Choosing motherboard to match CPU

[SHOCK77777]

I currently have an out of warranty iBuyPower Gaming Desktop that was built back in 2012, that I purchased through the military/base exchange. Unfortunately, I disconnected my keyboard, modem, router, monitor, mouse and headset from the computer so I could clean. I did NOT unplug or power off the computer system itself. However when I finished and started hooking everything back up, I was having a hard time reaching the USB port the keyboard was going into and tilted the PC case forward and downwards a few inches and as I connected the keyboard the PC shut down. I tried to restart it and it would not power back on. I made absolutely sure that I had not accidently turned off the power supply. I had not. To be sure I tried to restart it with the switch in each position, in case I was wrong. No go.

I proceeded to disconnect the other things I had connected one by one and try the power button again, again no success.
I then took the entire unit to the kitchen table, so I would have plenty of room to work and check things out, where I opened up the case to have a look.

Step 1: I figured it was the power supply and started with checking the power supply, which when disconnected from the computer, did/does power on. (Thought? Could it still be the power supply? Yes it could.)

Step 2: I got out my spare power supply and attached both the 24 pin and 8 pin power cables to the motherboard. No response. (Thought? Could it be the power button? Yes it could.)

Step 3: I removed the power button connector and tried to bridge the pins to start the PC, no success. (Not with either one of the power supplies attached correctly to the 24 pin and 8 pin slots on the motherboard. (Thought? Could it be the graphics card? Yes, it could.)

Step 4: I removed the graphics card and still no post. (Thought? Could it be the ram? Yes it could be.)

Step 5: I removed all 8 of the ram sticks. No post. (Thought? Could the motherboard want one stick of ram to start? It could.)

Step 6: I installed one stick of ram, first in slot 1, no post. Then slot 2, no post. Then slot 3, no post. Then slot 4, no post. Then slot 6, no post. Then slot 7, no post. Then slot 8, no post. (Thought? Could this ram stick be bad and not work in any channel? Yes.)

Steps 7 through 13: Checking one ram stick after another, into each channel, results, no post ever.

NOTE: Each time, no matter what I was checking, I not only would try to use the power switch on the front of the case, but then would remove the power switch cable from the MOB, and try to jumpstart it by bridging the posts. And each step done with each power supply do double check everything. However, still no post.

At this point I started to figure it probably was the motherboard or CPU and I decided to contact iBuyPower by email and explain all of the above. I told them I was aware my system was out of warranty but wondered if they rebuild/repair motherboards and if possible the cost if I shipped the system to them to have it done.

Their response was:

1. Your purchase date was 09/27/2012. You have no more warranty (NO JOKE, I already knew that and started out in my email to them saying I know it is out of warranty.) Due to the age of the computer some of the parts are obsolete. Meaning (As if I needed them to explain.) that there’s no more support for the Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard it would be hard to find a replacement.
2. You will have to update to a newer Motherboard, CPU and Memory in addition to the cost for an Out of Warranty Repair which is $100 for Labor, $75 Return Shipping Fee plus the costs of any parts replaced.
3. It might be more cost effective to get a new computer instead. Ibuypower Tech Support.

I then replied to them:

Is it possible to get a complete spec sheet on my build, so I can try to fina a replacement motherboard that will use all of the components I already have?

They responded:

Here's what I found online: This is what you currently have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gigabyte-GA-X79-UP4-LGA-2011-Motherboard-Intel-X79-BRAND-NEW-/262923772298?hash=item3d377a618a:g😛EAAOSwuLZY5AbQ

What you should look for is a X79 Chipset Motherboard. You can search on www.ebay.com there are new, used and refurbished ones. Ibuypower Tech Support.

Okay, they clearly do not read well, I asked for a spec sheet and I get told what motherboard I have. I did take the time though to check out what was available on eBay, but after doing so I also realized that they charge more than half of what the board originally cost because they can get away with it because they are not available anymore. And of course if I buy one, even though it claims to be new, I’m not going to get any warranty with it and would then be out $400/$500.

I currently have:

1. Gigabyte GA X79 UP4 Motherboard

2. i7 3820 CPU

3. No brand/heatsink which has a radiator and fan attached

4. (8) 2GB DDR3 1600 (Kingston Hyper X Genesis ) ram sticks

5. Zotac GTX660 Video Graphics Card

6. CorsairCX750 Power Supply (Also a Rocketfish 700 Watt available.)

7. 180GB SSD with my OS

8. 500GB Samsung SSD for storage

9. LG Blu/Ray Reader, DVD+R/±RW Burner Combo Drive

10. Non brand Optical Drive 24x Dual Format/Double Layer DVD ±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive

1. I do understand the motherboard is no longer being made and would prefer not to buy one that no longer has a manufacturer warranty even if it is a new one from ebay or any other place and not have a warranty on it.

2. However I would like to know if there is any motherboard out there that is brand new, whatever brand that does come WITH A WARRANTY (3 to 5 years preferably), that will support the CPU that I do have, since that is probably the most expensive component.

3. I am also aware even if I can still use the CPU, that most motherboards seem to be using DDR4 ram and I would have to buy new ram.

4. However, I am open to suggestions and comments from those who are more knowledgeable than I am. That being said, I look forward to seeing what others have to say. Thanks in advance.

“Sandra”

 

[Subressor]

How the heck did you break a motherboard?

So with motherboard shopping; first you have to start with the 'socket' of your desired CPU.

With your i7 3820, your socket is a 'FCLGA2011':
http://ark.intel.com/products/63698/Intel-Core-i7-3820-Processor-10M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz

From there, normally the best thing is just to google, amazon or newegg the motherboards that support that socket type:

Unfortunately because that socket is a bit unique, make sure you do some research first:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/629768-is-lga-2011-3-the-same-as-fclga2011/

You're basically looking for a LGA 2011 socket, without the -3.

To ensure you're getting a motherboard that's still manufacturer supported, I suggest going to some manufactures websites directly and finding your board directly from there. Then you know it'll still be supported:

E.G. if you wanted a MSI motherboard, you'll find this is the only one they seem to still be producing for 2011 sockets
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X79A-GD45-Plus.html#hero-specification

Just perform a final check that any board you choose supports your socket. In the above case, it does:
http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-MSI/X79A-GD45_Plus.html

Boom. Away you go. Your selection is very limited, but now you can compare all the different boards available to you and make your consumer empowered decision.

Direct answer to questions:
1) Why? They're pretty hard to break, and as long as you're not going super premium they're not that expensive.
2) There are, see above. I'd try MSI, ASRock, Gigabye first, they're the big motherboard players. Normal warrantys in the UK are 2 years minimum. Probably the same in the US. If you pay for it by credit card then you can have a second warranty depending on your protection level.
3) Well of course. It's our job as nerds to know what we want and that it works. Imagine being held responsible for compatibility questions? If you want cheap prices, you need to know what you want.
4) Your welcome

 

[SHOCK77777]

You asked how the heck did I break the motherboard. Well, my only thought is even though I've done this a zillion times previously without incident that when I plugged in the keyboard into the usb socket on the I/O board on the back of the PC's MOB that it shorted out the motherboard. I mean really, I don't get it, I just have tried everything I thought was humanly possible to troubleshoot the problem and I've got nothing. I even took the MOB out of the case 100% and removed everything connected and tried just plugging in the power supply only (tried the spare as well, and yes both the 24 pin and 8 pin connectors.) I forgot to add to my list I had also removed the CMOS battery, tested it, still put a newly tested one back in case it was even a chance it would make a difference and reset the BIOS on the MOB. Again no post. Just dumb luck I guess.

However, I thank you for your information and hopefully soon can get up and running again.