specifies.
Or Jon Gerow (aka jonnyguru), who is the de facto guy when it comes to PSUs. jonnyguru has reviewed loads of PSUs in his years and he is currently working at Corsair as director of PSU engineering.
Other reputable PSU reviewers include, but are not limited to, are: Steve Burke (GamersNexus), Hardware Secrets, PC Perspective, [H]ard OCP, AnandTech, KitGuru, Tech Power Up.

So, when it comes to PSU, it must have:
* official specs site
* review by reputable reviewer (preferably several reviews by several reputable reviewers)

Good to haves are:
* cybenetics report
* long warranty
* high efficiency
* good standing in PSU Tier list (https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/)
* good PSU brand reputation
* good PSU OEM (the one who made the PSU)

So, lets take your PSU and see what it has, or has not. I'll also include my own PSU as a comparison.

You have Itek BD700 700W PSU. I have Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium PSU [SSR-650TD].

Official specs;
your PSU: https://www.itekevo.com/en/product/alimentatore-bd700/#tech
my PSU: https://seasonic.com/prime-titanium

Reputable review(s);
I could not find any reputable review of your PSU. That's a bad sign. And just because one guy in Youtube reviewed it, doesn't make the PSU good.
My PSU reviews;
By Aris: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html
By jonnyguru: https://web.archive.org/web/2017090.../modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=493
By KitGuru: https://www.kitguru.net/components/...onic-prime-650w-titanium-power-supply-review/
By AnandTech: https://www.anandtech.com/show/11252/the-seasonic-prime-titanium-power-supply-review

Cybenetics report;
None of Itek PSUs have been tested by Cybenetics.
My PSU, name listed as:"Prime Titanium 650W": https://www.cybenetics.com/index.php?option=database&params=2,0,12

Warranty;
I could not find your PSU warranty length from official specs. That's bad sign. Had to research it and found one publication, where it says your PSU has 36 month warranty (3 years), source: https://www.tomshw.it/hardware/itek-bd-evo-series-levoluzione-degli-alimentatori-desktop/
My PSU has 12 years of warranty. Listed in official specs. Also, 12 years of warranty is the longest warranty there is for PSU, and Seasonic PRIME series PSUs are only ones in entire world, who have 12 years of warranty.

Efficiency;
Your PSU is 80+ Bronze. 80+ Bronze PSUs were the norm ~15 years ago, while today, norm is 80+ Gold PSUs.
My PSU is 80+ Titanium. The highest efficiency there is.

PSU Tier list;
Your Itek BD isn't even listed in there. But other Itek PSUs Taurus GF and GF EVO are Tier C, link: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/
My PSU is Tier A, in single-rail section.

Brand reputation;
Itek was founded in 1999 and it started to produce PC peripherals (keyboard, mice) and PC cases. 2003 brought gaming peripherals and cables. 2009 brought networking and soho products. 2012 brought bluetooth and wireless Android devices. 2016 brought gaming oriented peripherals. 2020 brought PSUs. So, a brand that produces plethora of different devices, without specializing in any of them.
Seasonic was founded in 1979 (47 years ago) and Seasonic started to manufacture electronic test equipment. In 1981, Seasonic stated producing PSUs for workstations and servers. 1995 Seasonic developed the ATX PSU, which now is the standard for all PSUs in PCs. 2003 was the year when Seasonic entered into consumer PSU market and started to make consumer PSUs. In 2009, Seasonic was the 1st in entire world, who made 80+ Gold efficiency PSU (X-series). Seasonic is a manufacturer that specializes in PSUs.

OEM reputation;
I could not find OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) of your PSU. Meaning, i have 0 clue who actually made your PSU. Itek is just a brand, taking PSU from PSU OEM and slapping their name onto it.
My PSU is made by Seasonic itself. Seasonic is one of the best (if not the best) PSU OEM in entire world. Other great PSU OEMs include: Super Flower and Flextronics. Seasonic has made PSUs for: Antec, Cooler Master, Corsair (e.g AX-series), EVGA, NZXT, Riotoro, Silverstone and XFX as well.


After reading all that (yes, it was a long read), which of the two PSUs you'd use? Your Itek brand PSU? Or my Seasonic brand/OEM PSU?
Though, do note that my Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium PSU, at the time of purchase (back in 2016) was is the best 650W PSU money could buy. And it still is one of the best PSUs out there. I payed €206.50 for my PSU.

I strongly suggest that you buy yourself a proper PSU, rather than this cheap, essentially no-name Itek brand PSU.
If you're willing to get proper, good quality PSU, i can give you several suggestions, that doesn't cost €200+ (like my PSU did) but which are still good PSUs to use in a PC, without the fear of PSU frying your entire PC (which i'd have, if i'd use Itek PSU).



Yeah, enthusiast computing is my hobby. Well, not hobby anymore, more like a lifestyle.
Been around PCs for the last ~30 years.

Before i gave you a link for my main PC, but here are two more builds;
my missus'es PC (that i built for her), pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/RRvnTW
and my old PC, pcpp: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/b/2Y9J7P



If you think the topic is concluded, you can select Best Answer.
Guide here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-mark-posts-as-solved-award-best-answer.3803582/


It's readable.

Sure, you have some sentence structure issues.
E.g you wrote: "I'm not very interesting in aesthetics, for me a computer that work properly is enough."
Better would be: "I'm not interested in aesthetics that much. For me, a computer that works properly, is enough."

Btw, English isn't my native language either. Estonian is (since i live in Estonia. Have been my entire life.). But because all my work is in English, now, at times, i know English better than i do know Estonian. (Sometimes, there are instances where i can not tell a word in Estonian, only in English.)

Damn, looks like I have a world of knowledge to learn yet. You literally open my eyes on my PSU, and thinking that I was pretty sure that I've made a good choice with this power supply unit make fell me pretty stupid.
At this point, if you are still so gentle, I would like to know your opinion about a good PSU that it doesn't cost more than 80/90 euros (if in this range I can find a middle/semi good quality range).
My PSU cost more or less 75 euros, I wouldn't spend far more by this.

After all this, how can I not give you the best answer badge?

 

[Aeacus]

At this point, if you are still so gentle, I would like to know your opinion about a good PSU that it doesn't cost more than 80/90 euros (if in this range I can find a middle/semi good quality range).
My PSU cost more or less 75 euros, I wouldn't spend far more by this.

Here, i suggest getting Seasonic Focus GX-550,
specs: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx
amazon: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WQYM74W

Why 550W unit and not 700W unit?
Simple, your GPU is 120W, your CPU is 90W, add the rest of the system to it at ~100W and your PC consumes ~310W, at max load. Making 550W PSU enough.
Even when you upgrade your CPU to E5-2667 v4, which is 131W, it only adds ~40W to the calculation, whereby max would be ~350W.

Few words about Seasonic Focus;
While Seasonic PRIME is the best offered by Seasonic, Seasonic Focus is small step down from PRIME lineup. It still is very good PSU with great reliability. It comes with 10 years of warranty. And it is also fully-modular, for the ease of installation.
Even i use Seasonic Focus series PSU, PX-550, which powers my old, AMD build.
Seasonic Focus is in Tier A in the PSU Tier list. And it also has several reviews + Cybenetics report about it.

After all this, how can I not give you the best answer badge?

I'll contact a mod and see what can be done.

 

[Colif]

the forum software was updated last week, and there is currently a problem in that all the threads are being created as discussions. That might have been why you couldn't award it, but you should be able to now, as I see it is showing the tick in right hand column now... if you still can't click it, I can select it for you.

 

[simoflag99]

Here, i suggest getting Seasonic Focus GX-550,
specs: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx
amazon: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WQYM74W

Why 550W unit and not 700W unit?
Simple, your GPU is 120W, your CPU is 90W, add the rest of the system to it at ~100W and your PC consumes ~310W, at max load. Making 550W PSU enough.
Even when you upgrade your CPU to E5-2667 v4, which is 131W, it only adds ~40W to the calculation, whereby max would be ~350W.

Few words about Seasonic Focus;
While Seasonic PRIME is the best offered by Seasonic, Seasonic Focus is small step down from PRIME lineup. It still is very good PSU with great reliability. It comes with 10 years of warranty. And it is also fully-modular, for the ease of installation.
Even i use Seasonic Focus series PSU, PX-550, which powers my old, AMD build.
Seasonic Focus is in Tier A in the PSU Tier list. And it also has several reviews + Cybenetics report about it.



I'll contact a mod and see what can be done.

I follow your advice and few hours ago I've bought the seasonic focus gx-550W, after started the return process. i hope that it can provide the right amount of power also to the eventual fan hub.

Thanks a lot for your patience Aeacus, really.

 

[simoflag99]

the forum software was updated last week, and there is currently a problem in that all the threads are being created as discussions. That might have been why you couldn't award it, but you should be able to now, as I see it is showing the tick in right hand column now... if you still can't click it, I can select it for you.

Actually I'm writing from Android, I don't see this right column. If you could set the best answer for me, I'll appreciate! Thanks!

 

[simoflag99]

Here, i suggest getting Seasonic Focus GX-550,
specs: https://seasonic.com/focus-gx
amazon: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07WQYM74W

Why 550W unit and not 700W unit?
Simple, your GPU is 120W, your CPU is 90W, add the rest of the system to it at ~100W and your PC consumes ~310W, at max load. Making 550W PSU enough.
Even when you upgrade your CPU to E5-2667 v4, which is 131W, it only adds ~40W to the calculation, whereby max would be ~350W.

Few words about Seasonic Focus;
While Seasonic PRIME is the best offered by Seasonic, Seasonic Focus is small step down from PRIME lineup. It still is very good PSU with great reliability. It comes with 10 years of warranty. And it is also fully-modular, for the ease of installation.
Even i use Seasonic Focus series PSU, PX-550, which powers my old, AMD build.
Seasonic Focus is in Tier A in the PSU Tier list. And it also has several reviews + Cybenetics report about it.



I'll contact a mod and see what can be done.

Before buying that on Amazon, I make a research on 2nd hand website and I've found a seasonic focus gx-650 W. I've asked more informarmation about that because it would be a good offer (80 euros) and i also would take that face to face, since the vendor live not far away from me.
What do you advice me? Focus gx550 on Amazon at 91 euros or focus gx650 used for 80 euros?

 

[Colif]

I marked this earlier, I wonder why its not marked now.

BTW, the ticks are at bottom of each post on Android. I wish I had noticed when I looked after you said you couldn't see it.

 

[Aeacus]

What do you advice me? Focus gx550 on Amazon at 91 euros or focus gx650 used for 80 euros?

Never buy used PSU, since there's 0 telling what kind of abuse it has seen and if it even works according to ATX PSU standard (by providing correct, in-spec voltages).

E.g if i'd have a choice between used Seasonic PRIME TX-650 (80+ Titanium) and brand new Seasonic S12II-520 (80+ Bronze), i'd go with S12II-520. Sure, S12II-520 is very old (borderline ancient) platform, released back in 2009 and is group-regulated PSU, not the DC-DC as current day PSUs are. It is also fully-wired, making installation of it tedious. But S12II-520 was the best group-regulated PSU ever made and is tried, tested and proven to be very reliable PSU.
(In fact, my old AMD build was powered by S12II-520 PSU for years, and it even powered my current build for a while, until i bought my Seasonic PRIME PSU. Afterwhich, S12II-520 returned to my old AMD build. Though, i did retire my trusty workhorse and bought Seasonic Focus PX-550 to replace it.)

Also, PSU warranty, usually, won't transfer. Though, Seasonic does offer transferable warranty, given that you provide the original invoice when the PSU was bought as brand new.

So, don't cheap out on €11 by getting used PSU. Sure, it has 100W more max capacity, but you don't need the extra 100W for your build.

I marked this earlier, I wonder why its not marked now.

Ghost in the machine? 👻